20 Best Oil For Mercedes C300 (2022 Updated)

This should be great oil. 100% synthetic, from a top name, and meets the specs. But, come on guys- ‘noticed the power increase’ 1% claimed. If you can tell that, you must have your Superman cape on Shifts like butter compared to last oil.

We’re you using peanut butter before? I’m riding around the world on a F800GSA BMW. I always use a 100% synthetic of what ever major brand Ivan find where I’m at in the world? Yacco, Motul, Motorex, Castrol, Mobil 1, etc.

I’ve used it. But only their 100% full synthetic, top oil. I have to admit fresh oil generally makes the clunky BMW gearbox feel ‘smoother ‘, but that impression is lost fairly quickly. I’m approaching 100,000 km, all overlanding miles, including up and down Africa.

My Rotax engine uses no measurable oil between changes, and the valve clearances are like it just left the factory. Summary, buy the top quality oil, meticulously change it, and keep the dirt out.

“What oil should I buy?” You might be wondering to yourself as you look over everything from the bargain brand all the way to the premium liquid gold. You take obvious notice of the massive price differential , one costing more or less the same as three oil changes from the cheapo stuff.

Colloquial wisdom tells us it’s more important to change the stuff regularly than to use the brand name, but is it worth it to change regularly and use the good stuff? My money is on yes. Motul is one of the most highly regarded in this category, and I had heard its praises even before I began motorcycling when I drove a VW and I wanted something that even the Germans thought was best.

Performance, miles per gallon, and engine life. These are three things enhanced by using premium oil, and probably one of my favorites is that if you need to extend the oil change interval by a bit, because life does get in the way sometimes, I’d rather have an oil I trust lubricating my precious engine than a cheapo brand.

So you decide for yourself, but if you do want the best, Motul should be among the top names on your list.

I bought this as it is the best oil on the market. But it is expensive though. When I bought my bike used, R1 2007 with only 10,000 miles, the seller put a very cheap oil in it and it lasted only 1,000 miles, after that it smelled like burned oil when I was starting up my bike and I didn’t like that, so I bought this oil, so I will see if it last longer than 1,000 miles for the price, otherwise I will go with a slightly cheaper Motul oil like the Motul 7100 4T.

Pros: Bright color to see through the small window. Smells kinda good, but not very flower-ish. I used the 15W50 which makes the shifting not mechanical and very smooth, I will try the 15w60 next time to see if it is even more smooth.

Cons: Revzilla sells it at $85. 52 but matched the Amazon price of $61. 00. So it is very expensive.

IšverstiShow in original languageI’ve driven a 2001 Ford F-350, 7. 3 diesel for about 5 years. Of course I wanted to use the best oil in my truck. The problem is that there are so many different opinions on the best diesel oil.

I knew the reputation of Lucas products but they even had several different blends. So I emailed Lucas, told them what engine was in my truck and asked them what they recommended. They wrote me back later that same day and told me they recommended 12 quarts of Lucas CI-4 with 3 quarts of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer.

(Yea, my truck takes 15 quarts of oil. ). Well, so far so good.

IšverstiShow in original languageThis is an excellent oil for older flat tappet engines because of the high level of zinc and phosphorous additives. This oil has 0. 14% or 1400 ppm of zinc (ZDDP). I use this in my 1980s powerboat with twin chevy big block engines.

The multi-viscosity 15W-40 rating eases the load on the distributor gear driving the oil pump during cold starts as the oil is not as thick as straight 40 oil when cold. Highly recommended. I am a mechanical engineer and mechanic in my spare time.

IšverstiShow in original languageUsed in in a John Deere 790 small diesel, also a Kabota compact diesel tractor. Also my Mercruiser 350 stern drive boat. Oil is “gooey” and sticks to metal tenaciously.

Strong oil pressure, boat didn’t drop any oil pressure even with sustained wide open use.

TraduireAfficher dans la langue originaleThis motor oil is the best! It contains gold, platinum, palladium, and lots of other things which multiply in your engine, increasing the value of your engine, and making your engine impossible to ever wear out! Furthermore, it increases the power in your engine to such an extent that it can propel you to and beyond the speed of sound!.

wait a minute. What the heck am I talking about. It’s good oil.

TraduireAfficher dans la langue originaleThe oil is great! But somewhat expensive. It would be much more convenient if this oil was available in 5 quart or better yet 6 quart containers. The traditional gallon size is too small for my Jeep Wrangler.

This means I wind up buying two gallons every time I change oil. The remainder winds up in my lawn mower and snowblower.

I have no idea why I didn’t switch sooner! My brother is a professional heavy equipment mechanic and has preached to me for years that most manufacturers run Mobil Delvac oil. I have run Rotella, Delo, and lastly Amsoil in my previous engine.

Starting at 275,000 miles I switched from conventional to full synthetic and ran Amsoil 2 micron bypass filter and went to 30,000 mile oil changes with full filter changes every 5k and bypass filter changes every 15k with oil tests every change.

Well, at 346k I had a new 3000 mile HPOP go out, so I pulled the motor and opened it up to clean it. and all wear surfaces were going through (i do run my truck pretty hard, fwiw. I also then learned many racers have has AMSOIL ruin their engines).

I installed a new Jasper motor (regrettable) and I ran Delo for 20k. One day everything was sold out except Mobil. I bought it and only then did I notice it’s a SYNTHETIC BLEND!!! (can’t really tell easily) I was flabbergasted! What a bargain! It’s usually cheaper than Rotella etc conventional! The truck runs great, the oil looks good at 5k.

I wish I had switched sooner!!!!! (right now, June 2022, it’s $13/gal, $52/5 gal at TSC, usually $16/$62. Way cheaper than autozone, etc. Super bargain!).

My 08 Silverado currently has 1,176,894 miles on it. It’s never had any internal problems or repairs. It’s only had Mobil Delvac 1300 Super oil since it was new. I’d highly recommend this oil & plan on using it in the future.

I’ve been running Mobil Delvac 1300 Super for the last 12 years. 10 years in class 8 trucks and last 2 years in my Ram 6. 7 p/u. Never an oil related issue. I also run Mobil Delvac 1 75w90 in my AAM Differentials.

I use Mobil lubricants in everything I own.

Very good price on a full synthetic oil that meets VW 507. 00 spec, and I get free shipping. A hard-to-find oil that comes to my door. Had been using Mobil 1 ESP for @ $8-9 per quart. This is $5 per quart for same specification for my 2015 Golf TDI.

Ordered wrong oil jug . Didn’t want edge 5w30 wanted full synthetic 20,000 mile 5w30. Jugs same color not good .

Look, I use Liqui-Molly ceratec additive in my own car. a friction modifier that has been SCIENTIFICALLY proven to lower engine friction, and disabled ECU engine speed controler, significantly increased engine speed by 500+ RPM.

So, use Mobile 1at $14 a pint, and add the ceratec as directed. This additive should be changed after the first 3 oil changes, so your engine si fully coated with Liqui molly ceratec. I do endorse the product description, but I am just suggested a different way to go.

See YouTube for the repeatable scientific evidence that the Liqui Molly ceratec actually reduces friction. Less friction means longer engine life, better mileage, and gearhead priority #1: MORE POWER! *I have 2,200 miles on my new engine.

The problem with 2011- 13 Sonata/kia 2. 4liter GDI motors was NO oil during startup in cylinders, cylinder liners, valves, etc. It made a horrible sound during startup for about 3 seconds. I was taking advantage of the Kia/Hyundai free oil changes.

I was told the noise was vfc the “high pressure pump on warm-up. Normal”. It was NOT normal. Got a new engine after 67,480 miles, and vowed to NEVER allow it to happen again. It was covered under warranty and took 5 months to get a new motor.

After 3 startups, it sat for 3 says. When I restarted it cold, it made that same noise. I drained 2 quarts of clean bnb oil and added ceratec. It no longer makes that noise, and 1st to 2nd shifts chirp.

Has much more power up top. Good vuy. Sorry so long. Liqui Molly is a brand u can trust. Ceratec is just next level. Here are some pics of my 2012 Optima EX 2. 4 dyno tested at 223 HP and 188 lb ft. It has 197hp at the rear wheels.

I am happy.

I used the Rotella products for decades in my trucking companies. ( & my personal diesel pickups. ) In Millions of miles for semi-trucks, using oil testing labs to continually monitor oils, I was able to extend oil drain intervals significantly.

In all those years I NEVER had ONE oil related failure or indication!! One such truck I took out of commercial service & continued to use it for personal use for 7 more years. I sold it with 972k miles, & Still had never needed to do an engine overhaul!! ( that was with NON synthetic oil ) Now that synthetics are available, my personal trucks use this exclusively!! I grew up in Northern NY, on the Canadian border, & value the cold weather performance of synthetics even more.

As an automotive technician I have always trusted the quality of Motul products. I ride my Ninja very hard so naturally I wanted good oil. Many kms on this bike now. I did notice the clutch felt much better when I switched to this oil.

I change it before it gets dirty however the color of it makes it very easy to tell when its time to change.

The only time I don’t shop at O’Reilly is when I can’t find a store or I’m not near one. By far the best store I’ve ever found is in Princeton where I live. There are several good people at this location but the best one that I have found that is extremely knowledgeable in every aspect is Blake! I was looking for a fuel pump that I couldn’t get anywhere for a 1995 Chevy 6.

5 diesel every location I called said they didn’t have it couldn’t get one couldn’t even find it. I called back to my store in Princeton and was lucky enough to speak with Blake he not only found that O’Reilly had it in stock.

He found it at a store that had already told me it didn’t exist and it was in their warehouse. I would prefer to buy everything locally but sometimes you have to buy stuff online especially when all the O’Reilly stores and all the other auto parts stores in town tell you that that fuel pump can only be purchased online.

So when he found it, that was awesome because he saved me from having more downtime waiting for it to ship, shipping costs, and I was able to buy it locally so any future warranties I have to deal with and I can go directly to O’Reilly in Princeton!.

This motor oil is a synthetic blend. It tolerates heat longer than regular dinosaur motor oil and doesn’t breakdown nearly as quickly as regular motor oil does. In other words, this oil protects my Peterbilt motor better than regular motor oil does and it does this for a longer period of time.

I always change the oil in my trucks. In my opinion, Mobil Delvac 1300 is a top quality brand ! Thanks for keeping out trucks up and running!.

I have a 98 Mustang GT slightly modified, 98,000 miles winter stored except for one year in Michigan. driven 2k every summer max, changing the oil every season. I have used Mobile 1 or Napa Gold filter and Penzoil Ultra high mileage or Valvoline HM full synthetic.

It always ran a little hotter than it should have, some dry starts, and valve train noise and bottom end noise that I figured was normal, and probably was to some extent. ok, here is the payoff. I changed to a Motorcraft FL802S filter($3.

97) because they are well built and has a good silicone anti-drainback valve. I dropped in the Castol Edge High Mileage Advanced and WOW, what an incredible difference!! Valve train noise gone, bottom end noise GONE! The engine is SO quiet, revs freer, runs quite a bit cooler and the mileage seems to be a bit better, but I always drive it like I stole it, so that is hard to say.

Bottom line, so far, I recommend trying this oil. I am extremely impressed with it so far. I will drop the oil at the end of the season and send it to Blackstone Labs to test the oil and see what they say and update.

Just the fact that the engine runs way more quiet and cooler gives me comfort, I really feel like I have done my motor an injustice by not running this oil. Sorry for the long review. Good Luck.

Previously, Shell included foil seals inside their bottle caps for Rotella so the purchaser could verify the contents had not been tampered with. When I opened my latest purchase there were no seals.

(Had someone used the good oil and replaced it with a cheap substitute?) I called the phone number listed on the bottle and was told Shell is no longer using seals but has gone to a cap which is supposed to split at the bottom the first time it is opened.

The split is very subtle and hard to detect. Might be a good reason to consider a more secure brand.

My 1979 Volvo 244 DL with 231000 km has been treated to Shell Rotella T4 10W30 since Sept. 7, 2019, odometer at 215477. The overhead cam/valve sound is quieter at 3000 R. P. M. on the 400 series highways at 100 km/h.

The rear crankshaft oil seal has stopped seeping oil this year. I used to use synthetic oil. I can experience that Shell Rotella T4 10W30 oil really agrees with the 2. 1 L, B21 A naturally aspirated gasoline engine.

These are long-lived engines, and anything I can do to prolong its life is appreciated. Thanks, Shell engineers, for the extra protection of Z. D. D. P. for the camshaft lobes!.

Used this in my all Jeeps for many years straight 6 blocks flat tappet tractor engines. This has zinc in it which is good for older inline 6 cylinders mostly all my Jeeps I’ve owned over the years made it over 200,000 miles my current Jeep is 2004 grand Cherokee 4.

0L engine it only used shell rotella T4 10w-30 it now has 216,000 miles still going strong! However the zinc is little hard on catalytic converter I’ve changed 2 on this Jeep over all years I had it bough it brand new off lot back in 2004.

Couple off roaders swore by it years ago I switched over to it years ago and never looked back.

J’ai acheté ma KLX250S neuve et utilisé l’huile Kawasaki 10W40 minérale pour le premier changement d’huile, ensuite Kawasaki 10W40 synthétique avec environ le même rendement. Je test présentement la Motul 10W40 ester core et pour la première fois je peux sentir la différence lors des changements de vitesse.

Le changement de vitesse au sixième rapport a toujours été rugueux à bas régime tandis qu’avec l’huile à base d’ester la différence est impressionnante, à froid ou à après avoir plusieurs kilomètres.

Je ne connais pas l’avantage pour le moteur mais pour la transmission l’effet est remarquable, d’une grande douceur. J’ai lu que l’inconvénient d’une base d’ester est que les changements d’huile doivent être plus fréquents.

À $25 le litre il s’agit d’un choix personnel mais je peux confirmer que les commentaires qui m’ont incité à faire le test sont fondés.

Très bon produit ! Certes, c’est “racing”, mais ma belle le vaut bien. Dès le premier démarrage on Entend la différence !(bruit de friction clean). Le billet mis dans l’huile n’ira pas chez le mécano.

Une huile de très haute qualité que je met dans le moteur de ma cb500 qui totalise 375.000km entièrement d’origine ainsi que l’embrayage, depuis une vingtaine d’années.

I put it in the car – and the car still works so I guess it is doing it’s job. I had bought a slightly different version of this from Halfords in the past – when it was on offer. I was pleased to see it on ebay at a cheaper price than Halfords and delivered.

If I have one beef – it’s the design of the container – which is very hard to pour accurately. Splooshes all over the engine! Other than that – it is a good oil. I am slightly wary of using the really cheap ones.

I needed some oil for topping up and this came up at the top of the list on the Halfords part finder. Needless to say, the engine is still running so can’t say that it’s the best oil ever, or that it’s not for that matter.

It is doing its job which is all I could ask. It’s compatible with turbo diesel engines including those with a stop-start eco system. It was easy to pour and it gives me confidence to know I am using a product from a manufacturer that has been producing engine oils for longer than I can remember so they must know a thing or two about it.

Top quality oil from a long established manufacturer. I’ve always used Castol oils in my cars over the last few decades, and never been disappointed. Now with the added bonus over “Magnetec”? Could be just a gimmick, but worth a try.

IšverstiShow in original languageCastrol Edge synthetic is best use of oil for import vehicle and keep it running like new.

IšverstiShow in original languageA recommended synthetic oil for Volkswagen SUV I neede to top up my SUV engine oil and it was received by my dealer

IšverstiShow in original languageGood oil for snowblower. Keeps good performance going.