20 Best Cases For Airflow (2022 Updated)

I bought this headset as a replacement for an old plantronics headset that I had owned for a couple years and this is what I thought: The memory foam at the top of the headset makes it really comfortable and the headset has different EQ levels which is another plus.

On the other hand though, I find that the ear cups can be a bit irritating with heating up your ears and the position of the Volume control sometimes had me on my toes when my chair made the volume go to max.

I’ve had this headset for a couple months now and immediately after only some weeks I found that the swivelling mic no longer can hang in the middle of the arc and will just fall back down. Back to the other features though, I saw that the battery can be a pain sometimes with it’s short capacity and even shorter capacity if you use the RGB lights with it, sometimes my headset hasn’t even charged for no reason and can even switch off abruptly when there’s still battery.

Another pro is the RGB that at the same time is a con because of it’s impact on the battery and makes you wonder why RGB on a wireless headset would be that good of an idea. Finally, as one last problem of mine, you can’t know how much battery you have without checking the app, or if not you have to listen to the voice assistant that (thank god) you can turn off.

That’s my thoughts on it, mostly negative but it has its moments and pros I’ve probably forgotten.

AIRFLOW: This case is honestly really amazing. It has a crazy amount of air flow (hence the name) without sacrificing the overall aesthetics of the case. I also like the fact that it has multiple mesh guards to catch any dust making it easy to clean the case and increase the performance and lifetime of your fans.

You get one front panel mesh guard that clips onto the case, another on the top that is secured by magnets, and one at the bottom that slides under the power supply unit (all of which are super easy to remove).

CABLE MANAGEMENT: Another thing that I really liked was the cable management. The case makes it super easy to organize your cables because it has nicely positioned cutouts to route them to the back panel.

On the back, you’ll find a contoured runway that lets you organize your cables and secure them with durable velcro straps (you also receive extra straps and zip ties in the box). On the back panel of the case, you’ll also find tie down points so you can secure more cables with zip ties if your cable runway is full (for me I had enough space in the runway and some more).

EXTRA FEATURES: The Corsair 4000D also has plastic easily removable hard drive trays and because they aren’t the generic metal trays, it cuts down on the cost/ of the case and reduces any noise from vibration.

It also comes with a tempered glass side panel and I find that because the thumbscrews holding the panel aren’t on the front of the physical glass but rather near the rear IO shield, you don’t get a bunch of finger prints on the glass and you don’t have thumbscrews popping out the side (it’s the little things that count and Corsair really did a good job designing this case).

On the front panel next to the power button you have a 3. 0USB port, headphone port, and a 3. 1 USB type C port. GPU PLACEMENT/BRACKET: The case also allows you to vertically and horizontally mount your GPU and you don’t need to break off the brackets to insert your GPU because they are secured with removable thumbscrews.

So essentially you can put them back in if you want, instead of having a gap (some cases from other brands require you to snap them off and once they’re off you can’t place them back on). CONCLUSION: Overall it’s an amazing case that has a beautiful design, is user friendly, and most importantly provides amazing airflow all for a decent price.

Many other reviews have already elaborated on this, but the 4000D Airflow can definitely be considered a benchmark for affordable but sturdy cases for modern systems. On the outside it’s simple and to the point with a nicely bright colour contrast on the USB port, top filter tag and panel thumbscrew washers.

Side and front panel fitting is effortless, employing a clever ball/socket fitting that feels robust enough to last the life of the case. The window is tinted enough to make any internal lighting really pop.

Inside there’s as much space as you’re likely to need for most modern ATX systems. It’ll fit a surprisingly long GPU before you encroach on front cooling room. Noteworthy is the cable management room behind the motherboard – I had zero issue routing cables to key components and the upper limit of four storage drives (2x 2.

5″, 2x <= 3. 5") while still keeping it relatively clean. If you really want to make it a showpiece there are plenty of tie-downs, a top to bottom cable channel, and velcro straps included. If I'm honest the only place the 4000D stumbles is it's own ambition to accommodate larger cooling solutions.

If you’re aiming to kit it out with 120mm / 240mm fans and radiators you’ll have a good time, but Corsair have specifically mention 140mm / 280mm support and this is a muddy area. You’re mileage will vary depending on the combination of motherboard, RAM and radiator that you’re trying to use.

In my case, the Arctic 280mm simply will not fit in the roof, fouling on both a Strix motherboard VRM heat sink, and RAM that isn’t even particularly tall. Fitting a 280mm radiator to the front is equally fiddly, but works; if you mount the fans toward the front, you may hit the PSU shroud, so fans on the inside allows the most wiggle room.

It’s a shame because everything else about the case is superb, but Corsair might have saved a little heartbreak by not advertising 280mm compatibility. If you’re looking for a compact and well-featured case for your next upgrade, this should definitely be on your shortlist.

This is the case I bought and used for my first PC build. It was a gaming oriented build with some RGB, and I liked the idea of a case that was compact yet compatible with a full sized ATX motherboard.

I used a Corsair 280mm AIO and a full sized ATX power supply. Both had some major clearance issues with this case. -AIO Clearance- The case is designed such that mounting an aio on the front is only possible using a configuration that damages the AIO in the long term: with the tubes connected to the radiator at the top of the case.

I heard the impact of this after about 5 months of use, when my AIO would gurgle as it struggled to replace the air at the top of the loop with water. A top mounted radiator would, perhaps, have been more optimal for my build.

As a new builder, however, it seems to have been an overlook by Corsair to include the correct radiator orientation in any manuals included. -PSU CLEARANCE- My power supply Corsair’s own RM850x, was a massive pain to get into the case’s shroud.

There is a small piece of metal that protrudes such that adding power cables or inserting the power supply becomes near-impossible without significant added force. As a beginner builder, which this case seems to be aimed towards, based on its ICUE features and overall simplicity, the struggle I faced in installing my PSU was unacceptable; almost a reason I might recommend against his case.

-RGB- This is clearly a gamer-focused case, and Corsair’s RGB software remains one of my favorites among the many lighting ecosystems. It is relatively intuitive, and has the best customization as far as lighting goes.

-AIRFLOW- Airflow has become an increasingly popular topic in the PC building realm, and this case was certainly ahead of most in terms of airflow in 2019, even up to now. Its front fans are largely unobstructed by the front panel thanks to the many perforations in the panel.

Theoretically, this case has great airflow. Thermals were good too, and neither the CPU (i9 9900k) nor GPU (EVGA 2080 Super) got anywhere near uncomfortable temps due to airflow issues. Overall, this case is a relatively plain, but effective component.

for an on-sale price of $90, the airflow and integrated Corsair RGB ecosystem may be worth shelling out for in order to build a strong starter system.

Very good case. Solid construction, great venting/air flow, and plenty of room, at least for a micro-ATX but ATX would have plenty also. First new case I’ve bought in awhile but was pleasantly surprised.

Easy cable routing on the side with easy access to pull the panel off with 2 thumbscrews. Easy to add SSD/HDs. Plenty of tie down areas for running your wires. Plenty of space in the PSU compartment with an dust filtered intake vent on the bottom.

Keep in mind it doesn’t come with exhaust fans so you’ll need to purchase those ahead of time. The lighting node core is nice but would rather have had the Command Core Pro For my rig, I had to buy a fan hub to power all the fans so had to wait a couple days for it to arrive as couldn’t find locally and Best Buy did not have one.

So if you are adding a lot of fans and your MB doesn’t have extra fan headers, do keep this in mind. The glass side feels solid. I would buy this again and recommend it but for $30 more having the Command Pro module would have been a nicer addition with what it does.

Good enough case overall. I got this to fit old computer parts in it and work as media PC for my living room TV. Love the look of the case and fits my need. The default position of 3. 5 HDD housing sits very close to the PSU, resulting no space at all for PSU cable.

The case allow moving the housing forward to open up space for PSU cable, but the lowest fan has to be remove to achieve that. So there is a dilemma of no fan for HDD, or no space for cable. To me, both case doesn’t make sense so I just give up my 3.

5 HDDs and remove the whole housing altogether, so I can keep the airflow and have room for PSU cable. The PWM cables from the fans are short, and there is no PWM splitter cable provided. I ended up buying one to get the fans working.

There is literally no chance to have all 3 fans connected without a splitter cable (seriously Corsair?) Final Verdict: If you don’t need any 3. 5 HDD in your system, this one will work for you (unless you don’t mind sitting the HDD in the display area).

Also make sure you get a PWM splitter cable when you buy this case.

I just completed a build using this case and it was quite honestly one of my worst experiences in a build I’ve had in a long time. My last build was for my son and I used the Corsair 4000D which is might and day compared to this case.

First of all its too crammed and hardly fits my 240 AIO with the MSI Z690 Carbon DDR 5 MOBO. Then the routing on the back side is nonexistent compared to other cases ive used. Then the little rubber holes to feed the cables through are cheap and fell off several times.

Then to make everything even more irritating I had to close up the case after the build was complete and it took me 30 minutes to get the back on since i have thicker power cables and it didnt like that.

Overall i would definitely look elsewhere as this case leaves a lot to be desired. I’ve used Phanteks, Lian Li, Thermaltake, and other Corsair but this is nowhere near the quality I expect from a company such as Corsair.

I had this old case that I loved, but I had it for about 10 years. Recently I updated to a 3080 ti but when I went to put it in, the old case didn’t cut it. I had to move a bunch of stuff around, the cable management was garbage on it, some of the filters were missing.

it lived a good life and provided me good service for a decade. I was out with a buddy and we were looking for some computer parts and I just by chance decided to peruse the cases. He pushed me to buying it and we went back to my house and did the move.

This is great case. Best cable management I have personally ever used. It had ample space for additional fans as well, so I did buy another. The directions were also really good when it came to how to route the cables.

Cleanest look I ever had in a computer case.

Very nice case. Lots of airflow and easy to cable manage. I was able to get both AIO liquid coolers for GPU and CPU mounted in the same case. Really like how all sides just pop off with no screws.

if you take an old Airflow 400D chassis, and add in the cost of the 3 x LL120 RGB fans, 6 x LS100 lighting strips, and a Commander Core XL, you soon realise the 5000T is actually not bad value for money – and it certainly looks better than it’s 4000D predecessor.

I paired this with an extra LL120 RGB fan for the rear, and a H150i Elite LCD AIO. All in black, this is a good looking and high performace chassis that is easy to work with.

Overall its a great case to build in and to look at when its completed. Would be nice to have QL 120s instead of the LL 120s it came with for the price of the case but still looks great.

I love it. Most of my biggest complaints are not exclusive to this case, more universal problems with hardware and software with RGB.

This is my first NZXT case and I’m not disappointed. The internal layout is great, with a basement for the PSU and SATA drives and a smart way to get cables from the back out to the motherboard. I didn’t test the included fans, but the case is much quieter with the same fans than the Cooler Master Masterbox Q300L I replaced, and the thermals are same or better.

And that brings me to why I switched: It’s easy to build in. It’s got the center stand-off peg to locate your motherboard. It comes with zip ties to work with the integrated cable management points. It was designed with definite cable paths for the most common and bulky cords off your PSU.

Case panels have thumbscrews, and get this: they’re captive. Hard to lose them. Good. Yes. I never again want a case that’s harder to work with. And when it’s on sale, this is a very competitive choice against a $50 “good enough” case even for the tightest budgets.

Your time and comfort are valuable. So why 4/5 stars? Mostly just nitpicks, but they add up. The stock fans are 3 pin fans, not 4-pin PWM, so common PWM-based fan controllers don’t work with them. This may not matter if your motherboard has a bunch of fan spots and good 3-pin voltage-based fan regulation, but not all boards do.

The front fan mounts have a good radiator mounting setup with a convenient removable mount plate, but the solid front panel means air comes from the side grills. These grills are plenty big, but overall, it seems like you have to mount your radiator NZXT’s way or not at all or else airflow through the rads will suffer.

If you use air cooling, the fans are set back from the front, which helps keep them from getting choked. I dunno, I like air cooling. I’m not sure what to make of this part of the case. Top of the case has 1x140mm or 120mm fan spot.

Rear is 120mm only. Front is 2x120mm only. Not the most flexible, but with good fans, it’s enough airflow and enough quiet. Many accessories do not have thumbscrews. Expansion slots could take a slim thumbscrew (I know, I put some in), but come with standard screws.

The hard drive mounting cage is all screws, all the time, and you have to unscrew it from the bottom panel of the case to put drives into it. There are SSD mounting spots, but these are just places in the case with 2.

5″ sized screw holes. Nothing is quick release or toolless when it comes to drives. Probably my biggest pet peeve. And last but not least: the USB-C front panel port has one of those USB 3. 2 connectors, USB Type E.

My motherboard doesn’t have one of those, and there was no adapter bundled, so the port is kind of useless. Additionally, the Type-A port uses the full old style 20-pin header, so there’s no straightforward way to use both ports e.

g. with an adapter, unless your motherboard has a Type E connector. You’d need a Y splitter or something, and those aren’t very common.

I have used this case before but this is an updated version with a USB 3. 1 Gen 2 Type C port on the top of the case. Old case had 2 regular USB ports. PAY ATTENTION! This is a problem if your motherboard does not support it.

Look for a motherboard that supports a USB 3. 1 GEN 2 socket. If you don’t then you will have a front panel USB Type A that works and a Type C that won’t (since it won’t be plugged in). There is a Key A cable that you need to plug into the motherboard.

You are looking for a motherboard with internal USB Type-E connector. See that first picture. If your board does not have one you will need either a PCI express card like this “Inateck PCIe to USB 3.

2 Gen 2 Card, with 20Gbps Bandwidth, Internal USB Type-E Port for Front Panel USB Type C, RedComets U24″ or if you have a second USB 3. 2 Gen 1 header on the motherboard you can buy a converter like this “USB Front Panel Adapter, JoyReken Vertical USB C Header Adapter, USB 3.

1 Type-E Key-A to USB 3. 0 20Pin Header Converter for Type C Motherboard”. This second option will limit your download speed to 5 GB/s since it is running through a Gen 1 port. It’s all a bit confusing but hopefully this helps someone.

If your plan is to slap together a system with CPU/GPU AIO Blocks, this case will probably suit your needs. However, I cannot recommend this case for custom loop cooling. Radiator mounting solutions are extremely limited in this case, you will struggle to mount anything more than a single 240mm radiator (280mm radiators are supposedly supported, but I’ve seen people have to cut the case to accommodate custom cooling radiators of that size).

The case is too short to accommodate a 120mm radiator from CORSAIR/EKWB (I’m not sure about other radiator brands) in the top/rear fan slots, as the borders of those radiators interfere with case features, or the motherboard.

This means that your total cooling capacity when doing custom loops is extremely limited – coupled with fairly poor airflow for a case in this price range you get poor temperatures for high-end systems compared to similarly priced cases.

I ended up keeping mine even though I couldn’t transfer my current system into it because my brother has a system with just a CPU AIO Cooler that will work fantastic in this case. The LianLi LANCOOL 205 appears to have better rad support and is a touch taller than this case so I’ll pick up one of those and see if that suits my needs a little better.

It feels like the poor custom loop support is a bit of a mishap considering this case is advertised as “liquid-cooling ready” It’s a shame I couldn’t use this case – it has a lot going for it. It looks incredible, cable management is super nice, and it even has more “luxury” features like a front panel connector breakout, USB-C FP Jack, etc.

I’m literally only writing this because every time i see it on Newegg i almost get triggered, but i had such a horrible time with this case I figured I’d write one. First things first: you get what you pay for.

The build quality is almost laughable with the ‘glass’ being plexiglass you’d see in a tonka truck and overall just a frail piece of kit. The second would be the claim that this case can can hold any type of AIO cooler at all.

The fact that they decided to RIVET in the top drive bay made it impossible to mount a 280mm AIO. And even further maddening was the fact that the holes in the front were mis machined making it impossible to mount my cooler in the front as well.

The third would be the front USB 3 connecter was so far out of spec, that removing it from my Z590 Unify actually ripped the port off of the motherboard. Tight. Fourth would be the pegs, and I know this is nitpicky but it did annoy me greatly – The pegs are slick plastic.

So if you have the case any wood, a desk, or anything not rubber it’s going to slide away from you as try to manipulate it in any way. Fifth – The drive bay. Why? Why does it have to be so obnoxious?? I literally spent an entire night until about 3-4 in the morning all the while essentially ruining my radiator, and the case, as I tried to make this work.

I’m definitely at fault with my frustration getting the better of me to the point where i actually took vice grips and bent the top drive by to get my radiator to fit finally. But, the next day ended up buying a Corsair case and haven’t looked back, Do not buy this case unless you enjoy wrestling with cheap Chinese plastic and metal all the while trying to fit otherwise standardized parts into non standardized places.

1/5, would not recommend.

I love this case, I was looking for something compact yet with enough space to fit lots of stuff without sacrificing much airflow. The Focus G is pretty much exactly what I was looking for. The options this case offers for cooling are pretty expandable.

It can hold an 280mm radiator, but I went with a dual tower for the CPU cooler. My PSU is rather compact, but not small form factor. However I was still able to mount a 120mm fan on the bottom of the case.

That bottom 120mm fan is an intake for my RTX 3070ti which idles at 32c. My CPU is an 5800x, which runs hot (when it boosts mainly). The case does a good job at allowing enough air to get inside, given that you use pressure optimized fans for intake.

Non pressurized fans will struggle to pull air into the case. It has sufficient options for storage media. While the case does support an ATX motherboard, I feel that its mostly optimized for a micro-sized motherboard or an itx sized motherboard.

The cable management will be a challenge as you shove more and more components into the case. A fully modular PSU is recommend with this case. Now for the one issue that almost made me regret getting this case (I love the Focus G now!).

I included pictures to further explain this specific issue regarding the front panel fans. The included fans in the Focus G are Fractal’s own Silent Series LL 120mm with white LEDs. Well I decided to switch out those fans because I wanted my build to have all Arctic pressure optimized fans.

The problem here are not Fractal’s included fans, but rather the front panel fan mounting design. The two front panel fans are secured with a proprietary screw that has a long shank and has a very short thread.

You can freely switch out the included fans with any other fans you desire. as long as they do not exceed 24mm of thickness. The black proprietary screws only support fans that are 24mm thick. My Arctic P140 are 27mm thick, impossible to mount my Arctic fans with these proprietary screws.

Additionally, the screw holes on the front panel are very small in diameter, so you would have to improvise with smaller screws, given that you have them. Well, that is exactly what I did. I had to use different screws and a long, thin screwdriver to successfully secure my Arctic P140;s into the front grill.

You probably won’t stumble into this issue if you plan to secure 120mm fans, given that most of them are 24-25mm thick. 140mm fans however, mostly exceed 25mm thickness, like the Arctic P140;s. Before buying 140mm for yourself, be sure to check their thickness.

If they exceed 25mm (which mostly do), be ready to improvise with different screws. Not impossible to mount thick 140mm fans into the Focus G’s front panel, but requires additional hardware and time.

This was my main issue for the Focus G. But other than that, I truly love my new PC, even if the case is considered “budget”. With proper cable routing, patience, and planning, you can make the Focus G hold a beast inside.

Overall, I like this case. It’s inexpensive, and if you’re really looking for inexpensive, this is the case to buy. It fits ATX mobos, has two external drive bays, which are hard to find in a case these days – great it you really do still want a CD/DVD/Blu-Ray drive and a USB/Card-Reader hub.

It also has a removal hard drive cage that fits two drives. It comes with two fans, has room for 3 more, and has plenty of holes for ventilation and cable routing. The colors are nice too. That said, the case if very tight.

It fits ATX mobos and smaller ones too, but for ATX boards, you are truly at the edge of what this case can handle. It really needs to be an inch taller and deeper to have room for the ATX, to fit a liquid cooler radiator top-mounted.

Even though the provided pamphlet shows that you can mount the radiator at the top, you really can’t. It would obstruct pins on the motherboard and the external drive bays. Radiators must be installed front-mounted, behind the built-in fans.

While this is a good case, the metal is thick-enough, but barely. The see-through side is polycarbonate plastic, and the front of the case, while removable (for example, to install a front-mounted radiator or external drives), is not a hinged door – you need to pull it with some force.

There is extra metal obstructing one of the external bays that you need to break off in order to use it, and there really should be a little more metal around the front fan assembly. The position of the top fan holes are too far forward, and should be moved back 1.

75 because otherwise the fans, if installed, would obstruct the top external drive bay. There are also headphone and mic ports on the top of the case, power & reset buttons, and a USB-2 and a USB-3 port.

Really though, both of these should have been the latest USB 3. 2 ports, which of course, are backward compatible with USB-3 and USB-2. Want to make my day? Put FOUR of them up there – there’s room for plenty more! So, like I said, it’s a good, inexpensive case, and with a few design tweaks, it could be much better.

If you don’t have hundreds to spend on a full tower, and don’t mind the design detail issues mentioned above, this case is a good buy.

This case is going to be used as my first PC bouild. Being pretty young as a sophomore and not getting paid much due to labor laws has made it pretty hard to get parts that are cheap and high quality.

This case was a pretty good investment I’ve made and I hope once I get every installed such as the motherboard and other parts that it works fine. I liked this case alot because I’m personally not a huge fan of RGB and rather stick to one soild color.

This case allows me to do so because it doesn’t have RGB built in were you have to use it and this case gives you the option too chose what you want. Also the packaging was amazing and it wasn’t damaged at all which I’m grateful for because it did take awhile too ship but shipping is the least if my concerns especially when it’s free.

Dust filters are easy too remove and the case looked pretty clean and the glass wasn’t scratched or scuffed at all. Also the cable management was pretty good and I also appreciated that they shipped some zip ties along with the screws and Manuel that came with the case.

I highly recommend this to people who are just starting to bouild PCs. Also the case wasn’t Overly massive and is very light weight,so it’s easy to move around and work with. Thanks alot!.

I was looking for a new case that would provide better airflow for my Noctua based build. This case is surprisingly good for the price. I have been using it for 2 weeks. PROS: * can easily mount 2x 120mm/140mm fans at the front * fits 160mm tall CPU cooler (NH-D15S) * enough space for most GPUs * top magnetic dust filter is well positioned to allow passive cooling from the CPU cooler * cable management solution is reasonably good * separate compartment for PSU and 3.

5″ HDDs * tempered glass panel looks cool CONS: * the metal material is slightly thinner than average.

Phanteks continues to impress me! This is the 2nd case ive bought from them (the other was as P500A High Airflow) and i doubt it will be the last! Bought this one for my youngest son’s first gaming pc build and couldn’t be much happier with it.

He’s only 10 but with me watching over him he put everything together himself and i think this case definitely made it easier for him. It’s very easy to work in despite not being a huge case by any means, and gives you plenty of options for cable management which helps make for a nice clean build.

It only comes with 1 fan stock so i would recommend adding at least 2 in front for intake just to help keep things cool. Overall id recommend this case to anyone. Phanteks makes some great cases and they certainly didn’t disappoint here!.

My previous case proved to not be the best set-up for what I wanted. That said, I still wanted a mid-size tower or smaller because I’m not a fan of full tower set-ups. They’re just too big and waste space.

This case was really not much bigger than my old one, but its layout and configuration are superb. It has space for three SSDs to be mounted to the panel behind the motherboard shield. It also has multiple HDD bays underneath the main area.

The cable management set-up is awesome and I finally have a clean cable set-up in my visible part of my case for the first time ever. Combine this case with some be quiet! fans for the quietest, coldest computer set-up ever.

I swear, this thing runs quieter under load than a MacBook and this has 4 system fans. Also, the fractal design on the front is pretty neat. Top I/O is great, though I wish there was an extra USB port or two.

The tempered glass being tinted is EXCELLENT. I hate being blinded by a bunch of lights running off of stuff (and I’ve tried my best to avoid RGB anything) so having the extra tint really makes my PC blend into the environment, and that’s what I want.

Beautiful touch – the top mesh for the fan set-up is magnetic, and can be easily pulled off of the top of the case for quick and easy dusting. All-in-all, awesome case.

Came from a “IN WIN 303 Mid Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case” I was using since 2017, which is a larger case than this, but I feel like the Meshify left me with a much cleaner build. Could be because the powersupply is tucked into the bottom and not visible combined with using a SeaSonic which doesn’t require all cables to be attached at the same time, but I appreciate what this case allowed me to do.

Right or wrong, I generally leave the side-panels off (as I did with the IN WIN) and this still looks much cleaner than I was able to do prior. My only concern is if I can fit a 3-fan RTX30XX card in here at some point.

I think the case itself can accomodate it, but I’m not sure I’ll be able to do so w/o [re]moving the intake fan which the case provides (2 fans are provided). Not a deal-breaker, but it does concern me.

Might be the BT header placement on the Z690 board is in a non-standard spot? Also, the front-panel bluetooth header connecter is cable-tied in a weird spot so that to feed it in from the back it basically comes up and around the back of my RTX2070 Super.

Not currently a problem, but it does concern me if I can get my hands on an RTX30XX card (for a decent price) which will be longer. I feel pretty confident I can cut a cable tie and either move the BT header cable somewhere else, or just not use it since I don’t use front panel ports much.

It has been over a decade since I had a new PC case, so it was definitely time to upgrade. After doing a decent amount of research I settled on the 011 Air mini. It is is a fantastic case to build on, and feels like it will last.

Even with the side and top panels removed and much of the rear modular grid, the frame is very sturdy. The “dual chamber design” means that the power supply has a bit of a thermal shield from the motherboard and other components (aside from drives) and has lots of room to vent (remember to place the fan grille facing out!).

If you do not have a modular power supply you’ll still be wrangling a lot of cables but there is enough space in the power supply/hard drive area to facilitate hiding those unsightly cables. Biggest complaint is the ability to access the expansion slot screws: unless you have a very narrow screwdriver you’ll be fighting with the metal around those screws to loosen and tighten them -and unlike the thumb screws they feel slightly over-tightened.

If you have the white version, it is very easy to scratch the finish as you remove and replace screws so go slowly and be cautious. Lian Li included all of the extra screws you could need for your build, as well as soft mounting pads for the hard drives.

The modular expansion ports as well as removable drive caddie mean that you can do a lot with this very compact case. Highly recommended with a few important caveats.

A quality, mid-priced and easy case. It’s made well and has plenty of ventilation. If you are looking for a minimalist/basic/practical case that doesn’t have 384 different RGB elements but that’s also of a good quality and design, you can’t go wrong here.

And just in case you do have a lot of lighting and hardware to show off, the side is transparent tempered glass but slightly opaque and darkened. The yellow accents are pretty cool and the screws and mating points throughout the case are well made and fit together well.

Definitely among the best cases I’ve used in terms of build quality. Only slight issue is that if you have a long PSU then you’ll have a hard time installing and removing 3. 5 in HDDs because the cordage from your PSU will be rubbing right against the drive cage.

You have to disconnect the PSU, all of the cords, and then remove the cage. Very minor issue but something to consider. Regular sized PSUs seem unaffected by this issue. And I only use my old mechanical drives for storage and backup so if you are an SSD only user then there should be no issue there at all.

If you don’t want or need a fancy case then this is a great option. You do not sacrifice any quality or usability here. Take that money you save and get a better CPU/GPU etc.

Overall, I’m very pleased with this case and would recommend buying it if you want the freedom to buy the fans you want and like the look of the case. I bought the black one for a minimalist look but the white version stands out and looks amazing.

The 4000D comes in an Airflow version (this one) and another version with a solid front face. Avoid the one with the solid front face and make sure to buy the Airflow version. The other version severely restricts airflow from the front fans making it worthless.

IMO, airflow is the single most important factor in deciding on a case and this case performs great. Pros: -Looks great -Airflow comparable to other top performers -Lots of options for different fans -Includes a 3.

2 Type-C USB on the front panel -Excellent cable management (includes Velcro straps) Cons: -Optional vertical GPU riser (changes orientation) restricts airflow to GPU; do not buy!! -Only one 3. 1 Type-A USB on the front panel -No RGB fans (this is also a pro since you aren’t paying extra the added expense) The 4000D Airflow (this case) come with two black stock fans.

For whatever reason, Corsair doesn’t sell this fan separately (RWF0049), so you just can’t fill your remaining fan slots with the exact same fan. The case fits a 240mm AIO radiator top mounted (recommended) and two additional intake fans in the front.

In that configuration, make sure the fans on the radiator exhaust from the case. If you’re on a budget, this case would also look good with a black Hyper 212 instead of an AIO and four more black fans (two intake on top, two more intake in front).

The Hyper 212 route would be considerably cheaper and still run cool, so if you’re on a budget, that’s a fantastic option. If you want lights, the RGB landscape feels super confusing right now given everyone offers their own RGB controller.

If you want RGB, my recommendation here is to look at what your motherboard manufacturer supports and just use your built-in controller. Most mobo also have at least one ARGB connection that you can be split, so it should be safe to buy any ARGB constable fan.

There is also another version (4000X) which comes with three iCUE RGB fans instead of two black sock fans for about another $40-$50. Importantly, the iCUE fans are incompatible with ARGB. If you plan on using the Corsair iCUE RGB controller, then this is a good deal BUT be aware that any other RGB fans or components that you buy will also need to be iCUE RGB and that you’d be using that controller instead of the mobo.

These are considerably more expensive fans and you’ll need to install additional iCUE software to control the lighting. At the time that I bought this case (Jan 2020), no comparable case in this price range has a 3.

2 Type-C USB and more than one Type-A USB on the front panel. So while I’ve listed this as a Con, it’s not like you’re going to find a different case for a similar price with more than one Type-A on the front panel.

If your on the fence about this case it is 100% the best case ive owned. Especially if your upgrading from nzxt platform. Ive always found the NzXT cases lacking good airflow. But this case offers pretty good airflow, and wide customization for pc builds.

Case is sleek, cable management is improved, fan and radiator support is also really good on this case. My temps dramatically dropped from my h510 elite to my new H7 Flow case. Case is also really easy to build in.

Highly redommend, and im very happy with my decision to upgrade. Only con for me is that there isnt a decent way to mount a RGB/fan controller in the case. Still working on a way to properly secure it to the chassis.

But besides that, im impressed so far.

I believe the NZXT H7 Flow is one of the best PC cases. It has great cable management in the back of it, which is especially great for beginners. Its all metal design makes it really sturdy. The glass on the left side makes the RGB pop; however, it is a HUGE fingerprint magnet.

I will say that the tinting of the glass makes the inside look good with or without RGB no matter what. The PSU slot underneath hides the usually ugly looking PSU. One last thing, the perforated holes on the front, back, and top provide EXCELLENT airflow.

This is overall a great product; would recommend.

This is a pretty good case for the money. Well made, mostly; there’s a few sharp edges on some of the pressed metal parts but you’re unlikely to lose any fingers. The fans aren’t great if you’re looking for silence as they have a slight ticking even though they’re not PWM.

Let’s be fair though, three high-quality fans would probably cost you the majority of the price of this case anyway. The main issue I had was that it is claimed there is room for a 240 rad in the roof.

Well, there are mounts for it and a nice magnetic filter but there’s not really the space. Mount a 240 at the back and it hits the I/O shield on an Asus X570 TUF Gaming board – the plastic part. Mount it at the front and it hits the cabling coming out the front panel.

You could remove the plastic I/O shield but you’re still not going to be able to plug cables in at the top of the motherboard after the rad’s in and you’re definitely not going to be able to get RAM in or out once that rad’s in – taller stuff may hit the fans.

You can move the rad to the front and put the front fans in the roof. Don’t get me wrong, this is a very good case for the money but if you’re planning to put a rad in the roof with ease and still have space to get at things, you’re going to be frustrated.

(There’s a chance this review is going to get attached to another item so just in case. this review is about the Corsair 275r *Airflow*) This was an awesome case to work in and made the build go very smooth and I would do this case again.

If you go forward with this case and plan on replacing the fans with RGB fans, make sure you get some good *static pressure* fans at the front. There’s a considerable distance between the front fans and where an air cooler/radiator would be and a long distance between the middle fan and where your GPU might be.

The front-bottom fan has to push air through the drive cage, your stash of cables, the PSU itself and then up the vent over the PSU (the PSU’s fan is mounted down). If you have drives in the drive cage, the bottom fan can probably remain just an airflow, but if you have no drives there or take the cage out completely, make that a static pressure one too.

I replaced the stock fans with some RGB high airflow fans and while my components (5800x, 6800 xt) held decent temperatures they were still higher than when they were in some other cases. I am very certain though that if I had used static pressure fans on the front my temps would have been significantly better!.

This was my first time building a PC and this case made it really easy, with one exception. The 2. 5″ trays for SATA SSD’s are too small. I spent a good while trying to fit my 860 EVO into them and only succeeded in significantly bending one of them.

Ended up just fitting it to one of the 3. 5″ trays. Works for now, but limits my storage options going forward. It’s also worth noting that it doesn’t quite have the height clearance for some of the beefier CPU air coolers on the market, so make sure you check the dimensions if you’re planning to install a vertically mounted cooler with a big heatsink.

Or you could use water cooling. Aside from those minor issues this is a great case. It has thumb screws to remove both panels, all the motherboard standoffs I needed for my ATX board were already fitted, it has plenty of options for cable management, it looks great, it feels solid, and it has plenty of space to work in.

So far, I’m very pleased with this Be Quiet! case. As the name implies, it’s pretty silent. I’m running it with the mesh options and not the sound-insulated panels, and it’s quieter than my last case which was sealed up tight with sound-insulating foam.

Low fan speeds and good airflow definitely make for a better solution than higher fan speeds and insulation. Build quality is good, although I’d have preferred that Be Quiet! sacrifice some of the drive bays to allow the cable pass-through holes to be moved forward.

My board is large enough to cover the rubber-dressed pass throughs, so they’re useless to me. Those with smaller motherboards won’t have trouble. My biggest complaint is the space available for cable management.

An extra half-inch behind the motherboard would have made all of the difference. As it is, it’s pretty tight. More loops for tying cable would be appreciated, as well. All-in-all, it’s a good case that I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend to anyone except those that have an abnormally large amount of components to install.

I bought this case to house a high-end game audio design/dev rig with a 5900x and 3070ti. I needed a mix of power and silence, so Be Quiet seemed like a natural choice, and reviews seemed to agree that this case was excellent for that.

In terms of actual build quality and ease to work in, this case is fantastic, best I’ve ever used. What the reviews *don’t* mention is that, even with high-end fans (using Noctua NF-A14 as the front intakes in my build), there is an audible hum at certain fan RPMs.

The airflow through the case is very quiet, but when air passes through the front vents, due to the way they are designed, they generate a humming tone around 200hz (like blowing air over an open glass bottle) that is significantly louder than the noise of the air or fans themselves.

This is a glaring issue with an otherwise great case, as it seriously impedes this case’s ability to actually *be* quiet, since pure tones are much harder to ignore than air noise. I would recommend this case only if this is not as much of a problem for you as it is for me.

I bought this case a couple of months ago to house a new PC build. I’m very happy with it and can’t fault it so far. Build quality is great, this this feels incredibly sturdy and well-made – I certainly have peace of mind knowing my components are well protected.

It’s spacious enough to easily fit my 3-fan 3060ti. Everything fits together snugly and feels premium. It’s easy to use with good quality of life features. Removing the sides is a breeze, you just slide a button at the back to unlock the panel which then lifts out – so much better than the days of thumb screws! Supposedly you can even invert the layout of the case to have the window on the other side but I haven’t had the guts to try this personally.

Noise levels are also very low as advertised, with a handy switch on the top to toggle between the fan speed settings, which I leave on auto. During normal usage it’s hardly even audible, and I’ve never really noticed the noise of fans even when it’s under load.

Highly recommended if you want a tough, great quality, thoughtfully made case with a more restrained design free of RGB lights etc.

It is a good case to work in. It’s nicely assembled and I didn’t cut myself on any sharp edges. One surprise is there’s only a USB connector and a power button connector for the front panel. There is no reset, power on light or hd activity light on this case.

There is a connector for controlling the RGB but that is prewired. The included hub for the fans and RGB is OK. It’s not in the greatest location and cleaning up the wiring going into and around the hub is a little difficult but doable.

I do see too much of my wiring through the cutouts so I’ve ordered more ties to hopefully clean that up a little more. The case could also use a few more tie down points. The RGB illumination in the fans is fairly subtle and they seem to move enough air.

There is positive pressure in the case. I can feel the air moving out of the top vent of the case. The RGB controller on the front panel is nice to have but it is easy to confuse with the power button.

I wish the power button was easier to differentiate by feel. Now for my biggest issue: I got this case along with an ASUS X570 ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero and an NZXT Kraken Z63 280mm RGB CPU Water Cooling Kit.

I assumed the 280mm radiator would fit this case because the Lian Li literature said it could take 280mm radiators. It didn’t fit. Well. I did get the radiator and fans in the top position, but the fans literally touched the motherboard and I was unable to plug in the cables for CPU power at the top of the MB.

The fans completely blocked the clips on the plug from being able to slide into place. I also tried the front position but that wasn’t even close. The fans hit the bump out for the wiring. There was a 1/2″ overlap.

I do believe the 240mm would have fit in either location but I wanted the larger radiator for my Ryzen 9 5900x. If the case was 1/4″ to 1/2″ taller I would have been able to make it work. In the end I went with the black Noctua NH-U12S with the Noctua heatsink cover.

The Noctua fit with some decent clearance without the cover. With the cover, there is maybe 1/2 mm to 1 mm between the cover and the glass. It juuust fits. But it does fit. Idle temps are slightly better with the Noctua (40*C vs 43*C for the Kraken).

Stressed temps are about the same in the Low to mid 60’s for each. No loss other than aesthetics. Although this is not an apples-to-apples comparison. I had to do the Kraken testing with the radiator out of the case and with the side cover off.

Would I get this case again. Probably not. I think I would go for the NZXT H510 Flow that just came out. The 205 Mesh is good case but it just didn’t meet my expectations.

Pros: -RGB lights look nice. -All metal case, except for the glass panel Cons: -User guide (different from the manual), screws, cable ties, and other parts were hidden in the case. Being a first time builder, I initially thought they were missing.

After taking a guess on how to open the back of the case, I found the parts tucked away in the HDD/SSD racks. -User manual is very poor for someone who is working on their first build. a) Did not list a screw that needs to be removed in order to take off the PSU cover.

b) Did not state that 2 extra screws and an additional piece had to be removed in order to allow components to be installed in the rear expansion slots. I almost scratched my motherboard while trying to install my GPU.

-Found answers to 2 questions in the comments of a youtube video that should have been listed in the User manual. a) The cable that connects to the power slot is only a 2-pin connector. I was looking for a 10-pin cable as described in my motherboard manual.

b) The Manual did not list which slot was to go on the positive or negative motherboard pins. -Motherboard barely fit behind the rear fan. -Support piece at the bottom should come pre-installed. -I wish there were 2 more USB ports on the front (only has 2).

-The top dust filter slides off very easily. Don’t put pressure on it when trying to move the case or you will move the filter instead. -Cable management holes are really big. They don’t allow for detailed cable placement.

PROS: – Looks awesome – Lightweight – Large enough to fit everything I wanted, small enough to fit on my desk – Magnetic dust filters do more than I expected – Removable fan brackets are awesome – Small slots on the back of the case where I can zip tie cables to the case are in good spots CONS: – It’s borderline required to remove the HDD tray in order to properly manage cables.

This means you only have space for two SSDs and no HDDs – Lian-Li loves to make the hole to pull 12V ATX/EPS cables through as frustratingly difficult as possible. It’s small. It’s in a hard to reach place.

I hate it. They did this with the PC-K58 I bought over a decade ago, and they did it again with the 205 I want to 5 Star the 205, but I can’t. It’s still a great case and I would still recommend it. I plan on buying a second 205 for another build I have, but they’ve been sold out of the black ones for the last 3 months.

I WOULD NOT recommend this case! After taking it out of the box and seeing the shoddy workmanship, I immediately asked for a refund from Newegg. I’ve owned many Antec cases in my 30+ years of building and repairing PCs and loved them! They were well engineered and didn’t come with cheap hardware and screws like this case does.

Shame on you Antec! You used to be much better than this! You should know better than to market such a piece of garbage such like this! Your engineers should be fired! I would have rated this case zero eggs.

, but unfortunately, that was not an option.

I would recommend this case to a friend. In fact I took pics and showed coworkers my build. They were impressed with the clean look of the cabling, and RGB fans that came included. Great price, with the items included and the fan hub.

No issues with connecting the fan hub to my Asus z590 Tuf Gaming Mobo. Mobo fit in the case with no issues, and included hardware made my mobo install easy. Stand offs were pre-installed. Case & fans keep my Intel i5 11600K, at 27 degrees at boot and web browsing.

Hoping to get a better & bigger GPU in the near future!.

I ended up replacing all fans with Lian Li AL120s except the front 3, put the Nzxt x73 there, so can’t comment on quality of preinstalled fans. The ARGB hub that hooks to the LED button at the top can be removed freeing up more space for cables inside the back panel.

Overall a great little case and highly recommended. I blame the 3080 being so darn big for the PCIE power cables at the front, had to run them through the front opening behind the radiator.