I used the Detour Gel as part of an integrated program that I created to resolve a decades-long mouse infestation in a mountain cabin at a cow camp. Detour Gel has the same active ingredient as bear and pepper spray, but at lower concentrations.
It does sting if it gets on the skin, so I assume it would bother a mouse or rat pretty significantly. It is food grade, EPA approved and FDA approved. The house is a 70 year old log cabin that has had decades of neglect.
The logs and chinking have dried out, leaving many entrances for the mice to come in. It is only used a few months during the summer, giving the mice ample opportunity to take over during the winter.
Each summer, someone would bring up a big bucket of poison bait and toss it all over, including under the cabin, but the mice were reproducing too fast to have much of a difference. The classic rebound effect.
It was so bad that no one wanted to go up there anymore. The bait and trap solution was clearly not working. Until I found all the entrances and drove them out and sealed them up, there would always be a problem.
I wanted a solution that would allow me to a) drive all the mice out; b) identify and seal up all entrances; c) create a “permanent” solution; and d) reclaim the cabin for human habitation. People told me it was impossible to get all mice out of an old house like that because there were so many cracks that we can’t detect that the mice can.
But I was undaunted. My first step was to use rodent tracking powder to find the entrances, where the mice were going once inside, and where they might have nests inside. I discovered about 40 nests inside the living areas – more in the crawl space and attic.
The second step was Detour Gel. I didn’t want to remove a mother and leave behind a nest of babies to die and decay someplace I could not detect or reach and create a smell. I also didn’t see the need to kill them, just move them out into nature.
I hoped the Detour Gel would create a strong enough deterrent that they would choose to move out of the building, but not such a strong deterrent that they would not go back inside to grab their babies and depart.
I don’t know if that strategy worked or not in terms of them bringing their babies with them when they left, but I didn’t find any evidence – physical or odor-wise — of babies left behind. The third step was to seal off the entrances.
Then repeat until there is no more evidence of mice coming into new entrances. More specifically, this was my process and how I used the Detour Gel: 1) When I first put down the rodent tracking powder, I discovered tracks leading to a crack in the corner of the living room where the fireplace met the wall, in the opposite corner, in the bathroom, and in one of the two bedrooms.
2) I used a cheap sponge paintbrush to “paint” Detour Gel around each crack/gap/hole so that the mice would need to come into contact with the gel to get in or out of the hole. 3) I used some cheap floor tiles from a home improvement store to draw a 2 inch by 6-inch rectangle on the edge of one side of each floor tile.
If I were trying to get rid of rats, it would be about 3 or 4 inches by 12 inches according to Rentokil, which is a large pest control operator that private-labels this product. I assume Rentokil suggests the rectangle because once the rat or mouse runs across the gel and is inside, they have to run across one more line to get out, so they get a double dose.
The company recommends a zig-zag. I assume either would work. 4) I placed a number of these floor tiles all along the wall where the tracking powder indicated the mice were running. If the tracking powder indicated they were not running near the wall, I placed the gel-covered tile over the path identified by the tracking powder.
These were placed about every 10 feet, although Rentokil recommends 5 feet for mice and 10 feet for rats. I didn’t have enough product for every 5 feet because I was placing it around a 900 square foot cabin.
5) I found rodent tracking powder leading into the back of a vintage propane fridge, some recliner chairs, the back of the stove, the kitchen cabinets, box springs and mattresses, and some other places, indicating nests.
In order to get them to vacate the nests, I ran double circles around the base of the fridge and chairs and vacuumed up the nests in the cabinets, painted the back of the stove with gel, etc. I wanted to make sure the mice would have to come into contact with the gel if they wanted to return to their nests.
6) Leave it for a few days then seal up the entrances. Rentokil states you will see enhanced activity for the next few days. What they do is put traps down, but I didn’t want to risk killing a mother mouse and leaving her babies behind.
7) Put more rodent tracking powder down to find out the new entrances. 8) Pick up the floor tiles with the Detour Gel as appropriate and move them to be in the path identified by the new tracking powder trails and paint more Detour Gel on the entrance.
Where you think it is appropriate, you can even use the Detour Gel to seal up an entrance. But a mouse will not leave through a completely sealed entrance and I knew they were living inside and I did not want to entomb any if I could help it.
Detour Gel will also only last a certain period of time if the entrance is a non-porous surface. It can last over 5 years if inside on a porous surface. 9) Wait a few days to retrain them so that they understand coming into your space from this point forward is going to be an unpleasant experience.
10) Use a permanent seal to seal up the new entrances you discovered. 11) Put down more tracking powder and repeat until the tracking powder shows either a) no new activity, meaning they are all gone or b) the tracking powder shows them going to a nest inside the house, but not to any new entrances.
If a, you are done, son! At least for now. You need to stay on alert, because if they are aggressive, they will search the outside of the house looking for new entrances. So keep the tracking powder down to alert you to any new breaches of your fortress so you can get on top of it and nip that problem in the bud! 12) If the tracking powder shows them going to a nest inside the house but all entrances are blocked, then the remaining mice are probably entombed and you don’t want them dying in there.
This happened to me in the crawl space at the end. In this case, I put down a humane aluminum Live Catch trap with some nuts and seeds, trapped the remaining mice, and re-homed them a few miles away in nature.
It took me about 3 or 4 days to catch the remaining 11 mice – all of whom were now in the crawl space and not in the living areas — and rehome them. I might have been able to get all of them out without entombing them if I had paid more attention to the crawl space at the beginning.
Through this process, I found and sealed over 20 entrances into the crawl space, 14 into the living areas, and found over 40 nests in the living areas alone. There were many more in the crawl space below and the attic above.
I did find that they would look for ways around the gel. If I saw tracks in the gel, I never saw the second set of tracks, leading me to believe that it only took one crossing to convince them not to go near it.
There were times when I scraped used gel off of sealed-up entrances and reused it on newly discovered entrances because I was low on product and it was more economical. If you have a place where you cannot physically exclude them due to time, money, materials, labor or just the physical space, if you can create a gel barrier that they have to cross, you can create an effective block that they won’t cross that will protect your space.
If you have a porous material, like cement or wood, the product is good for a couple of weeks before it will dry out as the mineral oil seeps into the porous material. What you can do is paint some silicone caulk on the surface, let it dry for 30 minutes, then paint or spread some of the gel on top of the silicon.
I recently discovered I could have used silicone spray. That would have sped the process up for me and I could have done more permanent/5 year plus exclusion in the crawl space. Because when it’s on a non-porous material, like a floor tile or metal or silicone, it can last over 5 years in an indoor setting.
You can do this on places they like to travel, like support beams. You can also paint it on electrical wiring so they won’t chew, or plumbing pipes. One final comment on exclusion: they can smell-through and will push steel wool, copper mesh, and similar products out of the way.
They can smell through and chew through any expanding foam, including the ones for “pests. ” One solution is to use silicon caulk that they can’t smell through and copper mesh, which they don’t want to chew through and use the combination to fill cracks.
This will “glue” the copper mesh etc into place so they can’t push it out of the way. Is my problem solved forever? Until I can refinish the outside of the cabin and rechink it, my guess is they may find some extra vulnerabilities.
But with this solution, the game is now handicapped in my favor to find entrances quickly, drive them out and exclude. The cabin has officially been reclaimed for human habitation. Good luck!.