20 Best Truck Frame Undercoating (2022 Updated)

I have experience with this product in commercial applications. And I will say it performs very well. The reason for my purchase was a bit unorthodox. I used the product on the underside of the treated wood floor on my utility trailer.

It was in an attempt to deter the carpenter bees from doing any more damage. So far it seems to have worked.

3M rubberized undercoating absolutely wonderful material. Goes on smooth and adheres perfectly two metal surfaces. The nozzle never clogged even once. Read reviews on how other brands from box stores would clog up so I went with 3M based on other reviews and I was not disappointed.

In the past the 3M brand was Always dependable but then they got cheap with their products and the quality suffered. Now maybe because of their profit line they are putting out better products. This undercoating is ok and I think? it will last a while on the undercarriages of autos.

That is just my opinion as an old bodyman. Hope this helps.

Response on just a question about product is near non existent, not sure why. Overall this is a very good product for intended use. It is thick and covers well warm it up but remember gallon cans are plastic so be careful.

I used a airless sprayer and that worked out very well for all larger open areas, done quickly with great coverage Yes, I would buy it again.

Not at all what I expected. Can’t recommend it to anyone I like. It stays to loose. I pressure wash the underside of my vehicles every wash and this will be off instantly. Sorry.

Thicker than other lanolin products out there. Brushes on like paint.

Spray pattern is good, product covers well. Get too close without moving along fast enough and it will run some, like pancake syrup. Applies as a shiny black material that soon dries completely to a flat black surface that is not sticky at all.

The dried surface finish has just a tiny bit of texture to it similar to a sand blasted surface. Areas with a heavy application might take a couple of days to dry completely but areas with a single even coat will be dry in one day.

Yes, it is a paintable finish. The nozzle doesn’t plug up if left for a few days between uses. I tend to over do it with undercoats in an effort to enhance abrasion resistance and for sound deadening and seam sealing, as such I will use a whole can on a fenderwell or one side of a floorpan.

I’m guessing I will get two doors out of a can with a bit left over. I will be buying more of this before I’m done with this car. The 3M version of this undercoat has better adhesion and durability, thus I feel is a better product (though at 5 times the price) and I generally use that as the first coat followed by two or more coats of this to build up the surface.

Yes I recommend this undercoating, it works as advertised and is very economical.

I will always have a can of this stuff around for any situation. I have used it in combination with other products as well to help seal and protect worn out areas that could let water in. Works good on stuff other than cars too.

Super easy to apply and doesn’t make a mess. Just give it the proper conditions and time to dry. Also multiple coats are sometimes needed depending on the gap that you are sealing.

I like this product and have never had a problem with it. It is not a heavy undercoating like some cars are manufactured with, it is a thinner finish when dried. Good product when used per instructions and shaken often during application.

Spray onto a clean dry surface. If the surface is dirty, it’s not gonna stick. If the surface is oily, it’s not gonna dry in the oily areas. It applies heavy, so spray lightly or be prepared for runs.

It does in most cases foam up but it will shrink down somewhat as it dries. it does spray brown but dries to black. If sprayed in humid environment, it may cause condensation on the coated surface and water may puddle on some top horizontal surfaces.

I rebuild classic cars for a hobby, and have done so since the 70’s, so I know a thing or 2, trust me, if you follow procedure, it will more than satisfy.

This stuff is pretty amazing. I had a trailer hitch that was rusting away, sandblasted and rewelded. They wanted $200 to powder coat but I think that would have been a waste. I decided to give this stuff a try over por 15.

I got to say I am very happy. I applied the paint to a warm surface and left it in a low humidity high heat environment overnight. It dried rock hard. I don’t think the stuff is ever going to come off which is good.

I got a little bit on my skin and I doubt that’ll ever come off either. I applied three coats at 2-hour intervals. The smell isn’t as strong as I expected and once dried there was no odor at all. Whatever brushes you use will probably end up in the garbage because this stuff is impossible to remove so make sure you have a bunch ready.

You must stir the can and avoid shaking it. If you shake the can you have to let it sit for 24 hours to settle then stir. I only used less than half a quart to do the entire trailer hitch which is massive.

A little bit goes a long way. I will use the remainder to touch up some of the underside components on my Toyota.

Great stuff for rusty metal. We use on our dump trailers that have many miles and years on them. But you will need to coat with a top coat of some kind. POR15 or industrial/farm implement paint, many different brands available.

TSC sells some at good prices. That’s if you want deep black finish to last. Over time, the sunlight fades Chassis Saver to a gray color. Still holds up nice, but sun fade. Tried painting inside of dump, but that was a waste of time and money.

Shingles just ripped paint right off when dumped. Exterior looks great still and rust free. We rolled on and used brushes for tight spots. Thought about spraying, but you lose paint from overspray, plus it would need thinning to pass through a gun.

So two thumbs up on this paint! Update 08-31-20 Well 3/4 of the way through our busy season with roofing and no signs of rust to date. We have newer trailers we purchased after painting a couple of trailers with Chassis Saver, and the new trailers have more rust than the painted trailers.

Chassis Saver with topcoat applied trailers are holding up superbly! Not as shiny as the new trailers, but no rust either!! Really is a good quality paint for rusted metal. Two thumbs up on Chassis Saver.

????.

I’m not sure how long this will do it’s job I’ve only had it on for 3 months but it looks the same so far. It goes on good with a bristle brush. I believe the directions said to use foam brushes. They are crap and fall apart immediately, I use the cheapest bristle brushes and they last and apply the paint good.

I do use a bit of thinner in it, I use xylene solvent as recommended by chassis saver or you can use their own reducer. You can reduce with 10 percent reducer I believe and it is enough for the paint to flow out without brush marks in it.

Also it is good to have one of these thinners on hand for spills and if you get the paint on your skin there is no way of getting it off without it. While I normally wouldn’t tell someone to put solvents on your skin it might be an option if you don’t want to wear this paint for weeks while it wears off.

Oh and try to make sure the surface your putting it on is clean and free of oils,gas,grease etc. you might get some “fish eyes” when it’s curing. I did in one spot.

This is quite simply the best product at the best price that is available to the public. It’s too bad that it has received a few bad reviews by people that don’t understand or have the patience to know how to use it.

This product sets very slowly and, most importantly, stays flexible ! Unlike the old types of undercoats that went on too heavy and would eventually harden and then crack, allowing water to then get trapped underneath it.

Mostly, however, due to insufficient prepping of the surface it was being applied too. (Use that Scotchbrite pad people!) Not good! Pick up an air supplied undercoating gun ( I use the one I got from H-F years ago, along with the old Gel-Seal cans.

no longer available of course) and your in business. Then give it a few days. , maybe even a week to set up. You won’t be disappointed.

This is the stuff that killed Elvis! Goes on easy. Somewhat self-level, relative to a very viscous material. I’ve used 3 gallons of it and will use more when the opportunity presents itself. Cleans up very well with a little mineral spirits, for those little mistake we all make.

Stores well, just in case it’s not completely used up. Provides a reasonable sound barrier, if that’s what you’re looking for; re-coats very well if you are looking for film thickness i. e. sound dampening.

The smell dissipates quick enough if left out for curing; takes a while in an enclosed space such as using it inside an interior space; cabin, truck or inner-doors. You can’t go wrong with purchasing some of this.

Later Jay.

The only true quality undercoating I have used. I was A. S. E. certified in autobody, paint/refinishing and I-car certified in rust prevention in the 90’s, this was a great product then and still is the best in my opinion.

This stuff looks great and isn’t too hard to paint on. Some tips that made my second application better/quicker. I scraped, sanded and wire brushed the frame first and used their cleaner before painting.

I painted mine on with a brush – doesn’t leave brush strokes. I started with the kit (to get the prep items) and found that the quart sized can dries too fast, even pouring some out to work with. I found the pint cans to be better and less waste.

Once you open a can, you may as well finish it off because you’ll end up throwing it away anyway – Don’t think you can save it for later because it becomes too thick and doesn’t apply the same as fresh.

Don’t try to paint a second coat or touch up spots while it’s still wet. It will result in a botched look. Put it on heavy enough to cover the surface fully and keep moving down the chassis. Don’t let drips form or they will be there forever.

And if you notice drips later, don’t try to ‘paint’ them off or you’re back to the botched look again. Once dry, it looks like powder coating – smooth and professional. I would definitely recommend it.

I painted my chassis while on the car. It wasn’t a frame-off paint job which would have been mush easier.

Excellent product Easy to apply leaves no brush strokes if kept wet. Only problem was getting can open pretty much destroyed the lid I would still use this product. Summits service was great as it always is you can’t go wrong using summit racing.

Tip 1: don’t get the paint on anything you’ll regret. Neither thinner nor acetone will remove it! Tip 2: get a small high density foam roller. Will go much faster. Tip 3: give yourself 4 hours to paint the frame in one continuous session.

If you leave your brush or roller for 30minutes, it’s unusable. Tip 4: don’t get it on any bolt threads. Will need to use a die to clean the threads if you do. My steps for painting frame: 1-scrape grease off 2-power wash 3-degreaser plus wire wheel 4-degreaser again then power wash 5-etch 6-paint.

I send blasted my Jeep frame with the wet sandblasting kit from Power eagle and it instantly flash rusted as it uses water along with sand to blast down to the bare metal. Rust is absolutely what I did not want right after I blast it down bare metal but as it was only flash rust after I used the cleaner and degreaser and rinsed it off I hit the entire frame with the metal prep solution and was absolutely dumbfounded.

The metal prep solution devoured The Flash rust and etched the metal back to a very light gray color. This was a huge relief because I didn’t know how I was going to proceed with the entire frame flash rusted.

Then I was ready to do my first coat. I brushed the first coat of black matte on and it took approximately four to five hours to get to the point where it was more dry than wet but khaki and yet not sticky.

Then I did the second coat in Gray so that I could tell where I had started and left off in order to make sure that I got full coverage. I spilled a little on the top of a job site box which enabled me to test its abrasion and impact resistance the next day.

Approximately 12 hours later I chiseled at it with a screwdriver (not shatp, (just normal) and no penetration down to the middle and no scuffing of the por-15. Then I beat on it lightly with a ball peen hammer and same result.

Then I hit it with hey cordless drill and wire wheel which scuffed it a little bit but not much. Definitely enough to take your skin off and draw blood. For my last test I used a 4 inch grinder with a grinding wheel and just bumping it caused very minor scuffs.

I have to really lean into it to get the grinding wheel to take any of it off. I think this is probably the best protective coating I’ve ever used. I still have to do the truck cab front clip Hood fenders and bed and I am certain that I’ll have have the same or better results there too.

Seems significantly more effective than spray-on rust encapsulator products. Finish has the look, feel, and seeming durability of a powder-coat finish. Prep is important: if applied over loose rust, then the toughness of the finish is undermined by the ease of chipping the loose rust off.

If you brush and/or sand the rust down so that it is surface rust only, then this product bonds like bonkers. It also bonds to whatever else it touches, including skin, fingernails, clothing, driveway pavement, and the lid of the can itself.

If you plan to use this across multiple projects, be aware that the product that collects in the lip of the can will bond the lid closed and you’ll have to damage the lid to get it open next time. You only get a few cracks at one can before you’ve got a product that can’t be resealed.

I used a microfiber-covered sponge for application, which worked well. You can use a paintbrush or sponge brush. You should assume that your application tool will be ruined after application. The finish looks good and seems significantly more durable than competing products.

Overall, I’m pleased with the product itself. Works very well and performs as advertised. I would have rated higher, but there were a few things that I believe could have been better. First, please produce semi-gloss in the 6 pack, same as you do gloss black.

I had to order 1 quart of semi-gloss and it is tough to use it all in one application. Had problems removing the lid to use the product a second time (2nd coat) which then damaged the lid. I wanted to apply a 3rd coat and could not due to the lid being damaged.

which ultimately caused the product that was left to dry out before I could apply the 3rd coat. If there is a way to purchase semi gloss in the 6 pack, please let me know as I need to purchase more product to complete the project.

I’m reluctant to buy another quart as about 1/2 of the quart was wasted (thrown away) as it was no longer usable.

Used this product to soundproof my wheel wells and reduce the tire noise on my Hyundai Accent. Six cans and many coats were applied. It reduced the noise until it all wore off three months later. I cleaned the wheel well cover and roughed it up with a wire brush.

Followed instructions and made sure it cured over a 24 hour period above 50 degrees. Didn’t work. It won’t stick permanently to hard plastic wheel well covers evidently.

This product sprayed evenly and has a good rubberized texture, but it did not have the heavy, rough finish I wanted. Tried various techniques to spray but nothing was better.

I always get great results from Rust-Oleum, I have used other undercoatings and I prefer the Quality of this undercoating. The cans have more volume than others I have used as well as the price is very good for the quality and volume of the product compared to others I have used.

I also like the way it comes out of the spray nozzle. it sprays very even and has very consistent coverage, while spraying the nozzle stays open much better than others I have used.

Haven’t used undercoating in over 20 years. Just bought some. This stuff is excellent, coats with a good layer, smooth, fills seams good, doesn’t drip or run, looks great, not much over spray at all, and good price.

I’d say Rustoleum hit the nail on the head with this. Oh and sprays upside down also. Was going to by the Rustoleum Pro, but this says it has Asphalt, and thats what it should be!.

I liked the fact it went on in a nice mist spray. The coat is even and easy to apply. The finish is good. Covered the area spraying very well. You do get a rubberized finish. I will purchase again.

works great dries dark , just don’t get on your clothes or your screwed , i had to wash my work shirt in diesel but got it out. works great on the wheel wells. allow time to dry and mask off areas that you dont want coverage.

Not impressed. I prefer duplicolor undercoating. Not a spray pattern and it came out like a firehouse. Which gets very goopy. I would steer clear of this product. Looks like garbage. I will be returning what I did not use.

This has been the best under coating by far. Used other stuff and it was pointless. This was able to spray underneath my cargo trailer without an issue. Also really good coverage

Decent stuff. Sprays nice with a very controllable spray. Minimal masking. Takes awhile to dry! Looks brown til it drys black.

Seems so work well. Very thick, like peanut butter consistency. I used a cheapo brush to apply and it worked, but not the best. I should have used a stiffer bristle brush. I’m happy with results so far.

I was able to mask areas off with painter’s tape, I removed tape before it was dry in fear it would bond the tape and ruin the clean line. Definitely wear gloves, stuff gets everywhere.

This is the second time I have purchased this product. If the need comes up again I will buy again. A great product. Goes on easy and sets up fast. Looks like a professional job when completed. Highly recommend.

This undercoat product is exactly what I expected it to be. Easy to brush or roll on surfaces. It dose have a strong chemical oder when applying, but goes away when it dries. I will definitely use this product again.

Bought this to protect some spots under my Jeep that were not being very protected from the Salt used here in New York State. I sprayed it on and it went on smoothly. Looks very good and it covered everything very good.

I even sprayed it under my hood in open spots to protect there also. I did this a few time and let it dry between times. Great Product at a very good price. Highly recommend this product and this Company!.

This Dupli-Color Professional Undercoat is vastly better than those wispy thin sprays. This has solids similar to roofing adhesive except your hanging it from a can. You will not be disappointed. Purchase more than you estimate for coverage.

Example I replaced a third sections of front floor pan both sides etched surfaces, primed with red oxide, then hung this Dupli-Color Undercoat Sound Eliminator.

Well packaged rubberized undercoating. I’d already used 3 cans before buying these two, so was very pleased with the immediate outcome. Used them to blacken my wheel wells and some underbody.

I purchased a few different kinds of undercoating/bedliner spray on products to test out which I liked. So far have sprayed the duplicolor bedliner on a lower control arm, and the 3m rubberized undercoating product on the other lower control arm.

I followed directions, and started shaking both cans. Almost immediately, I got the ball loose on the 3m can. after 3 minutes, my arm was numb, still didn’t get the ball loose on the duplicolor; decided to spray both anyway.

3m came out of the can awesome; good pressure, nice bubbly product how I had envisioned it would look, duplicolor came out nice at first, but then the nozzle got drippy; goes on a little more “flat”, coats nicely however.

Turned both products upside down and sprayed to clear the product from the nozzel, 3m went just fine, Duplicolor cleared but then some product bubbled at the nozzle, had to manually wipe it off. Left the cans and control arms out in the sun and went back for a 2nd coat, the 3m can’s ball was still loose; shook the Duplicolor vigorously again for 2 minutes, still no ball.

I let them both sit for another 30 minutes after applying an extra coat. The 3m was dry, but underneath was not cured, as I smudged off a fingerprint-sized area and had to re-apply. Cautiously touching the duplicolor control arm, it felt much harder, and didn’t smudge with some pressure.

So after some thinking about what to write, if you’re looking to coat stuff for sound-deadening and ease of use, the 3m is surely the product for wheel wells, etc. If you’re looking to protect undercarriage parts from road debris, etc, I’ll be sticking with the duplicolor.

This stuff is terrible to use, spray is inconsistent and make a huge mess. I’ve used other brands that are far superior to this. Cannot believe a well known company like Permatex would have this junk in their lineup.

It’s undercoating! Not super exciting stuff, but it works well. Coverage is good and it sprays on easy. Comes with regular application nozzle and one with a spray straw to get into tight spaces. May not be as flexible as you would expect from rubberized undercoating, but it’s not an issue in the way I used it (to coat the roof in the cab of my F250 after rust repairs.

).

Low VOC is right ! I did like using this product. It leaves a bit smoother finish than the similar Rustoleum can spray (which leaves a slightly rougher texture than the SEM product). Tough finish once allowed to dry.

better then flex stuff , sprays heavy works great , it seals well . worth the money