20 Best Oil For Older Engines (2022 Updated)

The 0W-20 oil I use in both a naturally aspirated four cylinder and a turbocharged four cylinder engines. The manufacturer recommends the 0W-20 synthetic motor oil. At over 120,000 miles, the naturally aspirated four cylinder engine burns NO oil and remains at above the “add” mark for over 7,500 miles.

The turbo four has less than 50,000 miles and does not burn oil. the average MPG is above the manuracturer’s claim. cannot recommend highly enough,.

I have used Mobil 1 for 20 years and it’s the best oil out there. Studies have shown 2 identical crown victoia’s one with mobile 1 and one with non synthetic oil. After 1,000 miles the valve covers were removed on both cars.

The car with conventional oil had sludge on the valves and lifters. While the car with mobile 1 the valves and lifters were shinny clean. That’s why I trust mobile one over any other oil.

I’ve been using Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE oil in my 2016 Honda Accord, direct injected 2. 4L since 6200 miles. First oil change after engine break in, OE oil came out and Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 went in. After 6000 miles of service using Mobil 1 AFE, the oil level dropped about a quarter of a quart as expected.

The OE oil evaporated over 6,000 miles as well and is normal for anyone concerned. I check the oil at every fill up at the gas station and keep the oil in the trunk. I live in a dry, very hot, dusty climate and a lot of stop & go traffic.

Under my current environmental conditions, it doesn’t make sense to purchase a higher end Mobil oil and risk leaving the oil in for a year or when the oil life monitor says to change the oil. 5 to 6 thousand miles or every 6 months between oil changes in Phoenix is cheap insurance.

I change it for peace of mind and ensure proper care of my engine. This oil has excellent flow at low temperatures and when you start your car after sitting overnight. Engine is very quiet and smooth when first started.

Quick flow is what prevents wear during starts and Mobil has it figured out with this oil. MRV viscosity @ -40 degrees Celcious for this oil is 9200, never seen a spec like that. Most other brands usually only list specs down to -35.

A lot starts happening that is important at these extreme low temperatures and there is a big difference in oil performance between -35 and -40 celcious. Hard to beat the specs of Mobil 1 AFE. Great product, readily available, competitively priced and just as good if not better in my opinion over OE oil.

Mobil 1 always seems to perform with high end products, highly recommend!.

Lucas provides one of the best oils for flat tappet engines. Do not put new style oils in old flat tappet engines. The new oils do NOT have the shear pressure protection. Read the white papers on the various types of oils.

If you put modern oils in a flat tappet engine you will get premature wear. The metal contact pressures are much higher in the old engines, like flat tappet, therefore you need the old style oil that provides for higher shear pressure protection.

The stuff that protects the best is not in or at very low levels in the new style oils. Make sure your engine is getting enough molly & sulfur!.

I use this oil in my boat’s two 1977 Crusader (Chevrolet) 350 c. i. engines that have flat tappets. Once a year when I change the oil, I send in oil samples for analysis. The reports show very low wear of iron and bronze, and high levels of beneficial zinc and molybdenum.

I will use this oil as long as I have this boat.

This is the perfect oil to use for older cars without catalytic converters. It’s high in Zinc which older car engines need. I’ve been using this oil for years in my Chevy & Ford engines and they love it.

Plus it makes it easy for me to inventory one brand of oil to use in all my cars! As always Summit Racing is fast to ship your order.

I have used Pennzoil on and off most of my life. Was always my go to 30W lawn mower oil but after buying a Dodge Hellcat that uses the super premium Pennzoil synthetic I have become more and more of a fan.

I recently purchased a used 08 Police Crown Vic with 140K miles. Was fleet serviced every 4-5K with records and the engine inside is still very clean, I don not know what oil was used prior to my purchase but it was changed as per spec.

I had a dealer do my first oil change with recommended weight Synthetic blend Ford brand oil 5-20. Now 3K miles later I change to this tried and true Pennzoil conventional 5-20 oil and I notice the normal start up top end rattle noise is gone to almost gone.

Strange, to actually hear a difference in a engine based on brand of oil surprised me after 40+ years of changing my oil especially moving from a blend to full conventional oil on a high mile engine.

I remember my late father telling me back in the early 70’s to always use a good Pennsylvania grade motor oil. Father recommended, Dad approved!.

This is a great oil that I went back to since todays synthetics make most engines tick like crazy. Also was using a full synthetic on a newer engine with only 15,000 miles on it that had to have the tranny pulled due to a bad leaking rear main seal.

Hopefully Pennzoil will stop the leak with the new main seal ? Lost faith somewhat on other synthetics. Oh, and I need to correct some of the old timers on here. Pennzoil is NOT Pennsylvania Crude. They are located in Texas.

Where have you old timers been ? In a cave ?.

My father ran the Pennzoil 50w Racing Oil in his front engine dragster when I was a kid. We never had any oil related failures running methanol in Crower injected big block Chevrolet engines. I miss the Pennzoil win lights that were at the Medford Oregon drag strip.

My grandfather his 1976 GMC pickup that is still in the family always has had Pennzoil 10w-30 or straight 30W. Last time I changed the oil the milage was 350k it ran great just burned a little oil through the valve giudes.

Original 350 small block engine never rebuilt all stock. Under the valve covers no sludge clean as a whistle last time I adjusted the valves. The oil on the 1976 GMC has been religiously changed every 3000 miles or every 3 months whatever comes first.

My favorite and the best oil in the world is the 25W-50 GT. The Racing oil has been my choice in Chevrolet in straight six cylinder and V8 engines winter or summer it protects. I run 25W-50 in the engine of my 2000 Harley Davidson twin cam and in the engine of my 2007 883 Sportster.

I change oil every 2500 to 3000 miles in the bikes it comes out a dark carmel color not dark black like the competition oils. The horrible 10% ethanol gasoline does not seem to be a problem with this oil.

I have never seen sludge or yellow gunk from moisture in my oil tank on either Harley when I service one. Also the Harleys and they are my main source of transportation I do not own a car or pickup anymore.

Bot b bikes get rode in rain, snow, or all weather. I use Pennzoil Type F automatic transmission fluid in the primary of both motorcycles with no problems no sludge and they shift perfectly with a nice clutch engagement.

I like this oil because it is pretty cool to be 36 years old and changing my oil using the same oil my dad did with him handing me tools for changing oil that he bought long before I was born. I remember handing him cardboard cans off a cardboard flat in the shop and at the track.

I just wish that Pennzoil was more available in my area. Unfortunately it’s not available like it was. It’s a nightmare to get it ordered, I can’t get it shipped affordably, nobody knows 25W-50 in Shell product Distribution centers, Nobody knows anything about it at parts stores, and I am tired of having to explain part numbers and prove that yes this stuff exists.

Very expensive to have to ride 80 miles for a case of 25w-50. I never see promotions or advertisements and no literature for the 25w-50 at places where I should find it. So if you are a person who is lucky to find this oil try it.

It is the best in Harley Davidson engines, anything performance or heavy duty. Bring back the 30W, 40W, 50W Racing Oils please I cannot be the only person who wants them. What happened to the Pennzoil banner flags at stores and race tracks? Oh yes If anyone is currently running Valvoline racing oil give this 25w-50 a try.

Look at the independent lab testing from Blackstone on other websites and read the numbers this oil is the best. I have had it tested myself running it in Harley Davidson Engines listed above and the test results made me happy.

Please make it easier to find in Oregon and make it to where it can be ordered. I like to use a product that I can trust because I have used it a very long time. Pretty disappointing when my father said he has no time to search for oil and uses your competitors oil because he can’t find it like he used too.

Be cool to change oil again with my dad using Pennzoil. Kinda sad for me to look at my dad a man in his 60s who was a loyal customer. He used nothing but your products so did his father. Yet sadly he had to change to one of your competitors because he doesn’t have the time to scout around looking for the products you sell he is a busy man.

Pennzoil you need to step up and get back your customers because this one typing this annoyingly long poorly written review has been pretty frustrated. How about you send my father a few cases of oil so we can have a box of empty yellow bottles ? Or those hideous new giant bottles ? Can anyone else remember the paper cans or the tin cans because I can remember tossing both into the trash when empty.

Any dads out there change oil with your kids or is that a thing of the past ? Make your products more available at parts houses like NAPA and O’Reilly. Make it so Costco can order it. Because I shouldn’t have to go to Walmart for your products and then they cannot order or find what I want.

Get it together Pennzoil get back in the winners circle.

been using this oil for years in my classic vehicles, works well, no sludge when changing or removing valve covers, easy to pour, sometimes requires a funnel depending on the entrance area of the vehicle, especially if pouring through the rocker/valve covers if they do not have a large hole as the cap and neck on the bottle is larger than many of the older oil quart bottles.

The packaging is an attractive grey colour, easy on the eyes and easy to locate in the store. Package is great size for storing on the shelf in a workshop, actually can place many next to each other as the shape is rectangular, not round which wastes space regarding packaging and storage.

I believe the oil actually likes and prefers to be allowed to flow between the space between the bearings and crankshaft, which is quite a smell space , but it is not opposed to flow around the pistons and between the camshaft and lifters, and also inside the lifters up to the rockers.

Very smart oil, I have had some that were not pleased to lubricate as many areas and had to replace them. This oils does flow well thru the hole in the bottom pan after removing the drain plug, even though it really doesn’t want to exit the engine, it would prefer to continue working.

I have also placed this oil in a squirt can to oil other mechanical entities, and of course it is quite happy to assist in areas other than just engines, like linkages, hinges, etc. I find this oil is also compatible with oil filters, flowing through easily, not leaking out, but that would really be the function of the filter, sticking well but easily traveling through the filter pleats.

One major issue is the mess that occurs if the can is knocked over with the cap off.

If you change your own oil and want a good brand name oil like Mobil. This is the oil for you. The oil is rated for 5000 miles and the container is five quarts. I like to change my own oil in all my vehicles I own The oil lubricates the internal parts to your vehicle for up to 5000 miles and when I replace the oil after 4000 miles of wear and tear The oil looks and feels like you can leave it in the vehicle another 1,000 miles I change the oil and oil filter every 4,000 miles and my vehicles last for years, don’t smoke or burn any oil.

Use a good quality oil like Mobil products and you will have a reliable oil in your motor while you are driving.

Wal-Mart warehouse via internet sales still carried this hard to find item still – I’m sure when the warehouse is empty Wal-Mart won’t offer it either, they along with other stores have dropped it off the store shelves.

So thank you Wal-Mart for having such a big Warehouse and a great staff from internet to the guys that use muscles in getting the product to the door step in record time. My Son can still drive his American made great old truck for a while longer knowing Wal-Mart could cover the engine needs for a little while longer before the oil industry has everyone using Synthetic oils in your older conventional oil engines and find out that it will make your seals and inlets plug.

up.

TraduireAfficher dans la langue originaleI had ordered the oil change kit from FCP Euro after other parts I had purchased came lightning quick, the order was correct, and arrived undamaged which, is a big deal when purchasing anything let alone auto parts.

They had the best price on Liqui Moly oil! I couldn’t even assemble the kit cheaper if I wanted to. Others may have Liqi Moly kits but they use a cheap filter. I was impressed that I ordered the oil change kit around 11:00 am and Fed Ex arrived the next day with my parts.

I will continue to use FCP for may parts purchases when possible. FCP Euro has made a fan out of me!.

TraduireAfficher dans la langue originaleOrder received on time, excellent. Oil used for my 2012 BMW X5 Turbo Diesel and is BMW LL04 approved. Has fantastic flow properties and is made in Germany. No complaints.

TraduireAfficher dans la langue originaleI purchased my VW Golf MK6 TDI at 19k miles not long ago. I had it for less than one. Change the oil at 25k miles with Liqui Moly. I noticed the difference when I turned the car on, and also when you start to get going.

The car ran quieter and way smoother with Liqui Moly. My car has a DPF so with this oil the filter will last long as well. When I purchased the car, it was running on castrol, but didn’t what type/formula the dealer put in.

Great oil. would buy again.

I just want to address the concern expressed about the lack of BMW LL-01 approval. In 2018 BMW changed the specification of their oil. They had a lot of timing chain failures on the N20 engine (4 cylinder turbo), it had poor design/quality control on the timing chain guides.

However! This is the correct oil if your BMW is 2019 or older and NOT an ///M car or diesel. The newer specifications are not necessarily friendly for older cars with respect to changing the formulations to comply with resource conserving and emissions laws (low SAPS, or Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur) Those additives tend to be poison to catalytic converts and new low particulate diesel emissions systems.

However, those same ingredients can be beneficial to lubrication. Same is true for mandated fuel mileage in the SP rated oils, good for mileage, not necessarily good for lubrication in older engines.

Generally there is no problem at all to use the newest spec SP oils. Where I would be careful is with the LL-04 and ACEA C rated oils. Those are Low SAPS oils for diesel engines generally but also cover gas engines with a SN or SP rating.

BUT these ARE GENERALLY ACCEPTED as not as good a choice lubrication-wise for gas applications, even though they meet the SN or SP spec. Evidently this is particularly true if you have mandated ethanol mixed in your gasoline and follow extended drain intervals (factory service computer).

Trivia: Look carefully on the back of the bottle, and you’ll likely find this 0W30/0W40 oil is made in Belgium. It will be the ONLY European oil at Walmart. It is excellent oil. I’ve used it in BMW’s and other German cars for 30 years.

Be aware that the Mercedes specification is generally more stringent than the BMW LL-01 specification EXCEPT for oxidation. BMW raised this requirement in an attempt to go for extended drain intervals (over 10,000 miles) So new rule of thumb: Mercedes 229.

5 approvals in place of LL-01 generally will keep you using high quality oil for Euro cars. This is killer oil for US and Japanese cars too that don’t require 20 weight oil. One more misconception I would like to blow up permanently as I’m soooo tired of hearing it.

Many people, mechanics included, think that 0W is “too thin” for their application. Wrong sports fans. 0W30 stands for 0 weight AT A VERY LOW TEMPERATURE and 30 weight at room temperature (approximately) and higher.

Its for cold starts and pour-ability in freezing temperatures ONLY. It has nothing to do with the oil after outside temperature rises above room temperature. FURTHERMORE, to get oil to perform at the wider range that 0W offers vs a 5 or 15W oil, listen closely now, you need a HIGHER QUALITY base stock oil to start with.

So a 0W30 or 0W40 oil is generally going to have a better Viscosity Index (VI) than a 5W or 15W40. This is a good thing. VI measures the oils ability to stay in range, viscocity-wise, under a wide range of temperatures.

Use this oil, it won’t let you down.

I’ve honestly used a number of different oil brands in my F250 now; there’s really only a few brands that can go the distance with my twin turbocharged F250 Super Duty! All the others seem to break down and lose their viscosity rather quickly! Castor is my go-to for my trucks oil every time to keep that motor protected and allow it to run at the highest peak it can possibly run on at all times! Of course the only place that never lets me down in knowing that what I need for my truck, including the motor oil when it’s calling for it! Is Oreilly’s every time! Hands down no doubt about it!!.

2013 Malibu eco 60,000 miles. Because of the known issue with the weak piston rings and severe blow by on the 2. 4L engines, I was adding about 2. 5 quarts of oil in 5000 miles. Check oil every 500 miles.

Switched to mobile 1 full synthetic at about 35000 miles. Nothing changed. Changed to Pennzoil at 45000 miles. Used about a quart and a half in 5000 miles. Changed to Castrol edge titanium full synthetic at 55000.

Always Used same weight. 5w30. It has used less than a quart in 5000 miles and although it’s hard to measure by eye it does look like less blow by from port on valve cover when hot at idle. Looks like this is the new oil for the Malibu from here on out.

IšverstiShow in original languageI have tried other brands of 10w 30 motor oil and my Honda lawn more just didn’t run right. I got 32oz which will last all season for most people. Love my mower and service items are reasonably priced.

Stick with products by Honda.

IšverstiShow in original languageIt’s difficult to find Honda oil in my area and I wanted that oil for my Honda mower. I don’t know a lot about motor oil although it should be warranty complainant.

IšverstiShow in original languageI have one of them newfangled Honda clone generators. By no means is it a cheap unit. This is some seriously good oil for it, quite pleased with the quality!

My daily is a 2011 Ford F-250 6. 2L gas 4WD truck. Bought it used four years ago with 73,000 miles and went with a competitors full synthetic from 75-95,000 miles. Use all different oil filters and fuel octane.

including E85. When I tow. It usually involves 7,000lbs or more from NM to ID and Ky. The truck has been running Royal Purple 5W-20 from 95-137,000 currently. I’m a little over my mandatory 5,000 mile change.

Since the switch. It runs better and think it has a little better heat protection. MPG increased a negligible amount but my trucks oil life meeter is what really sold me. Using whatever parameters it is programmed.

Competitors oil showed +/-30% life left every 5,000 mile change but RP reads +/-50% every change. I also rotate my tires at 5,000. I’ve run this oil a few times to the 6-7,000 mile mark because life and the truck computer still showed the engine oil to be in better shape.

I’ve been using royal purple for a while. Just did an oil change at 7500kms to get ready for camping season and the old oil looked brand new. It didn’t have the purple colour but had a nice amber colour, I can’t believe how well this oil holds up.

I am very particular about doing oil changes 5-7500kms because it’s cheap, easy maintenance. This oil can probably go triple that number but to each his own. PS, anyone stating this oil improves gas mileage is wrong.

They either needed an oil change BADLY or they were using the incorrect grade. Motor oil alone cannot increase fuel economy as it has nothing to do with air/fuel mixture in a 4 stroke fuel injected engine.

The company specialty was and still is a product made for performance vehicles. Racing! They manufacture for industrial, commercial and consumer products oils including consumer Diesel engines. They do not sell directly to the public but the website is very informative and easy to go through.

It tells you what product is the right product to select for your needs. One thing is important to note for those not familiar with this brand. The oil for my car is tinted a deep purple color. However don’t expect to see purple oil after starting your vehicle.

When you check the dip stick it might look dirty and clean at first. It turns to the clean color you normally see after an oil change. It doesn’t take long for the tint to dissolve. If you’re curious what the oil looks like? Ask the first time using the oil if you can observe it being put into the car.

In daylight you can see the color. Inside it just might look like old black oil. Important to note; This product specifics not to use any additives to it. So, if you take your car in to be serviced for example let’s use a car dealership.

And they try to sell you an additive that helps the oil clean as it works or reduces friction wear. You get to say no thank you and point to the label on the bottle. Then you tell them politely you would rather save the money.

This oil doesnt need it. Be careful, because service shops will take advantage of those lacking the knowledge about what they are trying to sell you. Just for them to make money off the less knowledgeable consumer.

Yes, this is a full synthetic oil. Also remember the purple tint dissipates rather quickly. Get the detailed information about their variety of products from their website. I also suggest using their brand oil filter if you use this oil.

Just so things are in harmony.

Synthetic Blend A synthetic blend combines conventional motor oil with a synthetic base. Essentially, it’s conventional oil with a boost. A synthetic blend increases performance and protects your engine more than conventional oil.

One major benefit of a synthetic blend is that it is much less expensive than fully synthetic options but includes some of the same benefits. High-Mileage This type of motor oil is exactly what you’d expect it to be.

It’s intended for vehicles that have more than 75,000 miles on the engine. Parts of the motor on vehicles with this type of mileage are more likely to have operating problems. Motor oil that is designed specifically for vehicles with high mileage take this into account and contain additives to address common types of issues.

I bought a brand new Chevrolet pick up truck in 1989. I only ever ran Pennzoil in the engine and nothing else. I was a faithful oil changer with my truck always. I was a salesman that travelled on the road always.

I put on an obscene amount of miles on that little pickup. It had a 305 engine that only ever had just tune ups. When I quit driving the truck do to it being stolen on Halloween night in 2009 it had over 1.

5 million Klm on it and still ran like a top. I still use only Pennzoil in all of my vehicles. True story.

I used another brand of motor oil for my truck for many years, but three summers ago my truck started ticking while idling. After adding a number of additives to the oil it stoped for a week or so but started ticking again.

I decided to switch motor oil brands and tried Pennzoil 10w30 and surprisingly it stopped ticking and has never ticked again. My GMC has over 450,000 km on it and Still runs like a new truck thanks to Pennzoil.

I have since purchased a van that uses 5w20 motor oil but bot now only add Pennzoil motor oil to my vehicles.

I have a 17 year old Volvo TAMD41P-A diesel in my 31′ recreational trawler. Prior engine oils for the prior owner (11 years) and me have been 15-40 dino oils, until I switched to full synthetic engine oil, also 15-40.

Operating temperature dropped 5 degrees at standard cruising RPM of 1800 to 2200 (only one of two thermostats in place most of that time), the engine runs quieter and more smoothly. Based on research I have found, I know that my engine is running cleaner, with other attributes of reduced internal corrosion, less wear, etc.

After installing 2 new thermostats, the engine runs precisely on specification for operating temperature through the full range of RPM, right up to wide open throttle, 3800 (end of the day 10 minute spike to clean the exhaust system ).

Further, smoke when starting is greatly diminished to almost zero. I am completely satisfied that I am doing all that I can to accomplish optimal engine performance and protection with Rotella T6 over the last two years, and I am comfortable recommending Rotella T6 to boating friends with diesels, confident in the cost/benefit of using the best oil quality, grade and viscosity for my application.

After hearing and reading rave reviews on this oil, and reading posts about it on oil-focused sites and forums, I thought I would give it a try. Im running it in my 04 Grand Caravan with the 3. 3L V6.

Running a half-and-half mix of 5w-40 and 15w-40. Let me say this, my van has never ran so well just by changing the brand and type of oil I am using. It currently has 209k on it and runs like a top. I switched to diesel oil because it has a higher film strength, better wear packs, and better detergent packs than gas oil does.

I want my van to run as long as possible. I am one of those people that drives a vehicle until the wheels fall off, so they say. Ive used other brands before and they have worked well, however, since changing to Rotella T6, my van has more power and response than I ever remember it having.

Rotella and other Shell products will be my only brand now. Stocked up on quite a bit of Rotella in all its major types, T4, T5, T6.

I own a towing company. We are classified as emergency and NEED every truck to start, run well, and last a long duration. Over the years weve tried everything. Currently, we run older 7. 3 diesels and new 6.

7 diesels. There is hands down a HUGE difference in cold starting and gas mileage, and performance. So much easier for the pumps, and a smother running engine. Its no joke, this oil has been used since it came out in out trucks, and our 7.

3’s have zero internal issues with between 500k and 800k miles on some of the engines. Our 21′ and 22′ model year trucks come from the dealership new, oil drained, and t6 put in to make sure the engines get the best protection right from the start.

Yeller Towing, Elk River.

What can I say…… I’ve been using Mobil synthetic oil for over 40 Years (!) and have had nothing but success with it. This new Extended Performance version allows me to go up to 20,000 miles or One year on a single oil change (Follow your manufacturers recommended oil change schedule listed in the owners manual).

Imagine only having to have your oil changed once a year instead of the normal 3 or 4 times a year! Not only will you like the convenience of a yearly oil change, you’ll probably like what it does for your engine.

This oil will not only save you money on gas because of the synthetic properties, but it will also clean up any left over sludge and varnish from the previous oil changes. It’s a win-win! Don’t over think this.

It’s a no brained. Go out and pick some up today. What have you got to lose!.

Highly rated oil. For the review(s) that say they are disappointed because your vehicle’s oil change light came on at the exact same interval. Please understand that the oil change alert light (or life remaining countdown) is literally just a digital timer that reads your odometer and comes on at normal, exact intervals recommended by the factory.

There is no sensor in the oil checking dirt, there is no way the vehicle computer has any idea what type of oil you put in it, or if it’s extended performance etc. It’s literally just a countdown clock that will work the same every time based on how many miles the vehicle has driven.

Even if you put the cheapest or the most expensive oil in it, it will come on at exactly the same time. You need to reset it again based on mileage left since you put extended performance in it and keep track on your own of when it actually is time to change (ie: 20k later or less since you put it in).

Background: In 2012, bought my Ford Edge Limited V6 with 32,000 miles on it. Decided to try Mobile 1 5W20 Synthetic. Started with their 10,000 mile, went to their 15,000 mile, now use 20,000 mile EP oil and have 210,000 miles on the car.

The way I rate oil is by my car’s oil sensor which tells me when I am down to 5% oil life, then I change it. Used to drive an average about 30,000 miles per year, now 12-15,000 miles. Oil: With 10,000 mile oil, I got between 8-10,000 miles depending on city or highway miles With 15,000, I get between 12-13,000 miles With 20,000, 15-17,000 miles I tried Gastrol Edge 20,000 mile oil, when Mobil’s EP was selling for $44 a jug ( I use 6qts/oil change) – only got about 10,000 miles.

Switched back to Mobil 15,000 mile oil, until prices at Walmart for ET oil changed to about $3 more – Now use ET! Oil Filters: Originally, used XG 10,000 & 15,000 filters, Walmart started carrying the Mobil 1 filters.

Changed to Mobile 1 and got an additional 1-1. 5k miles/oil change. Am now over 70, pay an additional $13,00 to have someone else change and dispose of the oil, but during this entire time have NEVER had an engine-related failure.

Just bought a 2020 Ford Edge (attention span isn’t what I once had and felt I needed the new safety features). My old Ford will probably go to a family member or someone in need of reliable transportation.

Bottom line: As long as the price isn’t ridiculous, I will stick with Mobil 1 – nothing I have tried matches their performance.

This oil brought my dog back to life. It was amazing how he’s been dead as hell for 8 years then a crusty dog skeleton just climbs out of the ground like that. Highly recommend if you’ve ever killed something or someone I’m not judging.

Brings em right back.

My vehicle has 190k miles on it. I was using full synthetic but since I’ve recently retired I’ve been trying to save money. The combo deal on the oil and filter was comparable to the big box store only I earned rewards on this purchase.

Boom! Winner!.

Normally my Audi needs to be topped off with a quart of oil in between changes (I’ve always used Mobil 1 and change at 5k miles). Decided to switch to Liqui Moly just to see how it would do in my car.

Went the full 5k miles and hasn’t even used a quart. Additionally, the car has been driven pretty hard the past few thousand miles, which makes that result even more impressive for me.

Nice quality oil for your German motor. Brand new Tiguan switched over to this after the first 8k and the difference was immediately noticeable in the smoothness of the initial startup and idle as well as the gas mileage achieved over the next 10k miles.

Use this in all of my turbo vehicles and it’s never disappointed!.

Used the factory recommended Mobil1 0w40 at 5k mi oil changes for years in my 2007 A8L and upon removing the valve covers to replace the gaskets, I found there was quite a bit of sludge left behind. Switched to liqui-moly 5w40 approx 3 years ago and pulled the covers again, and found the valvetrain to be significantly cleaner along with the engine running noticeably smoother and quieter.

I had used the same oil for ~7 years in my previous vehicle, and I’m sure I’ll use it in whatever my next vehicle will be.

I own an AMG Mercedes and the dealer wanted to put Mobile 1 in my car, no way. There is no better engine lubricant for your can than Edge. I have 35K miles on my car now, and it is not using a drop, even with a twin turbo motor.

I drive my car pretty hard, and still it’s always on the top mark when I check the level. My friends that made the mistake of using Mobile 1 are using at least 1 quart every 5K miles, most are burning more than that.

I also use Edge motorcycle oil in all of my motorcycles, and I own 5 bikes. I change my oil every 5K miles. It’s not necessary to do it that often, but WalMart sells it so cheap it’s the best insurance you can buy to prevent engine wear.

Valvoline is also good oil, but Castrol Edge is better.

I ve been a Castrol user since I could first find it. I used to be very involved in Italian Auto journalism. I remember wondering about Castrol since its name was everywhere in European racing and motorsports.

However, I was disappointed that I couldn’t find any here. When it first showed up state side, I used it at every oil change with great success in all my autos. Being young and into European auto racing I drove all of my vehicles ridiculously hard and at high rpms.

I am happy to say I have never had a single car go down do to engine failure or wear. All my cars were driven that way to at least 200K miles. The advantage: Castrol and 3000 mile oil changes. When the synthetic came out I was on-board.

The first thing I noticed was the engine ran 10 degrees cooler. Better lubrication even at the highest RPMS. You can take a synthetic multi-grade oil to higher mileage between changes; say 7,000 miles.

HOWEVER, You should change the oil filter once between and with each oil changes. Lets say 7000 miles between oil and filter and oil filter every 3,500 miles. Synthetic oil doesn’t break down as fast as conventional but microscopic fragments of metal and combustion blow-by still get into the oil where the filter must remove them.

I have taken a Toyota Camry to 300K on that system and that Camry is still going strong *. 0-40w synthetic is the top of the game in the states (even if your car manufacturer calls for 5-30w) and in my opinion with over a million miles of driving – Castrol is the Best.

I only wish they would start carrying the Castrol 5-50w synthetic (theoretically better still) like most volume outlets did prior to 2014. * One word of caution. Talk your the dealer before switching from a conventional oil to any synthetic in a car older than 13 years old with high mileage.

It could start small oil leaks past older high mileage engine gaskets because it is so slippery.

I like to use the manufacturer recommended fluids for my T D I. Once I had purchased a liquid moly oil without the 50501 additive and I could tell immediately after the engine cranked. It was unusually louder.

I immediately dropped the oil and refilled with this oil , the engine returned to its normal sound.

An awesome alternative to Liqui Moly’s High Tech 5w-40 advanced 20,000 mile interval fully synthetic motor oil! Keeps my engine super cool, clean, running smooth, can handle performance output very very well and has wonderful instant lubricating functionality upon start-up!.

So much controversy about what brands of oil to use, but by far with all my experiences with different oils I can say the only one that made a difference for my gasoline engine is molly, out of 200,000 miles of driving I know my car well enough and would recommend this oil to anyone! Its extensively tested for high quality standards and I enjoy my oil changes because of the confidence I have with what I am putting in my engine.

(Mercedes C240 4Matic Wagon) Ive noticed i burn less oil on my cross country trips, and quieter engine. Very satisfied with this product.

I am no scientist, and I can’t give you a scientific review about this oil. All I can say is that I tries this product in my Kia Spectra 2009 EX 4 cylinder engine. The engine ran smooth, the oil kept its integrity and by the time I changed it the color of the oil was a light brown cinnamon color, no as dark as other motor oils I have tried in the past.

The only downside of this motor oil is that you have to check your engine if you do long intervals of oil change. I do mine every 8000 miles and even though I check the dipstick every week, I did notice a drop of a 1/4 of a quart at 4000 miles.

I purchase my gas engine oil thru GoVets and have had nothing but good experiences. Mag one full synthetic gas engine oil is as good as any other full synthetic out there and better than most.

Good quality and decent shipping time. #sweepstakes

IšverstiShow in original languageSwitched at 170K to Pennzoil 5W-30 High Mileage. 1) Up until 168K I had been using Pennzoil or Castrol synthetics. 2) I just changed at Toyota: – plugs – coils – plenum gasket – valve cover gaskets – front VVT solenoid – coolant NOTE: Pictures of front valve-train show differential heating/drain-back of oil.

Right-hand side to left (towards timing gear) the color is “med-amber” to “brown,” no sludge, but some “crusting”; above average in cleanliness, BUT what appears to be a design error in even oil flow.

First highway trip after work by Toyota dealer engine used 3qt of Castrol 5W-30syn in 700mi. Stuck ring?! (Note: most it ever burned was 0. 5-1. 2qt synthetic in 3,000-3,500mi; have owned the little truck since 48K) Post atypical oil consumption: 3) Put in Castrol 10W-60 syn.

NO oil loss on road trip of 900mi. ZERO loss. 4) Followed with 4:1 Pennzoil 5W-30 High Mileage + Marvelous Mystery Oil. (rolled around town for 1 week to clean out engine –first time) 6) Changed oil to correct weight & filter (Penn 5W-30 High Mileage + Toyota factory filter as usual) 7) Second road-trip to same destination, 900mi.

ZERO oil consumption. NOTE: Toyota mechanic and I know the engine design and sludge problems associated with this engine class. My oil change interval since purchasing has always been 2,500-3,500mi. plus I change the coolant per the recommended time/mileage.

Main engine seals replaced at 90K with timing belt. (Did not replace valve guide seals. ) MY MECHANIC (former NASCAR Master Tech, now with Toyoda’r, recommended switching to conventional high-mileage oil to see it is would solve the recent consumption.

Switching to Pennzoil appears to have done just that –no consumption. CAUTION: I have been told that once you switch to high-mileage oils to never switch to non-high-mileage oils. Apparently the oil seals once they “swell” need the additives to maintain that state.

Heck. Pennzoil High Mileage seems to work and it is totally inexpensive! The Toyota oil filters are good for 7,500mi. I think I will just drop the oil every 2,000-2,500 at the local outdoor place before changing the filter at the 5K mark.

I am off the extreme long life of keeping my precious Red Line ester-based OR Pennzoil Ultimate synthetic oil in the pan for some extend period (which for me was 4K/oil change). —I am just going to do the OCD guy-thing and change my oil every 2,000 with this Pennzoil.

Why not?!! -David in NC 3/2016.

IšverstiShow in original languageIt all began when procrastinating for exams or not quite wanting to settle down a do my taxes. It was a situation of “Let me do something useful before getting back to the real work.

” Bob’s the Oil Guy was introduced to me by tech friends and it has always had some degree of informative factual knowledge. However, what it really was missing was a definitive, comparative TOP 10 list for gas/diesel/marine/aviation.

(That’s really all we need. Certainly it is interesting to now know that products like Red Line use fully synthetic base stocks, and that some filters have X-micron filtration, but for 95% of situations we just want the go-to products which will give us better/best lubrication and long-term peace of mind.

Pennzoil: after an adolescent tour of competing oil brands, I have settled on a simple rule of thumb for all of our family cars: (1) use factory filters (2) change the oil every 2,500-3,500mi, because most people will not actually do it until 4,00-5,000mi (3) use conventional oils (4) if you are actually changing at a 2,500-3,500 interval, then don’t bother changing the filter each time -use it twice (most factory filters for gas engines are rated for 5,000-7,500mi) (5) Main point – quality conventional oil, frequently changed, beats any fancy ideas of $15-20/qt synthetics.

IšverstiShow in original languageI have been using pennzoil high mileage oil in almost all of my vehicle’s since 2006 and i will continue to due so. Back in 2006 i bought my first car a 1992 mitsubishi eclipse 1.

8. When i started it up for the first it poured smoke from the exhaust pipe, but for 500 bucks i didnt expect much. My father told me to go down to the auto parts store an get the supplies to due a full tune up.

Standing in the autoparts store looking confuse at the massive selection of oils i asked one of the clerks which oil would be best for my vehicle, he told me ” anything but quaker, how many miles are on your car? ” i told him 147xxx.

He then asked if that was my car that had the mushroom cloud follow me in and i reluctantly said yes. He then told me to grab a big gold bottle of pennzoil. The funny part is that after about 1000 miles i noticed the smoke started to go away.

After 3000 miles it would only smoke lightly at idle and 2 oil changes later you would swear the motor had been completely overhauled. I have never been more impressed with a product. I have 3 vehicles now and all of them use some type of Pennzoil product.

My 94 Acura Integra GSR i purchased from the original owner 3 years ago. Since i have owned it has never had anything other than Pennzoil high mileage and it runs like silk.

Two days shipping, just as advertised and perfect for my 2007 Honda Odyssey with 298K miles on it that never had a full synthetic oil in it. I change oil twice a year using oem filter and never had a single hiccup yet! Still on second set of timing belt and water pump.

I trust Mobil oil only, my 2003 Lexus GX470 had 375K miles when I sold it and it ran perfect with Mobil1 syn oil changes every 10K miles.

It’s just multigrade motor oil and it lubricates as expected. What more can be said? What’s convenient is one 5-gal container and not five 1-quart bottles. Gets the oil change job done quicker. And’ afterwards, you have a “new” empty container to put your used oil in for the next oil change.

Also, the Walmart price was best I found at the time. No shipping cost – I picked it up at the nearby store.

the best brand in motor oil from my experience and reading many reviews. This particular type has the great value as well. Using it in my Wrangler till it hits 75K. Plan to switch to mobile super high mileage thereafter.

this oil by far is the best for my diesel engine. what i do not like is getting weekly, bi-weekly emails with continual free offers from the company when you buy something. it is not like i need to buy oil every few weeks.

but i continue to get offers. why not make a list of free offers so when you do buy product and meet a certain dollar value — you have a list of promotional material to choose from as a free gift from Amsoil.

Pick one!!! i would of liked the bottle koozies – which were offered after i placed my order. i did get free shipping which is appreciated, but the continual marketing promotional offers need to be addressed and consolidated.

no complaints with the product at all.

I used Amsoil years ago in my 02 durmax and saw instant fuel millage increase and then I switched to shell rotella t6 synthetic, thinking I would get the same performance. I could never get over 17mpg with rotella t6 so I switched back to Amsoil and again I saw an instant increase of 2mpg and now I get 19 unloaded.

I also saw a significant increase pulling my 8,000 lbs camper. I recently pulled through Cherokee Nc and through the Smokey Mt. Pkwy into Gatlinburg Tn. I averaged 13. 5 mpg ! I will never use anything else in my durmax again.

Only oil I use in my 2002 7. 3 diesel superduty 3/4 truck. 234K miles so far. Love the longer oil change intervals. Hope to keep this truck on the road for many more miles. I have driven it into Canada and all over the Pacific Northwest.

A great piece of mind knowing I have the added protection. I can easily recommend this oil for others.