20 Best Oil For Walnut Wood (2022 Updated)

Not a very consistent product on its own. Medium to larger projects require additives, but are sold separately. Sometimes the project comes out great the first shot, sometimes it takes a redo or two.

I see other reviewers that had the same issue even with extender. Oil based stains work far better and don’t require all the fancy additives to get a consistently good and even stain. I’ve been on the fence with this stain.

Smaller projects it can be flawless. Larger projects. I have to say the Lord’s Prayer, Hail Mary, and all kinds of prayers in hopes that it works 😅Sooooo back to oil based stains!.

So this review is not a dig on general finishes. They make great products. Some I swear by. This is not one of them. On bare oak, especially right angles and raised panel doors, almost impossible to get great results which are automatic with oil based.

Raises the grain, dries so fast you have no time to work it out without streaks and blotches. Also does not penetrate worth a dam and leaves very slight grain marks that did not take the stain. I’m an experienced wood worker and have always used oil based stain with stellar results.

After this project is done, I will never use water based again. I’ll deal with the odor and extra time to get good results. Woodwork is a labor of love and worth some extra time.

This stuff was infuriating because its not like oil based where you wipe it on and then wipe it off and have all the time in the world. I tried doing a 36″x47″ panel with this and first i tried hand applying then wipe off and it was already dry so i had no time to wipe off.

Failed. Then i tried spraying from my Fuji Q5 to increase speed and wipe off, again dried too fast and failed. 3rd test i did was fhe magic ticket. Spray it on thin but coat it all and DONT TOUCH IT, and it turns out fantastic, although very dark.

So the key with this stuff is dont listen to can instructions and basically treat it like paint.

I have high hopes for this Tung oil. I have an antique sewing machine that was my grandmother’s and I tried it on the bottom of a drawer. I have before and after photos and I’m impressed with the result.

It’s supposed to penetrate and protect the wood. You can add additional layers after each one dries for a glossier effect. I think this would be great for older pieces or wood that has dried and needs to be rejuvenated.

You can either wipe it on with the grain or brush it on. If you use a brush it will need to be cleaned with mineral spirits. I simply wiped with the grain using a microfiber cloth similar to applying a stain.

I’m very excited to complete the sewing machine and use on a few other heirloom pieces I have. I think they’ll look newer and I love the added protection. It does state that you can reapply on down the road as necessary as the wood will absorb the oil.

I have a beautiful teak outdoor table that has been starting to look worn and I applied two coats of Miniwax Tung oil finish to it and and couldn’t be happier!! The oil penetrated quickly into the wood and it looks and feels like it now has a waterproof finish to it.

It was nice that the wood didnt darken when I applied the oil to the table. The table actually has a few stains on it and the Tung oil basically made them disappear! The table looks brand new even though it probably about 10 years old! The Miniwax Tung oil was very easy to apply, the smell was not offensive and cleanup was a breeze.

Definitely would recommend this easy to use product!!.

Minwax Tung Oil Finish is the best you can buy for your projects. I recently used it on a 180 year old rocking chair after stripping multiple coats of paint from and cleaning. By applying over 15 coats and lightly sanding between each, the chair looks as if it was just created.

With proper preparation and following the directions, the product will provide the best quality end result possible. Clean up is easy with mineral spirits. There is minimal odor, though all tung oil has an odor, but wood workers and restoration people like me enjoy it.

I highly recommend Minwax Tung Oil for a lasting protective finish on your wood projects.

I’ve used stain for years, and never had this many problems. Applied one, extremely thin coat and wiped it off as the instructions said. After 24 hours it is still not dry. Was told by customer support that that was normal because I had to wipe it down with paint thinner, then reapply again to get the desired color.

Nowhere on the can does it state this. Then got their color matched wood putty that says right on the label that it is for nail holes. Put it in a test hole, and in 3 days, it’s as tacky as the day I put it in.

Read the tiny writing on the back and found where it says “non hardening”. I can’t even wrap my head around why you’d even make a product that does not harden. Finally bout a “paintable stainable” wood filler.

To their credit, it sands easily and beautifully uniform if you plan on painting over it. However , it is not stainable as they claim. I put a drop of their darkest stains directly on it, and it still will not uptake the stain and what it does absorb does so in an ugly grainy way that stands out like a sore thumb.

I understand that every company has a doozy every now and again, but this is the worst collection of products I’ve ever used.

We purchased a house in Jersey a few months ago, and after removing carpet found that some of the hardwood floors were in good condition. After sending them down and applying Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, we chose to stain them with Minwax Wood Finish.

I didn’t realize realize how many colors of Minwax Wood Finish there are. We choose a dark with with a hint of blue tint to it. Minwax Wood Finish of really easy to use and goes on well. After applying Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and waiting a couple hours we applied the Minwax Wood Finish.

I didn’t realize that a little actually goes a long way. We will definitely be using Minwax Wood Finish again.

I applied two heavy coats of teak oil, allowing drying between coats. Then, I wiped the excess oil off for the final finish. It took about 8 hours to air-dry and there were some volatile fumes during this period.

I wore gloves when working with the oil, and applied and dried with microfiler cloths. The final product was a beautiful, shiny finish which will protect the wood from drying. My only complaint is that I wish that a smaller volume (e.

g. 1-pint) were available, because I had a lot of product left over.

I was expecting a more shiny glossy finish once I was done with the teak wood on my boat. It took the pale white color out of the wood and turned it more golden brown which is good. The next day of being in the sun, you could hardly tell it was brown the day before so I did a second application and it stayed on a little better.

However, it does not give a shine to the wood which is what I was looking for. May be it is not suppose to and I expected too much out of it.

We have a vintage teak shelving system purchased about 50 years ago. It had never been fully treated before except with occasional furniture polish on accessible and visible pieces. This brightened everything to its original beautiful texture.

Exactly what was needed. Good stuff!.

I use Rubio Monocoat almost exclusively and have done so for almost two years. I am amazed every time I apply this product! It is unbelievably easy to apply and the results are amazing to me! My only question is what the heck do I do with the 64 quarts of other stains, oils, rubs, dips, voodoo dolls, and everything else I have tried and used or tried and cried.

When I think of all the hours I wasted using those other products besides Rubio I. I. well let’s just say it isn’t pretty! However the more I use Rubio Monocoat the more those other unmentionables slowly disappear and I am happy again! I’m even considering using some Cherry Coral on my cat! OK, not really.

But can you imagine how elegant she would look!.

I like the product but the guidance for sanding is no applicable to all species. I use alder a lot for furniture. While technically classified as a hardwood, it’s density is significantly less than, for example, oak, ash or hard maple.

If you sand alder to the recommended grit, the resulting appearance is extremely rough. I found the best results are to sand to 220 (water popping between grits) then water pop after 220 without sanding.

The wood absorbs the finish just fine and leaves a much more attractive finish. My conclusion is that softer wood needs sanding to a higher grit to get satisfactory results.

Was coming to the end of a very large and involved tasting table for a California winery. Normally I would spend a month or so of spraying and sanding down and spraying and sanding down but decided I try something different this time.

This was a table that came from a tree on the land the winery had and they cut it down and seasoned it. Spectacular Black Walnut. Two coats of the Pure Monocoat 2 and it was wow! Fell on my knees at how beautiful it was, how easy it was, how short it took.

Since then finished a kitchen made with a wild grain California Elm and it was equally wow! I’m sold. Of course, I don’t have any idea of longevity of the Monocoat so this review is just for the honeymoon phase of using it.

The negative reviews here I’ve read complain that this doesn’t taste like Walnut/Walnut Oil. This is REFINED WALNUT OIL, and it tastes like it. It is great for sautéing where you might use butter or Ghee but don’t want the heavy butter/Ghee effect or say an olive oil effect.

I much prefer it to avocado or canola. I mostly use it for sautéing and to add to water when making long grain rice. When I want a Walnut dressing oil for salad or steamed veggies I reach for the Roasted Walnut Oil.

VitaCost carries the only brand of Roasted Walnut Oil I’ve seen in grocery stores, the one by Tourangelle.

I use this walnut oil a lot. I use it on salads, mixed with a little olive or toasted walnut oil, dessert baking, furniture polish! I gently heat oil and beat beeswax in to make a finish to restore weathered wood.

Slather on and leave in a warm place; wipe off and polish next day. Beautiful and non-toxic! I appreciate being able to peel the label off the very nice bottles to recycle them. The bottles are pretty enough to use as a bud vase.

I highly recommend this product. I do wish there was an organic option.

This stuff is AMAZING!!! Great product for staining cabinets! This product completely transformed my kitchen! Very high-quality stain. I love the gel consistency, as it makes it much less messy and much easier to apply smoothly and evenly without the need for wiping.

The darkness depends on how many layers you apply. It’s very important to let whatever you are staining to dry completely. If you don’t let the gel dry completely, the stain will not apply to the surface properly.

This product works well and is easy to use, even if your first time staining. I can really recommend this product. I am 100% satisfied with this product and it completely exceeded my expectations.

TranslateShow in original languageJ’ai mélangé cette teinte avec une autre couleur chêne afin d’obtenir un miel doré. En respectant bien les conditions météo pour l’application, j’ai d’abord nettoyé la terrasse en bois exotique au kasher à faible puissance puis après séchage j’ai appliqué l’huile avec un rouleau large à poil ras équipé d’ un manche très pratique pour ne pas se casser le dos.

Les bordures avec un pinceau. Au bout de 10 minutes il faut essuyer au chiffon le surplus d’huile et laisser sécher. Le résultat est super !.

TranslateShow in original languageTrès bon produit mais attention aux rendements annoncé. Sur 20m carré de pin Douglas (coeur et aubier) sec j’ai utilisé 2. 5 litres pour la première couche. Je suis obligé de recommander du produit pour finir ma première couche et faire la deuxième pour mes 30m carré de terrasse.