20 Best 3D Printer For Tpu (2022 Updated)

This is a great printer at a great price. It prints professional double-sided ID cards that look great and, to date, seem to be quite durable. We purchased the Gold Edition software, and there was a definite learning curve learning the software and experimenting with various settings.

Once we got the hang of things, however, it became a breeze to make different designs for our various departments. I also very much appreciate the batch printing option — once we were ready we batch printed all the cards and a picked them all up less than an hour later.

Great choice overall!.

I have used E-sun pla+ countless times in other colors but this is the first time printing with white. I found this filament to be very brittle more so than regular pla and it should have been a lot stonger imo.

I found broken filament in my PTFE tube after my second print about 80 percent full spool and repeated snapping between prints when the printer is idle. this cause the filament o rewind back into the spool wich in turn cause the filament to binded while printing.

i do not know what the difference in compution white PLA + but i will not purchase it again.

Canon Maxify GX6021 all in one wireless MegaTank printer is designed for use in small to medium home office that need print, copy, and scan. This printer is an all-in-one color printer in a super compact form factor that doesn’t take more desk space.

It can print up to 6000 Black/ 14,00 Color pages per full ink bottle set and can hold 350 sheet paper capacity in the tray. Its small but powerful and is using an Megatank an innovative cartridge-free where there is no need to purchase expensive ink cartridges.

It saves a lot in cost of ink compared to the ink cartridges and it does come with full set of ink in box compared to trial size that will be included in other printers. What’s in the box: Printer, Power cord, Ink bottles – Black ink and 1 bottle of Cyan, Magenta, yellow each and instruction manual.

Setup is simple and it can be connected without a computer from the app, or you can connect through ethernet. Download the app Canon PRINT from the Appstore or play store and follow the instructions for setup.

It does support Hi-Speed USB Wi-Fi®, (802. 11 b/g/n), Wi-Fi Direct. Works well with both windows and mac OS and doesn’t need any separate drivers to get started. This printer supports a USB stick printing where you plug in your USB stick with documents and directly print it without the need of a computer.

Supports Apple Air print to print directly from iOS directly. It also can scan the documents and upload directly to cloud and integrates to google drive and other applications. Major Pro of this printer is zero cartridge waste (less cartridge waste in landfills) and stress-free printing Print quality is very impressive with sharp texts and graphics.

Ink is affordable for high yield on all 4 colors and since the page yields are more than laser printer, cost per page to print color copies is less than 2 cents per page and are now affordable. Canon has an impressive worry free 3-year or 80,000 pages warranty that includes full unit replacement for peace of mind.

Printer can hold 250 sheets of plain paper in the bottom cassette feed, and 100 sheets of plain paper in rear tray. It supports all paper sizes and types from high resolution paper that is glossy to photo paper (glossy/semigloss, Matte, Magnetic), Greeting card, Envelopes, Card stock.

It works with voice assistant like Alexa and google assistant. Very impressive with the print speed for color printing and is very fast compared to other printers owned so far. Pros: Compact footprint, Stress-free printing, zero cartridge waste, high performance printing, scanning to cloud directly, USB printing without the need of computer, smartphone integration, 3-year or 80000 pages warranty, High page yield with good paper capacity, easy to replace print heads Cons: Initial high investment Bottomline: If you have a home office or small business and have demand for high volume to print color pages at lower cost then this printer is for you.

Highly recommend if you can afford the initial one time investment for a worry free printing.

The Canon – MAXIFY MegaTank GX6021 Wireless All-In-One Inkjet Printer is very compact and packed with powerful features for print, scan, and copy. It came with HP MAXIFY GX6020 Wireless MegaTank Small Office All-In-One Printer, a Set of Ink Bottles (GI-26: BK, C, M, Y), Documentation, and a Power Cord.

This high-quality ink tank printer includes up to 3-Year or 80,000 Page Limited Warranty with InstantExchange Program. Setup is very easy by following the steps on LCD. I have followed the instructions to configure the printer to print over the wireless.

After the software installation and configuring the printer, I was able to see this printer on a home network to print from any device. It is very convenient to print from other devices and my kids are using this printer every day for their summer project work and printing from their laptops as well as from their phones.

This printer has built-in dual-band WiFi. It can print up to 6,000 Black/ 14,000 color pages with just a single set of inks and prints up to 24. 0 ISO ipm in black, up to 15. 5 ISO ipm in color. It can handle large volumes quickly at a low cost per page.

It has featured Apple Airprint enabled print from iPad and iPhone. The Auto Document Feeder (ADF) can copy multi-page documents with ease with the 50-Sheet. It is easy to print from USB flash drive. The resolution of printing is superior quality and it can print up to 1200 x 600 dpi (dots per inch) color resolution.

The paper tray can hold up to 350 sheets of plain paper and a 250-Sheet bottom cassette and a 100-Sheet rear tray. It is compatible with AirPrint, Mopria Print Service4, Canon PRINT app2, Easy-PhotoPrint Editor App19, Canon Print Service20 (Android), PIXMA Cloud Link2 and Creative Park App21.

The design is very good with stylus looking. I have been using Inkjet printers and cheap laser printers before and Canon – MAXIFY MegaTank GX6021 Wireless All-In-One Inkjet Printer is a huge upgrade.

I am using this every day to copy, print, and scan for my personal and office work. It is one of the best printers in the market with excellent configuration. I highly recommend this printer for home and office use.

The Canon MAXIFY MegaTank GX6021 offers beautiful color and black & white printing at the lowest cost per page – as much as 80% lower than high-yield laser cartridges! Printing at a cost of less than 2 cents-per-page relieves stress from printing cost & frequently running out of high-priced ink worries.

The MAXIFY GX6021 employs a 4-Color Pigment Ink System, producing crisp color & black & white printing. The “Mega Tanks” included with this machine print up to 6,000 Black & 14,000 Color pages! I was concerned about spilling ink as I poured these 4) cartridges into the printer.

Not to worry! The nozzles are built in such a way where the ink container must make full contact with the printer to release the ink, making it virtually impossible to leak or spill even a drop of ink.

More Canon Quality! There are 2) places to load paper in this printer: the bottom tray holds up to 250 sheets of paper & the rear compartment holds 100 sheets. This high capacity is appropriate, since it prints at high speed: up to 24 Impressions per minute black & 15.

5 Impressions per minute color. The touch-sensitive color display is crisp & clear & gives you full control of options without a computer. The only issue I found with this printer is: by default, it shuts itself off after several hours of non-use.

When shut off, it no longer receives WiFi print commands without going to the printer & pressing the Power On button. To eliminate this inconvenience, select Menu on the display, choose Device Settings: ECO: Turn Auto Power OFF.

CONCLUSION: The Canon MAXIFY GX6021 offers fantastic quality printing at the lowest cost & is a premium quality-built machine. It earns my highest recommendation.

Filament was very brittle for pla filament upon arrival. It frequently breaks unnecessarily do to the filament being expired upon arrival. I would not recommend this for this filament is of poor quality, overly priced for the quality, and will frequently cause problems inside your 3D printer.

With that said the only reason I gave this a star above 1 star is because the prints don’t come out too bad with it. It could have layer adhesion issues but it does not to the extend I would have thought it would have had.

But retraction issues are still pretty bad though with this filament. I also give them credit for the filament was extremely nicely wound. I wouldn’t have thought that to have been the case for the price of the filament.

Thanks!.

Prints ok in my modified Ender 3. It works best at around 235c nozzle and 60c glass bed. I’m using a Titan Aero extruder so I’m not fighting with the filament slipping on the hob gear while being forced through a foot of boden tube.

The only complaint I have with this is that even though it was sealed and with the dessicant in place the material pops and crackles as if it’s been sitting in a sauna before it was sealed up. I’m not getting failed prints but they’re not very smooth at all.

Honestly I just wanted to prove to myself that my machine could print this material and it does. Are the parts smooth and useable? Not so much. One good thing is that layer adhesion is amazing. Once the parts are printed I cannot tear it apart by hand.

Pretty amazing. If I dried this stuff out in the oven and printed with it I’m sure it would look and feel awesome.

Over the past tree years, I’ve used almost every brand of filament out there (including some unbranded ones). So far, Hatchbox is one of the best (if not THE best) brands I’ve used. I was pleasantly surprised to see how neatly wound each layer of filament is as it comes off the spool and enters the machine.

Best of all, I got the filament at a sensible price. Great deal!.

I was having excessive adhesion issues petg on my PEI coated glass bed and was worried I would damage my prints or bed when I was removing them. I tried this based on some YouTube recommendations and it worked well.

Adhesion was very good when hot but released easily when cooled. I’m not sure it’s much more than liquid glue stick but it goes on smoother. I haven’t needed to reapply each print either, I have ran 4 prints on one application so far.

For my needs. It worked great.

I’ve had the ET-8550 for a few weeks after waiting many months for it to become available. It produces impressive results printing documents, photos, and DVDs. But setting it up was a nightmare. The instructions about setup are scattered across several html documents with small print, lots of links, and numbered series of steps that sometimes don’t seem specific or tell exactly what to do.

There are also instructions on the printer’s little screen, some of them hard to interpret and some at odds with the printed documentation. A number of crucial terms are unfamiliar and undefined. Getting the wireless connection to my computer to work took hours of trial and error.

But that was nothing compared to the difficulties of getting the ET-8550 to print on DVDs (actually Blu-Rays, though as far as the printer is concerned, there’s no difference). I bought the ET-8550 to replace my Epson 1430, which used a separate app called “Print CD” for this function.

Since I didn’t find any instructions about how to print CDs on the ET-8550, I tried toe use “Print CD. ” Opening it led to an error message and a document that specified a series of steps that didn’t work but led to the conclusion that the AirPlay protocol built into my Mac’s OS wouldn’t work.

I took the steps of opening an Epson account so that I could connect via Epson Remote, and this ultimately led to an error message reporting that Print CD was missing a driver. I couldn’t find such a driver anywhere.

I called Epson support and over a period of three days had long sessions with about ten different service people, who mostly took the time to consult the online instructions that I had already seen and ask if I had downloaded the drivers that I had already downloaded.

They promised callbacks from technicians at higher levels, some of which happened and some of which didn’t. Finally, there was a technician who doubted that the ET-8550 could be used with the app Print CD and thought that the way to print on disks was to use a new app called “Photo Plus.

” The home page of this app in fact listed CDs as one of the eight options available, but it was the only one dimmed out. Hovering the mouse over it produced the message that it was not available with my printer (the printer’s advertisements all include the feature of CD printing).

Finally, another technician a day later suggested that I reinstall the driver and connect to the internet via a path that was neither AirPlay or Epson Connect. None of this is in any of the documentation! But it did work and the results are good.

I’m grateful for the expertise of the woman who solved the problem. The reason for my three-star rating is the appalling inadequacy of the setup instructions and technical support.

I bought this printer about a month ago (as soon as it became available in the Northeastern U. S. ) from Office Depot–not the first place you would think of for a photo printer, but at least they had it in stock.

The price went up by $100 compared to what it was last winter when I tried to order it. So much for our new period of inflation and broken supply chains. Nevertheless, I already own an Epson ET-3600 for conventional printing, two HP network laser printers and an aging Canon Pixma Pro 9000, which uses 8 inks–and they are becoming very expensive.

The Canon printer still produces superb color, but black & white is another story. I was hoping the ET-8550 would produce better B&W images, and so far I have not been disappointed. Having printed silver prints with my old Beseler 4×5 enlarger in the darkroom, I’ve found it impossible to get decent B&W prints on any inkjet printer.

Until now. The ET-8580’s output on (believe it or not) Costco’s Kirkland glossy paper rivals anything I got out of my darkroom on conventional silver paper: blacks are black and gray scale to white is perfect.

I have not yet tried matte paper, but I expect the results will be equally superb. With a minor density adjustment, I easily calibrated the ET-8550’s output to match the Canon printer, which was initially calibrated to match 4-color offset printer results and my screen.

This was an easy task compared to matching color in the darkroom–even with a darkroom color analyzer. At first, I thought the front door that opens when I print was a little silly. But I like the printer to be fully closed when in not in use.

It can’t catch dust when it’s closed. The back tray for larger paper is OK for what I do. I haven’t yet tried printing on both sides of ledger-based plain paper. This is something I would do only occasionally for print proofs.

So far, so good! I’m pleased with the printer and the accessibility of the ink storage area, compared to the side-mounted ink vessels on the ET-3600. I have scanned images from old Kodachrome slides, 6×6 cm color and B&W positives and negatives, and 4×5 and 5×7 B&W negatives, all scanned on Epson photo scanners.

The final output I get even from film more than 40 years old is amazing–easier and better than all the hours I spent in the darkroom.

The build quality, from the Inland brand of filament, makes fairly decent objects that are clean and solid. for the most part. Occasionally we have had adhesion issues with layers not sticking to each other.

This may not be the filament’s fault as there could be many reasons for this other than poor quality filament. The main problem, though, is something we’ve had to deal with quite a few of the different spools we’ve purchased.

the filament is so tightly wound on the spools that it sometimes twists and the printer is unable to pull it from the spool. We had one that was so tightly twisted that it would not budge and, of course, this happened while we were sleeping so we didn’t catch it.

The extruder actually pulled hard enough to dismount the filament-out sensor array at the top of our Creality CR-10 V3 from where it was attached. Final thoughts, on this (and possibly other filament brands as this apparently happens to them all), is “Buyer Beware!” Like I said, it IS good filament with very little problems, but the problems it does have are big ones.

Basically, just keep an eye on the extrusion of the filament and make sure it doesn’t get caught up in a tight twist or, worse even, an actual knot! The pic is of an Egyptian cat we were in the process of printing when the binding of the filament occurred.

Since the filament-out sensor still detected filament it kept on trying to print and was just going through its motions. in thin air!.

It prints OK in some scenarios. For whatever reason it requires a nozzle temperature of 230 and a bed temperature of 70 on my tenlog tld3 pro, which is higher than the 210, 60 that works for hatchbox pla.

The glass transition temperature is also lower than the hatchbox. But the main problem with this filament is that it warps almost like abs. It also almost always required glue on my textured glass print bed before I switched to PEI.

I printed a benchy with this filament and the hull is mangled because of the warping. The PEI bed, however held on really well to the model, and the bottom is flat and smooth. The black benchies are made of inland pla.

The white ones are made of hatchbox glow pla.

This filament has a consistent diameter and is spooled properly. It prints as well as any ABS filament I have tried. With that said, ABS is not a great material for FDM 3D printers unless you absolutely need something that will withstand temperatures around 100°C.

ABS needs to be printed inside an enclosure or it will warp badly. ABS gives off some nasty fumes during printing. ABS will not print small detail as well as other materials. ABS is generally printed with no part cooling fan to avoid warping, which makes it difficult to print overhangs and bridges.

Some people have managed to mitigate that with some complex slicer setting that use the part cooling fan on overhangs and bridges only, but that will take significant experimentation to dial in. (Included photos show the overhand issues on the X and Y faces of a simple calibration cube.

The defects on the bottom few layers of the print were caused by Z-hop settings and are not the fault of the filament. They are in black Inland ABS as I do not have a good test print in Gray available at the moment and the issues are easier to see in black) If you need more heat resistance than PLA but below about 80°C, I’d recommend buying the Inland PETG instead.

Again, this is a well made ABS filament, but all ABS is tricky to print with.

Solidly built (11kg – I felt sorry for the delivery girl !). I ordered this printer after doing a lot of researching online. A lot of reviews say it is “built like a tank” – and it is! It is easy to set up – its mostly built up for you (minimum of assembly).

I couldn’t get it to level the baseplate with the paper very easily – but found it easier to setup using the auto level module. I was up and running in less than half an hour. I am very impressed with this printer so far – the quality of the prints is very good.

I’ve printed about 15 things so far, and with the exception of 1 (probably my fault, as I am totally new to this), all have come out excellent. I have not attached the laser yet ( I’m having too much fun with the printer! ), but will get round to it soon.

All the reviews say the laser is very easy to setup and use, and results are good. It can be a steep learning curve – I had to learn all about 3D printing, slicing, CAD etc, but I am enjoying it. If this printer keeps going like it has so far – I will be very happy.

I got this for a great price (161) from the Anycubic shop on Ebay – its advertised for up to 350+ in some places! I can recommend this printer.

This printer has a very good and solid construction with a full steel housing. Low noise when printing with high precision 3D prints. The laser tool is so cool! Very easy to use 15 minutes after unpacking.

The only problem is the front / left corner of the bed was too low and not adjustable properly with the springs system underneath. I installed 4 new silicone buffer with some washers and one supplementary one under the left / front corner and now the bed can be leveled properly for all corners.

There was also a plastic strain relief on the rear / right spring. This is not a good idea as it can cause a problem with leveling the bed. I throw it out anyway for installing the silicone pad.

A bit skeptical at first ride a couple of reviews looked into more about other 3D printers Anycubic has such a nice layout. From the information on the printer down to the simple leveling techniques and other things that the printer could be set for beginners.

I’ve been printing six years now using a clone version of a 3D printer which I will not speak of, still worked. I have upgraded and moved on anycubic is my new go-to for my 3D printer and the next upgrade would be a bigger platform.

Hands down such a nice quite machine. I love the gear to gear extruder (easy to get the right flow) The assisted bed leveling is in my opinion one of the top features. Auto level is great but if you don’t have one or need one, asst leveling is absolute! The non heated bed (MEGA ZERO) inscription is really nice and how light yet very durable.

The adjustment points for level are nice nobs to turn with ease (I love this) the extruder and it’s cooling system with its blower fan is very impressive and quiet at the same time. the print was the code that came with the system I gave it a run after 3 goes at leveling that was at the first attempt using filament that was supplied Anycubic.

The fantastic finish overall with great texture, smooth lines, quality print. I’m very happy with this and I can’twait for my next one. Thank you Charlie MATERIACOLLECTOR.

OK, so I am new to 3D printing and a novice to the whole process and have only been doing it for a month, so that is my extent of time for this review. My adult son and I each decided to get this printer and picked them up on a special deal.

We physically drove 1 1/2 hours to go to a Micro Center to purchase the printers as the sales price was an instore only purchase. The sales rep we dealt with was great and took his time in explaining the process, the different filaments, some of the challenges to expect, as well as future upgrades we may want to consider for the printer.

He did not use any sales pressure and was patient and very knowledgeable in answering all of our questions. Once starting to put it together there are printed directions included and they were pretty straight forward and all the tools necessary came with the printer.

Of note, there are no printed instructions for the actual operating of the printer. The instructions on operating the printer are on the thumb drive provided. I did not see any notes on that anywhere and that would have been nice to have known as I did not figure this out until later when I went to use the thumb drive.

The small test filament provided is not very good. In fact, I would chuck it and load different filament and not waste my time with it. Also, there is a bed leveling program by Cura that works great.

I recommend using that as well. Once put together and getting bed leveled I was 3D printing. I did have one minor print flaw on one of my first prints when the filament started stringing like spaghetti but I attribute that to the provided filament and it not being on a spool.

I suspect as I do more complex printing this probably wont be my last flaw and there will be more to come. There are a ton of videos out there to assist in putting the printer together as well as ideas on printable upgrades for the printer.

I have already recommended this printer to some friends that are starting out in 3D printing and they went out and bought the printer as well. The service at Micro Center was great and we like the printer so far and would recommend it.

The Ender-3 Pro I bought from Micro Center was well packaged and easy to assemble. However, it had some issues out of the box: 1. It would under extrude due to the extruder motor skipping. 2. The bed was a little warped (expected for most printers).

3. Some preassembled components were assembled incorrectly from the factory (one of the extruded base rails was mounted backwards – easy fix). The first issue was primarily due to a low Vref setting on the stepper driver.

The control boards for these printers uses A4988 drivers and a 0. 15 ohm current sense resistor. Using the Vref = R x 8 x Current Rating of motor formula from the A4988 datasheet yields a Vref of 1. 2V for the 1A extruder motor.

Mine was set to 0. 73V. The X, Y, and Z motors are rated for 0. 8A each, so they each would require a Vref of 0. 96V. The Vrefs for these are easily set via the small potentiometers on the control board (RP4 is the reference designator for the extruder, for example).

The center of the potentiometer is conductive, so you can measure the Vref voltage by touching the probe there and referencing it to DC – (black wire) coming in from the power supply. My X, Y, and Z were all set to less than 0.

55V. I bumped these all up to their proper values and experienced no more extrusion or skipped layer issues due to low drive strength of the stepper motors. At these settings, the stepper motors ran at a comfortable temperature (not at all too hot to touch).

The second issue is common as printer beds tend to warp a bit during heating/cooling cycles. Usually, this is not much, but even a tenth of a millimeter can make a difference. To address this, I purchased a CR Touch Z-axis probe and connected it to the 5-position socket on the control board meant just for this purpose.

These sensors allow you to use this probe to home the Z-axis and generate a bed level mesh to compensate for warped beds – this works very well once you can get it to work. You have to update the firmware on the printer to enable the CR Touch probe.

However, I found the firmware to do this on Creality’s website to be VERY buggy – the Z-offset and bed leveling did not work at all as they gave highly erroneous values to these parameters. To correct this, I had to download Marlin bugfix 2.

0. 9. 3 and compile it with the features used for this 3D printer in configuration. h and configuration_adv. h files (there are specific ones pre-generated for the Ender-3). I found this to be a somewhat complex/tedious process.

I (H5Labs) posted compiled binaries at https://github. com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/23806 in case anyone wants to just download, update, and go. I provided two versions there; one that supports a CR Touch/BL Touch probe and one that is completely stock as the Creality stock firmware is quite buggy.

There is also information at this link that tells you how to set your Z-probe offset when using a CR Touch/ BL Touch. These changes alone get this printer working very well. Additional changes that improve it further making it a true “diamond” include: -Dual-Gear extruder: The factory extruder is plastic and is prone to breaking or losing its tension over time.

An ideal extruder is the Bondtech extruder, which gears down providing more than 3x torque (I implement these on all my 3D printers – I never have extrusion issues afterwards). But, there are other less expensive dual-gear options out there I’ve tried with great results.

If you DO change out to a dual-gear extruder, you will likely need to change out your extruder motor to a Creatlity 42-40 stepper motor without the gear installed as these tend to have a shaft length of about 20mm.

The one that comes stock on these printers has a press-fit gear on them and the shaft is only about 15mm, which is too short on which to install the dual-gear drive gear. -Enclosure: a nice enclosure such as the Creality 445x565x685mm enclosure helps to prevent warping on larger (X/Y) prints as it retains heat in the enclosure.

-Z-axis support rods: These attach to the base legs and the top of the Z-axis extrusions to make the structure a lot more rigid. This helps minimize vibrations for taller prints. -Silicone Bed Mounts: The bed springs that come with the Ender-3 are not great – their spring constant tends to change over time/use.

Silicone bed mounts are inexpensive and implement a semi-rigid bed mount. You can still adjust to get it roughly level and it is more likely to stay consistent with these. -3D printed parts: You can find lot of upgrades on sites like www.

thingiverse. com that you can 3D print yourself. Personally, I like the cable chains – helps tidy up all the wiring. Other items to consider: • Route signal wires away from motor wires as much as possible to minimize noise induction.

• The dual-gear extruder drive gear has a smaller diameter than the original drive gear that comes with the 3D printer. This is a good thing as it results in higher torque capability to apply more force to push the filament.

However, this also requires adjustment of the Extruder steps/mm. For the stock motor/extruder, this value is between 93 and 100 steps/mm. For the dual-gear extruder, this needs to be increased to about 135 steps/mm.

Use the LCD control to set the steps/mm (Configuration -> Advanced Settings -> Steps/mm -> Extruder). o To properly calibrate this setting, use a G Code sender program such as Pronterface (connect PC to Printer via USB).

 For the dual-gear extruder specified above, start with 135 Steps/mm. For the stock extruder, start with 93 Steps/mm. For a Bondtech type (3:1 geared) extruder, start with 415 Steps/mm.  Preheat nozzle to ~200C  Measure 120mm of filament from the extruder inlet – mark this point on the filament  Extrude 100mm of filament using the following G Code commands: • M83 ;This sets relative positioning mode for the Extruder • G1 E100 F100 ;This makes the extruder move ~100mm over about a minute.

 Once done, measure the distance between the extruder inlet and the mark on the filament – this should be 20mm if the steps/mm is set correctly. If it is less than 20mm, the steps/mm is too high. If it is more than 20mm, the steps/mm is too low.

You can calculate what the steps/mm should be based on your measurement via the following: • Steps/mm = (Total steps) / (100 – Actual extrusion length) where: o Total steps = your steps/mm value x 100 (i.

e. for 135 steps/mm, this would be 13,500). o Actual extrusion length = 120 – the distance you measured between the extruder inlet and the mark on the filament (i. e. if you measured 18mm, this would be 120 – 18 = 102mm).

 Change your Extruder steps/mm based on your calculations, if needed. Store settings to EEPROM using the LCD controls (Configuration -> Store Settings), otherwise the old settings would be restored at the next power up.

• I recommend using Prusa Slicer for the slicer software. The Ender-3 comes with an SD Card containing Cura, which is also a slicer. But, I find Prusa Slicer to be better supported and easier to get going.

Plus, it has pre-configured machine settings for the Ender-3 with a BL Touch sensor (BL Touch and CR Touch are interchangeable and are essentially the same thing – however, the CR Touch has a more robust metal probe as compared to the plastic probe of the BL Touch).

• Also note, when printing with PLA (the most common plastic), the extrusion multiplier should be set to about 0. 9 if the extruder steps/mm is calibrated properly (if set to 1. 0, this can cause over extrusion, which can result in shifted layers during printing).

For ABS (a higher shrink-rate plastic), this would be closer to 1. 0. • If the 3D printer is configured for using a CR Touch, BL Touch, or EZABL bed leveling sensor, the starting G Code script in the slicer software should include the following two G Code commands: o G28 ;Auto home all axes.

o G29 ;Generate a bed leveling mesh – this should be done after preheating the bed and nozzle. The starting G code script is added to every single sliced G code file. Hope this helps. -D. J.

Is this the absolute latest model printer by Creality? Definitely not. But is it still a reliable entry machine for those looking to begin 3D printing? You betcha. I’ve owned four different printers since I joined the hobby, and while the Ender 3 Pro isn’t going to stand out much from a crowd of more expensive printers in terms of functionality, there’s absolutely no denying that once you’ve got the printer dialed in properly and you feel comfortable with what you’re doing, the Ender 3 Pro is going to serve as a total workhorse.

Pros: -Very well priced, especially if you catch it on sale -Quite a large print area, even compared to much more “premium” printers -Can easily handle PLAs and PETGs -Lots of opportunity for upgrading to make the machine feel personal -Aluminum extrusions make for a solid machine -Literally one of the most popular printer lines in the world, so there’s tons of support videos and articles out there -Constructing the printer is easy and relatively straightforward Cons: -Bed leveling can be a little daunting for someone new -Upgrades are almost essential if you want to do substantial printing –Specifically, there’s a motherboard upgrade that makes the printer whisper-quiet (except for the fans), and you may want to add an automatic bed leveling device, like a BL-touch, or change out the springs on the bed to something that keeps your level longer -Potentially some QA issues if you’re unlucky -No included filament beyond the customary sample for printing a sample print or two My personal experience: I enjoyed the set up process, and I was printing almost immediately after assembly with no issues.

Everything worked fine out of the box. I’d recommend it for both newbies and those looking for a workhorse, with the caveat that you should be willing to get at least somewhat comfortable with tinkering with it.

Really good filament, lovely smooth prints! My only complaint is that it isn’t as dark blue as it looks on my screen but that’s the risk you take

Always used this product, its consistent and find it works well with our Ender 3 3D printer, as supplied from the printer manufacturers website previously.

High quality pints with glossy finish, very strong. Doesnt easy stick to bed to start with so prefer to use with Ultrabase heated bed (or glue stick etc )