20 Best 35Mm Camera For Beginners (2022 Updated)

As reusable cameras go, this is definitely a step or two up from disposables and is good for getting started. The mechanism, flash and lens are nothing to write home about. But that’s not what you’re paying for here.

It’s fun and easy and takes out lots of the technical barriers. Just make sure you load the film with tension when advancing it and change the batteries regularly!.

Real deal! This camera just shouting about being different, edgy and definitely creative. Only for brave artists and street photographers!

Bought the camera as a beginner to try out shooting with film! So easy to use and comes with fully detailed instructions – would highly recommend for anyone starting out with film photography!!

im really disappointed with how my photos turned out. maybe i just got a bad set of cameras? i thought it would be nice to bring a couple disposable cameras to the hospital to take pictures while we were there for the birth of my first baby and the first couple days home of him meeting our family.

we used the entirety of film from one camera and about half of the second. i took it to walmart to have it developed. it only produced about 7 photos from the first and 2 from the second. all of them except one were almost solid black or very blurry.

there was a lot of important memories i wanted to save on there. of course my husband and i took pictures on our phones, but im still pretty upset with how the pictures on the camera turned out. only one picture of all of them was salvageable.

thankfully, the employee let me have it for free. i know it wasnt their fault and these things happen, but what an unfortunate time for it to happen.

I love having my Fuji camera with me to save important memories. Obviously, you can do that with your phone, however, there is something special about capturing a moment on film and having a physical copy once you get that film developed.

Fuji’s cameras produce great quality photos and I could not be happier with my results.

Well, looks like i’m done purchasing these. These doubled in price and it’s absolutely ridiculous considering we need to pay to get the photos back also. Now I really can’t justify paying for these anymore.

Sticking to the phone now, how sad!.

The notorious “shutter squeak” issue makes these an objectionable buy. They aren’t supposed to “squeak”, it’s not normal. the point is this. It’s actually not “shutter” squeak at all and rather the bearing for the mirror lever.

The grease applied dried out rapidly and causes this “squeak”. Here’s the danger involved; Some people re-lubed them. but “by who?” For a long time some people were drilling holes in the shadow box to access and lube the “squeak” source? Removing a screw from the mount plate at 10 o’clock, and dripping oil through.

oil? grease, WD40, good luck figuring what household remedies were applied. 3-in-one? There’s both “old school” fixes and quick new fix ways, probably applied by camera shops for years. at a hefty cost to a consumer? Point is, the model has a major defect, the dry bearing slows the mirror which will at times, interfere with exposures and secondly, that sound is not unique or Canon like.

it’s a the sound of a defect in action.

The venerable Canon AE-1Program is a successor to its previous family mate the AE-1. Having owned over the years the AE-1P as well as its older AE-1 along with many Canon manual focus and EOS based film and digital SLR’s the AE-1P is a very nice and easy to learn and use 35mm film SLR.

I owned an AE-1P bought brand new back in the mid 80’s, used it for hobby work and it was in my kit bag as a back up camera for a long while as I shot professionally with film before moving to digital in the early 2000’s.

I mistakenly sold off all my then film gear. But have begun attaining some film gear again and Canon is a natural fit for me being a long time user of their gear. The AE-1P offers the user full program mode, aperture priority, shutter priority modes as well as full manual mode.

It offers a bright, large viewfinder with the standard split centre screen focusing aid. The user can snap focus manually quickly with the AE-1P. It does not offer auto focus, Canon FD lens based cameras were manual focus.

It’s really not a chore to do so and it gives the user a mind to be more forthright and careful in composition, exposure and shooting with film. The camera is very well built, not too large and will fit both larger hands and smaller hands nicely, especially with the finger grip.

It is manual frame advance and easy to do so. Canon does offer optional power winder and faster motor drive for those who feel a need to have such. The AE-1P offers enough features to help shooters get good images.

It lacks a few that other models such as A-1, F-1n and T-90 have but nothing that prevents a user from getting great photos. One easy feature is instead of an exposure compensation dial the AE-1P has a backlight compensation button that will open the chosen F.

stop by 1 F. stop if depressed when shooting. The camera offers F. stop info in red LED readouts in viewfinder to aid in getting the exposure a user wants. This is an easy camera to learn photography on, can be used in any way a user may want.

Today the AE-1P goes for great value on the used market. Recommended by me for Canon FD lens based manual focus camera shooters. Not too big, nor too small, not too heavy, nor too light, easy to work and a nice 35mm film SLR of a great bygone film era.

The AE-1 is an attractive, well built camera. It’s just oozing with classic vintageness with one eye on the enthusiastic enthusiasts and one eye on the pro photographer with another eye for just the enthusiastic amateur professional.

Built in 1976 and still in use today, it’s easy to see how well constructed they are. Mine has taken a beating over the years and is still perfectly on song. Another has a few dents, bruises and spots on the view finder, but it still performs very well.

Many have issues with light seals breaking down, but that is just a general problem with any SLR of it’s age and is pretty easy to replace. As for performance, this camera is dripping with Shutter Priority goodness.

The shutter speed ranges from 1/1000th of a second down to 2 seconds. There is also a Bulb mode and the shutter release button conveniently features a cable release socket for long exposure shooting.

There is also an exposure preview button and one for depth of field too. There is a light meter, and i have been lucky here because mine still work, but i have heard that it is a common problem that cameras this old do have failing light meters.

But if you know what you are doing (and have a separate hand held meter) then this should not be too bigger an issue. Of course, if you want even more control over you images, then there is an AE-1 Program model too.

Lenses are an FD mount, so any EOS lenses will not fit. However, there are plenty of decent FD lenses to be found on several auction sites at a decent price. overall, this is an excellent, well built, sturdy camera that even after 40 years performs very well and is a must for anyone delving into the film photography world.

I simply can’t recommend it enough. Happy shooting.

The K1000 is undoubtedly an iconic camera, and has gained a huge reputation as THE camera for students of photography to learn on. However, having had a few of these through my hands it is clear that many are now suffering the ravages of time.

So, please choose carefully and make sure you buy a good one! Strangely enough, I recall seeing an Amateur Photographer test report of the K1000 from the early 1980s which highlighted the fact that neither the shutter nor the meter were particularly accurate.

and that’s a camera straight out of the factory! So perhaps it’s not entirely surprising to learn that K1000s approaching 35-40 years old also suffer with inaccurate meters and shutters, except that these inaccuracies are now more marked.

This is perhaps not so surprising when you learn that the K1000 is a fully mechanical camera. A battery is only needed to power the meter and the shutter will operate at ALL speeds without the aid of a battery.

In other words, the full range of speeds from 1 to 1/1000th second are achieved by means of springs, cogs and bearings. The problem is that many of these cameras have sat idle for many years, and springs lose their tension whilst lubricants gradually dry out and become sticky.

One common problem is that when these cameras get ‘put away’their owners leave the battery in, probably intending to use the camera in a few weeks time. However, after a few years these button cells start to leak corrosive acid into the battery chamber.

This corrodes the contact with the wire to the meter, which often renders the meter inoperable. Thankfully this is quite an easy repair. but is fiddly and requires a very steady hand and good soldering technique.

Even meters that are ‘working’ can often become inaccurate. Thankfully most are usually accurate to within half a stop. However, once the meter starts to ‘die’ it will become grossly inaccurate, and this inaccuracy will not be linear across the full range of light levels.

I have seen really bad ones where the meter is out by 3 stops in very bright conditions, reducing to only 1 stop in dim light. However, with light meter apps on smart phones this is not so critical, as it is easy enough to do a quick check.

What can be more problematic are inaccurate shutter speeds. It is possible to check shutter speeds without specialist equipment and to gain an approximate idea as to whether the shutter is accurate. However, this needs a good understanding of how a focal plane shutter works along with a bit of experience.

In an attempt to quantify the accuracy of shutter speeds I recently acquired a shutter speed tester (Phochron XA) and this has been an eye opener! I have now tested the shutters of around a dozen K1000s (and KMs) and perhaps only 1 or 2 could be said to be fully reliable at all shutter speeds.

It is impossible to generalise, although the majority of problems occur at the faster speeds. Not only can speeds become very inaccurate, but the exposure can vary significantly across the frame. To illustrate, I have found at least one camera where the 1/1000th speed actually timed at around 1/500th, and several others where the 1/1000th speed timed at well over 1/2000th.

Not only that, but there were several where the shutter failed to open fully at 1/1000th (a problem known as tapering). Of course, print film has a wide exposure latitude and hopefully the majority of meter and shutter inaccuracies won’t be evident on the negative.

And don’t forget, that a competent service will restore a shutter to full accuracy. although you will need to factor in an additional 60-70 for a service. The other certainty is that if the light seals and mirror foam haven’t been replaced they will definitely need doing now.

The original foam seals tend to degrade over time and decompose to a sticky black gunge. So, my message to all potential purchasers is as follows. If you are buying via an auction where there is very little information, then don’t pay too much as the chances are you will have one or more of the above problems.

The problem is you may not realise this until you get your first roll of film developed. It would therefore be safer to buy from someone who has replaced the light seals (with the correct materials), tested the meter and shutter operation and given you an honest assessment of how well these functions are working.

A seller who does all of this, and describes every other aspect of the camera operation is truly worth buying from.

There is no doubt that the pentax K1000, is deservedly revered by students and beginners alike for it’s simplicity, build quality, and reliability. Unfortunately, it appears to have been a victim of it’s own success, in terms of reputation, desirability, and the fact that good examples now command pretty steep prices.

For beginners or students on a tight budget however, there are excellent alternatives. While I have a beautiful K1000 SE in my collection, I also have four excellent alternatives which I can thoroughly recommend which are just as reliable, well made, and simple to use.

1. Minolta Srt 101 2. Canon FTB 3. Chinon Cs 4. Practica MTL3. All these models like the K1000, are completely mechanical and can operate without a battery even if the meter isn’t working. Also, they can be purchased for 30 or less in excellent condition often just needing the seals replacing.

You are very unlikely to find a good or even decent K1000 for less than 50 body only so as I say consider one of these models seriously as an alternative. I guarantee you will not be disappointed.

This is my first 35mm film camera, and was really happy I bought it. Hell it was only $99 with the lens. Mine was in excellent condition and well packaged. I got the model with the microprism (not the split-screen).

Note you need to put your eye a few millimeters back. Loading the film is straightforward, similar to other 35mm camera such as Nikon F3 but not like Leicas. Just remember to press the button under the camera before rewinding the film.

Just wish the camera had a better grip to place my fingers. It will accept an universal screw-in type cable release. The 50mm f/2 is good enough for me since I mostly do my photography at small apertures (i.

e. large f/stop number). The K1000, as its name implies, has a maximum shutter speed of 1/1000 s. As far as I can tell all shutter speeds are accurate on mine. I do appreciate that this is a fully mechanical manual camera.

It requires no battery to shoot. The single SR44 (don’t buy LR44, silver oxide is much better than alkaline) only powers the light meter, an analog one that uses a needle, which is even better than the one on the Nikon F3 for instance, because the needle tells you by how many stops you are under/over exposing it (it doesn’t tell you that directly but it’s very obvious) and it’s easy to see that you’re coming closeto the appropriate exposure.

The camera is very simple, it doesn’t have a self-timer, mirror lock up, depth of field preview and any auto mode. It’s a really great tool to get back to the basics (which doesn’t mean you’ll get basic pictures at all, bien au contraire !) The size is just right.

I wouldn’t recommend it, but it just barely fits in the pocket of my jacket. Too bad the lens doesn’t come with a hood, though you can attach one. Also know that the lens will extend when focusing. The viewfinder doesn’t have 1.

00 magnification, but is it really a problem? The flash sync speed is 1/60 of a second, not really usable for fill in flash but you’ll appreciate the hot shoe (above the viewfinder, as usual) and cold shoe (facing the front of the camera, the round thingy on the bottom right of the lens).

You can make multiple exposures using the following trick: Take your first shot. Then tighten the rewind (crank it a bit) then hold it with your left thumb, press and hold button under the camera while operating the film advance (although it won’t advance the film but only cock the shutter).

Take the second picture. Proceed as usual to move on to the next frame. Still I would waste a frame to make sure it won’t overlap the last picture. This happened to me, it’s not a fool proof. A dedicated function is much safer.

I’m guessing the problem is tightening the film too much, in fact I should try not tightening it at all, it shouldn’t make that much of a difference, if any. This camera is fantastic, and even more for its price.

It seems rock solid, with a metal construction. I’d say if you want to try film, then you’re really going to have a lot of fun, and will really enjoy the fact that this camera is so simple. Digital cameras have gone crazy in the recent years, there are just too many menus and options.

The build quality of this camera is ten out of ten. The autofocus performs better it seems than my Nikon Df and D750. The frames per second are almost as fast as my F5–it’ll rip through a roll of film in a scary way.

This camera feels incredible in the hand. It feels like a rubber covered block of metal–but isn’t too heavy! I own many Nikons: F, F2, F3, F4, F5, Df, D750 and 35Ti, and this one even beats out my Df as the favorite.

I only wish that it had the removable viewfinder like the other Nikon F cameras. Battery life is excellent; it takes the little C123 batteries that are pretty easy to find now. Do not hesitate to buy this camera.

The interchangeable focus screens for this camera are plastic and a little clumsy to change out. I think the design is such that you’re supposed to do it once and forget about it–not like the other F cameras with ground glass screens.

I installed the “L” screen with the 45 degree split in the middle, which makes it very easy to manually focus.

My dreams have come true and I’m a Nikon F6 owner right now. The camera was on roll 24 when I got it, so it was pretty new. I like it a lot and I want to use it in rest of my life (as long as they produce 35mm film) along to my digital bodies, I am litterally in love with my camera.

If you are a serious 35mm film shooter I definetelly recommend this camera, it is absolutelly the best 35mm film camera ever produced. And for the ergonomics, it is surprising to notice that it is ergonomically superior to my Nikon D800E.

The button layout is so similiar to contemprary Nikon cameras, also because of Nikons’ obsession on heritage it was a great surprise when I browse through the “custom setup” menus, although it had missing items the general layout was same with all of my current pro Nikon bodies.

All my lenses are working normally with it even the ones with VR. The viewfinder is gorgeous, it is bright and clear. The weight of the body, even when used with the battery grip, feels balanced with my holly trinity lenses.

I can not stress it enough that it is an absolute joy both to own and to use my F6. I love it!.

This isn’t intended to be a technical review – there’s plenty of info out there already. Rather, this is a summary of my feelings after having put several rolls through it – various color slide, black and white and color neg.

Ergonomically it’s beautiful to use – you don’t spend much time in menus (although there are over 40 settings there), the buttons are big, and the controls easy to find and use. The viewfinder is very nice – some folks complain about the eyepoint.

I have no issues with it and it is a way better eyepoint than my FM3A. It feels and responds like you would expect a professional camera to feel and respond. I like how this camera feels in my hands and as a tactile object it really does deliver in spades.

The build quality is at least equal to the D3S. Value-wise it rates well – the same money won’t get even get you into the Nikon full-frame digital world (incidentally I scan my negs on a Nikon 5000 ED and each frame comes out at 20 megapixels).

What don’t I like? Not much. I wish it had a self-timer with mirror lock-up. Technically it does have this, but the delay is 30 seconds. I think it should have been 10 seconds or at least have the option for 10 seconds.

The only other comment – comment, not complaint this time – is that the F6 is still a bit big and heavy for my taste. But that’s simply because I also use my FM3A (600g) which is a hell of a lot more fun to carry around (and produces image quality which I cannot distinguish from the F6, though the FM3A is nowhere near as flexible).

So why did I buy the F6? I shoot both film and digital SLRs. I like digital, but I love film for the type of photography I do (scenic and travel photography and portraits mostly). That’s the first reason.

Second, I now have a film camera compatible with almost all Nikon glass and flash units and which is able to utilize all of their features. Thirdly, as I have previously indicated, it is a beautifully crafted and refined piece of gear.

Finally, it is chock-full of features – except, as you now know, for a 10-second mirror-lock up self timer function :-(. I particularly like having the different metering options if I’m shooting color slide film.

I use Nikon AI and AI-S glass in addition to auto focus lenses – moreso in fact. Thanks to the Nikon split-image focusing screen I purchased separately, these lenses are as easy to use on the F6 as they are on a manual camera.

You might be aware that the F6 allows you to program up to 10 manual lenses into its database to enable you to use matrix metering (though, of course, not 3D matrix metering). Despite its 1kg weight, my F6 still feels relatively potable with a 200g 20mm f4 AI or 50mm f1.

8 AIS strapped to the front. Although things get a little heavier with the 35mm f1. 4 AIS or the 105mm f2. 5 AIS, the balance improves (and the result is still a lot lighter and smaller than with professional G-type lenses attached).

I don’t use a vertical grip because I like the smaller configuration. This means I miss out on having the electrical capacity for extended shooting (the F6 is power-hungry) and also that my burst rate is 5.

5 fps whereas with the grip it is 8fps (no big deal to me). Always carry a spare set of two CR123As if you don’t use the grip. One battery set will get me comfortably through 20 rolls, probably more.

Nor do I have the MV-1 reader. The F6 stores and retains shooting info for about 35 rolls. I access this through the menu and write it up.

A great backup camera as it only requires batteries for the light meter so if you know the camera well you will never miss a shot due to dead or low batteries. The build quality is good for the price but the light meter leaves quite a bit to be desired.

It does not show the level of over or under exposure like other cameras. Instead of showing that you are 1/2 stop over or under exposed it just shows a plus for over exposure or a minus for under exposure.

It would be nice to know the level of over or under exposure. The film advance system could be a bit better as it will still let one fire the shutter if the film advance lever is only actuated part way.

If this is done then by simply once not advancing the film fully will result in pictures that are shot between film frames thus ruining the film roll after the partial film advance. Lens compatibility is wonderful and the focusing prism is easy to use as long as there is adequate light and there is enough available zoom in the lense you are using when taking long shots such as a landscape with the focus point toward the most distant point in the landscape.

In many cases there is not enough light to clearly see the shot when using the depth of field preview button. Not a problem when shooting outside in good daylight but is problematic when shooting in doors with normal ambient light inside and shooting at a slow aperature value.

The flash shoe mount works well with nikon flashes but caution must be used as there is no fill flash capabilities etc so care must be taken when using an external flash. All in all a great camera for the money but it gets an average rating since there are many other cameras on the used market in the same price range with more features and better exposure control.

For a novice learning photography, it meets all I needs, I love it very much and it will always accompany me even if I have a better camera. by the way very good service, thanks.

This camera Is probably close to 30 years old. They were a compact high quality manual camera that does not need a battery except to run the light meter. This model is full of high quality machined parts and is practically bulletproof.

A lot of pros who already owned f3 highpoint pro camera bought these for backup and informal shooting. The camera uses Nikon auto indexing lens and earlier. Shutter speed tops at 1/1000 and flash guide number is 1/125.

They are priced reasonably now. I am tickled to have one just to collect if not to use. I wish that i could still buy slide film for this camera. If you have lots of money buy a Nikon Fm2 which has 1/4000 top speed and later models have an aluminum shutter instead of a titanium shutter that the first ones had.

Both are good but go for the aluminum one if possible. If you ever wanted a high quality Nikon buy one of these while you can! Larry.

I jumped for this little camera for two reasons: primarily, I wanted to have a fun, no-frills film camera I could use to play around with expired and lomo film, as a cheap alternative to a Holga (although the camera costs a bit more, 72 frames on a 35mm is a lot cheaper than 12 on a 120).

And a second reason was that I might want to invite an occasional friend to come along on a photo walk put on by the local film photography group, and this is a great way not to have to worry about camera settings.

It’s even smaller than it looks, and it weighs almost nothing. It definitely has a plastic craptastic feel to it, and yet the film door makes a satisfying click sound when you close it (no need to tape it shut like some Holgas), and the film advance wheel stops with a corresponding clack.

The shutter likewise feels as solid as an all-plastic camera could afford. There are some weird quirks, however. The film door opens from the wrong side (fortunately there’s a sliding latch to remind you where it opens), and you load the film on the right with the spindle on the left.

The rewind knob doesn’t look like it wants to be pulled out at first, but it does. Then it kind of hangs there while you load the film, and you have to give it an extra push to make it flush with the bottom of the camera once the film is loaded.

Again, it all feels really sketch, and yet it works just fine. One of my initial problems was trying to figure out how far to wind the film to get to the first frame. I had not noticed the tiny frame counter window on top until I was about 4 shots in, so those first few probably won’t turn out.

And although you can definitely make out a counter in the window (which acts as a tiny plastic magnifying glass), the 72-shot capacity and the tiny counter wheel only leave enough room to count by 4s, which means that if you want to create diptychs it’s fairly impossible to consistently know which half of the full frame you’re shooting.

I haven’t yet completed shooting my first roll (I mean, 72 frames, it takes a while, you know), so I don’t know how they’ll turn out, but I have high hopes: a few Google searches revealed that the (plastic) lens has an aperture of f/9.

6, and the shutter speed is fixed at 1/100s, so it’s easy to use Sunny 16 to determine the right exposure. (If you load 100 ISO film, you’ll get decent exposure with light cloud cover or brighter, assuming your film has a bit of exposure latitude).

In my case, I loaded some Ilford HP5 Plus (400 ISO), which meant the overcast weather I encountered on my first day wouldn’t pose a problem. Once I get the roll developed I’ll revisit this review and post a few pictures.

Overall I’m pretty happy with this camera. It’s never going to replace a real film camera (like my Pentax Spotmatic F, or even my zone-focus Olympus Trip 35), but it’s a nice thing to slip in your back pocket for taking pictures on a walk, or to try out some experimental film.

However, I wouldn’t load Portra 400 in it unless you just like to throw money away.

Love this camera. If you expect medium frame detail it’s probably going to leave you wanting more. It’s a simple point and shoot. F9. 5 @ 1/100th does what you need it to. The coolest part is you get double the exposures of any roll you load up.

Easy to toss into a backpack or a pocket. Simple enough to hand to anyone. I will say when you’re shooting make sure you’re pressing the shutter button slowly to reduce any kind of shake. It’s a light camera (made of plastic) but it’s something that won’t break the bank and will capture some fun moments.

The F3 is a perhaps THE CLASSIC PRO FILM CAMERA for 35mm film, and it enables the use of a great many Nikon F mount lenses – both new and old – so it’s a great camera to go for if you’re looking to rediscover the pleasures of shooting film.

This was Nikon’s flagship professional film camera for many years and it continued to be made even after its ‘more modern’ AF Nikon F4 was launched such was its popularity. I originally bought a brand new one in 2000, but I sold it several years later, which I regretted, but recently bought an almost ‘new’ condition ‘pre-owned’ example of one from Japan.

The camera was immaculate and seemed to work fine when I got it, however, soon after using it, the camera’s shutter mechanism would not cock properly and I had to have it repaired (or in fact the shutter had to be replaced), and this of course cost a bit (190), so the camera I bought wasn’t so much of a bargain for me after all.

However, I’ve still got the camera and it’s now working fine and it will probably continue to work for another 20 years without any problems!.

Very pleased with this camera. The F3HP is possibly the best SLR ever made. The one I purchased is in mint condition and much nicer than I expected. I gave this one only four stars because the internal light meter does not function properly in manual mode.

This is of no consequence for me as I use it only for outdoor work and never use an internal light meter anyway.

You are here, looking at a NIKON so you are on the right step. I first started using an old Nikon F Potomic T, made in 1965 and I was using this at my first news paper job in 1974, so Nikon equipment last.

In a few short years I was shooting with the Nikon F2 Photomic with a motor drive and that lasted over ten years. The next camera was the Nikon F3 with the MD-4 motor drive. Throughout those years, I used lenses I bought in 74 and up to 89 when I retired as a forensic photographer.

None of the Nikons ever let me down, the F3-HP with drive was so nice to use, well balanced no matter what lens I was using. Often I would have two, sometimes three cameras in use at one time; one with a wide angle 24mm, another with a 35mm f: 1.

4 for low light and the third a short telephoto 105mm lens. My cameras were my tools and as such, worked, I did not have time to baby them, and they had been banged against walls, against each other, and dropped, as I slipped down a hill.

After picking myself up, dusting off my camera, the two I had still worked with a few new scratches. Today, these cameras can still be found and still working; its been thirty-five years or more since they came out and Nikon has introduced over a hundred different new or redesigned lenses and I believe everyonewill work on the old F3 or F3-HP.

There is no doubt that the Nikon F soirees is one of the best and oldest made camera and that should mean something. You can use almost all the new lenses, but why, the older lenses are sharp and as well built as the Nikon F body is.

I have bought my son an F3 for his first camera and I cant count how many I have bought off eBay because of the price. Its time for me to start selling off a few, but I will always have my trusty Nikon F2 and F3-HP for when I want to shoot film.

Good luck and buy a camera that your children will use!.

i love the way the pictures look when taken on 35mm film, i bought the camera back in march of this year and i just developed the film now in august. sadly about more than half the photos didn’t come at all not sure what happened but the photos that did come out look so amazing!!! i love disposable cameras, this one is always out of stock at the targets around me and the price has gone up which sucks so bad.

I always love taking disposable camera photos for the “aesthetic” and memories I’ve been able to capture over the years. Target and numerous competitors have been out of stock (in my area) recently, so I was ecstatic when I saw that there were some in store.

This the Red Card discount made it a great deal.

I was really excited to use this camera because it is inexpensive and seemingly worked well. For the first roll, loading, shooting and removing the film was super easy and worked great. However, when loading my second roll of film, the camera would catch the film, but did not have enough strength to pull the film around to properly wind it.

The spool would wind when nothing was attached but as soon as the film was hooked in, it wouldn’t wind. I understand that things can wear over time, but after one roll???.

Bought this camera for days/nights out with my friends. Exceptionally easy to use and has a powerful flash. The price is more than worth it considering it comes with two rolls of film. All the fun and ease of a disposable with the ability to choose your film and reuse.

A Revelog film could be really fun in a camera like this.

For the longest time i had always wanted to take up the hobby of photography. I have always wanted to take breathtaking pictures! pictures i could be proud of, but which route should i take? Digital or 35mm? I wanted to take traditional pictures on film so i could get the best possible photography experience this is why I chose the 35mm route and the camera i purchased to get me on my way with my new hobby was the Nikon N55 SLR camera.

I have had this camera for a few months now and decided that now as the time to post my opinions on this neat little camera! I purchased my N55 and It came with the camera body itself, a 28mm – 80mm zoom lens, two cr2 batteries, a lanyard and some very good hints and tips books from Nikon on how to get the most from this camera.

I also purchased another zoom lens 70 – 300mm and a camera bag so i could protect my latest purchase. When you first take the camera out of the box and attach the lens, which is very easy to do, (simply put the back of the lens into the camera and turn anti-clockwise until it clicks) the camera looks complicated compared to the normal easy to use point and shoot cameras that I had been used to in the past.

, but do not let this fool you, this is one of the easiest cameras to use. The first thing you notice when you pick up the camera is how comfortable it feels in your hands. It is very well designed, I have very large hands and I have no problems handling this small SLR camera.

On the top right hand side of the camera you will see a large easy to read lcd display. The lcd display tells you everything you need to know about the current set up of your camera including what aperture the lens is currently set to and what speed the shutter will operate at when you take your picture.

It also displays if you have the flash enabled whether or not you have red eye reduction engaged and of course it also tells you how many pictures you have left on your roll of film (the counter counts backwards) and how much battery life you have remaining.

On the top left hand side of the camera you will find a dial that lets you chose the different modes the camera has to offer, these range from fully automatic operation so you can just point and shoot , right to a completely manual mode where you have to set the aperture and shutter speeds yourself.

There are other setting you can chose so you can take the best possible pictures. There is a setting for portrait pictures, when selected the camera will change the settings so that the person or object you focus on will be very clear and very sharp, but the background will be slightly blurred so the main object stands out! I have taken some wonderful portrait pictures using this option.

There are also settings for night or low light pictures, action or sports pic The Nikon N55 is by far, the most amazing camera I have ever owned. I am so glad that I decided to take the plunge and switch to an SLR camera.

If you are in the market for a point and shoot camera or an SLR camera, the N55 is the perfect choice. You can buy this and use it as a point and shoot camera and you will be stunned by the amount of improvement there is in the quality of your prints, or if you are like me and want to start photography as a hobby, this camera will offer you most of the features found on the bigger more expensive SLR cameras that are available.

This is a great little camera! for people who want to take great pictures but don’t want to fork over the cash for a DSLR, film is still a great option. look online, there are many other professional photographers that agree, film still has better quality of images than any digital camera to come out yet.

Nikon is a great way to go because there are so many great lenses to choose from that can get you started. While the N55 is a basic camera, this is great for people new to SLRs. I mainly bought this set-up for the lens, which these lenses are incredible! Focus is super fast and is practically macro.

it focuses at just 14in through all zoom levels. The older models of this same lens had a macro setting at just 28mm that focused at 10in. The superior nikon glass makes for really sharp pictures as well.

If you are considering this, get it! most likely it is very affordable and you will not be let down!.

I bought this camera because I have owned many Nikon SLR’s over the years but this is my first auto SLR. I have been using Digital cameras and decided to buy this one because I wanted a Nikon at a reasonable price, plus I wanted to get back to 35mm film.

I was pleasnatly suprised at the ease and effortless use of Nikon’s low end SLR. The response in auto was very good. The focus worked great and the prints came out fine. I used the pop-up flash and compared it with my TLL hotshoe flash.

Very pleased with the pop-up at close range and even at 20 feet at night the flash did OK with minor adjustment to the final print. This is a great beginner cmaera for those wanting to learn film photography.

The lens gives a wide range of use including close-ups at 28mm. I am glad I bought this camera and plan on using it for my hikes in Arizona this Spring.

Where do I start. Well firstly its a newer SLR, but it isnt a cheap flimsy one. The quality is through the roof. It even has an ISO dial which are super rare on newer SLR cameras (most have a fixed DX coding).

This allows for creative control via pushing and pulling. The AF is great, it has a shutter speed 4x faster than my Nikon F55 (1/8000). Its actually a faster shutter speed than my digital M100. I havent actually tested this yet but I KNOW this will produce beautiful images.

The light seal is still perfectly intact. The sound; the feel. I had low expectations for $65 but Im so thrilled with this.

This is a great camera. A little plastic fantastic. Great value and capable of using almost all the lenses nikon have produced up to the newest g lenses with full auto exposure, aperture and shutter priority.

I love film cameras and bought a Nikon EM with a 50mm f/1. 8 lens. I then looked for a zoom lens for it and got a Sigma 28-105 zoom through eBay. The lens is autofocus and manual so I looked for a nice Nikon autofocus body and saw this on offer.

I bought it and it is performing impeccably. It’s real quality.

If you want to film equivalent to a modern day basic digital Canon SLR that works with contemporary digital autofocus lenses you will not do much better than buy one of these cameras. The only disadvantage is that a pack of 3×36 exposure rolls of film and the processing will probably cost more than the camera!.

I recently purchased a camera. And dont get me wrong. Camera is nice. It came 3 days after purchase which was great and when I opened the package I was very upset to sell straight up cigarettes. The strap and camera itself smell awful.

I have to de sanitize and wash the strap to get rid of the awful smell. Havent tested the camera but after the fact was told I need to purchase the battery and one was not included.

I have the Canon 300D – UK equivalent to the Rebel. I have found this camera easy to use, and as much as people try to teach me about photography, the best way to learn is to experiment with what you have.

The “Auto” setting is great and I have fun changing apertures and shutter speeds etc; it’s not like the old days when you had to pay for every print. you can just delete anything that you don’t like.

It’s compact, light and fits nicely into my hands. I have just invested in a macro lens and can’t wait to get started with that. I also feel that with this camera, like most others, you should invest in a good tripod.

just put it on my Christmas wish list!.

While it may not be the highest quality camera, it is super fun to give or receive as a gift for any film photographer lovers out there. Who doesn’t want to build their own camera? I enjoyed the process of making it a lot and learned more in-depth about the basic of how a film camera operates.

Have bought this for myself as I really enjoy nature photography. Really looking forward to assembling the camera and going out to capture done great shots. Instructions late really clear and am confident I will very soon have my camera ready to use! Will be nice to compare and contrast the quality of the shots with those I take with my iPhone.

I saw this and knew that I had to get it for my better half. He loved it! He did mention that it is quite fiddly in parts as there are some very small components but he really enjoyed making it. He also made it in 40 minutes, but he’s used to fixing machinery and such.

A must have for the person who loves to understand how things work through building it themselves. There is no flash with this camera not is there any film, yet the Kodak porta 120 seems to work very well.

At €35 you’d be missing out. Might even buy myself one now !.

It’s a way to try film photography, that a positive thing. It is however, very low in quality. I think if I squeezed it hard it would break. It’s very light and it won’t be a burden to have it with you all the time.

My preference would be to spend double the price and pick up something older and more interesting.

I needed a camera for my vacation and I prefer film over digital – it keeps me honest in the photo album department. I first purchased an older model Canon 35mm which came with two monster telephoto lenses but no flash attachment+.

Even if it had flash, it weighed at least HEAVY and not worth lugging through the airports wherever I go. So I remembered the Sure Shot, bid and got this model for an embarrassingly low price. The vendor was the best I’ve ever worked with on eBay, bar none.

Not only was it a steal, but came in mint condition, lovingly packed with batteries on the side. Plus, he paid more for postage than I was charged! The Canon Sure Shot is an idiot-proof camera that can be adjusted to suit your level of photography.

I highly recommend this to camera to 35mm film users because it’s easy to load, lightweight, and sturdy, plus the point-and-shoot feature is quite handy and produces good results.

this camera is very easy and simple to use. most of its featues are automatic which means you don’t have to worry about things like the focusing. some cameras dont have red eye reduction but this one does which is great because i have when pictures are ruined by red eyes.

the zoom is probably its best feature because its very big, it has a zoom lens of 38mm – 135mm. There is also a timer so you can take pictures with you included. i would recommend this camera to people.

thanks.

rugged styling with slr quality results,far better than the over priced plastic toy type oly mju2.

It is a great film camera for beginners, but the plastic and the shutter can be finicky. The shutter button and rewind button, since they are made of plastic, tend to be dainty and finicky. But, overall, not an awful camera to carry around.

It is light, compact, and the color/texture of the exterior is beautiful.

Seems much cheaper than I expected. It doesnt feel ‘vintage’ or anything, but rather cheap plastic, Made in China, could have bought used. It is nice that it is rather light, fairly compact, flash works well.

If you’re looking for something durable, this is for you.

It was packaged perfectly! The quality is awesome and it’s the perfect size to pack and carry around to snap quick photos. LOVE the green. Just what I was hoping for!

I picked up this camera not expecting much but I was honestly blown away by the simplicity of this camera. No fancy settings, just point and shoot and it is so freeing to experience this again. I’ve enjoyed being able to step back and not have to think about my photography so much.

It’s just a nice cheap camera that acts like a disposable just isn’t as wasteful!.

This really was a simple, fun little camera to use. The video review that AW posted says it all really – I used this to record a day in my life without the complications of the exposure triangle or worries about getting my expensive camera damaged.

The flash wasn’t used a lot but it charged up much quicker than the manufacturers claim although no doubt that will get longer as the (replaceable) battery starts to expire. I bought the B&W version so it has no attached filters but am going to pop a roll of colour film in next to see what that does.

I’m looking forward to getting my negatives back from Digitalab soon.

I’m still taking photos with this so no idea how good they’ll turn out to be, but I’ve loved going out and taking pictures; with film the process of having to be choosy about what you shoot is as important as the pictures themselves, and just for tgat this nifty little camera is worth every penny.