20 Best Channel For Wifi (2022 Updated)

Out of the box, this router was easy to setup and worked great. Subsequent firmware updates rendered the functionality of this router useless. Once the firmware is updated, the app no longer works and the user no longer has access to manage the devices on their network.

The only way to fix this is to continually reset the router, but them it only holds for about 6 hours and then the cycle has to be repeated. Nobody has time to constantly reset the router and re-setup their home network every day.

Based on other reviews and other websites, this is a known flaw that Linksys refuses to address. A newer firmware update was released in October 2021, but the Connectivity portal states the firmware is not compatible with the router (although is was pulled directly from the support page on linksys.

com that matches the router). All attempts to upgrade to the newest firmware confirm that it was updated, but the router still shows the current version as being the older version. This router was good when it worked brand new but without the functionality that it prides itself on and the lack of usefulness of the app, the router is basically nothing more than an oversized paper weight.

Long a supporter of Linksys, I will be going out today to buy a new non-Linksys router.

check out https://www. linksysinfo. org/index. php?threads/ea7300-stuck-on-waiting. 75371/ before you invest in this router. The firmware upgrade from March 2020 completly locks out any ability to log into the router and Linksys has refused to acknowledge or fix the issue.

Prior versions work, but have a known issue that was supposedly fixed (but broke basic functionality for administrative log-in to the router. If you never want to configure your router’s unique configurations, then go for it.

We will probably buy some other companies router to replace ours as Linksys hasn’t fixed the problem in 18+ months and counting.

This behaves exactly like the AC7500 that is priced at $149. 99. I did a direct comparison and my ISP speeds were the same. Theres not much difference between AC1750 and AC1900 unless your ISP speeds are greater.

The only real difference is B/G 2. 4gHz is 450mbps vs 600mbps on the AC1900. Again on paper its a difference but in reality no difference as all my devices are AC. The package includes the router, 3 removable antennas, installation CD, ethernet cable, power adapter, and quick start guide.

Installation is simple, just hook up the ethernet cable to the router and restart the the modem – it will configure itself automatically. Make sure you use CAT5E minimum or CAT6 cables to fully maximize your LAN network and internet speeds especially if your internet exceeds 100Mbps.

The wifi defaults to the provided SSID and you can access the linksys settings by connecting to the network and typing “192. 168. 1. 1”. The network settings itself are VERY BASIC and will satisfy the average consumer that simply use the router for WIFI.

The only adjustments I make in the settings are changing the wifi name and channels to the best one in my area. I use the Wifi SCAN on a MAC that tells me the best 2. 4GHz and 5GHz channel to use and I change them accordingly in the linksys setting.

I also disable media prioritization as I do not want any throttling of my devices. There are guest access, parental controls, and security settings. NO VPN settings- Again, VERY BASIC settings that are available.

You can also attach a USB 3. 0/2. 0 hard drive to the back of the router as there is 1 USB 3. 0 slot. This does work great for movies as I have a Nexus Player and can access the HD that is connected to the back of the router via WIFI.

It is a great feature since you can watch movies off the HD through Wifi. File transfers VIA wifi to the USB3. 0 HD are very slow at around ~20MB, so don’t expect to transfer large files via WIFI fast.

The reliability has been great and I have about 12+ network devices connected at once. Rokus, Mac minis, iPhones, PS4, PCs (LAN), MacBooks, iPads, Android phones all connect via WIFI and work FANTASTIC.

In a 2-story house about 60 FEET away I can get MAX internet speeds (on AC devices) as if I was hard-wired. I am currently paying for 150Mbps/10Mpbs internet speeds from my ISP and through WIFI upstairs my actual speeds are 172Mbps/12Mpbs with a wireless AC device.

I am actually meeting and exceeding my ISP speeds which is what you expect from a router. Also, there is very minimal lighting on the router itself- only the Linksys logo lights up blue and blinks when their is no internet connectivity.

Overall, this is a great looking and performing router but with basic network configurations. Despite the lack of configurations it has suited me well for my needs in streaming movies, internet downloading, internet browsing, online gaming, and streaming movies via attached USB HD.

Although it is advertised as MIMO, in actual every day usage it is negligible on the user end. Compared to the AC1900 EA7500 I don’t notice a measurable difference in speed. For the price of $99. 99 it is very affordable and reliable that you can simply set up and forget about and one that maximizes the most out of your ISP speeds.

This is a pretty good router. I’ve used Linksys and Cisco routers for years so I thought I knew what I was getting into with this one. I was right with one main caveat, in that if you don’t go through the regular setup wizard – at least initially – it will be really unhappy with you as you go about trying to get it working.

It sounds absurd, but it was what I ran in to. I initially tried to skip the wizard and go straight into setup and it locked itself into a weird state where it would be responsive for about 2 minutes and then shut down all its wireless signals, dropping systems that were connected to it.

I factory reset it and went through the wizard and then all was well. For those looking for this feature, you can do port forwarding on this router. I have a domain registered dynamically for my home domain and this router can be easily set up to handle that, but you have to pretend you know nothing and go through the wizard first.

Sort of like making an Olympic skier start on the bunny hill simply because they don’t have a season pass, but it seems to be the only way with this one. Otherwise a very decent router for the price.

Seems to meet the expected speeds. Range is slightly less than my previous Linksys (EA4500) but the only devices I need to connect from beyond the range of this one don’t need maximum speed so I bought a repeater for that and all is well.

Very good low cost WiFi 5 802. 11ac router. Lots of features such as firewall, guest access, dual band, prioritization, mobile app for admin interface, etc. The USB port is handy for accessing media and there are 4 RJ-45 wired LAN ports (not shown in Best Buy pictures).

The status indicator is also handy for quickly checking whether the router is up and connected. Note that there is no CD-ROM or user manual included, but there’s a quick start guide and a PDF manual can be downloaded off the Linksys site.

Also note that the max speed shows as 867 Mbps (not 1200 Mbps as noted on Best Buy) and the hardware manufacturer shows Belkin. The unit can get pretty warm during normal use. It would’ve been nice if it could be positioned upright (either due to space requirements or to reduce dust entering the router).

Somehow this router is rated one of the top routers, even still in 2018. I’ve had this router since early 2016. Until a recent firmware upgrade, I was frustrated by a known issue that the device wouldn’t successfully assign DNS servers manually, it would only pass the DNS servers specified by your ISP’s DHCP regardless of what you specified manually, rolling back the firmware to the original version was a work around but, the newest firmware release was bugged.

Well they finally fixed it, like 2 years later and that’s about the only good news for this thing. This router must be rebooted regularly or performance will start to degrade, particularly with the wireless.

The wireless range isn’t terrible but, the speed seems to be miserable. My 100Mbps connection tests at about 2-10Mbps on the 2. 4Ghz Wi-Fi, occasionally it will fluke and test at like 20-25Mbps but overall, the wireless seems to be pretty bad, I’ve tinkered with the settings, both Wireless-G, Wireless-N, mixed modes, doesn’t matter, never goes over 25Mbps.

The 5Ghz I really couldn’t say, if I connect any device on the 5Ghz it just fails completely, even right next to the router every device says ‘poor’ signal and I guess I would just say the 5Ghz doesn’t even work.

Has some nice useless features like media prioritization, lets you pick some devices to get priority over others, result is the rest of your devices just have useless to none connection, great concept; if you set it up wrong, you handicap your entire network to a reduced speed.

I’ve owned many routers over the years including several Linksys, and have experience with many others, I have to say I was excited when I “upgraded” to this router but overall, it’s actually worse than the WRT160N Linksys Wireless-N that I upgraded from.

This is an excellent very capable router with good coverage and great data flow capabilities. That said at the time of this writing (Mar 2022) there are no specific ISP settings for this model on PBTech’s router settings page for TP-Links, so I will make some comments to help.

But before doing so in terms of performance, I’m in a 2 bedroom unit with a third room for storage (all one level). The fibre box at one end with office at opposite end. I located the router next to fibre box and tested connections at opposite end of house.

iPad good enough but laptop/compact PC poor (about 10% capacity of a 100/300 fibre connection) so perhaps weaker antenna in those. So bought a 20m Cat6 Ethernet cable and moved the router to centre of house.

Speeds are now excellent in all areas, typically between 70% to 90% , sometimes 100% capable speeds. Very impressed! No mesh required!! Router feeds connections to devices intelligently too so drop offs rare unlike some other lesser routers I’ve used.

For settings, Google ‘pbtech tp-link router settings’ for the setup page you need. For fibre I used the Archer C3150 at end of the pbtech page which was close enough match for ‘Advanced’ settings for this router on Vodafone NZ plan, but make sure you complete step 2 before internet connection will come live.

I have had TP-Link routers for years. This was to upgrade our AC1900, which still works but wifi speeds were not as good as they could be. Most of devices are new, however beware. In our case, I had to return this.

The software is super easy to use and gets setup very quick. The bad, if you have any old 2. 4ghz device that can not be manually setup then you might have a probably with it getting to connect. The TP-link software while great, this model does not have any fine tuning.

We have to older smart devices that do not like smart connect or the wifi band ssid sharing. There are some ways around this issue, but then the smart connect feature of most wifi6 devices is useless.

With this tri-band you can create 3 separate ssids that will get your older and new devices up and running, the problem is now they are all potentially on separate networks. That’s the kicker. If you have different devices on 3 different networks then when it comes to using wifi apps you have to switch ssids to connect with those devices.

Very annoying and well with the older AC1900 router that wasn’t a problem. If you are a tuner, this Archer 3200 is not for you, unless you change the software to DD-WRT which nulls your warranty.

Bought this on the 10th of March and it came in the mail two days ago. One problem that I’ve consistently encountered when using this device is the lack of end user configuration options in the firmware graphic user interface, accessible by typing 192.

168. 1. 1 in the URL search bar in any browser and subsequently entering in the password (usually “admin”). Features this router lacked, to my surprise were 1) the ability to change between differing levels of NAT strictness.

There was merely the option to use NAT or another, older standard that is no longer relevant. I suppose it might be for aging offices stuck with old technology, but that’s not much of a consumer bonus.

Universally, router firmware GUIs have NAT options for “strict,” “moderate,” and “open. ” No such option exists for this router. 2) This router’s configuration settings also lacked options to configure certain firewall settings.

Exploring all the options, I could not find any “QoS” settings. There were WMM settings for “High Priority” devices, but I got conflicting information from Linksys as to whether that also applied to ports triggered specifically by the end user, meaning that port triggering could actually hurt high priority device performance.

Whether or not IPv4 and IPv6 SPI settings were turned on or off made no difference as to the router’s hostility towards regular websites I wanted to visit. Amazon. com, Google. com, etc. would all have time-out issues and I would constantly have to attempt to refresh these pages and it was aggravating how hostile this device’s safety settings were to just having an optimized connection.

I got this for the 6E wireless capability but it’s firewall just shot any benefits down. Worse still, the 6E network band had higher latency than its 5GHz band, at least according to synthetic ping tests in the Command prompt to Google.

com. One of the promises of 6E wireless was lower ping, but you will not find lower ping with this router, unfortunately. 3) Certain options that are essential to user configuration of router settings, such as turning off 2.

4/5/6 GHz bands, changing their channel widths, or changing the channels themselves (1-11 on 2. 4Ghz, 36+ on 5Ghz, etc) were buried behind a tiny hyperlink font in the bottom right corner of the firmware GUI with the font “CA.

” I thought that “CA” referred to regulatory information for residents of the Republic of California, not to extra user configuration settings. That was a serious oversight by the engineering, development, and end user experience teams.

That is a basic feature that is so universal that it should never be buried behind tiny font with a designation that even people familiar with IT would not associate with extra settings to configure wireless bands on or off or to change channels.

I did have a lengthy chat with Linksys tech support about this where the agent did guide me to this setting (thankfully, Linksys chat support has competent techs on the other end). But this last downside really did puzzle me.

I mean. why would this feature be hidden? Worse still is that the page dedicated to this setting in the new Linksys Smart Wifi pages did not mention this “CA” hyperlink to access these features at all.

Come on, Linksys, do better by the end users. If you are to competitive in 6E wireless technology to compete with ASUS and Netgear, these features need to be prominently displayed and accessible within the user interface.

When I first heard Linksys was coming out with a new router offering mesh capability, as well as WiFi 6, I was excited…and, then, once I understood the reality, disappointment set in. don’t get me wrong…the Hydra AX5400 is a very good router…but, as a “mesh” router, compromises were made.

To help those considering this router, I’m going to do this review a little differently – I’m going to start with the ‘bad’, then work my way to the ‘good’. BAD: First, this “mesh” router is NOT your typical mesh router.

Truth-be-told, it’s NOT a mesh router…it is “mesh capable”…or, to use the marketing jargon Linksys uses, it contains “Intelligent Mesh Technology”. What this means is, when used with other Linksys routers containing “Intelligent Mesh Technology”, they can be combined to create a (so-called) mesh network.

Why do I say “so-called”. Because, unlike other routers with TRUE mesh-ability, this is only a dual-band router (others are tri-band). Granted, many of your inexpensive (and even some midrange) mesh systems use this design, where the 5GHz band can be used for data between devices and the internet, but those same bands are also used for ‘connecting’ the mesh ‘nodes.

A TRUE mesh network utilizes a second 5GHz band (typically, the faster AX band)…ie. the “third” band…as a dedicated backhaul channel for connecting nodes. This frees up the first 5GHz band for data between devices and the internet.

With a dual-band mesh network, the 5GHz band can…and, often does…become a “bottleneck” for data, as the same band is transferring data between devices & the internet, AND transferring data between the mesh nodes.

The second problem is the lack of security features. Sure, it has your typical ‘basic’ security features…and, that’s it. Most importantly, parental controls are sorely lacking. Moving on, while performance is ‘good’, it’s not ‘great’, with (based on published specs) it’s performance being slower that more than a few less costly routers.

It’s also QUITE bulky, being the tallest router I’ve seen in years (approximately twice as tall as other routers). Lastly, while almost all others routers these days have at least one Gigabit Ethernet port, the AX5400 has none…that’s right, you heard me correctly – NONE.

Almost forgot another problem – merged bands (by default). This means, when first set up, the 2. 4GHz & 5GHz bands function under a single SSID, and a single password. If you want separate SSIDs (with separate passwords), you will have to set that up from the browser interface, as it can NOT be set up within the app.

GOOD: So, what’s good? While not the fastest router for it’s price, speeds are still quite respectable, and the router comes from a known & trusted brand. Setup is (fairly) quick & easy. Using the app, you can be up & running in less than 10 minutes.

FINAL THOUGHTS: Is the Linksys Hydra AX5400 worth getting? For someone who wants a mostly-basic router that can be set up as a “mesh” system (through the purchase of additional routers), and a router that’s quick/easy to set up, yes, this router will more than serve your needs.

The app setup is very intuitive, and will allow you to maintain the router quite easily. However, it you’re a gamer, want a TRUE mesh system, want/need more advanced parental control, or want a router with a dedicated backhaul channel, then, NO, this is NOT for you.

For these people, Linksys (as almost all other companies producing routers) produced routers that will be better suited to your needs. It is for this reason that I was only able to give the Linksys Hydra AX5400 a 3-star rating.

I had a router that was several years old and was beginning to drop its signal very frequently. I would have to constantly power-cycle the router for it to work again. Finally, I was able to upgrade to the Linksys Hydra Pro 6 and what a world of difference my digital world has been ever since.

The hardware itself is pretty simple in appearance, yet still looks sleek and modern. It doesn’t take up much space, so it looks fine sitting out or hiding behind a book. It feels kind of cheap with the plastic cladding, but that shouldn’t really matter.

It does what it needs to. Setup was simple via an app. A web-based solution is also available where you can access many of the common router/wifi settings you would expect to find. One great thing about this router is that it is mesh-ready.

Those of you with large homes or needing to create wifi coverage for large areas would be happy because you can add additional satellites to extend coverage. I know wifi 6 is the latest and greatest, and while none of my devices are wifi 6-ready (to my knowledge at least) I can say that I have not had any issues with performance.

Range has been exceptional in my two-story condo. I can go down to the community garage and still get ample signal where my previous router lacked. When I visit my next door neighbors, signal strength is still strong and using my laptop to connect to my desktop in my own unit upstairs is speedy with fast data transfer speeds between the desktop and laptop – all wirelessly.

Ever since transitioning my home network over to the Hydra Pro 6, I have not had an issue with dropped connections. Everything seems to connect wirelessly with ease without any issues. The few devices I have hard-wired via ethernet work fine as well.

Overall, I’m liking the Linksys Hydra Pro 6. Its performance and configuration options, along with the ability to transition into a mesh network, is a far upgrade from my old Netgear setup I used to have.

I would recommend this for anyone looking to upgrade who wants great performance without a lot of hassle.

Linksys goes the plain and simple path with the Hydra Pro 6 AX5400. It has a very unassuming look but don’t judge a book by it’s cover. It was extremely easy to set up. The Linksys app (downloadable from Apple Store or Google Play) walks you through setup step by step.

In just a few minutes I was connected to the internet. Even though coverage is around 3000 square feet since this is a Mesh router you could benefit greatly by adding a couple of more Mesh nodes to get better coverage if you have a 2 story, a larger home or if the router is located at a far end of the house or building.

As with most routers you get 5 ethernet ports on the back, one is dedicated for connecting the router to a modem and the other 4 are available to hard wire devices. Flexibility!!! I have Xfinity/Comcast cable with connection to the internet through their XFi modem/wireless router.

I then connect by ethernet cable to the Linksys router in my home office where most of my devices are connected via wifi to that router. This gets me great coverage in my home and strongest signal where I need it.

As far as speed goes. Using my gaming laptop with WiFi 6 wireless adapter I went to speedtest. net using Microsoft Edge and ran it connected first to a Xfinity XiFi router/modem (not WiFi 6) and then again connected to the Linksys and then again connected to a Netgear (also not WiFi 6).

Router Download Upload Linksys AX5400 714. 26 Mbps 41. 83. Mbps Xfinity XiFi 596. 64 Mbps 41. 78 Mbps Netgear XR1000 545. 50 Mbps 41. 86 Mbps The results are pretty significant, especially since I’m a gamer and the faster speed benefits my game play.

The price tag just shy of $300 might be a bit much but but if you need an upgrade to take advantage of WiFi 6 (if your equipment supports it) then this is a great solution.

Fast wireless speed The Linksys E1200 connects your computers, wireless printers and other Wi-Fi devices at wireless transfer rates of up to 300 Mbps. Reliable wireless coverage MIMO antenna technology provides broad coverage so you can enjoy your wireless network from anywhere in your home.

Advanced security Advanced security features such as WPA2 wireless encryption and the integrated firewall help you keep your network protected. Quick to install Cisco Connect helps you set up your wireless network in a few easy steps on a Windows or Mac computer.

Easy to manage Cisco Connect works with Mac and Windows computers and helps you customize settings or quickly add new devices to your network. Create a separate, password protected network for guests Limit access time and access to certain websites with parental controls Access advanced network settings easily Measure your connection speed with the Broadband Speed Meter.

Perform regular automated update checks for firmware and software with the option to install.

Sorry but I did not like this router for my use. This router is for a single use home as it can not handle a lot of connections. I also found it very troublesome to setup requiring a computer and a cdrom drive for software installation just to connect and set it up for the first use.

Most routers I have reviewed are pretty much plug and play. I also found the firmware was not up to date even though this was an older router I had just recieved so I updated it. I found range is limited compaired to my Nextgear Nighthawk X4S, yes I know comparing a Corvette to a Volkswagon Bettle.

Also even though the unit itself is small with no cumbersome externa antenna the unit is not square so if you want to stack it , it must be on top. Other people seam to have had problems with its use but mine worked flawlessly with only one device connected.

Newegg is selling this for only $26 at the time of this review so it is a good deal for a very simple network with few devices and a slower internet connection, but for anything else spend the extra money and get a better router.

I can’t recommend this router. Setup was the most buggy I have ever seen. I spent hours troubleshooting and rebooting and power cycling and more hard rebooting and factory resetting before what I’ve done dozens of times when it finally decided to started working and I could then test this proper.

I would be terrified if I ever had to change the IP address of the router again. Another few hours of headaches? No thank you. The software is ridiculously poor, it couldn’t detect that it was connected to it via weird or wirelessly when it was 100% sure connected to the right SSID and password time after time after time.

I wanted to murder this router several times. Dear Linksys, the 1 minute traditional setup, that requires no software and no registering for accounts is not difficult nor hard for end users. Why make it more complicated, more cumbersome, more time consuming and less effective? Anyways, again I can’t recommend this router.

I can’t comment on reliability, but it should be easy to setup and 100mbit just isn’t going to cut it there either.

I setup the 3 units that I purchased to make a mesh network. The firmware version was so old on these units (probably been in the warehouse for a few years), that the Google Wifi App didn’t quite work per the instructions when trying to setup a mesh with them.

The Google Help line spent a lot of time with me, but ultimately didn’t figure it out. But I did, as I sat there waiting for them and searching around other posts online. No one provided clear steps on how to fix it, but here’s what I ultimately did to get everything meshed and working.

1. Plug one unit in, and follow the instructions to set it up as your Primary. The phone app will get stuck on the Updating Software screen. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes (an hour would be better).

The update must be huge. Eventually exit the setup on your phone app, and start it again. If the update completed, it should skip over the software update process pretty quickly this time and get you to the part where you name your network.

Everything should work fine for that unit from that point forward. 2. For the next unit that you want to mesh, the problem is that the phone app will keep getting stuck on the same screen telling you not to mesh these units.

If you go to their website instructions, the alternative method ends up in the same place every time. The problem is the old firmware. So you first have to update the software by following Step 1 above (like you’re setting it up as a primary).

However here is the trick, it needs a WAN (modem) connection to access the internet for the update. So I do recommend having a small ethernet switch that you can plug into the 2nd port on your real primary unit, and then plug the unit you’re setting up into the switch to get its internet access for the update.

3. So follow Step 1 on your 2nd unit to set it up as a primary just so you can load the update. When you finally get to the screen that asks you to name your primary, exit the setup. You can power it off and unplug the cable from the WAN port.

4. Now you can plug the power back into your 2nd unit, and use these steps to add it to your “meshed” network from the phone app: Touch the top menu item with the 4 dots; touch the “Network & General” option under Settings; Touch “Wifi points”; touch the “Add Wifi Point” button; follow the steps to add it to your meshed network.

5. Setup additional units to your mesh just like you did the 2nd unit. Make sure you have time to spend a few hours on this project, but the end result is pretty cool. I have my primary unit in my office next to my modem.

It has a switch plugged in so that I can plug in my desktop, printer, laptop, etc. I have a 2nd meshed unit sitting on my TV unit also with a switch attached to plug in directly to any devices I have there.

I have a 3rd unit plugged in our front bedroom to extend my range towards the front of the house. All the units are called blue, but it’s a really dark blue that looks black most of the time. They have subtle blue light at the top, and I found you can dim or turn off using the phone app (great for the one in the bedroom).

All my speed tests are maximizing my cable connection. So far I’m very happy with this setup, and this network is compatible with the Google Wifi hockey pucks should I want to expand the network (it all uses the same phone app).

I had this monitor for over a year, loved it. I never write reviews unless I have something nice to say, but what happened to me today with this monitor was a nightmare and it is absolutely infuriating that this major malfunction is not in the description.

I was working in my office on it when suddenly I went from relaxed, to feeling like I was making a decision between my life, and $20,000 worth of hardware. This is not my video, but after explaining on twitter what had happened and sharing the make and model of the monitor, somebody shared this with me – https://www.

youtube. com/watch?v=YkQVK6LKtEY The video does not do justice to how loud it this is. When you have 7 GPU’s rendering at full load, and something like this reminiscent of an airhorn or ambulance blasts in your face, it sends you into the worst panic that worsens with each passing second, until you figure out it is the STUPID FREAKING MONITOR that, according to one commenter in provided video – “Asus knows is an issue, but their only current resolution is to ‘reset the monitor.

‘” I cannot express how infuriating this is. If this happened to one person at ASUS, they would recall it immediately. I do not wish this upon anyone, it is the most unnecessary inconvenience I have ever experienced with computers in the many years I have worked as a professional.

It has been over four hours, and my ears are still ringing. The speakers on this thing are awful and extremely quiet, which I didn’t mind obviously, I was buying it for 4K resolution, as basically everybody buying it is.

I cannot express to you how loud the siren was, and with almost complete certainty based on the quality of the speakers, I can say the sound wasn’t coming from the speakers. It sounded like a police siren was installed in this thing.

Now, I had it for a year, and loved it – and I’m not saying that every single one will do it, but the amount of views suggest that many may have experienced this issue besides the maker of the video and myself.

I believe it’s only fair that ASUS put an asterisk next to this item and give fair warning, or try to resolve the issue. Since they have not, I felt the necessity to share so hopefully you will take heed and not experience this.

Do not buy this monitor unless you’re a big fan of trying to stop your heart. It will give it’s best shot. After sharing my experience, I gave this monitor away on Twitter. I refuse to go through something like that again.

I also refuse to accept money for such an item. Would have been better off flushing my money down the toilet, at least I would have never had to go through such an unnecessary episode.

Tired of having multiple wifi extenders that constantly drop I investigated mesh networks. I needed something that I could put the kids on timeout, prioritize wife’s internet traffic and manage everything even offsite.

The OnHub ticked those boxes for me. I bought one to start with and I am super impressed. Previously without the extenders I would get POOR (11Mbps) wifi signal in my bedroom from my main router. With the OnHub (located right next to the main router) signal is EXCELLENT (72Mbps on phone) in my bedroom.

My home is an old brick home. The parental control (time limits, Safe Search) are great features to keep the kids safe. I can prioritize my wife’s device when needed (like when kids are streaming). The only feature request I would like is ability to lower certain devices priority (but sure that will still come).

As someone not staying in USA, yes the AC adapter is rated 220v also so all you need is a US to your local plug converter for it to work. The app also does not have any localization limitations. I read old reviews where people complained about not being able to set DHCP range, DNS or IP address of the device, this is not the case with the latest firmware (that installs automatically when setting up the device).

Would I recommend this product – for someone with beginner or intermediate IT skills and wants something that you can “set and forget” then I would say a definite yes. For someone who wants more control on their router and loves Mikrotek devices, maybe give this one a pass.

For me this has been a great purchase that I definitely do not regret.