20 Best Vacuum Brake Bleeder (2022 Updated)

This is one of them tools that makes you second guess spending money on other tools that didn’t save you time, but thats the not the case with this brake bleeder, its money well spent on a quality tool.

No more waiting for your helper to pump the brakes and no more directions to give and No more mess. I was concerned about what size compressor to use, but my 6 gallon K-balt compressor worked fine, i set the regulator to 75psi and off i was bleeding my brakes.

The only reason for not giving a 5 star review was the idea of using the self filling round or square plexiglass brake fluid bottle holder is really… well…. Not to bright, and on some cars it wont work due to height/girth restrictions, and if your not careful its going to make a mess getting the bottle of brake fluid off the master cylinder reservoir.

I saw a review on Home Essentials Direct where the guy found a fix to stop the leaking of air while in the off position and I contemplated performing something similar. Truth is it works fine but it leaks air while in the off position.

So it makes the compressor kick in more frequently. I wrote to the manufacturer and got the following response “A small amount of air leakage is normal. You may hear a slight kissing when the throttle is off but the air flow is not sufficient to generate vacuum.

” Can’t see how we can put a man on the moon (allegedly) but can’t make a brake bleeder that doesn’t leak air. The unit works very nicely and I like how the container has straight edges which makes it easy to open.

Vacuum was good and I like all the extra attachments. However, that leaking is unacceptable to me so I bought something else that does the same thing for half the price.

the items included are looks like they are made from high quality parts. the hoses all the way down to the attachments are of high quality. i have no idea why it leaks air so much to make it ineffective.

also the brake fluid auto filler leaks. the main issue i have is that it leaks air when vacuuming like crazy. most of the air compressor you use will try to keep up but the main air loss is from the unit.

it leaks when you attach the air line. it leaks when you turn it on in the hand unit. it leaks at the valve. it leaks too much to make it work well. the re-filler also leaks out brake fluid once you attempt the auto fill.

it just leaks all over the master cylinder and pours on to the floor all you expensive brake fluid. its pretty cheap in price but overall kit doesn’t work. i dont recommend buying it. the evacuation suction unit works very well is the only positive about this kit.

going to try motive brake bleeding unit next.

All the reviewers that mentioned brake fluid leaks out of the pump broke the pump themselves by pumping brake fluid through it which it is not designed for. This is an air pump and not a brake fluid pump.

Brake fluid will dissolve the seals, make the plunger stick so that you loose the pin or break the handle. You also should not clean it with any type of solvent as that will destroy it too. Mine finally failed because a borrower sucked brake fluid through it and then sprayed it down with carburetor or brake cleaner.

Bottom line is used and maintained correctly these will last for many years. Keep your hands clean and keep it away from solvents. Don’t mess up and use a hose thats had brake fluid in it for your pump connection and don’t put dirty fittings and reservoirs with brake fluid or solvents on/in them into the storage box when you wipe it down and put it away.

Bought this to “save my marriage” My wife hates helping me bleed brakes. The hoses don’t fit tight on the fittings (except on the gun itself where there are hose barbs) and no clamps were provided, hard to hold all the interconnected pieces together while laying under the truck.

I never did get the hang of this thing and it all kept falling to pieces. I ended up getting to do the job twice, once failing with this thing and the next day with my wife. Just be nicer to your wife/husband/partner/friend and go in being better prepared to do it the old fashioned two person way.

You will then have 70 bucks to go out for a meal to celebrate!.

BLUF: yes, the design of the pin that pulls on the piston rod could be improved, but it’s easy to work around the problem, and I’ll show you how. Now the review. If you are like me, before buying a product you look at what percentage of reviewers have given it a one star rating.

Then you look for common threads. The common thread on this product is the famous pin, that tends to fall out of its hole causing much frustration. A lot of users also get frustrated because they find it difficult to replace the pin, even if they find it on the floor after it has fallen off.

Other than that, the pump works just fine. So, here’s the solution. You’ll need a small vise grip (locking pliers), a bit of thin rubber or cardboard, and some contact cement (see last picture). A woodworking clamp helps, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

The steps: 1. Squeeze the pump to the bottom of the piston stroke and lock the pump in position (see first picture. You can use your hand, a bungee cord, a woodworking clamp, or what have you). 2. Wrap some thin rubber around the piston rod to avoid marring it and clamp it in place using the vice grip.

This will prevent the spring from pulling it back. (See second picture). 4. Remove the woodworking clamp or whatever was keeping the movable lever arm in place. At this point it is easy to remove the movable lever arm which will expose the roll pin (see third picture).

In my case it looked like the roll pin was pretty solidly in the hole (enough friction), but I can see how manufacturing tolerances and temperature excursions may reduce the friction between the pin and the inside of the hole.

So I took a tiny drop of contact cement and put it on each side of the rod where it makes contact with the pin. BINGO. The friction between rod and hole is enough that the pin shouldn’t fall off unless it is forced out of its hole.

If at a later time you need to rebuild the pump, it is relatively easy to overcome the resistance of contact cement, so you haven’t done anything that can’t be undone. Now you know this simple trick and you can deal with the minor design flaw.

Four stars because this simple workaround should not be left up to the user. Otherwise, a handy dual purpose pump.

I bought this 9yrs ago, and it’s been great for the most part, but there are several issues that could be improved on. 1. It won’t stand up on it’s own during use, as the air lines weigh it down, and it constantly wants to tip over.

Using the included base, this is not an issue as long as it’s mounted to the base. Mod #1: JB weld base to main canister. 2. Float constantly gets stuck closed, and while closed the bleeder won’t do a thing.

Finally float rotted and fell off. Mod #2: get rid of float and modify using washers and cotter pin to hold float always open. 3. Air leaks constantly while throttle is in off position causing compressor to cycle on needlessly.

I disassembled, and found design was pretty Chinese to say the least on the throttle. Mod #3: Add inline shutoff to air supply. 4. Hoses mostly went bad and no longer stay attached to air compression fittings.

Mod #4: add hose clamps to all hoses so they stay attached to fittings. 5. The hard line meant to dip down into liquid to suck liquid out is about 1/4″ diameter, which is fine, but it’s adapted to the rubber line via inside fitting adapter, so in other words 1/4″ is reduced to 3/16″ or less, and it constantly clogs.

Mod #5: change adapter from inside to outside. A few issues, nothing major, but things that cause problems that could easily be fixed. I still give it a 4 rating as it works, but I am being pretty easy on the tool in that regard.

This was my first time bleeding brakes. After watching a dozen videos on how to do it I figured I could run around finding all the pieces to make my own one man brake bleed bottle or save myself the time and spend a couple of more bucks for this.

This one man brake bottle comes with everything I needed. The magnet is strong and attached the bottle securely to the rotor so I didn’t need to worry about finding someplace to perch it or knocking it over.

The tapered nozzles for the bleed valve worried me that they wouldn’t fit snuggly but to my surprise they did the trick. The tubing is pretty stiff at first but was surprisingly malleable. About the only thing I didn’t care for was the small bottle.

I was needing to unload some fluid every 3-4 pumps of the brake. That being said it was also a good reminder to check the reservoir and top it off as needed.

So I was very very skeptical when I seen this little dinky thing and I read a couple of reviews that I thought were honest and they must have been because when I started using it with minimal optimism and low expectations but although time consuming it was very effective and virtually flawless if you use it right.

It comes with these little adapters that insert inside of the bleeder if the tube can’t wrap around. I recommend the little inserts and surprisingly if installed firmly enough won’t pop out when pumping the air out.

I highly recommend watching a 10 year old video that AutoZone put out for this thing that shows you the easy step by step. If you don’t mind doing it a little bit longer and save yourself a lot of money it is very effective and in spite of inflation it was worth every penny and is reusable over and over.

I’m very surprised and very happy and would recommended this Little Giant to anyone.

I was gonna try to build my own bleeder kit, but I wasn’t able to find a clear hose at my local autozone that day. So I decided to buy this instead and it worked like a charm. However, there are two things to keep in mind with this: 1.

The instructions are not clear on how to bleed the brakes if doing this by yourself. I had to watch a Youtube video to find out how to do it. 2. The magnet that this comes with is not terribly strong.

To make matters worse, the modern vehicle has very few metal parts in the wheel well where this magnet can be placed. 3. The bottle is pretty small, so after three brake pedal depressions, the bottle is pretty much full.

(assuming that your brake fluid is topped off or closed to topped off).

The unit is great for saving time in draining your old fluid but it never stopped indicating air bubbles in the line even though the new fluid was coming out. The air sucked in around the connection point of the black attachment and bleeder valve.

I had to shutoff the air compressor and pump the brake lever to clear any air bubbles. Wasted quite a bit of fluid due to the air bubbles being caused by a poor fitting not any air in the brake lines.

If there had been a heads up in regard to this I would rate it much higher.

I bought this a month or so ago to properly bleed the front brake of my bike. It set up easily (you need to buy the proper air chuck piece to thread in for hooking up to your air compressor), and worked a real treat for completely draining my brake line, allowing me to take the caliper apart and rebuild it.

Once I had it back together, I used it at a low 25 PSI setting to gently replenish and bleed my brakes, and it couldn’t have been more straightforward to use. I’ve read that you’re supposed to keep the catch bottle and handle higher than the bleed hose when in use, so I made sure to do so, and it worked great.

Because of the internal diaphragms and components, I gave it a really good wash after using it by dunking the bleed hose into a bucket of water and running at least a half litre through it to neutralize any brake fluid that might’ve been left inside.

For what you pay, I thought it was a tremendous value and kept the brake job an easy chore with no fuss.

Excellent!! I had used another brand that you needed to pump by hand; this one is way better. Just have to ensure master cylinder is not run empty. For bleeding clutch and brake systems, excellent.

I had a 2019 silverado with a failed power booster/master cyl. SI stated pressure bleed was required. I absolutely hated having to drop close to 3 bucks on this thing, but after using it I was thanking god I had it.

Only used once so we will see how it holds up in time. It has a bunch of attachments, a pressure gauge on the pump lid, and a pressure release valve. Some newer models you absolutely have to pressure bleed or you will be sitting around for 10 years wondering why it still has the same code.

On top of being used to bleed the brakes quicker than you would be able to with a helper, along with not needing a helper, I also used it to pressure check a leak I had created by not threading in a brake line tight enough.

After fixing the leak, doing the manual and ABS bleed. Code was a cleared and pedal was nice and responsive as hell. Pressure bleeding is by the far the best way to bleed brakes. Very happy with purchase.

One last thing, people complained about it leaking from the lid. This did not occur on my vehicle but may happen further down the line. Will keep posted.

Pros: Inexpensive yet good quality tool. You can use this to bleed breaks with just one person. Cons: The high vacuum generated by the air feed causes the rubber nipple attachment to leak air. It does not allow air back into the line, but it is difficult to know when there is no longer air in the line.

Still works but. Misc: The bottle is a little tippy as some reveiwers note but it can be hung by the supplied clip to avoid this issue.

Works just like the expensive bleeders! I was given a really expensive snap on pneumatic bleeder and craked the canisters (sad day). So I decided to try this one for less then $40. Just finished replacing the brake fluid on my 3500 Ram and bled my boat trailer brakes, worked just the same.

It is a little light weight so it does tip over easy so be careful dirty brake fluid is mess. I was a little worried that my Rigid pancake compressor wasn’t going to handle the draw but it handled the task.

For the price, worked very well. Better to use vac line over caliper vac nipple than the attachment it comes with. Was necessary to bend a piece of brazing rod to hold trigger in pulled position. Easy fix.

Have used vac bleeders much more expensive with same results.

The unit that I received had too much blue grease in the piston which clogged the 4 holes in it. I have found out after a search online that it is a fairly common problem with this product and it causes a few units to be returned because the users never find out.

The grease restricts airflow and therefore the first time when I tested to see if it holds pressure and such. it took me several hundred pumps to reach 16-17 PSI. It definitively beats going to the gym and someone may like it that way.

but since I wanted to use the dry method to bleed my brakes, it would have been not ideal to have to pump 3-400 times, as I would need to disconnect and repump the air a few times. I was ready to return it when I found out where the problem was.

After removing the piston by gently twisting and pulling as per instruction from the manufacturer’s website, I cleaned the inside of the piston where the 4 holes are, leaving some blue grease on the sides.

I used a chopstick with some paper towels since I did not have a screwdriver that slim and long. So we could call it the Chinese method. After that, it works fine and it reaches 16-17 psi with less than 80 shots.

Another little pain is that the spot where the tube is fitted in the bottle, the tube gets in the way of the pump handle. Basically you will knock the tube with your hand when you pump it unless you do hold it away using your wrist or arm.

Yeah. I have seen other brands that avoid this issue by having the tube connected more on the side of the bottle and it does not get it on your way. Also for the money (although FCP gives us the lower price in the World for this bleeder) the manufacturer could have added 50 pennies worth for a valve to release pressure instead of unscrewing the whole cap.

Other than that it fits perfectly on the BMW cap and it holds pressure forever. On a closing note: For the life of me, there is no way that I will fill this bottle with brake fluid and then clean it with the mineral alcohol and go through the whole ordeal.

Not mentioning where I would discard the whole fluid. No way. I will use the dry method and I will eventually add a closing valve on the tube, so I can partially release it, without losing all the air.

Cheers.

I bought this a month ago and have already performed a complete flush on 4 of my cars, Silverado, Ranger, Focus and Accord. Pump works fine, only suggestion is that there should be a bleed valve like on my garden sprayer to release the pressure.

The caps however are another story. Silverado – Master cylinder gasket was like the 2 bears, One was too thick and couldn’t get it to compress enough to get the cap to engage, whereas the other was to thin to seal.

I ended up putting a 2″ O. D. O-ring then the loose fitting gasket to get it to properly seal. Ranger – Cap fit but it required me to pry the cap off to remove it. Sort of a pain but I ended up using a little bit of Keg grease on the inner O-ring to get it on and off easier Focus – Cap fit no problem Accord – Had to use the “Universal” cap, T E R R I B L E.

Ended up putting the chain thru a piece of 1/2″ heater hose and using a lot of words to coerce the cap to seal properly. No room to get this cap on my Odyssey so I will be making my own.

Bought this to bleed brand new 4 wheel disc brake system for my 67 Dodge. This unit is difficult to use for a few reasons. First, joining the two hoses from the pump bottle to the adapter is a pain. Trying to tighten the fittings with the adapter flopping around takes some effort.

It would be better do have a quick disconnect set up on these lines even if the cost was a bit higher. Second, while using the large aluminum adapter, it is supposed to be secured with a piece of jack chain, 4 j bolts and a wing nut and washer to secure the plate.

Getting a good seal on the plate to the master cylinder was impossible by hand tightening the j bolts with the wing nuts. Had to use regular hex nuts with a wrench to get the plate tight enough to make a seal.

Also, threading the j bolts through the jack chain was difficult while at the same time trying to fit the j bolts into the slots on the adapter plate. Tightening the bolts also caused them to twist at an angle and not apply equal pressure to the adapter plate.

I am currently figuring a more secure and friendly set up so I will not have to fight with it to work properly. Also, I attempted to use another different adapter for a GM master cylinder. This did not fit at all and I was not able to use my bleeder on A 2001 GMC truck.

All in all, I was very disappointed with my purchase and would not reccomend this product to anyone.

Was impossible to seal against the master cylinder in my application. (85 Monte Carlo SS) Since I do some woodworking, too, I own a lot of big clamps. Even using those, I couldn’t get the lid to seal.

I guess I could spray Roundup with it. Not a total loss.

Worked great, this is so far the best product out there for one person bleeding. I used the universal round adapter and the chains included were not long enough so I had to get some myself, not a big deal, but it is worth noting.

Other than that it was very easy to use and went smoothly. After using the universal cap, I can see how the actual fitted caps would be a lot eaier to use, however at $30 for each cap it’s a little expensive if you have multiple vehicles that are of different makes.

The kit worked as said/ expected only after I had to buy 2 kits. The plastic fittings of not carefully and properly placed will thread and not seal properly allowing air to enter the tubing this resulting in not being able to bleed the master cylinder properly.

Better quality fittings are highly recommended.

The plastic adapters don’t seal very well, but Teflon tape helps. Hoses seal well to the adapters. Clear tubing is what makes it better than others.

Did a decent job but wouldnt get up over 7 lbs. Pressure. This caused issues with having to consistently squeezing the handle. The included fittings didnt work as they should have

After 35 years and weeks of my time struggling to bleed brakes and hydraulic alone using those garbage hand held vacuum things, now I can bleed 6 entire vehicles per hour. Why I ever waited to purchase one of these was mostly because I was unaware they existed.

I like the design and it is super easy to use. In the past brake fluid would leak everywhere and make a mess. With this thing, there’s not one drop of fluid lost. The design is also robust, quite heavy duty.

I didn’t realize how big this tool was. It would fit inside a 5 gallon bucket, I think. My only disappointment is the tool isn’t smaller. I think there are smaller ones around. Aside from that, it works well.

I have no complaints. I just wish I had realized how big it was.

OTC Tools has always been one of my favorite special tool companies–excellent quality but you will pay the price for them. The first job for this tool was to evacuate radiator fluid. Done in 5 minutes, no mess.

Uses compressor air to create the vacuum and all attachments are quick-disconnect type. I look forward to using it to bleed brakes.

I am a retired auto mechanic with 60 years experience working on vehicles. This brake bleeder is very useful for operations such as a brake fluid flush, or for use as a vacuum for sucking up fluids on a variety of repair and maintenance procedures.

But as with other vacuum bleeders I have used it is not the best way to actually bleed brakes so that all air bubbles can be removed from the system. Most brake bleeder screws allow some air to enter the bleeder line when suction is applied to the system.

Packing the bleeder screw with grease can seal the system in some instances, but not 100% of the time. So while pulling a vacuum on a bleeder screw it can appear that there is air in the system, when actually the air is entering around the threads of the bleeder screw.

When using a suction tool such as this bleeder for a fluid flush, I first pull fresh fluid into the system. When most of the old fluid has been replaced I then use the tried & true method of having a helper press on the brake pedal while I open and close the bleeder screws in the proper sequence.

I also place a block of wood under the brake pedal so that it cannot go completely to the floor to help avoid damage to the master cylinder. This bleeder tool is very useful, but does have limits for actual brake bleeding.

It seems to be sturdy and should last awhile. I will use it for a variety of repair and maintenance procedures.

Set your expectations correctly: Brake fluid is much a-kin to hydraulic fluid, It doesn’t compress so it’s a bit stubborn. So…. Trying to suck the air out of the brake line instead of pushing it out with the hydraulic assist of the master cylinder is problematic.

The brake caliper has a bleeder valve not a suction valve so it’s near impossible to get the proper airtight connection to “effectively” drag air bubbles out of a noncompressible fluid. That said, it works like gangbusters getting the brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir.

as well as speeding up the gravity drain of getting fresh fluid into the brake lines (you don’t need an airtight connection for these purposes). The unit is also extremely well-built so I don’t plan on returning it.

Instead I’m going to keep it to suction out gas, oil, transmission fluid, hydraulic fluid out of my other systems (tractor, lawnmower etc. ). So like I said, set your expectations correctly.

Instructions are too detailed, and have information that is not necessary. Complexity increases with the number of pages of instruction. Actually, the unit is easier to use than as described, but you should watch a YouTube video first, and not depend on the written instructions.

The plastic tanks are prone to tipping over unless they are full, especially if you are working on dirt rather than a garage floor. I found that even with my compressor turned up to 110lb, it was still struggling to maintain a high level of suction on the vacuum pump, so pulling all of the old fluid out of the lines took longer than anticipated.

Still, a good investment, and one that will pay for itself with one fluid change. And, once you get the hang of it, you can help your neighbors do theirs.

For Dodge owners who have these certain late-90’s Rams, this is a effective way to pull the PCM Error Codes. Cannot speak for other situations, but for my specific 1998 2500 Ram with a 360 Gas Burner (NOT Diesel) the Performance Scan Tool worked immediately and gave me the codes to diagnose that -darn- check engine light.

Yes, this is that specific run of PCM’s that will NOT let the owner pull their own codes with the magic “turn the key three times” method. A WHOLE Lot less expensive than a trip to the five-star Mopar shop, for sure.

Now, this is a “basic” tool and it will NOT fetch your slippers and serve you breakfast in bed, but in my case it did exactly what was needed, identified a couple intermittent cylinder mis-fires by their unique codes, and also ruled out fuel injector failure, so the scan tool more than paid for itself first time around.

The included instruction book has a generous list of fault codes, and saved me that trip to the internat wasteland. The “Reset” to turn off the check engine light when all was done, also worked perfectly.

“Shiny. “.

TL;DR … Good tool, good price, be ready to buy 1-2 more sets of bearings, take your time, but you’ll probably break an expander. Read the reviews and decide for yourself – like I did. This was my first full engine build for myself, and I bought this for that one purpose: build a 454 (1977 Mark IV for an 89 Suburban).

By the time you get to OHV cam bearing replacement, you’re not in Kansas anymore – bearings aren’t bolt-on parts, they’re precision machine parts that require patience and precision. If you’re hasty and just want to slap a motor together, you’ll either pay for more sets of bearings because you didn’t take your time, or you should pay the machine shop do ALL your bearings and fitment (cam, rods, pistons, and rings) – do your cost-benefit analysis.

Tools like this are typically expensive and specific, but this one is economical because of the quality of materials (think Snap-On vs Harbor Freight prices and quality – PT is in the middle). As for the LS Motor problems in the reviews, Summit Racing SUM-900131 says ‘LS’ in the description so I can only assume the PT W89220 is NOT an LS Motor tool.

Consider the 900131 for an LS. Yep, I rolled a bearing and had to buy another set – operator error because I got hasty – ordered 2 more bearing sets, took my time, installed all 5, checked cam, returned unused set.

Yep, I broke an expander segment – operator error on the last bearing – lucky for me. +++++ The tool worked for removal and installation. +++++ The price was good ++++ Performance Tool expander segment replacement unavailable last time I checked, but Lisle makes ‘em.

++++ Knurled knob / striking end can’t be swapped to shorter shaft. ++++ Can’t give 5 stars because it’s not a perfect tool, but it’s good for what I needed.

I purchased this item, thinking. hoping, that if I watched enough you tube videos and enough comments and reviews here, that I could use my engineering education to make it work. It is assembled well, the poles are straight and without warp.

The dies of each size are cast well and fit into their respective rubber bands. BUT. Turns out, it ruined two sets of Sealed Power 1404M cam bearings for my Mark IV BBC. After damaging the first bearing, I used the second package of cam bearings to start over.

No matter what, the die segments spread out and make an imprint that damages the face of the bearing whether I installed it tight, or loose onto the die. I went for broke, kept trying to at least install a few for the experience.

We were able to get in 3 out of the 10 bearings that were a usable success. I don’t know if I can return the tool. But now I know to tell others to maybe choose another.

The original plastic mityvac is a great quality tool which served me well for 20 years until I ran it over (still worked just destroyed guage). I had bought a cheap version which only lasted 2 uses until it wouldnt hold a vacuum.

As far as this model goes for an extra $20 over the original you get a case, a much larger assortment of vacuum fittings and plugs. Plus this metal body version also serves as a pressure pump as well as vacuum.

Pulls a vacuum down to 29hg and guage reads up to 30psi, it will pump to a higher psi then guage reads. The negative reviews had me a little worried, but after receiving this I dont see the problem. I can’t get the pin in the handle to fall out and if it did I could easily replace it with a new one.

(could use standard drift pin or cut a drill bit to fit). As far a case goes everything fits easily inside securely. The build quality is top notch. Nice guage which swivels and has a rubber guard. That fact that it also switches to a air pump was suprise to me.

I own a lot of cheap tools that are just as good as high priced name brands. But when it comes to this one you can’t beat mityvac, and with this model, mityvac topped themselves. Only issue may be is that it is noticeable heavier and could do some paint damage to a car if you get careless.

Right off the bat. The minute I hooked it up to the compressor, the valve you use to cut off the air, or turn it on, leaked in the off position. It was leaking from that valve, when you put your finger by it you could feel pressurized air coming out, and on top of it air was also escaping through the exhaust it was obvious this is a poorly executed design.

So first I tightened up the screws on each side, and of course that did nothing. So I took the on/off valve apart and saw there was a rubber o-ring on one end of the valve so I lubed it with some 10w-30, put it back together and still leaked air in the off position.

The unit worked fine as far as bleeding brakes, I have a craftsman 33 gal 150psi max air compressor and have 150psi going to the bleeder. The air leak was unacceptable but I didn’t want to return the unit so I improvised as I usually do with other things.

All I bought was a 1/4″ lever ball valve and a 1/4″ double male end threaded brass fitting. Where the original on/off valve was, I had a 1/4″ stainless bolt about 2 1/2″ long with 2 washers and a nut.

I drilled 2 holes in the middle of the bolt, about where the holes are originally lined up in the bleeder, and used the gasket maker on both sides of the washers. After I put it all together, tightened the nut, I cut the access of the bolt off flush with the nut then topped it all off with more gasket maker to seal everything up.

Works like it should now. Giving it 3 stars for this reason. I really don’t know how everybody who bought this doesn’t have this problem. So please beware you will more than likely have the same issue as me.

Very easy to operate, and has a great array of accessories (most of which I probably won’t use, but you never know). Handy case to keep everything in one bundle. I’ve spent several days tracking down vacuum leaks in an old Mercedes, which has many systems based on vacuum control, and would have had no hope without this gadget.

I bought it based on it’s great reputation, and haven’t been disappointed.

it has a very heavy duty feeling, everything is metal w/ a nice HD rivited hinge. Theres a giant block of brass between psi gauge and the unit. the infeed fitting is gtg and easily replaceable. The book is 47 pg of stunning diagrams and illistrations dating back to.

maybe the ?0’s a good read if your into phnumatics, mechatronics, di y. ect. *get the accessories made in tiwain Lisle 72070* -great for bleeding brakes –checking heater control valve —transmissions / clutches —-vaporLock.

it is re-buildable, makeing this gtg for the long haul Side note: appears to be right handed due to the psi gauge dial facing a certain wayG0Dblleessss.

It seemed to work fine for checking vacuum pressure. It worked to check an EGR. valve. Then on another EGR. valve it became harder to pump and when pumped harder it gave way something inside popped and I heard pieces fall inside the handle and it started to rattle and it was broke.

This was a loaner from autozone.

bought the green one to just have. was doing a big brake job. right out of the box it didn’t work. it was my first time EVER using a vacuum brake bleeder. thought i was doing something wrong. brought it back to the store to see if someone could shoe me how to use it and it just flat out didn’t work! grabbed the other green one on the shelf and opened it up right there and tried it.

lo and behold, it didn’t work either! that’s when the sales guy said they have the silver one to rent (for free). he went to the back and got it, and BOOM, worked right out of the box. stay away from the green one.

the silver one (in the picture) worked fine.

I was able to bleed all corners by myself without too much messing around. First, grease-seal the bleeder threads, cannot blame that leak on the tool. Second, I was still not very successful with this unit having the vacuum to pull much fluid except at the driver side front.

The other corners I ultimately looped the hose up as far as I could then pumped the brakes like normal using the fluid in the hose as an airlock. Before tightening the bleeder screw, I pulled a vacuum with the tool then closed the bleeder.

Third, clean the grease from the threads and go for a test drive. I give it four stars because it does work as a one man operation. I don’t give it five stars because I still had to mess around. The master-cylinder bottle is simply an awesome convenience versus remembers to add fluid every so often manually.

Worth the cost, and as with many HF tools, the messing-around-factor is offset by the cost and the fact it’s not a commercial tool.

This tool works great for bleeding brakes, but also for evacuating reservoirs such as the brake reservoir and power steering. Just pop off the brake bleeder rubber adapter and you got yourself a very effective vacuum pump.

It doesn’t vacuum/pull the fluid from brake calipers as fast as my motive power bleeder, but it does work! This tool is great for vehicles that don’t have robust screw-on brake reservoir caps (Like some Toyotas and Hondas).

The only major downside is the durability. DO NOT hold the handle/trigger when screwing & unscrewing the catch bottle. I did this without thinking and the metal pneumatic adapter between the lid and handle cracked and broke.

The plastic body of the handle/trigger assembly does not provide adequate bracing. You need to hold the cap/lid portion and unscrew the catch bottle. Otherwise, this is a great tool for the price!.

I got a 85 Ranger for $500 bucks from a guy on a farm. The truck only has 90k on the clock. The front caliper was dragging and got hot so I got everything to do a proper brake job. I got new rotors, calipers, pads, bearings and seals.

So $210 out the door I went home and showed my old mechanic roommate hot to do front brakes at less than 20 min a side. So 40 min later I was bleeding the brakes with new empty calipers 2 min each side and put the tires on with my impact gun and 45 min I was done and starting my truck.

He looked at me and said your a mechanic. I said shut up and don’t you tell anyone I don’t want to work on everyone’s vehicles. This thing is so easy to use bleeding brakes. You put the rubber end over the zerk fitting, open the fitting and hit the trigger a minute later close the fitting when the gurgling and bubbles stop close the fitting and your done.

Do this for the other three and your done. get in and make sure you got pressure. On my truck I have never had to re-bleed them after that job and it has been over three years. If you give this less than 5 stars you probably should let someone else who knows what they are doing work on your car.

Really useful diagnostic aid. Would be even better if the tubes supplied weren’t all the same so, as they are all too big for my vacuum pipes !

The unit is of poor quality , similar to those made in China. Dont waste your money

unlike the all plastic version this one works without leaking or falling apart

The 3 different boots for different nipple sizes is the most important part about the kit. I fought with other kits that only came in one size and couldn’t get them to seal. Cup size is good to keep you from draining the master cylinder bowl.

Even has a second port to hook a vac gun to if you have one.

The kit is very simple to use. The directions are a little sparse, but in the end, you just connect the hose to the bleed valve and let the fluid flow into the little reservoir. Pump the pedal a few times slowly all the way to the floor and then go tighten the bleed valve and remove the hose.

All done.

I used it to bleed the brakes on my Chevy c10 after replacing all my brake compartment I did not need a second person and I also did not spill any brake fluid in the process. And it also came with different rubber connectors to fit different size bleed nipple.