20 Best Oil For Turbo Engines (2022 Updated)

Bought 10 gallons for one oil change and it Performed well. But I just bought 10 gal of Castrol GTX 15w40 because it’s rated ck-4 were the Valvoline blue is a cj-4. Not quite as advanced as Castrol GTX 15w40 and surpasses Cummins specs and recommendations.

But not a huge deal. Valvoline is a good diesel oil.

I purchased 3 Gallons of this Valvoline oil to blend with some Valvoline 5W-30 conventional mineral oil for a summer oil change in HOT Florida. This Valvoline Premium Blue is rated API-SM, CJ-4 which allows me to use it in a gasoline engine.

I have an older SUV that calls for 5W-30 or 10W-30 for year round use and this oil has a thicker viscosity to protect in the extreme heat and humidity on long, sustained, high speed highway runs as well as idling in traffic jams and short trips.

all classified as SEVERE DRIVING situations. Valvoline makes a Premium Blue in 10W-30 and a Full Synthetic in 5W-40 for Diesel and mixed fleet applications, like the 15W-40 that I purchased, but it is not readily available at the retail level for consumers.

I am very pleased with the performance of the Valvoline 15W-40, Premium Blue for Sheer Stability and very strong detergents to keep my engine clean under all severe driving conditions. However, I wish that the other Valvoline Diesel Oils were available to be purchased on the retail level.

especially walmart. com. Shipping from Walmart. com was very Fast, Carefully packed and it was Free since this product was not carried in any of the local Walmart stores withing 100 miles of my home.

I hope Walmart will carry the other Diesel Oils from Shell, Valvoline, Mobil and Castrol in the 10W-30 conventional weight and the 5W-40 in the full synthetic weights. If Walmart. com did carry these oils in other weights, word would get out fast and that would give more people an opportunity to try these great oils from Valvoline and other oil companies.

Castrol Edge is some of the best oil in the market and far the superior oil you can commonly find in store. Used this in a 2006 CRV with the economy based VTEC k24 variant. Honda engines with VTEC solenoids function far better with high quality oils.

I just wish I could get 0w30 as I live in the 46th parallel and cold weather is a good 7 months here. Pleased with the product no doubt.

Let’s see. I have changed the oil in my Father’s cars since the 60s. And now mine. We used to use the Pennzoil 30 weight back in the day, but since Castro Syntec came around, I use nothing else. I only have two examples since I drive my vehicles till the wheels fall off.

1. Brand new 1989 Geo Metro with a 3 cylinder Susuki motorcycle engine. I think I would still be driving that car now, if in the 2000s, two hurricanes didn’t attack and kill my car while it was parked in Fort Pierce when I was riding a ship for the Air Force in the western Pacific.

It had over 270K when they towed it away. My Father gave me his 1995 Lincoln Towncar since he wanted to upgrade my Mother’s car before he died. It now has over 355K and runs great still! Take care of you car and you will get your money’s worth.

As they say: “Mike Drop”.

I like the idea of the titanium in there but mostly I just trust Castrol oil I put it in my eclipse 3. 8 and and my friends q50 and I’m no longer using the mobile 1 on anything it seems like the budget brand at this point.

I’m back in the castrol camp and changing my own oil out cause more and more the local lube shops are wrecking people’s engines by putting on wrong filters and probably not even the right oil… the sad state of American decline is evident everywhere in Boston ma.

This Mobil1 15W-50 review specifically applies to Royal Enfield “Iron Cylinder Engine” Bullet 350cc and 500cc pre-unit singles (with separate gearbox and primary drive) and to other older British motorcycles with separate primary drives, especially those with pushrod-operated valves, like older Triumphs and Nortons.

Mobil1 15W-50 contains a very desirable higher “old fashioned” Zinc anti-wear additive package than all other “weights” of Mobil 1 oil suitable for old British bikes, except for their far more expensive “special” V-Twin blend.

The zinc levels found in the various weights and blends of Mobil1 can be found on their website at https://mobiloil. com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide. pdf. The Mobil1 15W-50 contains 1,300 parts per million of zinc, which is near optimal for those older motors.

Unfortunately, zinc additive levels for the more modern SAE ratings (SM, SN, “SN Plus”) have been reduced greatly so as to reduce harm to modern catalytic converters. However, older vehicles really need that extra bit of zinc.

Accordingly, I have found that a “cocktail” of Mobil1 15W-50 with just about 2 ounces of a product called “Lucas Oil Products 10063 Engine Break-In Oil Additive – Plus Zinc”, available from Walmart as an “In-Store Pickup” by special order (see: https://www.

walmart. com/ip/Lucas-Oil-Products-10063-Engine-Break-In-Oil-Additive-Plus-Zinc/44819568) is a demonstrably near perfect blend for my 2005 Royal Enfield, bringing those zinc levels up over the ideal 1,500 parts per million really required by those old thumpers.

Tappet adjustment to compensate for regular wear of cam followers and related valve gear is a common and very regularly required maintenance task on older British bikes. My Enfield’s tappets have not required even a single adjustment since I started using this brew, well over 5,000 miles and more than a year ago.

This simply demonstrates that there has been no measurable wear whatsoever in the normally “wearingest” bits of the engine. That’s good, right? Bear in mind, this recommendation does NOT apply to later model (2010 or later) Unit Construction Engine Royal Enfield Bullets or to other bikes whose engines and transmissions share the same oil.

It might make one’s clutch too “slippy. ” But if you’ve got an old pre-’90s British single or twin whose primary drive runs its own separate slippery goo, then do try my cocktail! Mobil1 15W-50 is certainly good enough just on its own, but adding a little dash of just a couple of ounces of that Lucas Zinc Additive (no need to overdo it) is really superlative, and won’t break the bank.

I have a kia sorrento 2012 and I decided use mobile 1 oil ( it requires 5w-20). after about 2000 miles it started to show me the engine light with P0014 code. In the beginning showed it rarely and still took that of buy it self.

I take it in different shops but they couldn’t find what it was. And by the end of 5000 miles of the oil it kept the engine light on all the time. I got worried because it looked as a big problem that no one can find what it was and everyone was “experimenting” with what it might have been.

He after 5100 miles I changed the oil of the car and this time I tried Castrol. The car hasn’t done the problem even once after 3000 miles with the new oil. I even googled if there is a known problem about that but I couldn’t find it, BUT what I found was that a lot of people that had the P0014 code had used Mobile 1 oil.

Very disappointed especially when you know how much you have spent to find out what was wrong with you car but that actually was just a bed and expensive oil. Never again Mobil 1 products.

Previously, Shell included foil seals inside their bottle caps for Rotella so the purchaser could verify the contents had not been tampered with. When I opened my latest purchase there were no seals.

(Had someone used the good oil and replaced it with a cheap substitute?) I called the phone number listed on the bottle and was told Shell is no longer using seals but has gone to a cap which is supposed to split at the bottom the first time it is opened.

The split is very subtle and hard to detect. Might be a good reason to consider a more secure brand.

My 1979 Volvo 244 DL with 231000 km has been treated to Shell Rotella T4 10W30 since Sept. 7, 2019, odometer at 215477. The overhead cam/valve sound is quieter at 3000 R. P. M. on the 400 series highways at 100 km/h.

The rear crankshaft oil seal has stopped seeping oil this year. I used to use synthetic oil. I can experience that Shell Rotella T4 10W30 oil really agrees with the 2. 1 L, B21 A naturally aspirated gasoline engine.

These are long-lived engines, and anything I can do to prolong its life is appreciated. Thanks, Shell engineers, for the extra protection of Z. D. D. P. for the camshaft lobes!.

After hearing and reading rave reviews on this oil, and reading posts about it on oil-focused sites and forums, I thought I would give it a try. Im running it in my 04 Grand Caravan with the 3. 3L V6.

Running a half-and-half mix of 5w-40 and 15w-40. Let me say this, my van has never ran so well just by changing the brand and type of oil I am using. It currently has 209k on it and runs like a top. I switched to diesel oil because it has a higher film strength, better wear packs, and better detergent packs than gas oil does.

I want my van to run as long as possible. I am one of those people that drives a vehicle until the wheels fall off, so they say. Ive used other brands before and they have worked well, however, since changing to Rotella T6, my van has more power and response than I ever remember it having.

Rotella and other Shell products will be my only brand now. Stocked up on quite a bit of Rotella in all its major types, T4, T5, T6.

I own a towing company. We are classified as emergency and NEED every truck to start, run well, and last a long duration. Over the years weve tried everything. Currently, we run older 7. 3 diesels and new 6.

7 diesels. There is hands down a HUGE difference in cold starting and gas mileage, and performance. So much easier for the pumps, and a smother running engine. Its no joke, this oil has been used since it came out in out trucks, and our 7.

3’s have zero internal issues with between 500k and 800k miles on some of the engines. Our 21′ and 22′ model year trucks come from the dealership new, oil drained, and t6 put in to make sure the engines get the best protection right from the start.

Yeller Towing, Elk River.

I was running T6 in my Kubota 7040 when I had a wreck while transporting it back from the hayfield. It flipped on its top after I flipped the whole rig over an embankment onto it ms top. The tractor has lugs on the starter that got crossed over by the baler control box and it started while upside down which caused it to “runaway” running entirely on its own engine oil that was being sucked around the pistons becayse it was upside down.

It revved completely off the charts and continued to stay revved like this for nearly 3 minutes until I could get the hood up and get rags shoved down the intake to choke it out. I finally got everything flipped back onto its wheels and poured almost 2 gallons of oil back into the engine to replace what had blown out the exhaust when I wrecked.

Put a hot battery in and it started and has been ran nearly 200 hours since. I feel that the rotella T6 is the one and only thing that saved this engine. The block was so hot when it was running away that it was glowing white on the manifold.

I believe that had I been using conventional oil that It would’ve cooked that engine. Maybe I’m wrong but it’s definitely had to help.

Use it in my boat as marine engines run full load all the time. When cruising, that means 60-80% throttle, and occasionally 100% – something you’ll never find in a car over time. I change it annually, way before its time, just because the boat is stored for 6 months.

I use product in my first edition ’08 Challenger SRT8 with 100k miles. My car runs at 230 degrees and when racing at 125-140mph it rises to 245 degrees. Never have inexperienced oil breakdown nor has my kid (my Challenger) ever gotten sick nor do i have engine vibration at idle due to mileage.

Oil pressures are also always strong and on point. I highly recommend this 50 w oil for high performance engines with high mileage and wear since once up to temperature (always let your engine get up to temperature which suck a thick oil b4 flooring it) the viscosity still remains thick.

I have heavy equipment and diesel trucks that require this oil and we were unable to find it this fall. We have purchased it at Sams for many years. I finally found it again at Sams and got enough to do the long needed oil changes.

Thank you for getting it back in stock. Its the only oil I can use.

Never had an oil related problem in any of my engines while running Delo 400. I change at or before manufacture’s recommended intervals. Oil prices have gotten expensive, but they’re still cheaper than engines.

Outstanding lubrication for my diesel motor engine and it’s diesel motor generator.

I am no scientist, and I can’t give you a scientific review about this oil. All I can say is that I tries this product in my Kia Spectra 2009 EX 4 cylinder engine. The engine ran smooth, the oil kept its integrity and by the time I changed it the color of the oil was a light brown cinnamon color, no as dark as other motor oils I have tried in the past.

The only downside of this motor oil is that you have to check your engine if you do long intervals of oil change. I do mine every 8000 miles and even though I check the dipstick every week, I did notice a drop of a 1/4 of a quart at 4000 miles.

I purchase my gas engine oil thru GoVets and have had nothing but good experiences. Mag one full synthetic gas engine oil is as good as any other full synthetic out there and better than most.

It rates in the top 10 of full synthetic oil,when you study the 10 best engine oils.

This oil brought my dog back to life. It was amazing how he’s been dead as hell for 8 years then a crusty dog skeleton just climbs out of the ground like that. Highly recommend if you’ve ever killed something or someone I’m not judging.

Brings em right back.

My vehicle has 190k miles on it. I was using full synthetic but since I’ve recently retired I’ve been trying to save money. The combo deal on the oil and filter was comparable to the big box store only I earned rewards on this purchase.

Boom! Winner!.

I’ve been using royal purple for a while. Just did an oil change at 7500kms to get ready for camping season and the old oil looked brand new. It didn’t have the purple colour but had a nice amber colour, I can’t believe how well this oil holds up.

I am very particular about doing oil changes 5-7500kms because it’s cheap, easy maintenance. This oil can probably go triple that number but to each his own. PS, anyone stating this oil improves gas mileage is wrong.

They either needed an oil change BADLY or they were using the incorrect grade. Motor oil alone cannot increase fuel economy as it has nothing to do with air/fuel mixture in a 4 stroke fuel injected engine.

IšverstiShow in original languageI’ve been using XPR in my Mazda RX7 race car for several years now. It is one of several oils approved for the rotatory engine. We see 260 degrees oil temp during the course of a race and XPR holds up very well.

Two days shipping, just as advertised and perfect for my 2007 Honda Odyssey with 298K miles on it that never had a full synthetic oil in it. I change oil twice a year using oem filter and never had a single hiccup yet! Still on second set of timing belt and water pump.

I trust Mobil oil only, my 2003 Lexus GX470 had 375K miles when I sold it and it ran perfect with Mobil1 syn oil changes every 10K miles.

It’s just multigrade motor oil and it lubricates as expected. What more can be said? What’s convenient is one 5-gal container and not five 1-quart bottles. Gets the oil change job done quicker. And’ afterwards, you have a “new” empty container to put your used oil in for the next oil change.

Also, the Walmart price was best I found at the time. No shipping cost – I picked it up at the nearby store.

the best brand in motor oil from my experience and reading many reviews. This particular type has the great value as well. Using it in my Wrangler till it hits 75K. Plan to switch to mobile super high mileage thereafter.

I use this twice a year changing out all my motorcycles oil. Never had a problem, last as long if not longer then the more expensive motorcycle oils for tappets. I can tell I need a change when the gear dogs click louder than normal.

I get about 2500 miles out of a change in my old air cooled shared sump bikes. I’m sure I could go longer, oil still looks nice when I drain it. I just prefer to change it at manufacturer intervals. I then use the used oil in my mowers for a half season of more.

Have one mower that’s been going strong for 11 years, still doesn’t smoke and starts every time. Wouldn’t trust anything else in my old fleet of tappet head bikes.

Used this oil for years and find it to be the top of the line in motor oil. Diesel and gas engines, makes no difference. Good detergent qualities. Non-synthetic. Keeps engines clean. All around great motor oil.

Best oil for high performance a Minis and BMW. Synthetic oil specification recommended by these two manufacturers and my engine rebuilder. In the case of Mini Coopers, an oil catch can plumbed back to the crankcase recycles the oil usually lost by the pcv system and keeps it from depositing on the intake side of the turbocharger and intake manifold.

I have a 2017 Subaru STI so far have been happy with Motul products. Even after 3,000 hard miles and long warm ups on cold morning, oil looks brand new when coming out. I’m pretty impressed, even other brand oil, like the Subaru OEM oil does not come out this clean.

Pair it with a Quick drain, and your set.

Good quality fully synthetic oil, reasonable price. I’ve been using this oil in my Mazda 3 mps for the last few services without problem, I service it every 6k and with the price being reasonable I see no reason to extend my service intervals.