14 Best Tie Rod End (2022 Updated)

i purchased their cheaper brand originally was trash. but the moog feels heavier and passed the harness test. you see the junk brand uses a softer steel which stretches often needing to align more often.

so i returned and again the counter people were very professional and understanding and exchanged the junk for the quality MOOG.

I ordered the drag link end (pitman arm side) and also the right side longer drag link (knuckle end) to use with Steer Smarts drag link attenuator. The parts fit and thread into the attenuator (adjuster clamp), but the short pitman arm drag link had a thick burr on the first thread at the casting seam.

It wouldn’t thread. When I saw the trouble I filed the bad spot on the thread thinner so it would thread right on. Comes in a box, mine was tore open, nothing to protect the thread, although mine were fine, other than the manufacturing defect from casting.

Moof has always been one of the best go to or replacement brands and performed great but when I received this drag link end I was not impressed. Appeared brand new did not come in a sealed bag, The grease fitting was missing, and the wrong size cotter key was sent.

I was not expecting this tie rod to be as thick as it was. This tie rod is well made. It made my Jeep ride so much better then the stock tie rod. This tie rod was worth buying and installing. Should have done this a long time ago.

This tie rod is 1-1/4 OD and sturdy. It’s not at all like the flimsy stock tie rod. It is just a little shorter, just a little then stock but that was good because you need a little room for adjustment on the tie rod ends.

If I had to buy this ever again sure would. Install was so easy.

I run 35s on my jeep Cherokee and the stock Tierod Would actually flex significantly when hitting ruts or bumps in roads. It is actually a night and day difference in drivability on the highway or around corners.

Feels so much more stable and significantly more trustworthy than the OEM part. Thank you rough country if I ever need one again you are my first choice.

Was 2 inch short from the original . new one 34 inch . old one 36 and I need 36 inch. so this item its not the correct size im disappointed

Althought it is not shown in the description/picture the tie rod end I received included a grease fitting. It is easy to install and seemed every bit as subtantial as the OEM part taken off. Of course the R/R is easier from a lift but, the job can be easily performed at home with the aid of a jack and support stand.

If your driving and older car as I am it would be wise to check your front end parts for wear. Often you can simply ask a technician doing an oil change to let you know of any parts taht seem loose. Certain big box stors as W-M have policies against giving advise or diagnosis of machanical problems.

So far both that i bought didn’t fit either side, would go half way and even with smacking on it with a rubber mallet would to go through the spindle. Only half of the threads would come through and upon trying to use the castle nut to tighten it would pull the threads off the tie rod, 96 and 98 are the same part number so guess my next step is to try the moogs and see if they work.

Just replaced the tie rod ends on my 1993 DS. They were delivered quickly and installed quickly. One note, they no longer have grease fittings but now have a self contained rubber grease body. I called the tech service to establish how far the slotted castle nut should be tightened as the rubber grease body starts to pancake.

He advised you only need to get to a point where the hole for the cotter pin is exposed. Looks like a nice improvement to the tie rod ends! A definite 5 star rating.

Loved the fast & great service , , also the courtesy shown to me! The part was just what I needed & it works beautifully! Thank you Buggies unlimited again, enjoyed dealing with you. Floyd Worden

Bought one for a 2004 DS and it seems to have a narrower shaft than the one it replaced by about 2mm and unless tightened super tight causes a lot of play in the steering. Also this one has no grease fitting like the one it replaced.

I guess these are maintenance free and you just replace them rather than service them.

Fixed my steering issue with these heavy duty Tie Rods. Great part & fast delivery. -m-2006 KAWASAKI KFX 400–

I have a 06 Raptor, after 5 years I finally bent my stock tie rods. So I figured to up grade. First thing I noticed was if they are stainless steel how come a magnet sticks to them. But I installed them anyway.

So on my second ride with them guess what!!! yep I bent one. Two light hits with a hammer and it is straight again. I couldn’t do that with the old ones. Never again!!!.

They worked really well for me and haven’t had a problem since I got them. I race xc with it and the trees are really tight in the woods and even if your tires or a-arms hit them the tie rods didn’t bend.

2002 F150 with 162K. One tie rod was worn and the other three would need replacement within six month. So, I decided to replace all four. The nuts were frozen on all four joints. New Outer joints screwed onto the sleeve by hand and the new nut fit perfecftly.

However, the thread on the inner joints had to be tightened onto the sleeve with a wrench. The outer joints included a nut. However, the inner joint did not include a nut. Went bsck to the store to purchse a nut, but they don’t sell thme! Very frustrating!.

Fits perfectly on my 97 F150. I rented the pickle fork tool and made the job a lot easier.

Perfect part and high quality look like they will last for a long time

These look to be very well made. Some tie rod ends come without any way to grease them to help them last longer. Most of the older made cars in the 50s/ 70s had grease certs in most moving parts. If they were cared for properly, for the most part, they outlasted the car they were on.

Most cars back then had 21 to 28 certs that needed to be greased at each oil change. You can hardly find a late model car with any certs at all to grease. So the cars of today have what lube is in them when made and when they wear out, they’re replaced.

This type, with the grease cert is what I would replace them with and speedway has been my choice of parts for me for many years.

Used on 74 Pinto country squire wagon project which I installed Mustang II suspension on. Quite a project as I removed old origional suspension and built new frame rails for wider clearance for exhaust and to beef up front end for higher horse power 427 SBF engine.

Gonna love this sleeper car.

the Mustang 2 rack and pinion I purchased installed without much difficulty. works great. I would recommend this rack and opinion to anyone. thanks speedway

The best ball joint remover/separator I have used. While the hammer works removing the ball joints up front, there isn’t room for a hammer in the rear of my 2000 Honda Odyssey. No room for a pitman arm puller, either.

Honda asks more than $200 for a tool similar to this. I searched here and found this. I was skeptical at first, but thought I would take a chance at this price. Skeptical no more. I wish I have learned about this long ago.

The two fingers have no problem sliding beneath the boot. The jaw opening is a perfect fit for my Odyssey. Once I positioned it properly and tighten it with my fingers, I went to my impact wrench, one squeeze and the joint popped right out.

Great tool, great price, great value.

I was a bit skeptical when I first bought this tool, because it looked to be too bulky for my 1997 Honda CR-V’s lower ball joints. It actually worked pretty well with a couple modifications to its usage.

First, contrary to the instructions, I used a hex nut on the end of the ball joint stem, being sure to seat the nut flush with the end of the stem (instructions say to leave the castle nut in place, but it seemed too tall – may be different on your particular vehicle).

Second, the forked portion of the tool wouldn’t fit all the way under the ball joint boot at first, so I applied a little grease to the fork so that I could gradually slide it under the boot as I turned the tool’s bolt to separate the ball joint from the lower arm.

Done. All in all, this tool was a good value for its application. Caution: Do not hammer aggressively on the tool to force the fork under the ball joint boot; you risk tearing the ball joint boot by doing so.

the tool worked as intended without any problems on both the tie rods and ball joints of my 2002 Elantra. this is not a pro-grade tool by any stretch, but quite adequate for the DIY. the portion of the separator that fits against the nut is very thick and some cars may not have the needed clearance for it.

but in my case,no problems, saves quite a bit of time, and no damage to the boots. it more than pays for itself by allowing you to easily change the CV joint/axle.

This pickle fork bent while I was trying to remove the steering center link on my truck. Maybe it wasn’t the right tool for the job, but I was disappointed that the forks are now twisted out of shape without much force applied to them.

I had to replace a ball joint on a vehicle that I just purchased. Honestly, I had never replaced a part like that before; but I YouTube’d a way to fix it. The video told me that a Tie Rod would make the process alot easier.

They were right! The Tie Rod went into place and with a few solid beats of a mallet, the part came off without a problem.

tried popping lower control arm ball joint… no go… it ended up damaging the boot and not seperating the joint from the knuckle

Changed both inner and outer tie rod ends on my ’07 Mustang V6 base. No frame of reference, but sturdy as multiple sources say they should be. From the picture you can see I blew out the seal. Took it apart and put back together with a little less grease this time.

Took me longer than usual, I think. Old outer was very stubborn, but finally fell after multiple whacks to the collar.

Great product ! Highly recommend for those who haven’t switched out their stock suspension components and are looking for an OEM part .

Prefect fit and easy install. Changed these and outer at the same time. Took about an hour on each side taking my time. If you are having any shake in the steering wheel you can pretty much expect one of these to be the culprit.

Smooth solid steering after install. Make sure you have the alignment checked after. Easy to get close but at the price of tires it’s worth the dollars to have it checked.

Pretty good deal. You get what you pay for. Had to replace tie rods after only a couple hundred miles and I went with Moog. Still having problems with the lower ball joints bolts loosening by themselves since there’s no cotter pin for it.

About what you’d expect for a $250 front end kit.

Perfect fit for my 2010 f350. Only thing I added was the track bar and shocks and steer stabilizer. No more death wobble.

The taper on the ball joints are nearly 1/16 larger on these than the factory ones so they fit very poorly. I ended up buying Motorcraft anyways because the fit on these was so bad

For the uninitiated as myself know that using this tool will most likely damage the boot of the tie rod requiring its replacement. Better to follow YouTubers and loosen by striking the knuckle with hammer.

I used it to separate the inner tie rod end from its joint. It worked great, I had tried to use a heavy hammer to separate the joint by hitting on the end but it wouldnt come loose. Using this tool could possibly damage the rubber grease seal but since that was the only reason I took it apart was to replace the seal it was ok, although it didnt seem to have done any damage to it.

Tool worked as advertised. A few hard bangs and the ball joint was separated from the knuckle.

Although not the easiest to install correctly, it is a great product and has worked greater that what I’ve taken off. The quality of the steel used is much better than expected. Two thumbs up!

Works great, about a 3 on a scale of 1 – 10 (1 being easy) for installing. Autozone had these in stock on a Sunday afternoon when I started a simple brake rotor / pad replacement on my truck. I replaced the upper control arms and sway bar links as well since the ball joints were goners.

Used this product on a truck that’s a daily driver. Fit and performs as it should. Wasn’t exactly looking for a lifetime warranty.

This part was an exact fit replacement for the OEM. Installation was straight forward. I gave it only a 4 star rating because the Auto Zone website states it comes with the boot, but it didn’t. Not a big problem because the original boot was still reusable.

I’m chasing a clunking in the steering and was sure this was the problem, but it wasn’t so on to another solution. The original part was worn so it wouldn’t be long before it would need replacing.

Putting the tire rod in was ok had the tool and everything its just the boot for it there don’t make anymore so I empathize and used one for a Ford suv braided hose for the power steering fluid to get to the inner.

Got to do what you got to do.

First one had too much play. Second one worked as designed