20 Best Oil To Prevent Rust (2022 Updated)

I send blasted my Jeep frame with the wet sandblasting kit from Power eagle and it instantly flash rusted as it uses water along with sand to blast down to the bare metal. Rust is absolutely what I did not want right after I blast it down bare metal but as it was only flash rust after I used the cleaner and degreaser and rinsed it off I hit the entire frame with the metal prep solution and was absolutely dumbfounded.

The metal prep solution devoured The Flash rust and etched the metal back to a very light gray color. This was a huge relief because I didn’t know how I was going to proceed with the entire frame flash rusted.

Then I was ready to do my first coat. I brushed the first coat of black matte on and it took approximately four to five hours to get to the point where it was more dry than wet but khaki and yet not sticky.

Then I did the second coat in Gray so that I could tell where I had started and left off in order to make sure that I got full coverage. I spilled a little on the top of a job site box which enabled me to test its abrasion and impact resistance the next day.

Approximately 12 hours later I chiseled at it with a screwdriver (not shatp, (just normal) and no penetration down to the middle and no scuffing of the por-15. Then I beat on it lightly with a ball peen hammer and same result.

Then I hit it with hey cordless drill and wire wheel which scuffed it a little bit but not much. Definitely enough to take your skin off and draw blood. For my last test I used a 4 inch grinder with a grinding wheel and just bumping it caused very minor scuffs.

I have to really lean into it to get the grinding wheel to take any of it off. I think this is probably the best protective coating I’ve ever used. I still have to do the truck cab front clip Hood fenders and bed and I am certain that I’ll have have the same or better results there too.

Seems significantly more effective than spray-on rust encapsulator products. Finish has the look, feel, and seeming durability of a powder-coat finish. Prep is important: if applied over loose rust, then the toughness of the finish is undermined by the ease of chipping the loose rust off.

If you brush and/or sand the rust down so that it is surface rust only, then this product bonds like bonkers. It also bonds to whatever else it touches, including skin, fingernails, clothing, driveway pavement, and the lid of the can itself.

If you plan to use this across multiple projects, be aware that the product that collects in the lip of the can will bond the lid closed and you’ll have to damage the lid to get it open next time. You only get a few cracks at one can before you’ve got a product that can’t be resealed.

I used a microfiber-covered sponge for application, which worked well. You can use a paintbrush or sponge brush. You should assume that your application tool will be ruined after application. The finish looks good and seems significantly more durable than competing products.

I read some good and some questionable reviews and decided to give it a try. Staff was very helpful with directions when asked how to tackle my boat trailer. Primer coat was was a little thin to apply, but after the second coat, it was like glass the way it laid down.

My wife asked if I sprayed it. Top coat went on just as easy, I think it’s a little thicker viscosity because I ran short where I had extra primer. No worries though. The hardness of this product is fantastic.

I can’t wait to see how it holds up to a good old fashioned New England winter. Yes, I use my drift boat on the river in the winters. I got a late start with the first coat of primer and did not have time to start top coats per directions ( apply once product is dry to the touch with slight finger drag) so I had to sand primer with 320.

Not a huge deal, but start as early as possible.

Used to coat the bed of a utility ATV after cleaning off as much surface rust as possible. (deep pits remained) Brushed on with thick coating, good cover with first coat. Fast drying, able to use day after application.

Applies easily over bare metal with disposable foam brush (no primer or prep coat like other brands require). Wear latex gloves to greatly minimize cleanup! Leaves no brush marks, good working time, runs brush out easily.

Very durable finish, more glossy than flat. Covers well, a pint will do an entire roll cage. Short of powder coating, this is our go-to finish for roll cages and chassis parts. Caution: cleanup calls for xylene or toluene.

We just throw brushes and gloves away. any paint left on skin will wear off in a few days with soap and scrubbing, without using harmful chemicals.

hard heavy finish, time will tell how durable it is. would not bristle brush on, use sponge on stick for app. better off drilling hole in lid than opening it, seal air off when done. if you open lid place wax paper between it and can.

lid to can will not come apart without doing so. will not come off hands when dry, gloves good idea. limited life once opened better to get all area prepped then apply. Looks like it should hold up for some time.

Looks great on my square steel tubing handrail. But as we all know it’s all in the preparation, so I wire brushed, cleaned with mineral spirits, and primed with Rust-Oleum Primer before the color coat.

The color will fade some over the years but it is not going to peel or flake. This is the finest paint of it’s kind on the market today. I have used this product for years and the quality is unsurpassed.

It’s worth the extra money because it will last; you get what you pay for – – “buy cheap and that is exactly what you’ll get” said a wise man.

Paint was a bit thick upon arrival. I added in some Acetone, stirred and after coming back the next morning, it was perfect. I re-did this bench that my deceased husband and I had made (hardware was from an original horse buggy, dated 100 years older), 15 years ago.

This paint, in particular, served a vital purpose as it was applied to the metal hardware. Now, it’ll last forever! It was hard to find, especially out here in California, due to environmental regulations.

Thank you JB Tools for coming through!.

This color is amazing! I ordered it online, couldn’t find it anywhere local! The price was about double what a normal quart is ($22)! It was delivered UPS and the box was crushed at one end! Naturally it was the end the paint was in the elongated box, with airbag packing in the other end! I opened it in front of the UPS lady and it only had minimal leakage with a small amount of paint! The shipper had placed 4 spring clips on the lid to prevent opening! Otherwise the lid would have came conpletely off! The can was slightly dented! So I deceided to keep it anyway! The color is very bright and pleasing! The UPS Lady commented on that is a very nice color, it really pops! I planned to use this on a handicap curb and sign posts! Most blue paint they use for handicap is dull and boring! Now seeing the great color, I plan on useing this on the top endge color for my jon boat about 8″, then 1″ White, then Gray to the bottom! I have been searching for a color for the boat for sometime and this is it! This is very nice paint & color except for the higher price!.

I needed to strip down an expensive mower The 10 No. M6 specialist bolts that held the axels and height adjusting gear to the aluminium deck were seized solid. The deck surface adjacent to the work area had become affected by oxidisation.

Impact force to loosen the nuts was ruled out due to lack of space. Heat was ruled out due to lack space and risk to retained components. The maximum force I could apply with my usual tools had no effect.

I had other tools for the SHIFT or SHEER option but hoped to avoid the resultant costs. I researched reviews on various penetrating oils and selected WD-40 penetrating oil for its consistently high ratings.

I picked up a tin at Halfords (cheapest place I could buy it on the day. ) I applied a double dose and left it overnight. I used the same tools that had previously failed but this time removed all 10 bolts.

It’s not cheap but it’s good; cheap stuff doesn’t usually work well and that’s dear.

I used this to free up a hose that had been connected to an outside faucet for about 10 years. I had already tried regular WD40 and was about to use a hack saw to cut the hose end free but decided to try this first.

I sprayed the fitting several times over a couple of days and then tried it and it came off pretty easily using a wrench without much force. Very happy to have found an easy solution to the problem!.

I bought this item for to help me with my chainsaw repairs. so far it has been a great help in releasing rusty and corroded exhaust silencer bolts and nuts. I even had a seized solid engine in one of the saws,.

I removed the sparkplug and sprayed inside the cylinder head, and left it for a while to soak in. Sprayed again and slowly managed to get the engine to turn over. After repeating two or three times I checked the bore & piston and I found no visible damage or scratches visable.

So I would say that the product is excellent. THANKS JOHN.

I purchased it initially for treating the rust on the underside of a Lawn Boy mower deck. I cleaned the underside, removed the majority of the rust with a cupped wire brush on my angle grinder, and then treated it with Permatex Corrosion & Rust Inhibitors.

I will be painting the underside of the deck with “Custom Shop – Gray Epoxy Primer/Sealer”. I will then evaluate how long the epoxy primer protects the underside of the deck. The Permatex worked great for mitigating the remaining rust, and seemed to provide a good base for painting with the epoxy primer.

With the name “Evapo-Rust” I would have expected the rust to be removed easily from the product, similar to how CLR would remove calcium deposit. It is NOT the case. This product requires intensive cleaning to be able to remove the rust and if you are not careful you can actually make it worse if you use this product and let it dry on the rusted material as it would solidify rust instead of dissolving it.

It works if you want to put the effort into it but not as I expected it to work.

Outstanding Rust Treatment. Converts rust all the way to it’s roots. Provides smooth surface finish that can be sanded and painted. Great product!

I will always have a can of this stuff around for any situation. I have used it in combination with other products as well to help seal and protect worn out areas that could let water in. Works good on stuff other than cars too.

Super easy to apply and doesn’t make a mess. Just give it the proper conditions and time to dry. Also multiple coats are sometimes needed depending on the gap that you are sealing.

I like this product and have never had a problem with it. It is not a heavy undercoating like some cars are manufactured with, it is a thinner finish when dried. Good product when used per instructions and shaken often during application.

Spray onto a clean dry surface. If the surface is dirty, it’s not gonna stick. If the surface is oily, it’s not gonna dry in the oily areas. It applies heavy, so spray lightly or be prepared for runs.

It does in most cases foam up but it will shrink down somewhat as it dries. it does spray brown but dries to black. If sprayed in humid environment, it may cause condensation on the coated surface and water may puddle on some top horizontal surfaces.

I rebuild classic cars for a hobby, and have done so since the 70’s, so I know a thing or 2, trust me, if you follow procedure, it will more than satisfy.

Haven’t used undercoating in over 20 years. Just bought some. This stuff is excellent, coats with a good layer, smooth, fills seams good, doesn’t drip or run, looks great, not much over spray at all, and good price.

I’d say Rustoleum hit the nail on the head with this. Oh and sprays upside down also. Was going to by the Rustoleum Pro, but this says it has Asphalt, and thats what it should be!.

I bought an old Craftsman drill press and the column was rusty. I wanted to put something on it after I cleaned it so it wouldn’t rust up again. I watched a youtube video comparing rust prevention coatings and the Sta-Bil Rust Stopper was the overall winner.

It sprays on thick and I had to wipe it up where it pooled but it also leaves a coating behind. I ended up rubbing some in to the table and base too. Very good product.

I used to live in the Midwest, where rust was always an issue. A product like Sta-Bil Rust Stopper was necessary to stop corrosion on components on cars, trucks, and snowblowers. Now I live in a much warmer and drier climate.

That said, I still use Sta-Bil Rust Stopper on several pieces of equipment. Rust Stopper lubricates and penetrates joints and pivot points, allowing them to move freely and quietly. Try Sta-Bil Rust Stopper on your equipment.

it works regardless of where you live.

I used this on the edges of our washing machine lid. The moisture over time has caused the edges to begin rusting but the machine is still good. With the use of this product, it will stop the spread of rust and will allow us to continue using this machine for years to come.

I also applied it to the bumper of my truck that has some rust starting to show. This has put the rust to a stop. This is really a great product and will protect all metal areas that are exposed to moisture.

I have used rust bullet in the restoration of my car in just about every painted surface. It’s binding properties are remarkable. And it binds to EVERYTHING. I have even used it with fiberglass cloth to reinforce some items.

You would be amazed at the adhesion and rigidity it creates on Say. a split piece of plastic console, when placed on the back, with saturated fiberglass cloth. I have even thinned it with xylene and sprayed it.

Again, keep in mind, One of thrings that makes this product awesome also makes it challenging to use. You must wear gloves. it sticks to everything. Be careful where you put your hands if they have this on them.

Touch a seat and it is ruined. Touch a dash pad and it is ruined. The price at summit is a bit too high. I have found it on line for much less.

I purchased Rust Bullet on the recommendation of one of my friends. I bought this to coat the floorboards and trunk on my 69 Torino GT. I was surprised how thin it was, however after reading about the product I learned it’s made that way to creep into all the areas of the metal.

I used a brush and had a beautiful floorboard with one coat. The directions say to apply two coats because as the first coat dries it off-gases and there could be small pin holes in the coating. the second coat is just to seal those holes.

I’ve had this on for a week now and it looks great. One thing to look out for is that Rust Bullet comes in Industrial and Automotive mixtures. The Automotive is thinner. There is not a long working window for the produc t.

I wish there was more info on the product (reviews, you tube videos, etc). Time will tell, but I’m thinking there are more than 15 benefits of using Rust Bullet over a competitor’s product.

I used it in my engine bay, which I spent a lot of time stripping, cleaning and treating surface rust. It was all finished in 80 grit and sandblasted In the nooks and crannies. It was blown out several times, wiped with wax and grease remover, treated with phosphoric acid for surface rust.

I sprayed on the Rust Bullet and when it was fresh it looked nice and smooth. It soon started to gain texture however. A year later I’m seeing bubble spots where it is lifting. I’m very disappointed because now I can’t trust that it won’t continue to lift and peel if I sand it flat and feather the lifting spots to topcoat it.

I should have just used POR15, I’ve never had it lift or peel.

This runny, drippy primer that lacks adhesion strength is inferior compared to Rustoleum’s gray primer or red oxide primer gallons which are both awesome yet banned in California and many other states in the gallon or quart version.

They are available, however, in spray cans. Do not use Rustoleum “Rusty” Metal Primer as a substitute on clean metal, the oils that are supposed to bond to the rust will rise to the surface instead making for a weaker topcoat bond and fish eyes.

I left 2 stars because it is marginally better than using no primer.

great product. lasts a long time on rusty metal. real thick. use a disposable brush. adheres very well to all surfaces. buy in spray cans too. must use all quickly. bad spray tip. always close. have cans 1/2 full unusable.

inverting can to spray tip clear never works.

Our gas line to our backup emergency generator was beginning to rust after 14 years of outdoor service and after cleaning the pipe and fittings with emery cloth – I used “Rust-Oleum (rusty metal) Primer” to coat the pipe and allowed it to fully dry (2-days) before applying the top coat of Rust-Oleum Enamel Paint.

It now looks better than it did when brand new. I feel the pipe is better protected and no longer an eyesore.

I’m a ground maintenance worker at my local state park, and this trusted shop standby has a new use – preventing camper’s fees from ending up in the wrong hands. Let me explain. We have a camping fee drop box that is pillaged at night, mainly from non-campers stealing camper’s fee envelopes.

What they usually do is that they take a wired coat hanger, place some adhesive on one end, and fish the envelopes from the slot. Coming from a tech background, I know that the WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a really effective dissolver of adhesives.

To this product’s success, it has successfully dissolved wet patch roofing adhesive to CatchMaster Bulk, the very same or similar glue substance used on many rodent glue traps. It even leaves no residue behind so that no envelopes are easily rippable.

If there was one question I’d ask, that would be “What happened to the non-aerosol-based WD-40 Multi-Use Product Trigger Pro?” It had a very nice spray area as far as I’ve read, and I’m wondering if it will make a comeback.

With this product being over 50 years old, it continues to astound me. My grandfather and father used and introduced me to it, and I’m a fan of this humble spray can. Thanks!.

The name of this item is “WD-40 Multi-Use Product”. Nowhere on the bottle does it claim to be a lubricant. Nowhere on the bottle does it say Multi-Use lubricant. WD-40 does not make that claim. Canadian tire just made it up out of thin air.

WD-40 is a solvent and a degreaser. The exact opposite of a lubricant. It can lubricate, it is not a lubricant. Very different things. If a tool is gummed up with grease and grime it will dissolve the grime and unstick the tool.

In that way it lubricates the tool by dissolving the grime that was holding it in place. But it is not an actual lubricant by itself. Its a clean and it gets stuck parts moving again so you can clean it off and apply a real lubricant afterwards.

I didn’t use this on my car but on my Impala Rollerskates. I saw a YouTube channel of this girl with Impala Rollerskates cleaning her bearings with WD-40 instead of speed cream. It actually worked out! I wouldn’t use it all the time but it’s a handy alternative to have when you’re in a pinch.

Be sure your bearings are super clean with the pure acetone. Soak them in pure acetone for a minute or two if they’re really dirty, spin bearings and let them dry. Otherwise, you can use the Bones Bearing cleaner a few times or make your own bearings cleaner.

When you go to use the WD-40 be liberal with it. Spin your bearings right after and let them dry on a lint free towel on top of cardboard magazine. If your bearings seem stuck or slower to spin than the other bearings you can try soaking or cleaning them again.

Once they are dry try reapplying the WD-40. If your bearings are still stuck then you probably need to replace your bearings. Good luck! Tip: Spray outside, wear goggles, gloves & a mask.

This stuff works, it does take a few applications. I’ve found the first application pretty much halts the advance of rust. Six months or so later, a second brief application and another six months later some final touch-up.

It ends up developing a fairly stable dark brown oily film over the rust. Which on something under-car that’s rusted is about as good as it gets.

Fluid Film spay. I wish I found this stuff sooner! My only complaint is how narrow the spray pattern is, no fan out. I wanted a non-hardening spray for rust treatment. I am utilizing this product to coat the underside of a surviving Ford Escort 1984 these cars are no longer around due to rust in the rear strut tower area.

It was nearly therapeutic spraying all the spots that haven’t rusted yet. I now want to coat everything metal outdoors with it, will buy another can or two soon, one to spend right away and another to keep around.

I haul granular(and dusty) fertilizer for a living in a trailer with screw on safety locks on the rear. These are frequently brushed and oiled to operate. I was on a 2 week vacation and when I returned, I couldn’t move one of the latches, and the other one just barely moved.

I sprayed Free All on them and let them alone for a couple of hours. Later, they both were free and with another coat, the operate like new again. This stuff eats rust. The fragrance is different and nice.

I’ve given a can to 2 different friends and they were amazed as well. This is so much better than Kroil and cheaper. A little goes a long way.

I use Freeall for many lubricating and freeing up rusted nuts and bolts. Nothing beat’s a Freeall for the rust and stuck bolts. The stuff is amazing. Would highly recommend this product. You will not be disappointed.

Used this product under the fender wells on my service body. Applied the product with a 1” wide brush which help getting into some of the tight corners and crossmember in the wheel well area. Product went on super smooth and I was really surprised how well the paint smooth out and you couldn’t see any brush lines.

Used a small paint roller on the flat surfaces. Used the pint cans on this part of the body since there is no way you could yuse a quart of the product in these areas. I am going to continue repainting the bottom side of the service body and here I will be able to use a quart at a time.

When the product was dry used the POR 15 Top Coat in a spray can to also help get paint up into the hard to reach areas. Nice shine on the paint and the dry time was realitively quick. Nice paint to work with.

Great results !!!!! The pint cans worked well on this project.

I did a frame off restoration and painted my entire frame with POR-15. Ordered the 6 pack for final touch up. Wire brushed the surface rust off (southern vehicle), degreased with POR-15 degreaser, sprayed on metal prep, let it dry in the sun and then waited 2 more days.

Painted easily and entire truck frame used only 1. 5qt. Cover your hair/face/arms as it splatters easy and doesn’t come off. Paint is good but not as good as they advertise. When you tighten a bolt, it will peel a layer of the paint off underneath the bolt head.

The paint scratches off fairly easily and leaves the old rust exposed. I would use it again as it is extremely easy to put on (simple brush and it flows almost like water). Looks amazing when finished.

Get a small can for touch-up of bolt heads and where it peels/scratches.

Brought 30+ years of Minnesota neglected steel on a trailer back to like life after using the pretreatment wash and prep etching post fabrications. The gloss finish hardened to a much stronger and better looking finish than some powder coats.

Perfect for large projects where cost may be prohibitive to professional re-coating. Did it all in my driveway over a weekend.

Idler pulley on my 7. 5 foot mower deck froze solid on bolt that it spins on. WD-40 Penetrant sprayed 3 or 4 times within 5 minutes each time. Using a pipe wrench was able to work and free the pulley to the point of movement on its own.

I’m extremely pleased. Well worth the purchase.

WD40 Rust Release works great! In fact it works better than any other penetrant that I have used over many years. My previous penetrant of choice was PB Blaster, but now that I have used WD40 Rust Release, I believe that it actually does the job faster, and without all the nasty fumes of PB.

Doing a transmission job for a customer, transmission output shaft was rusted into the transfer case about 3 inches. I have used every penetration oil there is and it would not move. Was pricing a new transmission due to the fact of the popularity of this one, none used were available.

Before committing to a 2000. 00 trans, I looked up if there was anything else I could try. I found this product, was sceptical about its claims, but for about 6 bucks, I had nothing to loose. Bought it, sprayed it directly on the splines and closed for the evening.

I know it says it takes only minutes, but I have been trying to get this apart for 2 days straight. I went out this morning, pulled the case apart about a 1/4 inch, shined my light in and the splines were black not rust, but black! sprayed it again and about 3 minutes I had it apart! this stuff soaked in the whole way up the splines.

That is 3 inches into a very tight tolerance af 32 splines, inside a rusted shaft with no clearances. I am very greatful for this product and will recommend to every shop I am associated with. Every other penetrating oil is out, THIS IS IN!!!!!!!!!! Thank you WD-40.

MAGIC in a can, nothing else removed rust safely from my old Shimano BTR6500B like this stuff did. Sprayed a bit in cap, soaked the one way bearings and races. Next morning wiped the rust off and my 13year old real was reborn.

My son’s reel went for a swim and never rinsed. 2 months later cleaned with this can and greased with Okuma reel grease and its reusable again. Top prodruct.

I use it to rust proof my truck every year before winter. I spray it in the bottom of the doors, over the front and rear wheel-wells and in the rocker panels. The truck is a 2004 Dodge dakota that has went thru 8 Michigan winters and so far no rust!.

I found out about CorrosionX years ago when it swept the honors corrosion inhibitor shootout conducted by Powerboat Reports. Since then, it has become my “go-to” product for everything metal. On saltwater, everything corrodes, even stainless steel faucets and galley appliances INSIDE the boat.

I use the stuff like furniture polish on metal. I wipe everything down once a year and no more rust. Also, I’ve never seen another lubricant that performs better or will stand up to saltwater and numerous deck washes like this product does.

A++.

I was able to loosen frozen, rusted gears, and screws on an old (over a century) check protector that I’ve been trying to restore. I was amazed that I was able to do it with relative ease by using the Kano Kroil.

I just wish that KK wasn’t so expensive. I saw that others had given KK high marks, and that’s why I was willing to spend the extra cash on it. Then, I saw a youtube video that compared KK with Liquid Wrench, and LW came out on top.

After I saw that video, I was horrible and remorseful that I should’ve spent my money on WR instead. But I used the KK, and it unfroze the rusted screws and gears with ease. I now want to compare KK with LW and see for myself if LW really does tops KK at a lower price.

Stay tuned!.

There is no question that the bolt head of my starter motor would have broken off if I had not used a good penetrating oil. [The other bolt already did break off– no penetrating oil used– , and this second bolt felt just as unyielding.

So I bought the Kano Kroil. ] I first fully removed the old bad starter motor by drilling and chipping away its lug area surrounding the bolt. Then I made a silicone seal dam around the bottom of the bolt, applied the Kroil to the area inside the dam with an eye dropper, put in a bit of tissue paper to wick the Kroil to the bolt threads, and applied more Kroil daily for a week (because the dam was not perfect, and leaked slowly).

After all this, I just finally decided to put enough force on my wrench and let come what may. To my great surprise the bolt moved and did not break! Whether another penetrating oil would have also worked, I can not know.

But the Kroil did work, and that’s what mattered to me.

I’ve been using this for about 4 years now and I believe it is the best on the market. The rubber undercoating trap moisture and accelerate rust so avoid those. Several technical reviews have selected Fluid Film as the best and I agree (I tried 2 similar products).

I initially bought the lower end Fluid Film spray gun and was not real happy with it so I bought the Fluid Film pro-gun and I love it – it is well worth the added cost. The Fluid Film sprays on the easiest when it is at least 70 F outside (the warmer it is, the better).

And make sure to mix the Fluid Film up because that makes it spray way easier. I spray my cars every September. Upstate NY winter salted roads will eat cars up! BTW – works great on lawn mower decks too.

And frees frozen car locks and window cranks up. FYI – certain parts of the cars under-chassis are not hit directly by water/dirt/snow and in those areas, the Fluid Film will look wet and well protected after a year which means that I after my first or second year of spraying a car, I need to use a lot less the following years.

Also, buy the 1/2″ sheet metal plugs so you can drill holes and spray Fluid Film in all the cavities and then use the plugs to close the holes. Best value is to buy it by the 5 gallon jug.

Film seems to provide excellent protection from rust and the elements that contribute to rusting. It applies easily with a higher powered fluid sprayer or higher pressured spray gun or paint sprayer.

Be sure your fluid can can handle the psi needed to apply this evenly. Goes on as easy as spray paint if the psi is strong enough, otherwise it may come out in sputtered sploches. ***May confuse some mechanic shops initially if you get other work done.

Be sure to explain you treated your vehicle with this before taking it in. You don’t want them inadvertently trying to wipe it off to find a leak thinking it is something from your vehicle system. ***.

This product for me has various uses! I did a small test prior to buying the 5-gal size with a small spray can I found at a local auto supply store. I had heard a little bit about “Fluid Film” but had never seen it in stores.

Where I live it seems rust is an issue year round. If not salty roads in winter we have high humidity in warmer months. The test I did was cleaning and sharpening lawn mower blades in my garage. I clean my blades to bare metal.

After I sharpened the three (3) blades that go on my mower I treated two (2) with “Fluid Film” and one (1) I left untreated. I left them laying out in my garage. The two (2) had a light coating and had no rust after one (1) week.

The one (1) untreated blade had surface rust already forming. For me I can see several uses for this product. I have treated under my truck but I won’t know how well it will do until the winter months ahead.

In winter here they put a lot of salt on the roads and if it keeps my truck from rusting away it will be worth the cost.

Been using original WD-40 for years and I’ve always been pleased so I thought I’d give this a try. It states that it’s ideal for things like snowblowers and such as they’re prolonged to storage but I tried on choke tubes for a shotgun.

I removed the choke tube applied a light coating to threads and re installed removed choke tube a few weeks later removed as easily as it installed. No I didn’t shoot the shotgun I just wanted to test to see if product would help keep away rust and seizing and it seems to have worked.

Anyone that shoots shotguns knows that a stuck choke tube sucks and this seems to be a good product to help keep them from rusting in place during storage. The removed choke wasn’t dripping but the surface appeared to be slick with fine film and could still smell the product.

I’ll be using this on mower blades, locks, plow and any other tools I have now that tend to sit for periods of time. I’m happy with the product and would definitely buy again.

I bought this to put on my car as I am doing body work sanding off rust and was hoping it would maybe last a few days and then I would have to reapply. Nope. It has been on for over 3 weeks through heavy rainstorms, muddy roads, and the high winds of the highway.

There isn’t a spec of rust. Furthermore another spot which is literally in the wheel well and is constantly splattered with grime and water and was super rusty before i sanded them and i was sure they would rust again, haven’t got a spec of rust anywhere that i applied this stuff.

It collects dirt and grime but that’s only because its on a car I would say anything else will stay even cleaner. I would buy this again. I wish it wasn’t so expensive for such a small bottle but it really exceeded my expectations so it is worth the price.

I used the WD-40 Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor on the rust spots that were forming on my car. The previous owner of the car did not take the car in for a faulty paint job recall, so now I am dealing with rust spots forming in many places.

I sprayed this product on all of the spots and left it there. I did not ready any instructions to remove the product, so I’ve just left it on. It is clearly visible and sticky, but has not had any negative effects.

Rain will wash it off eventually, but we’ve had a string of nice weather lately, so it’s still on there even though I have still driven the car. Perhaps this product would be of better use on metals other than your car.