20 Best Two Part Epoxy (2022 Updated)

Brought this as a high temperature epoxy filler to cover up an electrical repair. Quick setting (mix and immediately fill else it goes too thick). Seemed to go hard within an hour. Left over night and was rock solid the next day.

Also used as body filler on a car panel repair. Was easy to apply and sand down afterwards. Didnt seem to stick very well to shiny metal, like aluminium or stainless steel, hence only 4*.

Sorted crack on my vw new beetle plastic bumper. It was about 20 cm long and this amount of resin was enough. I drilled holes on both sides of the crack and support it from back with plastic, builders mash.

Araldite is very smooth to work with. Takes very little effort to mix both components. Has long working time, it is stated 90 mins but I did a job in about 8 mins and during application on and around crack, it had nice texture, enough smooth to place it where I want but hard enough not to drop.

Hopefully my wife will pay more attention on walls, other cars bumpers and bollards so I wouldn’t need any of this repair stuff but reality is that in about two months I am at Halfords buying new Araldite.

I was tasked with repairing an old Swarovski figurine and researched how best to do it. It was only then that I became aware of the existence of epoxy that dries clear and colourless. I’m sure there are unbranded versions that are cheaper but the Araldite product was easy to use and did the job perfectly.

Make sure you read the instructions before use and DO NOT mix up the tube caps or you’ll only get to use the glue once.

I purchased 20 of these to help repair my porch posts and spindles. Although described as five minute set time I found it seemed workable for about 10 minutes and then started getting solid quite quickly after that.

I found the easiest way to work with it was to use a paper coffee cup and cut it down to about two inches high. Then I’d empty 50% to 100% into the cup and mix it thoroughly with a popsicle stick. Then I’d bend the cup so it had a pouring spout; and used the popsicle stick to guide the glue into the mold I created with masking or duct tape? I let it harden over night then sanded it with a grinder as it’s extremely hard.

If given the choice to pay extra for Locltitie over the Ace and Devcon brands, do it. For some totally ridiculous reason, now all Devcon and Ace duel-plunger glues come with caps that don’t even pretend to stay on, when you try and save the glue you didn’t use when you first opened it.

How Ace can sell their glues in these containers is something they need to explain. Until they do, stick with Locktite, which continues to use the sort of snap-on caps that Ace products used to use.

I have seen several reviews of product leaves dimples and doesnt self level. product wont stick to my project and leaves large spots of project with large area where epoxy uneven with crators in epoxy.

I am not saying that the epoxy that you received wasnt a bad batch but with my experience with this epoxy is that everytime that happened to me it was because my canvas or project was contaminated with either some kind of oil or silicone thos are just a couple examples.

The fix for this is to clean your molds and anything added to epoxy like jewels etc, canvas, wood, etc. with either a clean rag and rubbing alchol(NOT ALOT OF ALCHOL ON THE RAG VERY LITTLE JUST DAMPEN SMALL SECTION OF RAG AND QUICKLY WIPE OVER YOUR SURFACES).

No scrubbing required just a quick wipe over then let the item dry it wont take long. if alcohol isnt option you can also use dawn dishwashing liquid and water to dampen rag. 2 drops dawn on rag with water no suds required wipe over and let dry.

if you are coating pour painting art all canvas needs to be dried then cleaned before using epoxy. There are contaminates and oils in those mixes and ingredients. This should fix your issue as long as your on level surface when pouring if it doesnt then i would say yes your batch of epoxy is bad.

So far, I don’t have anything negative to say about product performance other than there’s sooo many air bubbles regardless of how slow you stir, but as long as you keep that in mind after pouring, you can take extra care with the heat gun to get rid of them.

It’s pretty clear and if the room you’re working in is warm, you have about 40 minutes of work time however, I think full cure time is less than other epoxys I’ve used which allows me to make more product.

That being said. There was a SIGNIFICANT difference in the amount of the two bottles so there will be some loss and I hadn’t factored that into the cost. This isn’t a spectacular product nor is it the worst but I’m not sure if, with the amount lossed due to the shortage of hardener that it’s the best quality/price balance.

Bottom line is that I didn’t get what I paid for and I don’t think I’ll be ordering again for that reason alone.

Great deal for a full gallon of resin. Great shine to this resin. Takes a full 72 hours to cure. Better price here than other places. I use my resin over acrylic pours and it makes my art pop!! Will purchase again.

Provides an decent bond, but for the high price (with such a small quantity) I was expecting better from JB Weld. At least in my experience with the product, (after properly mixing, and letting it sit a minute or so per instructions) it didn’t set in an hour.

It was still very malleable, almost silicone like. I was expecting rock hard epoxy. It did eventually set a few days later but JB Weld’s claims on the package are a bit misleading. Maybe I got a bad batch.

Excellent product. great hold and quick setting. On the other hand, it was so quick to set that while securing my ‘weld’, which only took a few minutes, the application nozzle clogged with the epoxy and is no longer usable.

Maybe my fault because I did not clear it immediately, but had to set my clamps first. Overall a good value however will have to make an applicator to use effectively again.

Thought I could use this to “fill in” cracked ceramic cup but this is primarily for bonding purposes. Since I did not have the “chips” to reattach, I could not really use this. I originally was looking for Milliput but you did not have this in your store.

Keeping this for future use for bonding purposes.

Good, clear glue for repairs. Can’t comment on longevity, but seems strong. It doesn’t expand when it dries BUT does take up some space – you’re unlikely to achieve an invisible join on something like a broken mug with this, but neither will any other glue and I imagine it’s one of the products which will get you closest to it.

You need to mix the two compounds to create the glue, but instructions are clear and easy. It’s not a fast-drying glue, but that can be very useful if there are bits to fiddle with.

So far I have used this product to repair a broken pottery handle and the spar from a gazebo. The product is easy to mix and the dark colour did help me to see where I had applied it. In both cases I prepared the joint to give the Araldite a clean surface to bond to and some clearance.

The pottery handle would be subjected to frequent handling and so to achieve the strongest joint that I could envisage I drilled the fracture faces to enable steel pins to be inserted, such that they would bridge the joint.

The Araldite was then applied into these holes and the steel pins inserted. The joint was made with small amounts of cyanoacrylate glue on the faces. The cyanoacrylate provided an instand bond to hold the joint whilst the Araldite was allowed to cure.

The surplus Araldite on the mixing card showed that it hardened to a strong and brittle material, which was now bonding three steel pins across the original fracture. The gazebo repair was carried out by bonding a shaped wooden moulding inside the broken oval steel tube.

Both repairs are still holding up and I am very pleased with the product. The only problem that I have had with previous forms of this product is that the screw caps can become difficult to remove and replace once they have been used a few times.

To avoid this it is necessary to avoid the contents of the tubes from contaminating the threads. Time will tell!.

The product really is outstanding!. slightly flexible (or it wouldn’t work well on a boat hull) It does dry white in spite of one review here. I think I know why there was a problem. This epoxy, like many others, will pick up color from the water environment.

if there is any. I used this for objects in a model wave tank. The water had a bit of blue food coloring added to make the water visible. The PC-11 picked up that blue color. It may be porous on the surface (just guessing) Acrylic paint sticks very well PC-11.

some of the objects i use this epoxy to make, are painted and must stay under water for a long time. Epoxy paint and Acrylic paint work well. It is a slow curing epoxy. might explain it’s tendency to bond very well to marine surfaces.

I have some travertine in my shower that developed ugly blotches from the filler deteriorating. This waterproof two part epoxy works well for patching those, and filling other small voids. After removing the damage, and cleaning, it was easy to mix a small amount, apply it with a plastic putty knife.

Then I came back later, after the epoxy firmed up, and used a razor scraper to remove and level the filler. It blends as well as the original. Set up nicely after a day or two. Firm enough for vertical application.

PC-11 worked very well as the directions stated. Repairs on a 13′ fiberglass boat (Boston Whaler) were no larger than dime size mainly on the bottom of the boat. No gauges were deep enough to go through the fiberglass to the foam flotation.

PC-11 is very easy to use with mixing equal amounts of A & B. With the use of wax paper over the areas to be fixed makes it very easy to smooth out the epoxy and tape the edges of the wax paper for a few hours before removing.

Only slight sanding was necessary. The off white color was a bit lighter but hey the boat is a 1983, so I feel the gelcoat was faded a bit. After using mild rubbing compound and fiberglass polish the results look great.

I bought the 1 pound containers which is way more than I needed, but the shelf life is 2 years +.

Second project, much larger this time. Mixed easy, application was easy and even less bubbles this time. Unfortunately, I let the project dry outside and the varying amounts of sun/shade affected the results.

Areas hit by direct sunlight didn’t produce the same results as those under shade. Applied a second coat. All good now. Definitely better to allow your project to dry in an open garage with temps between 70-80 degrees.

Thinking of my next use.

When ur selling a gallon kit u should explain that it’s not gallons it’s half gallons per bottle. I know I payred way more money than I should have for these items. I thought they where both one gallon bottles, pretty deceiving these items, not what I expected.

Pay WAY TO MUCH AS WELL.

We use this product all the time for making table tops. It is very easy to use. You just pour the same amounts in a cup or container and stir. Takes about 30 min to start setting so plenty of time to work with it.

We don’t have any problems with it and the cost is cheapest we have found. We will continue to get this product for all our projects.

A little disappointed, maybe I got a bad batch. Thoroughly mixed entire tube. Smelled skunky and hardened oily and sticky. Not the result I wanted. Will try something else next project.

To set the stage, I am a master carpenter, general contractor, wood worker, lumberman, and engineer. I take wood working and associated products very seriously. They are the mainstay of my work and spare time.

I had been entertaining the idea of doing some wood/epoxy integrated turnings and stumbled across this high performance Total Boat epoxy system and mentioned to my wife that it would be a nice and reasonable Christmas gift idea and my entry into the world of epoxy.

The kit was so outstanding that I have not turned back and am producing some of the most beautiful simple creations integrating Total Boat and hand selected hardwoods. I have had more requests for these items from coworkers and family that I have time to produce in my spare time.

I have not kept one of them as they have all gone out the door to grace the tables and homes of family and some of the highest ranking culinary experts the industry, including a Certified Master Chef.

(A very big deal, approx. only 77 of them country wide). I have found creating these works of art has become an obsession and believe it or not, with the correct minimal amount of tools, these items can be crafted by Do It Yourselfers and Pros alike.

This product comes with my full endorsement as being exactly as advertised and reputed. Five stars.

I have watched lots fo YouTube videos of makers using Epoxy to make cutting boards, and decided to try making some as Christmas gifts. Many of the makers I follow use TotalBoat, so I figured I would to (support the companies that support the makers).

The TB medium harder 2:1 epoxy has been SUPER easy to use, the buckets make it simple to mix and the results have been great! I ended up buying a second order of epoxy as well to make even MORE cutting boards as they ended up being so fun to make and pretty.

(I already got a friend to purchase some as well).

I’m new to epoxy and to boat building. (15′ ultra light plywood Dory) Jamestown distributors was extremely helpful answering my questions. I thought I had completely ruined the project but called, sent pictures and they talked me through the solution.

The epoxy and all the products are great. They perform exactly as they say and the finish is beautiful. I am surprised at how much every epoxy I had to use on a boat the size of a large canoe. But that could be my inexperience.

I can’t say enough GREAT things about the team at JD that I had interaction with. Ordering was easy and product arrived fast! Staff were helpful and provide the best experience and service. Keep up the good work! Thank you.

That glue held. It’s just too bad the plastic broke again in a different place than I had glued…lol

It is as strong as it claims.

This item mixes easily, flows nice and dyes clear. I use it for clear coating crank bait lures. It’s a little pricey but, works great.

TT Epoxy works exactly as advertised. As a sculptor I use it to blue marble stones together for sculpting. This Epoxy is the best and strongest I have found. I also use it for repairing gauge and cracks in the carving.

And for color details by adding a color tint for inlays & eyes etc.

I only use this epoxy for attaching various knife scales to handles. For this application it works great.

I went to my local Ace looking for a syringe of JB Weld quick-set epoxy. They only had Ace- and Devcon-brand epoxy, both of which seemed identical, with identical syringe/cap design (other than price).

JB Weld advertises itself as 5-minute epoxy, while this stuff says it’s 10-minute epoxy, so I was expecting a longer working time. In reality, the working time with this is significantly less than the JB Weld, and less than 2 minutes after I stopped mixing it it started to set and change color to yellow.

After less than 3 minutes the epoxy in the tray was a solid gummy mass. This was completely unexpected, and I had to mix up multiple small batches to complete my project (which took less than 10 minutes, total).

Like others, I had problems with the caps. If you simply snap off the caps as per the instructions, the caps will not firmly fit on the end of the syringe after use. I was able to pound them in with a bit of force, but the JB Weld solution is far better (especially since with JB Weld you insert the plug, then rotate the plug to lock it into place-a much more secure solution).

I have been using this product for some time and have always found that it does exactly what I require from 2 part epoxy resin with a short cure time. It really does stick and stops stuck, the only proviso is that parts and items that are being joined together must be absolutely clean and dry.

I would recommend this glue above similar products.

These tubes are much more practical/ less wasteful and cleaner to use than the 2 cylinder ‘pump’ type dispensers -several of which from different manufacturers had been unsuccessfully tried and I had fallen back on the old araldite tubes which are good but just too slow.

Retains the ability to make adjustments to positioning unlike superglue but you only have a work time of about 5mins in normal indoor temperatures so unwise to mix more than you can use within this time period Clamping together or weighting down for 30mins if possible greatly improves bond.

Really A+ for modelling applications.

An epoxy for all seasons indeed. This stuff is great and useful for so many things. I had a front sight of a rifle that was too low – and they have not made replacement taller sights in 110 years. I needed help – so a very small amount of 2 part epoxy got the sight a bit taller.

The cured epoxy is able to be filed smooth and shaped to match the contours of the old sight – only a bit taller. It is very dark grey so it blended in seamlessly. I have competed in 2 rifle shoots at the local gun club (came first in the second!) and the sight is still firmly attached.

The barrel gets quite hot in these extended shooting competitions and nothing has moved! I think the epoxy works well and recommend it!.

This is by far my favorite epoxy when strength and/or high temperature resistance are a must. The first time I used it was around 1986-87, when a strong winds blew my Napoleon BBQ Grill of the deck , braking the cast-aluminum main body into 4 or 5 parts.

One of the workers in now defunct Channel hardware store suggested the JB Weld Cold Weld Epoxy. Once the epoxy cured, it created a perfectly smooth and tremendously strong joining. The grill lasted for the next 18 years, withstanding 650 F temperatures without any noticeable degradation in strength or appearance.

If not for my 150 lbs mutt, who’s leash got caught on one of the grill’s hooks, resulting in it being drugged at about 45 mph across the cement pool deck and all around the pool, I would still be using it now.

I bought the J-B Weld because I had run out. This time I needed to reinstall a faucet lever because the threads no longer held. So far so good. But I have faith in the product and have been using it for over 50 years.

Perhaps my favorite — and least believable — story was when a water jacket on my auto engine cracked releasing lots of steam. I was able to ‘weld’ the break and it held at least long enough to drive the car into an auto dealer to trade it in on another car.

I finally managed to resin a custom Minecraft Lego table I painted for my kids. It ended up working well, but only after five or six FAILED layers! I feel that there need to be better instructions to save other people the hassle: – it is best to leave both bottles in a bucket of hot tap water for an hour so they are warmed up at the time of application.

It makes the resin more fluid, easier to apply, and reduces the amount of bubbles. – the resin and hardener need to be measured in volume and NOT in weight because they have different densities. Measuring in weight will result in a wrong ratio and tacky spots.

– if some of the product isn’t perfectly mixed, it will result in permanent tacky spots. The TotalBoat instructions say to mix slowly to avoid bubbles; however, if mixing not fast enough in the allotted time, the product may not be entirely mixed.

– it is best to mix the product in 2 or 3 smaller simultaneous batches at the time of application, rather than one larger batch. I mixed half a gallon worth of product in larger containers for the correct amount of time and it wasn’t mixed well enough, resulting in many tacky spots.

– It is important to watch the bubbles for at least 15-20 minutes and pop them with a heat gun on low setting. They keep appearing after 10 minutes. Don’t walk away too fast! Overall, this is a good product, but I had to order it three times because I kept having failed layers, so it ended up pretty expensive, frustrating and time consuming.

If I were to do another table, I would reorder it and do it well the first time, now that I know what to do and not to do.

Even after a seal coat I had some off gassing and micro bubbles in the second layer. Once the second layer cooled to room temp I poured the third layer and bubbles appeared in the second layer. After the resin hardened the bubbles were drilled out with a counter sink bit in a router, repaired ant the forth coat was applied which turned out perfect.

The micro bubbles appeared in the first and second layers under direct sunlight. I’m guessing the temperature was slightly too cold when I poured the first two coats of resin. I will be buying more of this product in the future, and double checking the ambient temperature of room and resin/hardener before I mix and pour, if no micro bubbles are found I’d love to change the rating to 5 stars!.

I’ve used this stuff to finish coat my oak gearshift knob for my Jeep, overcoat a plastic finger-ring, and as a build-up over inks and liquid acrylic paints on top of hexagram (two-dimensional rep of icosahedron) magnetically pointed, creating a vortex, think: “Metatron Cube” flattened into a Star of David.

I even made an ocean wave standing upright. This epoxy makes project success a much simpler task. I’ve mixed effectively, as little as 15ml (=7. 5ml + 7. 5ml); many times. The finish is incredibly durable.

Much greater than all the varnishes, polyurethanes & lacquers, I’ve used in the past. I’ve just built the “Art-Deco” door and drawer fronts for my lower base, kitchen cabinets. I’m going to pour a 1/16th inch finish coat over 5/8 inch MDF covered and inlaid with wood veneers, 1/8 inch protruding, polished-aluminum design trims; up to a polished-aluminum edge banding (3/4 inch polished sides that also extend above the veneer by 1/8 inch).

In thirty-plus years as a licensed, upscale/high-end Builder & GC, I’ve never seen a higher-quality product, to protect the intricate details (& weeks of time), than The Epoxy Resin Store’s “Best Clear Epoxy” as the final, protective finish! And “Glassy” is also “the look” we need, for true Art-Deco appearance.

If I had a way of uploading pictures, I would. Pictures always make me feel better when following someone else’s feedback or instructions.

I’ve tried 3 to 4 different resins to finish my acrylic canvas paintings. Prior to discovering this resin, It was so frustrating to apply coat after coat of other epoxy resins without getting “fish eyes” and other concerning issues that required additional coats.

I was extremely shocked after applying the first coat of your product and finding that no other coats were required. The lower cost of your product and the time saved from not having to apply multiple coats is exactly what should be expected.

The finish is impressive as it does not have the overly shiny glare but a subtle glow. I purchase your 2 gallon containers as I always want it on-hand. I’m cautious about providing such a positive review for fear that there’ll be a price increase or others will figure out what a great product this is and I then find it Out of Stock 😁.

Actually, I share this information to all my online acrylic painting friends and about anyone else who’ll listen. Thank you so much.

I got this epoxy from my sister. Sure wasn’t using it so I told her to let me but it from her. The fact I was spending so much money 16oz bottles that were costing up to $30+ for that small amount was heartbreaking.

She found out about this company from somebody she worked with. I tried this epoxy and it’s the best I ever used. The small amount of bubbles. The high gloss shine is perfect. The amount of items I can do before I can’t work with it.

The coupons they regularly send. I’m in love with this company and this will be the only epoxy I use from now on. I’m also looking forward to trying the pigment colors and the alcohol ink.

I purchased this epoxy to test and learn. It performed as advertised. My first pour was a seal coat. I put making tape on the edges and clear shipping tape on the bottom where the liquid might flow thru.

The seal was effective. It soaked into knots and cracks and didn’t completely fill them. The next day I scuffed the service and made the second pour. I left the original tape around the surface which was a mistake.

After 10 minutes I tried to remove the tape so it would flow over the edges. The tape would not come off cleanly. The lesson is to Retape after each pour. My second error was not sealing the end grain sufficiently.

My second test applying the lessons in the first went well. The epoxy leveled nicely, my heat gun took care of the bubbles, and it dried crystal clear. I intentionally waited 20 minutes and tried to add epoxy from the mixing cup and exactly as expected it wouldn’t level.

I followed the directions and this product performed as expected.

I hope this is the world’s worst epoxy, anything else would be unimaginable. I’ve used 2-part 5 minute expoys since about 1974 or 75, starting w/ places that have hot fuel exposure, and engine vibration on things that fly, where the hold is critical.

Never had a problem. I’ve used a couple of different brands, the original Devcon w/b preferred, but the Ace brand is also extremely good, sets as expected, hold is strong on a variety of materials. Some time ago I tried Gorilla glue and had trouble, it didn’t set after hours on a plastic air intake and was almost sucked into the engine.

I called tech support and was told I was using it wrong, and it didn’t work on certain plastics. Since I mix epoxies on a plastic lid and often peel it off afterwords, I sorta know intuitively which plastics and the intake I didn’t think was but I went with their advice: I’d used it wrong.

Then after peeling what was left of the Gorilla stuff off – and it was still soft over 24 hrs later, I mixed up Ace’s 5-minute epoxy and in no time it was hard adhered and I’d sealed the intake, that was a year or so ago, it’s still there; under the hood of a car to be clear.

So maybe I HADN’T USED IT WRONG < oops, inadvertant caps lock, ha! Apropo, I'm leaving it. Not an isolated incident. Everything I used this product on has had problems, first I'm told mine's expired (2014 product code), okay I got a new pack - same problems (the Ace brand I just used today, Copywrite 2005, worked perfectly) I'm told I'm mixing it wrong, good deal, and good thing I didn't mix it wrong 45 years ago on the airplanes! And everything else since; I've been mixing and using all kinds of two part types of glue during those 45 years without a problem, so what's special about this? Apparently you "have to" mix it in the little tray on the package AND you mustn't let it spread out when you mix.

Okay then, I tried those precautions. Except neither of those remedies worked. 3 hrs later, still not set.

just fine, and as expected, once you get a normal mixture down. However, the plunger is much more flexible than other manufacturer’s product, so it is far too easy to end up with a batch that can take overnight to harden.

I’m talking real rubbery and gooey. Moreover, do not store with the plunger side down, unlike other manufacturer’s product the epoxy does leak slowy out of this end. It is for this fact that I rated this product so low.

Also the oneway tab on the cap needs to be more prominent.

This works great! I used it to glue rhinestones to brass buttons on a jean jacket. It dried clear and so far it is wearing like iron. I liked the fact that you squeeze out what you need as you work. It dries very fast.

I did work on a porcelain figure with it as well. That didn’t work as well but mostly due to my impatience. I didn’t hold on as long as I should have to make sure it was permanently set. One thing to note.

I got it on my fingers (alot) and it rubs off with some dish soap.

This is a product that really works, even under heat and pressure. I used to fix my split plastic part of radiator hose of my car. I was skeptical that it would work under such heat and pressure just close to engine as it says on packing max 80C.

I read the review of one person who fixed crack in radiator reservoir tank and it fixed from him. This inspired me to go ahead Here’s what I did. 1. Thoroughly clean both surfaces, sandpaper is ideal for this job.

Later, cleaned with alcohol hand sanitizer. ( every one has it in these covid days) 2. Dry the surfaces 3. Make sure you take equal quantities of resin and hardner, from each tube. Mix as instructed on packing.

This is a chemical reaction and works more perfectly at warmer temperatures, so I had to take out that broken plastic hose from radiator and brought in home. 4. Apply the mixed compound to the required area and hold it firm or place under light pressure.

This is the most critical part to ensure that after sticking both parts, there should stay intact without even slight movement. I didn’t wipe the excess as I wanted to reinforce the joint externally.

5. Immediately after sticking both parts together, I warmed the joint with hair drier for 10 minutes, then 5min break and then for another 10 min and left overnight for about 12 hours. 6. In the morning, it was solid hard and ready to be fitted.

7. its 2 weeks now, 600kms driven in summer, still no leak at all. I am very happy that this product has saved me from expensive replacement part. hope this helps you too. Regards.

I used Araldite Rapid adhesive to attach a piece of wood to the interior of a fibreglass boat. Despite the 5 minute reference in the name, I would say that it took about an hour to go hard enough to handle in 15c to 20c.

This is still pretty good in my opinion because some epoxy resins take several hours. The glue did not drip out of the joint despite me using quite a thickness to fill the uneven gap – good again. I temporarily held the wood in place with duct tape while it went hard.

I fully expect that after 24 hours it will have cured to full strength and be stronger than both the wood and the fibreglass. I have used epoxy resin of all sorts and this one is very convenient to measure out and use.

I’d been looking at both this and the Gorilla Resin. This is a little cheaper and had better reviews, but didn’t have the syringe function. I went with this as it had better reviews and I’m glad I did.

Easy enough to squeeze out and the mixing plastic tool is surprisingly useful. I used it on plastic and taped the joint while it set (even taping over where the epoxy had been). After 30-mins removed the tape (and it came off the epoxy part fine) and then left it for another couple of hours to fully set.

Very, very strong. I’d recommend reading the instructions (on the packet) before use, just so you do what it says to do (the trick of using a blade to remove excess whilst it is partially set works well too).

Plenty in the tubes though and OK to store given there can be no cross contamination. Really pleased with the purchase and Toolstation excellent as usual with C+C with it being in stock in the local store.

I would give this zero stars if I could. This claims to bond a variety of materials, with the fine print being not as effective on some plastics. I bought it to use on a decor craft project, only reading this detail after I finished so when it came apart I chalked it up to that because I followed the directions closely.

Next I used it to bond metal to glass for another decor project and had a similar result. Note, these are not “high traffic” items, mainly just sitting there so I can’t imagine it being useful for any type of repair on an item that gets regular use.

Simply worthless, actually worse than that because I have wasted my time. To top it all off, it was messy and a hassle to apply alongside having terrible fumes. For nothing!.

Ugh. this stuff! Walmart was out of Loctite brand, so I got this. It might “set” in 5 min, but its sticky for hours. It also thinkens pretty quickly after you mix it. I’ll find Loctite online and hopefully never need to use this brand again.

For what I use this for, it just doesn’t work well. The Loctite brand doesn’t thicken as quickly so I can typically use the entire amount I mix, it also completely dries much faster.

It did not harden. My application was repairing my glasses frame, metal-on-metal. I mixed the two parts of Gorilla Glue Epoxy thoroughly, used a tiny dab on an applicator, clamped it, and let it set over-night.

Not only did the repair not hold but the spot on my tool bench where I mixed the epoxy was still a sticky. It may work for others, but for me it did not harden.

By far the strongest epoxy resin available. This being clear can be used for various applications but best internally as it can become less transparent used externally. Not cheapest resin available but by far the best.

The 30-minute set time is convenient. I use it to glue a metal screens to cement and it holds very nicely. Unlike some other brands, the Devcon plunger pushes the epoxy and resin out nice and evenly and with little effort, a nice thing if you’re using all of it at once and an even bigger plus if you’re only using some of it.

Also, the plastic caps it comes with stays put on the cut tube ends better than any of the other brands of epoxy I’ve used, so much less likely to have it accidentally spill out in the tool box. What’s not to like about this product?.

This is a good quality, general purpose, epoxy adhesive. It is easy to get equal measures of the two part adhesive, so the reliability of the adhesive when it is thoroughly mixed is generally better than epoxy using two separate tubes.

When it has fully set, I have found that this epoxy is much harder and more brittle than some other epoxy glues so care is needed as to where it is used. It works well gluing wood to wood metal to metal and wood to metal (if everything is very clean and grease/dust free.

The only problem I have had with this glue is that when you first use it the first few grams of the white glue component is very gritty and the strength of the glue is not so good. However, when the white glue component runs nice and smooth, it works extremely well.