20 Best Car Panel Adhesive (2022 Updated)

This 08115 will bond just about anything together, great for metals, plastics, wood, and about anything you want to bond. Best to allow it to dry overnight, however once applied, if the product is out in the direct sunlight, it will harden to usable strength in about 4 to 5 hours.

Great stuff. relative to automotive repair, I have put on roof panels, bedside panels on pick up trucks, and “continuous bond” is stronger than spot welds, and also there is no bare metal in between panels like when a panel is spot or plug welded in place.

I have used it to fill pinholes in metal after sandblasting and there was rust-through. This product is not like body filler that will pop out with rust again.

I have a Husky chainsaw that the fuel tank seam leaked. I came across a chain website and one guy swore on this product so it is a bit pricey but I bought some. I use a dowel to squeeze out the two tunes and mixed manually, applied to the seam giving it a day to harden.

I am a fixer ( perhaps a maker by current standards) all my life and used a lot of products to effect repairs. I can say without doubt this is the best bonding agent I have ever used. If you prep the bonded areas this is not coming apart.

ever! So if your on the fence, jump down and use this you will not regret it. I decided to buy the way over priced applicator gun just for ease of use. Call this JB weld on steriods.

This stuff is an old car owner’s best kept secret! I have a 95 Eclipse that I love dearly, but the sideskirts staying up are a known devil of a problem. Even after buying oem everything and reapplying all the fasteners, they still fell after a year, they just snap off.

So after some digging on the forums, someone suggested this, and I had to give it a go. I will warn, the application gun needed is just as expensive, so borrow one if you can, like I did from a local shop.

But this is the end solution to trim pieces that just refuse to be held in by retainers alone. Something I will always keep in my tool box from now on!.

Well, so far so good. However, we will have to see how it holds over time. Just got done with a rust fixing project on my car. I had to fabricate 5-6 metal patch panels to fix the holes. I was going to use seam sealer and rivets, but then I found this product and thought it would do a better job.

I watched some videos on how to use and some ideas beyond just an adhesive function. I ended up using it as a filler and sealer on areas around the patch panel, and to smooth out the transition between panels.

I used the nozzles, and I pumped it out onto cardboard for applications that needed an “icing” layer to adhere. Probably saved me some time and likely will provide a better seal than using rivets. Also, I chose this model because of the 1/4/24 hour work/clamp/cure time.

I looked at other brands that had all the way down to a 7 minute work time. as well as the 3M 08116 which has a 1. 5hr work time. Glad I did not go with the quick one. The 1hr work time gives you plenty of time to get things right, and tackle several areas in one session.

Anyway, I only gave it 4 stats because it is just so expensive, and you HAVE to use the 3M applicator, which is also expensive.

Used to glue a Corvette C3 door skin where the seam had come loose due to worn door hinge bushings and pins allowing the door to strike the body when closing. The product appears to be very similar to JB Weld.

The gun mixes the epoxy and hardner automatically in the nozzle as it is applied allowing it to be directly inserted into the bonding area. Appears to be stronger with less fumes than JB or other epoxies and completely seals areas from moisture.

Can grind,sand and paint if needed. Downside is slightly costly but if you purchased same amount of JB Weld it would be about the same. Also nozzles are a one time use and are left on when finished for storage to use the epoxy again.

Unknown if long term storage will affect the compounds in the tubes as the chemical reaction may slowly work its way back. Extra nozzles may be ordered if needed at about $2 apiece.

I have not been able to use the panel bond yet, but I am getting the panels ready to be bonded. The panel bond looks good and I think that it will work great.

Was trying to bond a couple of loose pieces inside the door of my vehicle. Cleaned and degreased the parts and applied the Goop; and applied the Goop; and applied the Goop. Has the consistency of thick oil.

Just kept running and running out of the area that I wanted it to stay in. The space is 1/16 inch or less. Have today added 2 more amounts and am waiting to see if it will bond to itself. Looks like it might.

Should have purchased some caulking like material which is what I thought this was.

This product adheres very well. I used it to rejoin the outer edge of the driver’s seat (side and bottom leather cushion). This is a stress area. I did not need to heat the Goop or have anything else with it.

As is usual, there is a lot left over after the car application so I used some on a pair of slippers with the sole and upper detached. And the on a pair of runners – same problem. The Goop has held even though I have used the runners in the sea.

It’s good for fixing some little things around the house. Fixed some toys, a truck nightlight. It failed when I tried it on objects exposed to vibration like a fan cover in a trailer or certain 7. It takes paint well whether you mix it with before applying or paint if after so easy to blend with surrounding colors.

It is easy to come off the fingers. It is kinda stringy when you get it out of tube so can be messy to work with.

Bought this to carry out a repair on the embellisher on a lotus headlight. It’s the typical low quality plastic that is known for easily cracking when even a small force is applied. This plastic is called PPO and research seemingly says it’s hard to find an adhesive that will work successfully.

As it turned out I used a pretty standard rapid epoxy to bond an aluminium strengthener and it worked well. This plastic bonder was excellent when it came to building up the missing sections of plastic that made a bridge over the aluminium section.

Easy to dispense and mix, this is also easy to apply. Building up a decent amount wasn’t too difficult, it can move with gravity but after a few minutes it has stabilized. It has bonded extremely well to both the plastic and also the aluminium I used.

Big bonus is this is black in colour so matches the original colour, unlike the previous owners attempts with glass fibre which were stand out red! New embellishers are 550 pounds plus vat, so this product, along with a couple of other items adding up to 30 pounds, have created a far stronger product.

Very happy indeed.

Rough up the areas you want to glue together and remove any dust from the sanding. Apply glue to both parts and clamp together. Add a little more glue to the crack. It will start setting up in about 15 minutes.

Let it harden for a full 24 hours. Any extra you added can be filed or sanded off if you don’t like the look. I used it on a plastic lawn chair and I weigh 250 lbs. and it didn’t come apart. Very strong tough stuff.

I highly recommend this product.

Great product, many uses, best price here. Small size has both advantages and disadvantages, but great for most smaller projects. Sands well, can be shaped when set. Easier to get into tight spots with static mixer than larger panel bond applicators.

When you patent a reusable static mixer, you’ve hit a gold mine.

I have used 3M Super Trim adhesive for years and found that it works well when used as directed. When applied to both surfaces and left for about 10 minutes, until it gets tacky, it grabs very well and holds.

It is important to be careful that the items being glued are positioned where you want them. Once the items are joined they do not separate easily, if the are bonded for any length of time it is more difficult to separate them.

In my opinion the 3M 08090 trim adhesive is the best to use for strength. I have used others, including 3M 08088 general trim adhesive, and they do not bond as strongly. The others are OK for light duty work or for bonding surfaces that are not subject to stress like flat laying carpet in the rear of a 2+2 mustang.

It is a bit expensive, however I find that not having to do a job twice or damaging something by using a less expensive adhesive makes the cost worth it.

The very first time I went to this store in Rocky Mount, Va. , the girl salesperson was SO rude that I swore id never go back there. That was 3 years ago! So, now its 2021, pretty much post-covid. I needed something and this is the only store nearby that had it in stocks.

I took a chance, ordered on-line (because I got a 20% discount doing it that way) and went into the store to pick it up. I was acknowledged immediately and treated well. All in all, my recent experience was wonderful.

I didn’t the rude employee that day and will definitely shop there in the future. The product i purchased worked very well, and I’m very happy 😊.

You MUST have the mixing nozzles and the applicator gun. No way around it! There’s two types of nozzles, one with square barrel and one with round. This requires the square nozzles. I bought off-brand nozzles, got 50 for $20.

Now, i use this stuff anytime i need a strong bond and don’t want to deal with waiting or even proper clamping. It is all set and very strong within 1 minute, though it won’t finish cross-link (the chemical reactions that occur which creates even more bonds on a molecular level and makes the stuff seem like steel) for 24 hours i believe.

Regardless, it’s the perfect product for gap-filling and quick jobs. Leave the used nozzle on and when you need to use it again, remove nozzle and insert fresh one.

Purchased this to repair the lower side skirt body mount. It did the job ok. It does set up fast. After the pieces (side skirt and mounts) were each sanded for application, I applied a reasonable amount of adhesive.

This was allowed to set up for the appropriate amount of time. Once that way dried and cured, the mounts needed a second round of adhesive to properly secure them. I would highly recommend very low grit sand paper, like 40 or 80 grit to create a proper adhesion.

Make sure you purchase the right application gun to apply the adhesive.

I use a few types of these dual cartridge 1:1 glues for different applications and this one is amazing for urethanes. It sets in about a minute, full cure in an hour, and retains slight flexibility sort of like hot-glue in feel.

Very few glues stick to urethane rubber at all and this one does. And plastic. As a special effects/creature/specialty costume artist I have found this to be a magic bullet for urethane rubber parts that can be used for on-set repair and stick to things nothing else does (without a gram scale and hours of cure time).

It is pricey and the tips add up but it is worth it!.

I use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive in many ways. Sticking gaskets in place when assembling an engine, Attaching magnets to the back of a note-pad to put a shopping list on my refrigerator, I even use it to make improvised books of computer motherboard manuals when I’m building a new computer.

( I stack all the pages neatly and put a little weight on them, then evenly apply Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to the left edge of the stack of pages, to act as a binding. ) Note: I hang the edge of the “book” that I’m gluing, over the edge of a counter so the glue doesn’t get on the counter-top.

Sometimes I put a little Super Weatherstrip Adhesive on a screwdriver tip, to keep a screw on it while I start the screw in a hard to get place.

I have a old 1981 Honda CBX1000 that has a plastic airbox with attached rubber inlets going to the carburetors. I used this to glue the two sides of the airbox back together as well as gluing in the rubber outlets to the plastic airbox.

This worked perfect and was extremely strong. I read that it was very messy however I was prepared. I first acted out how I’d apply it to both surfaces and join them together so that I don’t make a mess.

I wore gloves (they were still clean after this process) and I cleaned the surface very well with isopropyl alcohol so I get a good bond. This stuff is very stringy so when you pull away it will come with you like melted cheese.

The trick is to use a “tongue depressor” to pull away any excess when you reach the end of the run, this prevents it from going everywhere and keeps everything clean. I also worked on top of a cardboard box.

It turned out to be easy to use when prepared. Using a tongue depressor to pull away excess and to flatten it where needed is probably the best advice I could give.

Used this to attach the knee pads onto my motorcycle fuel tank that kept falling off. Factory adhesive would not hold for much more than a week before they started coming lose. It is important that you follow the directions exactly.

I did and it worked great for me. Clean both surfaces and then mark the area to be glued, apply a thin coat to both surfaces and let dry until tacky, and then press parts firmly together and hold for about 30 seconds.

Some excess adhesive may squeeze out but I was able to scrape it off with my fingernails without any problem. So be careful that you do not put on too thick a coat, easy to do since the stuff is thick.

Best to practice on a scrap sample first until you get the feel of it. I used a small acid brush to apply the adhesive and had to work quickly since the stuff dries quickly and it was a hot day. I used the 3M cleaner to remove the old adhesive first and then finished off by wiping down with isopropyl alcohol before starting the gluing process.

Bike has now been through a couple of 90+ degree days and the pads are still firmly attached.

For small jobs the retailer should have a rental/deposit gun for the consumer to use. A one use product shouldn’t have a expensive extra cost involved. It would be cost effective for it to come in a dispenser style.

More people would buy the product. Not everyone could make a dispenser like I did. A couple of dowel’s and a caulking gun worked for me. Maybe a adapter from the manufacture?.

used this to bond in some floor pans in my jeep and wow!!! this stuff is easy to work with clean up is great and the natural flow of the product was impressive with this being first time I used this product.

Texted it 24hrs after application and its permanent.

This stuff works great and even better if you heat it with a heat gun. It has a work time of 90 minutes so you have plenty of time to move the panel around for a perfect fit, it does require a special plunger for the application gun make sure you order the plunger when you order the adhesive it will have a smaller diameter circle on the right side !.

Pros: – In certain circumstances a great option vs welding Cons: – You need special guns that are expensive to get into, but are worth it if you keep using it This stuff is great, I see no point in welding things like rocker panels or floor pans.

This stuff replaces both the spot welds and the sealer used when you do spot welds. It really is great. Obviously you won’t be using it to weld thick metal or anything. But for thin stuff like body panels, it’s absolutely amazing.

The stuff can be messy to work with in some cases as excess is pushed out when the panels are clamped, but does what is advertised, holds metal panels together. I used it to glue a header panel in over the windshield of an old truck as well as some minor patch panels.

Seems to be holding well, after pulling the temporary fasteners used until the glue cured it’s just a matter of filling the small holes with more of the epoxy. I do suggest a user buy extra nozzles so the tube can be re-sealed and then another nozzle installed.

Use this product all the time. The price was great and shipping was fast. Will definitely purchase again.

Perfect for its intended use. Used it to attach a fiberglass kit to metal on a mustang and the material spreads easy with applicator (also available at Summit), and is true to what it says, have 90 minutes to work with, 4 hours and its set, not going to come off without some force.

Excellent product.

I’ve used plenty of 8115 and when the panels are properly prepared and there is not a lot of stress on the joint it works very well. Make sure you follow the instructions and it’ll work just fine. Summit has a great price and I always try to wrap it into another order to save shipping.

I bought this to stick an emblem on a car. The previous owner had debadged it. I was a little heavy handed and some adhesive smeared to the sides. To clean this up, I tried 3M’s adhesive remover to no-avail.

Later I was told by a customer service rep that this is permanent and the only way (possibly) would be to use a razor or sand it. This is completely unreasonable. Doing so would almost certainly damage the paint.

And getting the panel repainted would leave me with a 4 figure repair bill. Most such adhesives are able to be removed chemically. If this is such a strong adhesives it should be clearly stated or mentioned that it is only for professional use.

I would strongly discourage anyone from using this. 3M itself makes tape that is much more user friendly and less potentially damaging.

I bought this product to reattach emblems to my car. Long story short, it attached them to my car extremely well which is great because the product does what it is supposed to very well. However, my only complaint seems kind of silly but if you ever want to remove your emblems to paint them or just de-badge your car.

good luck getting them off. The reason I think this is an issue is because there isn’t really a need to make the glue so strong. The original adhesive tape (3M Molding Tape) that holds the emblems on lasted 14 years and it will actually come off your car if you ever need to remove it.

In conclusion, I can’t give this product a great review because there is no use for it on your car trim when 3M sells better adhesive tape for trim (3M Molding Tape). However, I can’t give it a bad review because it does exactly what its meant to do.

I print TPU filament and have found that there is not much out there that will bond it together. Just by luck I had a bit of this left over from sticking my dash together on my 1995 BMW 318i and I thought.

will it stick TPU and the answer is yes. Doesn’t quite dissolve the plastic, but it does eat into it enough that after 24 hours, the two pieces do not come apart at the seams. What is TPU. it’s Thermoplastic PolyUrethane.

Why only 4 stars. because I think that everything can be made better.

I scoured the internet to find an epoxy to fix a fresh water polyethylene tank leaking through couple of cracks around the outlet fitting. Everything I founds advised no glue or epoxy will stick to Poly-E so I contacted the RV dealer who said the same and a replacement would be $700.

I found this on another site and the description actually said good for poly E, however picture on this site does not state this. Luckily a previous reviewer on here confirmed it worked on his rv tank so I tried it.

I did a similar technique 1- partially removed the tank to get full view and access of the cracks. 2 – drilled small holes at the end of each crack line to prevent further spreading. 3 – Light sanding of the area (and around the fitting) with #80 grit paper enough so that the surface feels rough and gives epoxy something to stick to (sand a larger area than the cracks so you can epoxy a little further).

4 – wiped area and cleaned with ISOpropyl alcohol to make sure no fine particles remained. 5 – Applied a single consistent layer of epoxy over the entire area of cracks ~ 6″ x 6″ and encased the bottom of the fitting to ensure 1 consistent layer (1/2 of Tube in my case).

It is still tacky after 15 minutes so I let it cure for 24 hours sanded the first layer to rough it up, cleaned then applied the remaining half of the tube as a second layer. I let it cure for about a week then filled with 40 gallons of water and took the trailer on a easy 2 day trip, worked no problem.

I then waited a month and went on a 2 week trip hauling full tanks through extreme traffic (had to lock the brakes up on truck and trailer), bumpy roads, 40+ degree heat wave etc. and it has held so far.

JB Weld plastic bonder is incredible: fast (sets in 5 minutes, cures in an hour), easy to use and holds forever on flexible surfaces. Backed into an oddly placed pole in a parking lot some years back and broke the attachment point where metal screw mounted plastic bumper to our Nissan sedan.

$Hundreds to repair/ replace? Nope. JB Weld plastic bonder reformed the break point, over night set and screwed that baby back on the next day. Years later we sold the car and that ‘plastic weld’ was still holding just fine.

Around same time some knuckle head knocked off the cowling on my passenger side mirror on my parked MB C280, cracking the mounting ring. Ouch! Joined the broken ring with JB Weld Plastic epoxy and popped the cowling back in place next morning.

That was 6-8 years ago. Earlier this week a new klutz walked into the same repaired mirror, this time breaking off the bottom of the mounting section. Here we go again. JB Weld to rescue; ten minute repair, cowling goes back on tomorrow.

Great stuff for tough plastic parts. Strong bond that’s firm without being brittle.

The JB Weld Plastic Bonder worked great! It produced a really strong repair for some plastic fastener extensions that had broken off of an automotive seat plastic trim piece. I roughened the plastic pieces and spread the plastic bonder generously over the repair area, then tested the strength of the repair after it cured.

I’m happy to say that I’m confident the repaired pieces will be less prone to breaking off than they were originally.

This glue is awesome. but very dangerous in the hands of a little one. Super fast drying and hardens like a rock after adding additive. But be aware this will this weld your finger together in less than a second.

If not properly used.

BEST PRODUCT EVER. FORGET CRAZY GLUE OR GORILLA GLUE. THIS 3M IS SO STRONG

We were suckered into believing that this product would be a great choice for styrofoam board- you know the light styrofoam stuff? Well, it doesn’t hold it beyond ~24 hours. And when that foam falls it will take out everything in around it.

It will destroy hundreds of dollars with of material as it crashes down- despite coasting both surfaces well and allowing hours of bonding time. We began by testing a 1’ area- actually did weight testing to ensure the bond would hold far beyond what we needed- yanking and pulling the sample with body weight that would never be put on this ceiling insulation and within 30 minutes of adhesion could lift the entire roof by t test piece- not some that that would ever be necessary!.

$100 worth of adhesive, $60 worth of styrofoam board, and hours of effort were not the only loss- it caved in and destroyed the roof if was attached to, and that caused breakages of everything around it- after lasting a whopping 27 hours.

Not to mention the absolute crushing of the desire to even continue with a project we’ve spent so much time and money on. A project we were building a family bond through as stepparent and stepchildren Building something new together from broken pieces of what was left behind… way to oversell your product and do so much more harm than just to a pocket book we carefully budgeted to ensure we could see this project through.

I only hope that we can prevent anyone else from using to for the specifically promised purpose so that they too do not suffer the loss we have.

I have been using this adhesive for over a decade and I can tell you that it works hand down. All the bad reviews are from people not knowing how to prep the surface or how to use the product. The ONLY solvent that should be used to prep the surface is alcohol (100%), not Brake Kleen et al.

They leave a residue behind and that residue most times will break down the adhesive not allowing it to stick. This adhesive is a contact cement and by design it will stick to itself. It will only do this when it is no longer wet but it is still sticky.

Once it has lost it’s sticky it’s not going to work well if at all. This stuff dries fast so if needing to use it on a large area it is best to spray as you go if possible. Wax paper is your friend. If you are working with a fabric or headliner you want to spray both the backing panel and the back of the fabric.

again small areas and spray more as you go. Lay wax paper on top of the backing panel once the adhesive is no longer wet but is still sticky, ten lay your fabric on top to position it. roll back the fabric and remove some of the wax paper and then roll it back down smoothing as you go.

Headliner material is tricky to work with because of the foam backing. The trick is a little adhesive goes a long way. Very very very light amount as it will soak right through. This is the same really for most fabrics.

DO NOT apply a lot of pressure when working with headliner material ad you will brush the foam and indents will be visible in the headliner. The spray does not come out as a liquid or a mist. It comes out of the can like a spider web or “silly string”.

This is how it is supposed to come out of the can to provide the most amount of coverage. The closer the nozzle is to the surface the more liquid it will be. I find that 2. 5 feet to 3. 0 feet away from the surface to be sprayed is ideal in most use cases.

When working with metals making the surface rough is not as important as making sure there are no oils on the metal. Most metals are coated with oil to prevent them from rusting. If applying over chrome it is recommended to hit the surface with some steel wool.

This is because most chromes have some kind of a surface coating on them like wax that MUST be removed. Alcohol breaks down oil so use a liberal amount, wipe the piece down 3-4 times and then let dry for at least 30 minutes before spraying.

Ventilation ventilation ventilation, I cannot stress that enough. A vapor mask is not enough if used in an area that is not well ventilated The VOC’s will bother your eyes. Do yourself a HUGE favor and always put down wax paper under the item you are spraying.

As another review states this stuff is almost impossible to get off. Goo Gone does work but requires mechanical help in the form of scrubbing to get it off. So if you value something don’t spray near it.

Tape off areas with blue painters tape and plastic if needed. This adhesive is no joke when used properly. you have exactly one time to stick things together so plan ahead and get it right the first time.

When working with vinyl put a super light coat on and do a “test” wrap to get some practice with the stretching. Once you know how it needs to be done then use new vinyl and spray for a final attachment.

Remember this is a contact cement so both pieces need to be sprayed and both pieces need to dry so they aren’t wet but they are still tacky. Depending on temperature and humidity that can be anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes.

you might have another 5 minutes until the adhesive is fully dried and will no longer adhere properly. So not a long amount of “working” time. The final results are only going to be as good as the prep that is done and the time taken to adhere the 2 pieces together.

Ive been using 3M Super77 for 20+ years, never even once had an issue. Used to permanently bond hundreds of different materials-and when i say permanently, i bloody mean it! Its is like contact adhesive and its never dissolved ANY foams for me.

NOTE- for best results use common sense and good practice, and read the entire label, but in addition, remember the 7 P’s: Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents a P*ss-Poor Performance! In a well ventilated area, prepare a temporary “spray zone”, covered by taped-down card or paper, around the items you expect to bond-this zone will catch any overspray, which is a hard to remove, and attracts dust over time, giving you a carpet-like area of black crud.

(acetone will get rid of this, but why waste time with cleanup, when a few moments of forethought will obviate this step) Shake well, yes shake it good! Check visually that the spray button orifice isnt obstructed by previously dried adhesive.

Dont be lazy, a blocked nozzle WILL spatter the spray pattern. If it needs cleaning, pop it into a cup of turps or other thinner and agitate or leave for a few minutes until the dried glue is loose enough to remove.

Make sure spray button is replaced in the can aligned with the dot on the upper rim. This ensures the aerosol inner tube is well within the cans inner contents, even when near empty, also preventing intermittent spray delivery (spattered uneven glue blobs).

Correct distance to ensure even coat, 8-10 inches. The emerging flat fan spray pattern can be rotated 90 degrees, it is not a conical spray shape as car paint cans are, but can be adjusted to match your spraying direction (are you spraying from left to right, or up to down).

Test your material on a scrap before applying glue to parts, to ascertain whether what your’e sticking requires one or both of the parts to be sprayed, and whether a double coat is required on each side (obviously waiting 3-5 mins between coats), some absorbent surfaces like leather need 2 thin coats on each mating face, and allowed to dry to touch before bringing them together.

Bear in mind that because Super77 is freaking strong, its always better to put slightly more than you think is required, as separating underglued items to add more glue is next to baeucoup difficile, once dried.

After reading about auto panel and even frame assembly by high end car manufactures I decided to try it on replacing a floor panel and a fender splice. I read some poor reviews on this product, all I can say is they did something wrong! As with any type of tube dispensed product I warmed it up to about 68-70 degrees.

And per good shop practice and common sense I cleaned the bonding surfaces with a de-wax/greaser. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. After applying a 1/4″ to 3/8″ bead to both surfaces, then with a short bristle brush, brushed it out over the bond area.

I used Pop rivets to clamp the parts together as I did not what to get adhesive on my cleco’s. The adhesive flowed out very well with good squeez out, which wipes out easily. I got 144″ of bead from one tube, I have read others got less.

I think it was the warming of the tube and parts. Predrill all temporary attach clamp hole. I did add some holes “after bonding” without issue. Set up as instructions stated. Bottom line I love this stuff, if this process is good enough for Bentley its good enough for me.

My mig is getting dusty!.