20 Best Cement For Crafts (2022 Updated)

The product arrived within a couple of days. I needed the Rockite to add mass to an oddly shaped cavity in a project I was working on. The Rockite mixed easily, was able to fill the odd shapes & set up in the advertised time.

It solved the problem. I can’t vouch for its ability to hold bolts but think, based on my usage, it probably would work well. The hardened stuff is tough.

This worked great for me! I just needed enough to hold a yard ornament in place so I didn’t want a large bag of concrete laying around. Hardened fast so I was able to get my project done fast.

Used this cement at VBS with Middle School Students. I bought two tubs with hopes that would be enough for 20-25 students. We ran out so I had to purchase pre-mixed grout from a local craft store that was triple the price and awful! I suggest buying more than you think you need.

It worked well in our mosaic cross craft, which you can also find on this website.

We used this cement for the “TRIVET 6IN SQUARE BLACK PK12” item (#INTTT734). It was good in the beginning, dried quickly and was easy clean up, but after it dried – the cement didn’t stick to the fiberboard insert, all the mosaic stones cracked and came out with the cement.

As a crafter I was looking for a product to use in making stained glass coasters. This product works perfectly. It hardens enough to remove from the mold in a couple of hours, so am able to make several in a day.

I’m able to get 8 to 10 projects from the 2 container so it’s also economical.

I use Barge cement with all my leather glueing needs, it’s the best I’ve ever used! I recently used it to glue down rubber “no slip” shower stickers. The adhesive on the “peel and stick” tub stickers was so bad that they wouldn’t last 2-4 weeks without coming off.

The last ones with Barge cement are still in place after 6 weeks! Great product!!.

This is the exact thing I was wanting, however, while hte product is of great quaility materials, the teflon top and the metal base do not join together. The teflon top just sits on hte metal base and it is easy to knock the top off and spill glue.

If the top could somehow be securely fastened to the base then this would be perfect.

For putting new rubber on a pool table, this is absolutely the best glue. Not only does it bond very well and last a long time, but also at the end of life of the rubber this glue will release from the wood without ruining it unlike other contact cement on the market.

No other product comes even close for this application.

I do printmaking in sizes from 4×6 to 6×12. For this I use a variety of papers from Speedball block printing, Japanese papers especially mulberry bark as well as cotton rag and other fiber mixes from a variety of manufacturers in europe and the US.

I use mostly embossing powder but also a variety of inks both water and oil based as the media that I press into the paper substrate. I have been doing this for 14 months and made at least two thousand prints of various levels of quality.

I tried some glues at first but almost immediately started using this and use have used it exclusively since then. This is because I make my artworks out of archival quality materials wherever I can.

This is not stuff to use in a poorly ventillated room and it has to be applied to every square inch of both surfaces in a nice thin coat. Be wary of those edges. You think you are getting every millemeter but aren’t.

I still use that stupid brush that comes in the smaller can because it isn’t really so stupid. Don’t throw away that small can with the brush in the top, you are going to want to keep that. I keep my cans stored in a cool dry place and I’m careful to shake both before I refill the smaller cans from the larger cans.

I also turn the cans every few months so that they won’t settle on the bottom and am pleased that I’m able to use mine without having to resort to thinner. It really should ideally be of the same density throughout the storage container for best results.

I remember this stuff from my childhood so I admit to having a great deal of affection for this stuff as well as taking a great deal of pleasure from something so enduring and simple and effective.

This has been a staple in my workshop since the 1960’s. It is used to adhere paper patterns to sheet metal (silver, gold, copper) in my silversmith’s workshop. The patterns are then peeled off and the metal is cleaned by rubbing with a finger.

Temporary bonding using good rubber cement is essential.

Perfect for getting rid of stress lines (gaps that are left when you put together a model kit) seals up the gaps in no time. After some light sandpapering my model kit looked like a statue piece that came as a whole rather than snap together pieces.

You just have to give time for it to dry and make sure you sandwich the pieces together. When I need to buy more, which wont be for a long time, I will buy from here for their reliable and great service.

Can’t wait to make more model kits! The kit I used this one on was Plamo.

First time using this cement, normally use Tamiya. This is Better. only criticism brush could be smaller.

This product does wonders for part adhesion. Absolutely turns two plastic pieces into one. Clean results, and easy to wipe excess , as it doesn’t flash dry as fast as the “extra thin” version.

This is an extremely versatile product and can be used in many different manners on your layout. Need to lay grass? No Problem. Ballast needs to be locked in place? Piece of cake. Want to fix trees or figures in place? You Got it! One of the great advantages to this product is that it is pre-mixed to the right viscosity for use in a sprayer, blunt syringe or for brushing.

No more becoming a human paint shaker to mix PVA/White Glue and water. This is ready to use out of the bottle. Too many times in the past I have tried to get the right viscosity using school glue and water for laying ballast, or applying grass to a layout.

This is pre-mixed and only requires a little shaking before use, and I mean just a little. 2-3 seconds tops, and then pour it into your sprayer, syringe or paint brush jar. For laying ballast it does recommend misting the ballast first to reduce the surface tension.

If you do this, PLEASE make sure you wipe your rails off before proceeding. If you use the Scenic Sprayer (sold separately) adjust the spray to a stream and then stream the cement down the middle of the ballast.

Allow it to seep into the ballast and let dry for at least 24 hours before running your trains across the ballasted section. For turf, first spray the area to become your own Central Park, and apply the turf using a shaker bottle or static discharge applicator.

Re-mist the turf between layers, and finally add one final coat of mist to lock it all together. It may sound like a lot, but it is really as easy as 1-2-3! The cement dries to a clear matte finish, which is good if you accidentally spray a building or some such on your layout.

As always, with any product of this nature, keep out of the reach of children. BTW 16 ounces may not seem like much but it went a long way on my layout and I am not out of the product yet.

A very good product for any model maker to stabilise loose objects whilst remaining transparent with a matt finish. It flows easily and can be sprayed with a fine mist sprayer or applied with a brush.

Very good for securing flock grass, tarmac, ballast etc. , on a model railway. In some cases a second covering may be needed.

I have used this product to fix both ‘grass’ and ‘foliage’ to a diorama. I have tried both the brush and spray methods and found the spray method is best for the grass and the brush for the foliage. It does the job.

I recommend it for “dust” like materials such as grass and sand as other glues I have tried are either not as effective or can still be seen after drying. Although it is expensive I recommend it for these.

I like this glue as I build many kits at once and this sets very quickly. There are thinner polystyrene cements, which I’ll also use on kits when I’m not in a rush to build so many. Also efficient about the Testors’ product is the quality of the bond, as it welds the polystyrene plastic pieces together.

I’ve been using Testor’s glue since a teenager, which was many decades ago!!!.

Always a use product for forming a strong bond. I use this in area where controlling the amount of cement is not important, or on joints that might have their strength tested. Be sure to seal well after use.

This is one of the best glues out there for plastic models. It works well and goes on smooth. I use it mostly for plastic models, but it had also come in handy when I need to fix any plastic which has broken such as kid’s toy’s.

I decided to try this in place of what we usually use, and was pleasantly surprised – it’s thinner, meaning the adhesive layer is thinner, it holds extremely well once cured, and is, as it promises, wrinkle-free, shrink-free, and even bleeds through less than the competition.

The ONLY downside is the size of the brush – we’re used to the wider brushes in Elmer’s RC, our solution was to transfer this RC (Easy as it’s pourable) into an elmers bottle, and we get the brush we’re used to with a superior product!.

I have used Best-Test products for years in graphic design; I most recently was using it to mount students’ artwork for display. With thinning, I like the way it brushes on and does not leave “bumps” under the mounted artwork.

Also, it holds permanently. Can’t do that with white glue or any glue stick product. Plus, any residue is easily removed using a rubber cement pick up.

We used to use this Testors Non-Toxic cement for making plastic models years ago and recently I have returned to using it for other items. After struggling with super glue on several occasions we remembered that we used Testors cement glue when we were kids.

So we found the old tube which was still good and made quick repairs to some Christmas ornaments. It worked great and wasn’t as messy as super glue. However the old tube being the metal type was beginning to crack open in the bends so we bought a new tube and found out it still works great.

This will now be our go to glue for repairs.

Works very well overall!! Has a tough time keeping together my broken resin 3d prints, but that’s expected. Takes 10 min to 1 hr or so to dry, and dries strong. It actually melts the plastic a little which is interesting and handy but you need to be careful with that obviously.

It’s priced well, and smells kinda cool too lol. Like lemon cleaning stuff. My go-to for plastic models and kitbashing.

I’m making puppets for my grandchild so I wanted to use a non-toxic glue. My puppet has plastic parts on the inside, covered by a fluffy minky fabric on the outside. I used the glue on the plastic parts on the inside of the puppet’s mouth.

I’m happy with the result as the glue is holding things together nicely.

I have tried several types of glue but this particular one is the best. I have built a miniature house using wooden coffee stirrers. On that project I used 9000 coffee stirrers and 56 tubes of this glue.

I am currently working on a miniature biker bar with a repair shop. This particular glue is not easy to find in stores. I will always use this website to order more when needed.

I give testers glue a 5 star rating because it is the best stuff for model cars . and for just about anything you need to fix.Never have complaint on what i use it for i just love this stuff.

Dries fast and holds up great, a perfect adhesive for models of any type. Every model builder should have this in their kit.

Worked well. I wasnt sure if it would be premixed or not and I couldnt find anything out online. Inside the plastic bucket is a plastic bag with the cement powder in it. You need to mix the powder with water in a separate container, then apply.

If you have a large job to do you’d be better to buy a big bag of the mix. Instructions are printed on the side and were smudged and bit difficult to read. But just add a little bit of water at a time to the consistency you want, then apply.

Good product. It wasn’t as “quick” as I expected but hardened nicely after a day and cured after a couple. I repaired a broken corner on my septic tank lid so it was about 3 inches thick. I added some gravel as they suggested.

Can sculpt it easily as advertised.

I am just a housewife, I asked one of my sons to fill the large crack in my garage, he told me, “all garages have those. ” I told him never mind, I’ll do it myself. I Googled to find out what I needed to do, then went to it.

I was amazed how easy this was, I was done within an hour and am so pleased with how it looks. I highly recommend this product; if I can do it, anyone can.

Hello Everyone! I bought this product to somewhat shadow the white &/or gray hues of the cement repair materials I am working with for the exterior areas of my home. I am a first timer at this stuff, a woman at that, and I want to let you all know that I really like this product – I used a paint mixing stick to blend it in & there was no problem with even blending.

KNOW that if you want “BROWN” you will get brown tones varying/depending on how much you add. I am doing small areas at a time adding only a number of drops to small batches. The Dapp ready mixed concrete repair picked up more of a deeper shade than I had wanted, and, I could have used a few more drops added into the Quikrete Quick-Setting Mix – No problem though, I am only a beginner and although I made a few mild mistakes, I can’t say that I am unhappy with the colorant or the finished product.

– Best to mix small batches with different amounts of this colorant to conclude which formula is best for each area to be patched.

The most economical way to stain your concrete! Works much better than a concrete stain rolled on after. True to color and easy to use.

When this was under the Model Masters line this was the greatest glue out there for plastics. Now, with the new spout on the bottle it’s terrible. The product inside is tho same glue but the container is garbage.

You have to squeeze very hard for it to come out and when it does it’s a huge drop. Bring back the metal spout where you could control how much comes out!.

This is by far some of the BEST glue for putting together plastic models. Even though it is not a gel, it starts taking hold within 30 seconds and can be safely handled within minutes. I have been using this glue for a few years now, specifically for GW miniatures, and have not regretted it.

This is my go-to cement for polystyrene models – holds better than super glue, though super glue is more forgiving for fixing mistakes.

I ordered this cement to join a lining leather to my rifle sling. It’s a good strong bond and still flexible. My only problem with this cement is that included brush (attached to the cap) is too long and as a result, when you screw on the cap, it smashes the brush against the bottom of the can.

This causes the brush to flare out like an upside down palm tree. This makes for a sloppy application of cement.

Rainbow flip flops are some of the strongest and after years of use they started separating between the leather and foam. I found the Barge all purpose cement for my repair. The instructions were simple to apply to both materials and wait the recommended time.

Press together and dry. Worked absolutely awesome! I will have a holes worn thru them before they think about separating again.

This glue is great, way better than weldwood. The order came fast. The bond is very strong. The smell is better than the standard, but I’m sure the fumes are not better than the standard for you.

I have used this product for years in my leatherwork and nothing else comes close to its top quality performance. Well worth the price as a little goes a long way.

When I received the book, I was surprised at how new it was! I got my order within the same week. Would recommend to anyone

Watched video of shoe repair professionals and this works well for shoe and other repairs.

The Testor’s Model Master line of products provide features that go beyond the usual specs in various ways of other Testor products. Such is the case with this cement, as, it provides a very fine, and secure, metal cannula that allows you to exude very minute quantities of cement.

By having this feature, it enables the modeler to more precisely control the amount of cement, which is critical towards producing a “clean” effect when joining parts. Model cement is actually a solvent for the styrene plastic, and so, when you get excess cement on the plastic, it disfigures the surface, a phenomena known as “crazing”.

By providing the very fine metal cannula and the subsequent minute flow, this adverse effect is greatly minimized, ending up with a more professional looking model.

My model is U. S. S. Constitution. Im working on the gun barrel halves an glue them to the deck. (thats what the pictures are showing). This is my second bottle Ive purchased (an Ive try others) but I really like testers model master liquid plastic model cement glue 1.

I only haft to hold the plastic model pieces for about couple mins. An its there to stay! I highly recommend this model cement glue.

the best cement I have ever used! great price and needle applicator on tip make’s it a precise applicator but the only downside is that you need to always be sure you put the cover on the tip as the glue will harden inside the needle tip and then you can’t ever use the tip anymore and you’ll need to buy another bottle? ”a note” is to be sure to save the small metal cleaner that comes with glue from the inside of package.

This product is absolutely NEEDFUL to those who like to assemble plastic models! Just as long as its vapors are not “huffed,” as was common when the stuff smelled like oranges, you should be all right.

You are warned, though, that you CANNOT paint on it, nor can you use it where models have BEEN painted. Such paint will not hold to cemented surfaces, nor will cement hold to painted surfaces. An added advantage is that any such package as this now includes tips you can secure to the tubes and thereby enhance the precision of its usage.

However many times you found yourself using too much in the past and ending up with joints that fell apart on you, those days are gone now. As far as your skills go, you should not be afraid to experiment with this substance.

So go for it!.

This is a good bodied plastic cement. It has styrene plastic in solvent. It is good for ill-fitting joints or quick hold. Minor repositioning of pieces while wet is possible with this cement. Dries to a joint nearly as strong as the plastic kit parts.

This glue was strongly recommended on modelling sites, so I decided to give it a try. I had some models that had fallen into disrepair, so away to work I went! With very little effort, I was able to fix them and put new ones together.

The heavier pieces still need to have some aid in keeping together, but I haven’t seen glue that didn’t have this type of problem. Overall, I am pleased with the offering.

Did exactly what I wanted. Made the concrete a grey color. I used half a bottle to a 30kg bag and mixed the Color Mix in a bucket of water first. I even added a small amount of water later if it needed it and it worked great.

It blends into my driveway very nicely.

Bought to colour a concrete table. The concrete was jet black when it was wet, then dried dark which was good, but then ground the concrete and it had no black colour. Was hoping for a through-colour mixture.

Testor’s Clear Parts cement & Window Maker, was kind of a poor product. Once home and ready to use the product, the glue inside had hardened into a solid state and was no longer usable. I first contacted Testor’s and received no reply.

I then went online to see if this was unique to my purchase, but general consensus is that after sitting for long periods of time is that the glue will harden. If you can get a good batch, make sure to use it within 8-12 months.

I have used this product before and it had good results, but the stock in the Michael’s store I visited, was all solid and rubbery, so I returned it and got my money back.

Dries clear–Excellent! Dries fast in small amounts, holding power is weak on part you may bump or touch with slight force. Great for headlight lens or windshield, door handles and mirrors on model cars will pop off if touched—and yes, I did remove any and all paint from parts where contact was being made.

Overall, still a very good product with many uses.

I’ve always had problems with an adhesive plastic windows. Not any longer. Quick delivery. Thank you.