20 Best Water Pump Sealant (2022 Updated)

This product works excellent on convertible tops! I always desire convertibles, but after owning one for a couple of months, I sell them, get annoyed, buy another and repeat this process too many times according to my wife.

I always seem to find great deals on convertibles, until I keep discovering that they all have the same issue. leaking from rear window. This stuff works perfectly!!! A few tips I’ve learned over the years, tape off the window and top to prevent (as much as possible that is) messy overlapping on top and windows.

Also, I use a blow up mattress to press on the inside window to create a tight seal. Nevertheless, great stuff, never had leaks, but then again, I don’t keep them for more than a half year, so who knows long term.

Permatex has and will always be my “go to” for sealing up an engine. Whether I’m working on a motorcycle or automobile they always have what I need and a great product. Just did a timing belt on the old 1999 Honda Civic with 235k miles and oil pan gasket while I was down there, permatex is what I used where needed on the engine and it got us safely to and back from Justin TX and we live in Ada,OK.

Thats a five hour round trip with a fuel/leg stretch stop. Thanks permatex for the peace of mind and autozone for the parts and products keeping this old car kicking. By the way we got 35/36 miles per gallon average, I topped the car off and reset the trip meter and divided it by the gallons it took to refill the car.

More accurate in my opinion than the modern day on board computers that try to calculate to many variables.

There are times when “black” colored silicone adhesive or sealant is nice to have. There are not many brands of black colored silicone in a tube out there, and Permatex is probably the best of those.

With regard to the adhesion and “texture” of the product once set, I can only compare it to the GE Silicone which works so well. I think the GE Silicone II is top notch: Dries firm yet pliable and has excellent adhesion.

This Permatex product, not as much. I have found that while it is a good sealer where a black silicone is needed, it is not a “great” sealer as it can be a little runny, a thinner viscosity than the clear GE Silicone, and takes seemingly long to dry.

I also had a project “pull apart” using the Permatex only to re-do it with GE Silicone II to achieve satisfactory results. The “rare” black color earns it credit. But the dry time, inconsistent setting up and lack of finished pliability knocks it down.

Overall, 4 stars although I wish it were worthy of a 5th star.

The JB Weld Classic epoxy (that takes 24 hours to cure) is still the best epoxy on the market (no commercial product bests it). That sets the bar rather high for their other products. Normally I use a competitor’s gasket maker — BUT this application would be exposed to gas fumes, and maybe splashes (so not in constant contact, but exposed to gasoline) — and ALL THE OTHERS said they would not work in such an environment (and from experience they are correct).

This product claimed it could work in such an environment. I set up a service test bed. I have now been in testing for ~60 days or so — where the other products failed, this continues to show no signs of breakdown.

Net: I have in parallel put it into service, and all seems fine where others failed. Only caveat: Can’t apply too thick, otherwise it will “seal itself in” and prevent a full cure. Otherwise great product.

Works in harsh environments where others failed me. It lives up to the JB Weld reputation!.

All these companies have done something and the lids are now made of cheap junk. Just slightly over tighten the thing and it splits leaving the product exposed to the atmosphere and worthless in 24 hours.

This is the 2nd product in 6 months that have had defective lids on them. Wasting a lot of money on this. Product inside the tube works well.

Worked very quickly and well on a crack in a stainless steel water tank. I emptied and dried the tank first and wire brushed the crack.

I went into this thinking it wouldn’t work at all and possibly cause other problems. Minor head gasket leak that was getting into the combustion chamber and blowing out the exhaust, but not getting into the oil.

I would watch a small bubble rise into the overflow tank once every couple seconds, and over the course of 100 miles or so would be putting in a half gallon of coolant. Since it was fighting against the compression I doubted it would be able to work its way into the hole and plug it up.

I followed the “less is more” method that others on here had good results with. I drove the car to work to get the coolant up to temperature so the thermostat would be open and ready to cycle coolant.

Got to work early and poured roughly 4 or 5 ounces of what looks like robot vomit into the overflow tank, turned the heater on full blast, and let it idle for about 30 minutes with the cap off the overflow tank.

I watched the typical bubbles come up into the tank every time the cooling fan would kick on, but noticed they stopped appearing on the last couple cycles. 9 hours later drove the car home as usual and checked again when I got home, no bubbles and coolant had remained at the level I left it at.

I’ve been driving it for a couple weeks now and have even gotten on it fairly hard and haven’t lost a drop of coolant yet. I’m actually in shock. We’ll see how long it holds up, and if it blows I still have 11 or 12 more ounces to try hitting it with again.

If I get a few months out of it I’ll be happy. Please note that if you have a head gasket leak on a car you really want to keep, do not use this. Bite the bullet and get it repaired properly. On the other hand, if you have a 32 year old car that you didn’t spend much on and are just using as a beater, it’s definitely worth a shot.

I took my 2010 Land Rover to a mechanic because it was leaking coolant. The exhaust was sweet-smelling and there was no coolant dripping from anywhere in the engine bay. I suspected a leaky or blown head gasket.

I let the car sit for 3 or 4 days and upon start up there was a big puff of white smoke and I got the check engine light. Cylinders 4 and 6 had misfired upon start up. I took it to a mechanic to get it checked out and he confirmed a head gasket leak with an estimated cost of repair approaching $10k.

I decided to look for a cheaper alternative to at least postpone having to spend so much money on a repair on a car I had just purchased (used with 110,000 miles) and I found K-Seal. I read another reviewer who suggested not putting in the recommended amount, but just a few ounces, which is what I did.

I put in between 2 and 3 ounces into the coolant reservoir and followed the instructions. The car has a 5 liter V8, which is small compared to the engines K-Seal is designed for, so that made sense to me.

I took the car to another mechanic to get a second opinion about the head gasket after putting in K-Seal. I told him I had put a gasket sealer into the car and he poked fun at me for doing so, saying that those things never work.

However, after checking the vehicle, he could not find a leak anywhere. He told me the head gasket hadn’t blown at all. The vehicle drove fine! The exhaust didn’t puff white smoke anymore nor did it smell sweet.

It has only been a couple of weeks, but it appears the leak has been sealed. I am very impressed.

I’ve been dealing w/ a minor head gasket leak for a couple years now on my ’03 Explorer 4. 6L. Prev owner used a different product in the cooling system for an intake leak which ended up clogging the return hose for the overflow tank and the engine overheated.

Since the engine has 200kmi and was only loosing about 1qt per month it’s just not really worth my time for a proper repair and having the heads resurfaced. I’ve tried a few other products which managed to clog up the cats more than the head leak.

At any rate, about 2 months in with this sealer and coolant level and staying rock solid. The trick to any of these sealers though is use the least amount possible. I got the 16oz bottle but for my 5 gal system I only used 4oz.

More is NOT better. If the weather is warm enough, especially if dealing w/ a larger leak where you need a more concentrated ratio, it’s best to do a heater core bypass while this is working initially.

This does have some particles in it along w/ the sodium silicate, equivalent to finely ground pepper. Shouldn’t clog up other components but why risk it. Once it’s fully distributed through the system it shouldn’t be an issue.

Short term, this is already the best product I’ve tried. We’ll have to see how it holds up 6 months-1 year down the line.

I recently bought new flexible Spouts and breather ports for my gas cans. The manufacturer recommended using Three Bond to seal the ports to the cans. It was easy to work with and after letting it cure for a few days, I filled my cans.

It has been about a month and so far, the Three Bond sealant looks to be unphased by the gasoline.

Three Bond Gasket sealer listed in Chiltons manual was no longer available for DT175. Had to Clean Surfaces very well per directions. Sealed well. Had to break case once. Came apart fine. Cleaned back up.

and sealed nicely again.

really happy with this sealant. i have used this product on multiple projects this year alone and have nothing but a perfect experience with it.

Having bought a farm to retired to, I have to do my own repairs. My mower had a valve cover gasket leak. So I purchased this as I’ve used it when I used to rebuild engines, and a new gasket. The smell brought back memories.

Remove the cover and clean thoroughly including the vent, clean the head surface as well. Apply a light coating to your valve cover, place the gasket onto the cover. Then apply a thin coat to the head gasket surface and reinstall the cover.

Great stuff.

The product description leads you to believe that Permatex #2 is resistant to gasoline with ethanol in it but in my own experience, it is not. I used this as a gasket dressing on my tractor’s carburetor float bowl.

It sealed for a few hours but then started leaking. It is pretty clear to me that the gasoline or ethanol was attacking the Permatex #2.

Seem’s 2 work, le fact that it’s fast drying, is probillee because le U. N. finnished obelisk in Aswan is still there. Mabee it is le second turbine used in Tigrah(Eithiopian Dam) renasonce dispute. Water start’s clear—>dam fill’s—->etc.

>.

Let me tell you what, finding gaskets for used market Victor class submarines is darned difficult if you’ll pardon my language. Leaks galore when you go under 50 metres and level the bow planes if get my drift.

Don’t even get me started on the primary coolant loop on that finicky VM-4P reactor either, ever had a control rod failure because of a leaky fitting during an under water cocktail party? Awkward! Suffice to say, JB Weld has come to the rescue again and again! No other brand has the ability to hold back fluids in your used Russian sub or in the homemade hot tub you made out of a horse trough.

5 stars! Highly recommended.

Used it for a valve cover gasket replacement job (this is only for certain sections in accordance with the Ford xr4 service manual). It did the job where the permatex failed – was literally dried when the seal was first opened.

So of course recommend this over that.

Very thick and not easy to expel from tube, having said that it did do the job as a gasket seal on the tranny pan on my 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer ES. One of these tubes would do three seals easily on a transmission pan.

Seems very robust once cured.

Got a Jeep that had only had one previous owner who took great car of the vehicle. Prior to sale he informed me the water pump needed changed so I purchased this one which came with the gasket. Turned out the gasket was all I actually needed but as the one on the jeep was plastic and this one made of more durable metal, and as it needed removed to install the new gasket I just went ahead and installed the new pump as it seemed a more valuable pump.

I’m a professional mechanic and use this stuff all the time at my shop. I wish they sold it in the bigger tubes like they used too though as I have to buy multiple of these and it gets expensive very quickly.

This is the only one sold in this small size. But the product itself is great I use it with and without gaskets. They have lots of RTV for multiple applications.

after taking my car to a mechanic for a anti freeze and having him tell me to change the thermostat housing only to have it leak even more I figured let me try this product. I took off the thermostat housing and used this gasket maker and replaced it back and waited the 24 hours refilled the anti freeze and started the engine to build up pressure, no leaks and i took the car for a drive and the gasket sealed the imperfection i guess on the engine to where the leak is gone.

great product.

Used this on my Water Pump and thermostat Inlet tube and It did exactly what its intended for. The only complaint I have is, the tube is so small and filled with Air pockets which prevented me from having a continuous bead.

I fixed this issue with spreading it with my finger. I ended up using 2 of these tubes since I did both my thermostat and water pump. Both tubes had air pockets !! Very disappointed in that and felt some how ripped off.

At first it seemed like i could maybe get both done with 1 tube but then during the beading, I got 3 puffs of air. But other then that, the product seals great.

The Fel-Pro water pump gasket is a must for a good water pump replacement. The Duralast pump I got at Autozone comes with a cheap gasket I didn’t want to use so I bought this Fel-Pro. Great fit and seal, I’m confident it will be a good long lasting repair.

Year: 1999 Make: Jeep Model: Cherokee (XJ) Changed part while installing head gasket. Fitment was perfect. No leaks at this time. Would recommend to anyone needing to replace gasket.

This gasket is very reliable. It isn’t expensive so you can go empty a couple dollars from your piggy bank or the change laying around on the carpets of your car. It will endure the harshest of miles.

Accidentally, tore the gasket that came with the new water pump. Ordered this on line & picked it up the next day early in the morning. This time after sticking the gasket to the water pump with blue silicone RTV and laying a film of sealant on the engine side of the gasket I secured it at two upper bolt holes with string.

After putting it in place with two bolts partially threaded in, I cut the threads & removed them before completing the job.

After major struggles with out of the country parts. Now with a quality part from America I feel a great relief and satisfaction. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction Summit!.

Felpro gaskets always make a huge difference. Never have to use rtv.

WRONG GASKET. This car requires a o-ring gasket. Autozone does not have it. I returned this gasket and the thermostat # 15048. I then ordered the MAHLE thermostat. IT COMES WITH THE CORRECT O-RING SEAL.

MAHLE # TX16082.

The product is made of good material. No dislikes. Installed it in my 1970 Ford F250 pickup

A quality gasket from Felpro. No issues ever.

If you’ve never used black silicone RTV this may be hard to use at first it’s very inexpensive but offers the best way to seal oil pan gaskets or water pump gasket. BUT if you do it wrong it can be a very frustrating experience.

This brand is decent and works with most gasket applications but doesn’t offer the best quality.

Good packaging, decent storage life and easy to apply spout. Forms a seal well, seems durable, easy to work with. Sticks well to most surfaces, chemically inactive to most surfaces, forms a smooth, tight gasket.

Easy to use. A small nozzle (tip) would be helpful for smaller jobs.

Called the FelPro support line. No gasket goop needed. Much easier that way. Less messy. Used this instead of the gasket that came with the water pump.

Needed a water pump the Attendant showed me what else I needed to make repair work better with this part.

After doing quite a lot of research I decided to give this a try. I have an old Speedaire air compressor that had a leak from the valve plate gasket for which a replacement is no longer available. The gasket is subject to high compression and excessive heat.

After attempting to make a replacement from gasket material (which nearly worked but still leaked minutely) I assembled the compressor using this product and it has performed flawlessly: no leaks. It is critical that the mating surfaces are extremely clean before applying.

It does set up to a thick gel consistency but it does not harden which many other products do. A bit more costly than many other sealants but worth it.

This gave me leak free results on a water pump install that had been giving me fits. I was installing a pump on a Ford 5. 0 so there is a gasket then a piece of sheet metal, then another gasket, then the timing cover.

Several layers, several opportunities to leak. I had tried NAPA 80062 High Tack because that is how my dad always did it. Less than acceptable results. Next I tried Permatex 22071. Less than acceptable results.

Then I tried this product with Klean ‘N Prime primer. I followed the instructions to the letter and NO LEAKS!! What a relief. Another nice thing about this product is any over apply or messes don’t harden and can even be cleaned up the next day.

Suggestion: Allow 24 hours for it to fully cure. Use Klean ‘N Prime especially of some of the surfaces are aluminum.

I have used Loctite 515 as a mechanic for over thirty years and swear by it. You can use it as a gasket dressing or to form a seal on its own. I have found it to be usefull to seal small pipe thread fittings on high pressure applications, like hydraulic or refrigeration systems.

Coat the threads with 515 and this stuff will seal, when ordinary pipe dope or teflon tape will allow the threads to weep. I had a persistant oil leak from a pushrod tube o-ring on my Harley, I coated the o-ring with 515, reassembled and it never weeped again.

That was twenty years ago and I still own the bike today. nuff said.

Big fan of the idea of it. No idea what to do with it when I finally got it. Wouldn’t be the first time. Hoping for less pain next time. May even size up. Dreaming of my next chance.

I bought this to install and the spikes scraped up the interior. Doctors bills were almost as expensive as this piece of junk. Wouldn’t recommend, you can fond a much higher quality one at spencers.

I can’t say this fit perfectly around my car’s gasket, but it did fit perfectly around something else and I’m getting much more use out of it that way

The ones in the box with the new pump looked just like the ones on the engine, but these are supposed to be better with black rubber. Hopefully they’ll outlast the vehicle!

Gaskets worked as expected. Recommend people get a gasket scraper to remove buildup on block surface and a sealer to seal the water pump bolts as the factory does not seal the bolt threads and the bolts start to corrode.

Worth the extra cost if you ever have to replace the water pump. No scrapping or cleaning with a razor.

Very easy to put on if you use gasket sealer or dressing. Remember to clean the surface first and hand tighten then torque to spec.

Not a lot to say, these are water pump gaskets for a Gen 1 Small Block Chevy engine. Better than the gaskets included with almost any replacement water pump, which generally appear to be made from old cereal boxes.

No leaks, never have to worry.

Fel-pro is a great gasket and easy on the wallet. Always fits and Always works up to your expectations.

These gaskets work perfect. Don’t forget to finger smear some ultra blue gasket sealer to hold them in place on the water pump and fill any casting deficiencies. You don’t need the sealer on engine block machined surfaces.

Use it sparingly to keep it from getting into your cooling system. Don’t know why they don’t sell these in packs of two because that’s what you’ll need.

It is not a set like it says. It is only 1 side of gasket. It dont make sense cause you need 2 always for BBC water pump. They would rather waste money on packaging. Taking it back an buying from someone else that sells a real set! Very disappointed.

cant say what I want to say they wont post my thoughts but only one gasket for a 454 water pump OK then I ordered zinc for oil and they send me oil supplement

It says that this gasket is for the water pump to the timing cover but it is not. It is for the water pump to the water pump cover. First time I’ve run into a problem with one of summits product explanations.

But still a good product.

Great fitment and fair pricing. I could not ask any more for what it is and what I paid. Very high quality product.

It’s Fel-Pro, quality stuff. Fits like it should. I used a little bit of blue gasket maker to make sure it seals.

Transparent RTV. Instead of a crazy glue that is rigid, RTV remains somewhat pliable in comparison, and this stuff holds on! Compared to many other adhesives, RTV not only is an adhesive, but it is a sealant you can use in a lot of applications to hold a seam from leaking water, etc.

Doesn’t have the adhesion strong enough to hold the part together for the long run

this is a great product it is very easy to use and is excellent to use on most every application