20 Best Oil For Turbocharged Engines (2022 Updated)

I have a 2014 VW Passat TDI and sent the oil in for analysis to see how it was wearing. I couldn’t believe all the low wear numbers. Way below the averages for my engine and mileage. My car’s DPF, EGR, and SCR system fell off which is why I’m not using the VW 507 approved oil by the way.

If you have a TDI with the emissions still intact, I would recommend using this oil instead of the “approved” VW 507 oils. The oil thickness once warm (100* celcuis spec) is not much higher than the 507 approved oils.

Think of it as the TDT is a “thinner” 40 weight, and the VW 507 oils a “thicker” 30 weight oil. The ash # is still low enough to use in anything with a DPF. I have switched over to the Mobil TDT in all 6 of my Diesels I own.

The anti-wear additive is very robust.

I went into the O’Reilly Auto Parts in Edgewood, New Mexico, with the sales ad marked so I could purchase the jug of Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil and then send in for the $10 mail-in rebate. I looked on the shelves, but could not find the oil.

I took the ad to the counter and showed it to the lady there. She went back and brought out two jugs of oil. She could not find the rebate forms. After draining the oil from my car, I remembered about the form, so I looked at O’Reilly’s rebate page.

The rebate, I found there, was for FIVE quart jugs of oil, not the FOUR quart jugs I purchased. Since I’m 15 miles from the store and the drained car is my only transportation, I had to use 7 quarts to fill my crankcase.

Since the special has run out, I cannot now buy two additional quarts of oil to use the rebate form. I’m not happy.

Brought a used 2002 Ford Taurus 3. 0 SOHC SES in June 2015. Vehicle had 96K miles at the time. Started using M1 HM about six months later. I replaced oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket, and recently both valve cover gaskets, and radiator during this time.

So, I started using M1 High Mileage and put conventional oil in my rear-view window and ain’t looked back!! Now the vehicle has 155k miles and engine runs so quite I barely hear it running! Engine runs cool, starts right up, good acceleration, and low oil consumption with no leaks! I check my oil about 5k and check it again at 7k.

At 75k, oil is changed; and I noticed that the oil is still thick (compared to conventional oil which I noticed is thin and “black”) and has a light brown huge. No sludge forming in oil filter which is a M1 performance filter.

I had a previous Ford Taurus and had two head gasket replacements and car would occasionally run hot. Eventually, I got rid of the car and learned that conventional oils loose their velocity with can cause an engine to overheat and develop heavy sludge in the engine etc.

Bottom line: Once you go synthetic oil, you never go back. Synthetic costs more but cheaper than having a head job done or replacing an engine.

IšverstiShow in original languageIt’s fully synthetic, and I keep a quart on hand for topping off. Being able to buy in the big jugs does save a little money, but not much. Quarts are easier when topping off because I can keep it in the car.

Maybe VW/Audi can figure out how to make an engine that doesnt sip motor oil. but that’s a different issue so I’ll digress.

IšverstiShow in original languageI have an 2019 Audi Q7, Premium plus turbo charged and I would use noting else. It last a long time dose not burn out too fast dose not get sludgy Manufacturer recommended oil to use, can run 10,000 miles before a next oil change.

IšverstiShow in original languageI drive a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport 2. 4 Liter, and when you get out of the car (while it’s running), you can hear the lifters tick away. I’ve been using Mobile 1 Extended Performance 5W20 full synthetic, changing it every 10,000 miles since I drive 95% of the time on the highway.

To save a few dollars as I am a college student living on a budget, I changed the oil to Castrol Edge 5W40 full synthetic at the local VW dealer. NO MORE TICKING, ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE A DREAM (so quiet, other than the fans coming on very high because it was 95 degrees out), and no issues whatsoever jumping from a watery weight oil to a thicker more durable oil.

Until the car dies, I’m using Castrol Edge 5W40.

After using this in both our Q7 TDI engines, we won’t be using any other oil but this Liqui Moly. It really keeps the engines and oil passages clean and they both run so very quiet now, and for a TDI that’s really saying something.

I have to swear my allegiance to Liqui Moly after adding two liters to my sisters oil guzzling Kia Sorento (4 cyl GDI engine), which has steadily been increasing it’s oil consumption appetite to multiple quarts per 1000 miles, like many other Kia engines out there.

I checked her engine & PCV valve; no external leaks. It was making noise due to being so low on oil, so I topped it off with my store of this Liqui Moly 5w30 4200 to keep her from seizing the engine.

A week later, her hubby flew in and decides to get the oil changed on Kia prior to driving it back home (5hr drive). (I’m thinking, “I just dropped two liters of my TDI’s super-oil into that sinking ship of an engine, and then they drain it a week later.

such a travesty”. ) Turns out they got home, checked the oil again, and it hadn’t used any oil during their 5hr drive home. this, after only running the LM 4200 oil in the car for a week, which was apparently enough time for the LM detergents/additives package to do their magic on those Kia oil control rings and get them back in the game.

This jives w/TSB from Kia indicating dealers are injecting a cleaning solution directly into the cylinders, leaving it to soak/work overnight, then evacuate it and drain/change the oil, then retest again for oil consumption rate, etc.

All I did was add the Liqui Moly to top hers off, and it did the rest, rapidly. 🙂 No more oil consumption problems in the Kia Sorento, which had appeared to be a ‘goner’ prior to adding this oil. I really had no idea it was this effective, but that’s why I love it.

it works hard and you get your $$ worth buying this oil.

Been using this oil for the past 3 or 4 oil changes, so just over a year. It appears to be doing what it’s supposed to, i. e. lubricate the engine. Now, what I absolutely LOVE about this product is the container.

two handles, one for carrying, one for use during pouring/filling. A wonderful extendable pour spout, brilliant! There is even a reminder sticker attached to the container that you can remove and attach to your windshield 😱.

Mobil Super is a good oil. Most all oils have to meet a standard specification so most brands would be adequate for your car. Making sure that you use the right viscosity is more important than which brand you choose.

Mobil has a large R&D budget, so they can offer superior additives in their oils that will help to protect your engine. The only complaint that I have is with their oil change video showing the oil change on a Corvette.

They drive the Corvette up on car ramps, then open the oil pan drain plug which is located on the front of the oil pan. With the front of the car tilted up, it is impossible to drain all of the old oil out of the pan.

So there is probably a whole quart of dirty oil left in the pan. I would expect professionals to do a better job than that!.

I’ve owned many cars and this is the only oil I use . It comes in different weight (thickness) for different motors . Mobil oils are constantly formulating new and improved products

It’s the correct grade of oil for my Atlas. It meets the VW motor oil spec for my Atlas. It makes the rods stay in the block of my Atlas’s motor. It makes the pistons stay in the head of my Atlas’s motor.

So I guess it’s ok. For real tho: I’ve never sent an oil sample off to a lab for analysis, so I have no idea how the oil itself compares to, say, Amazon Basics motor oil. But I do like that it comes with an oil change reminder sticker right on the bottle, that’s handy.

Also the spout that pulls out of the cap is intuitive and convenient. So skip the oil that comes in a boring bottle and buy this instead.

I’ve tried many synthetic oils in my cars, from Mobil1 to Castrol to Fuchs. The Synthoil seems to do the best. It is the least discolored, cleanest, and keeps its viscosity over time. The German-made syn oils definitely wear the best.

Synthoil performs and lasts just a hair better than the others.

Audi A4 B7 2. 0T quattro 135,551 miles. I have done 12k miles, and three changes with Liqui-moly Syn Premium 5W-40 motor oil and could not be happier with this product. Previously used Castrol Edge synthetic.

Along with change-out of the HPFP cam follower, I have pretty much eliminated excess tappet noise from the top end. The car runs better than ever. For some reason Audi’s just love this stuff. Smooth-smooth-baby! BTW- I believe there was some intake valve fouling on the Castrol which has disappeared since using LM.

The idle has gradually smoothed and the car seems to have better low-end grunt now. Also, I have been buying LM through ECS because of the excellent price and fast shipping. Outstanding! Kent.

Great Product, my Ford F-350 Super Duty turbo Diesel, runs much better with Royal Purple, a little expensive But well worth it. Only downfall is i ordered it from Oryleys site said I’d receive it in 2 day’s which was perfect because it would be on Saturday, so I’d have No down time, but i never received it Saturday and didn’t get Any message telling me, i had to do a track on it and it showed that i wouldn’t be getting it until NEXT Wednesday.

So it was a week to get my order instead of 2 day’s. Wasn’t happy at all.

Royal Purple gets a LOT of hate in the car community. I’ve always been a fan of royal purples products and I’ve been somewhat impressed so far. I used BMW Genuine 0w-30 in my N54 (as recommended by BMW for my N54) and I noticed my oil started burning, pretty fast actually.

I’d get grey/white smoke from the oil burning out the exhaust on startup. After 3100 miles I changed the oil again, but this time used this oil alongside a mann OEM filter. My white smoke and oil burning is gone! It’s been a few hundred miles, and no loss of oil.

Engine runs smooth, and is a great buy. This stuff is not as expensive as people say, and especially if you buy it on ECS!.

Ever since Royal Purple entered the market it has been a top performer. I’ve used in all my vehicle and never had any issues. In some of my older rides it even improved my MPG by making my engine work less.

Everyone puts other oils in their GTI’s because VW says so. I actually called VW spent a long time on the phone getting to someone who could answer my oil requirements questions. Finally after about the 6th or 7th person telling me almost the samething I accepted the answer.

In short they dont officially recommend any specific oil anymore, all top tier oils do just about the same unless the have additives to help run better.

This stuff is very slippery. Works well with engines needing extra lubrication. My pistons are very big and her cylinder walls sadly have seen many miles but with this lubricant I was able to get full combustion.

With a block my size this had me gliding like a pro.

I have used Castrol GTX Engine Oil in my vehicles since the 1980’s and have never had an engine oil related failure. I trust Castrol Engine Oil’s to keep my car’s & truck’s going. No problems what more can you ask for from an engine oil ? J.

R.

I have owned diesel cars and trucks for over 25 years and have used Mobil 1 oil for more than 35 years. Oil technology has advanced so much in the last few years and Mobil 1 has been at the forefront.

I really like this 5W/40 full synthetic version. I’ve noticed quicker and quieter starts with my trucks especially in colder temperatures. I still follow all recommended service intervals and have noticed a reduction of soot load in the oil over the years.

My oil temperature also stays more consistent with this oil. Oil samples also show reduced bearing wear. I’m certainly changing the oil far sooner than I need to, but doing an oil change is much simpler and costs hundreds if not thousands of dollars less than a repair due to not changing it.

Even though it isn’t recommended for a 7. 3 Diesel I’ve been using it 4 years now. My truck loves the stuff. It starts much easier on cold mornings not even plugged in you can tell a big difference from the standard 15-40 Diesel oil.

I pull a 10,000 lb trailer from Ogden Utah to Aguilar Colorado once or twice a year. I haven’t had any oil related issues at all. Starts and runs quieter with great oil pressure and no oil leaks period.

I change the oil once a year now 5000 -7000 miles is normal. The truck has 168000 miles on it so it isn’t a high mileage truck but it gets used for pulling. It might not be recommended for the 7. 3 but my truck runs better with it.

Doesn’t matter the weather conditions either. cold or hot this oil makes my truck run better. I don’t know much about oils I just wanted to try it cause I had slow cranking issues in cold weather here.

Won’t go back to 15-40 stuff unless I can’t get the 5-40.

IšverstiShow in original languageWe stuck a bore scope down and everything looks brand new still. I will admit I change every 6000 miles when I know we can go longer but for an 07 5. 9 common rail the 15 year old engine looks great for hauling a 14k lb 5th wheel for most of its life and miles.

IšverstiShow in original languageUsed this in my gasoline engine. After purchasing my used 2001 Nissan Xterra V6 I noticed a little engine noise. I messed with a few different oils and noticed how picky this engine is with different viscosities.

To make a long story short, finally I tried the 5w-40 tdt and I couldn’t be happier. The engine runs like new, smooth as butter, has plenty of power and is quieter than ever. For smooth, quiet operation with maximum protection I would use this oil in anything requiring 5w-30 , 10w-30 or 10w-40.

IšverstiShow in original languageI have a 2005 Silverado 2500 with LLY duramax diesel. I have used mobile 1 turbo diesel since new. I now have 351000 miles without ANY problems, truck still runs like new, I have original injectors and turbo, I change oil using vehicle oil monitor, usally at 10000 miles between changes.

I also use mobile 1 synthetic trans fluid and mobile 1 75w 90 synthetic gear oil. Never had a rebuild on trans or differential. I wouldn’t use anything else.

IšverstiShow in original languageFirst off I must say that I have used multiple different oils from my first car until now. I have never had a real preference but rather whatever the particular vehicle I owned recommended.

I recently tried this Quaker State All Mileage Motor Oil for a similar reason. I ended up having some left over which I used in my tractor. As far as my vehicle goes I can’t say, at least at this time, that it’s much different.

I can say that it made a big difference in my tractor. It just started to get cold in the mornings and at night in the North East. My tractor always starts but cracked for several seconds. When I used this oil it started much faster.

I presume it has something to do with the synthetic blend but it sure feels smoother cranking especially in the cold. I’m more than pleased with this result and hope this performance continues through the life of the oil.

As an added benefit it is able to be used longer as well. I don’t mind turning wrenches but prefer to use my machine for work rather than work on the machine!.

IšverstiShow in original languageGreat reasonably prices synthetic oil brand for your car. Synthetic oil is great for your car but if you have a high mileage car, definitely look into quaker states high mileage synthetic formula which is around the same price maybe a few dollars more.

I love the consistency of the oil and can definitely tell the difference on how smooth ur engine and car runs on good synthetic oil. Again, I prefer high mileage synthetic oil because it seem like the oil is clearer and lighter on the car which usually is better as ur car gets older.

Good thing Quaker state also carries high mileage synthetic! I got a great discounted deal in store on this product but in general cheaper than the particular brand I buy. Take care of ur car and use synthetic blend and make sure you check ur caps which usually tell you what type of oil u should buy.

Mine Toyota Camry takes 5w-30.

IšverstiShow in original language100% synthetic oil like the jug says. One brand is the same as the next in my opinion. I buy whatever major brand is on sale at the time. I always buy full synthetic and never synthetic blend.

Although nowhere it is indicated that a blend is 50/50 I think the consumer might think that. It is probably around 10% or maybe 20% of synthetic oil. The consumer pays a premium for synthetic blend while it’s not much difference than the much cheaper than the all natural oil.

I suggest that if the consumer wants a blend then purchase 100% synthetic and full natural oil and mix the 2 together yourself at whatever blend you wish. Personally I see no need to use anything less than full 100% synthetic.

Squash all the old wives tales and use full synthetic. I have been using it for many many years in many different engine without issue. I am a red seal journeyman mechanic.

This oil works great on my mini cooper. had no problems or changes in performance when added. Will only use this.

I’ve been running Valvoline 5w40 Premium Blue Synthetic Diesel Oil since 2014. It’s Cummins approved so I figured why not. I use it in all three of our 6. 7 Cummins, never an issue. It is recommended for temperatures across the spectrum, no need to switch back & forth oil weight from summer to winter oil.

Have used this oil for the past three oil changes (21K miles) and have been impressed. The 5W-40 for my Stage 2 2012 VW GTI seems to make the engine run smoother (less valve chatter at idle) and pull harder when getting on the gas.

I’ve used RedLine 5W-40 Euro blend as well with good results but costs more and seemed to evaporate or burn off more than other brands and weights. With Redline there was always topping off involved.

I live in a Northern climate so I switch to Mobil 1 0W-40 for winter and use 5W-40 for the warmer months. The Liqui-Moly has been a great choice for quality and price point and is my go to oil for Summer.

I even add the LM Ceratec at times—another great product. Just a warning if you’ve never used the oil, the oil is a clear, dark GREEN and not the usual brown one would think oil to be. The oil being colored is a plus if / when identifying leaks or seepage.

We use this in my college sons 2010 Camry with 106K on it. Was my Wife’s before we upgraded her in to a newer car. Been using it since the 1st oil change on the recommendation of my Amsoil Rep. The car has been trouble free engine wise and you all know how hard kids can be on cars.

My son has the understanding that there are no replacement cars for him and he needs to take care of it for the rest of college and beyond. This is inexpensive insurance for me. I also run Amsoil synthetic oil in my 20 year old Ford Superduty with 234k on it so far, again take car of your equipment and you will be rewarded with great service from them.

I recommend Amsoil Products.

I never go as long as the manufacturer says is allowed between oil changes. My current car manual states 10,000 miles or one year. After 2000 mi. I changed to Amsoil Signature. One of the few 0W-30 out there.

I then drove to 5000 and the annual oil change was due. The warranty with the car required one free oil change. The dealer put in the manufacturers oil. In the next 5000 miles I had to add oil. In the next change I switched back to Amsoil Signature.

In about 6000 miles is used less than 1/2 quart of oil. I think the difference is in the quality of the oil. The manufacturer uses some European stuff. It meets the manufacturers requirements but I don’t think it is nearly as good as Amsoil.

I’m a big believer in oil changing. With a new car I change it at 1000 – 2000 miles. I had one truck which had a magnetic drain plug. There were so many shavings it was hard to believe it was a modern engine.

I think it is better to change the oil and filter in the early days. With my current new vehicle, during the warranty period there is a free oil change after 1 year or 10,000 miles. I would never go that long so I had already changed it once to Amsoil 0W-30.

The oil usage rate was reduced dramatically. After my included warranty oil change using the manufacturers recommended oil, the increase in oil consumption was easily noticed. After 5000 miles I changed back to Amsoil, and again the oil consumption is dramatically reduced.

The Amsoil is only slightly more expensive than the recommended oil.