20 Best Water Washable Resin (2022 Updated)

The thick set was excellent for the half-inch pours. But it had a horrible response when I tried to do a thin coat over top of my last half inch pour. Although the website and advertisement notes that this material can be used as a thin layer.

, I would highly recommend not using it for this application. In speaking with the technical support team, they confirmed that it may not always have positive results as a thin layer, the recommendation is for the high-performance epoxy in this case.

The thin pour did not cure and I had to chisel it all out after several days at the advice of the technical team (in and around rocks ) over several hours until I got back to the cured half inch pour below.

Subsequently, I applied the high-performance epoxy and there is thankfully no signs of the chiseling marks left behind (note, I did add a pinch of blue coloring just to help cover any white marks that may appear through the epoxy from my chisel).

Bottom line, great product but be sure to stay in it’s lane- thick set pours only 😁👍.

Had a great experience with this product. Our project yellowed a tad bit, but, we started pouring during a heatwave and ambient temps were in the 90’s and possibly 100’s in the shop. We are aware that is not the recommended ambient temp but, we had already started.

We made a 4 1/4″ slab 16 x 26″. Based on the temp we pours either 1/4″ or 1/2″ pours. I think it was 12 pours in total. Pleased with it. Minor air bubbles formed but, we think it was from the bones. We found a mummified cat under my house running power and decided to cast it in epoxy.

I think air escaped from the rib bones as the layers cured over 7 days.

I’m working on a large-scale project that includes making 3,000 gummy bears ina. rainbow of colors that I’m sharing online as I go. I switched to Total Boat after seeing another maker use it. It doesn’t leave bubbles on top of my poured parts.

It dries harder and “crisper” than the resin I used prior. I use the pre-measured pump which makes it so easy to keep making new batches. For this application, I like that it’s a thinner pouring consistency than other resins I’ve used.

I wanted to use an indoor wood coffee table outside in covered patio area. Had no idea what I was doing but followed instructions and watched a few videos and the table turned out great. Going on a year outside with no problems at all.

It did take longer to cure than I thought it should but likely just my lack of experience with epoxy.

This product works very well and the price is much better than the more famous brands. I use the slow hardner which gives about 20 minutes of pot time. This usually is enough to complete the part that I want, but since I am building my boat alone here in Florida, it doesn’t give me a lot of slack time.

On one lamination the epoxy kicked before I got tkhe whole piece in place. while the loose ends looked very artistic, the loss of several pieces of spaele laminate was less fun. I now do my laminate lay-ups in two or three stages, which works fine, but takes an extra day to complete.

No problem for an amateur like me, but it could be a problem for a commercial shop with a time constraint.

This was a small order of resin only. When I opened the package there were 8 color packages. I went to the JD website but couldn’t find any information about how to mix them. JD should add a section about this.

During the pandemic I couldn’t find a single garbage can at a reasonable price, the only one left was the Simple human can at a hefty price tag of $80ish, I struggled to wrap my brain around spending so much money on as trash can but I did it and so happy ever since.

This can and liners makes trash so simple, clean and stress free. In fact I love it so much I bought one for my nephew as a wedding gift. The liners sure nearly in the can for easy access and take up less space, they are a perfect fit for the can which eliminates the slipping that’s other brands do in your standard cans, the liners are the right thickness eliminates leaking and they seem to actually hold more than national brands.

I order the box of 240 once a year, and never have to worry about running out in the middle of the night or day, while a little pricier than other brands I think overall they actually are less expensive taking into consideration all the beneficial features they provide.

On this most recent order I calculated the per piece price and with the 30% discount that was offered the liners were actually about $. 02 cheaper per liner than national or store brands. Highly recommend Simplehuman trash cans and liners, I actually refer to it as a complete hassle free garbage system for your home.

When I first started with acrylic painting I was doing canvas only painting. Then I added coasters and determined they needed resin. I bought some online only to read that using it required a respirator.

Being claustrophobic that was not an option for me. I found an artist on you tube that recommended Art Resin and I found it online at your website and bought it. After reading the instructions that came with it and using it the first time I am sold on it! It is easy to use, has a much longer working time than other resins and best of all no fumes or harsh chemical smells! I am so happy with how all my coasters have turned out using Art Resin! I highly recommend it now to all my friends and fellow painters! I have also used it on canvas paintings and they have turned out beautifully as well!.

I’ve used Art Resin several times and it has always been an excellent product. 5 stars ! This time though, I did something wrong. I poured it a little thick. 1 gallon for 36″ x 36″. The mixture was filled with extremely tiny bubbles.

I went ahead and poured it. After a few minutes I used a torch and popped some larger bubbles and ,though tiny, I also popped thousands of them I could barely see. I did this repeatedly off and on for about an hour.

The art work was looking great, so I left it to harden 72 hours, I removed the fence and cleaned it up. It wasn’t till I hung the art that I notices still thousands of minuscule bubbles at the bottom of the pour just above the paint.

Still the finished product looks great from just a few inches away. What I noticed though, was that each tiny bubble cast a tiny shadow on the art. Over all, because there were many thousands of bubbles, they do dim the paint a little.

I am sure that I was to blame. This is my first large pour. I mixed the resin in a large stainless bowl using a flexible kitchen spatula. I noticed the mixture was full of tiny tiny bubbles, but I poured it that way.

Room Temperature was 72 F. If you could help with advice about my procedure, I would be grateful. Still the art work looks great when viewed more than 1 foot away. I am very pleased. I consider this a miner problem.

Your future customer, Barb Imel.

I tried Ks resin/ artist resin all the high dollar ones. I actually won a bottle of the tumbler coating epoxy in a giveaway. Let me tell you it changed my life! My price point is competitive. The resin is crystal clear and so smooth! No smell ! Super glue smells worse then this.

If I keep it about 80 degrees in my craft room it cures in 2 hours. I can have a cup done in 2 days. It saves me money and speeds up my cup making process! I can use this as a finish coat because it’s rock hard, and scratch resistant! If you get a small one you’ll be buying the 2 gallon kit like me next time! Listen people don’t sweat bubbles they happen.

Mix slowly, warm temp, torch it on the tumbler. This epoxy doesn’t mind the torch either. It’s just an all around amazing epoxy I even use in shallow molds.

I have been doing Hybrid wood/resin turnings for about 3 years. Found Their Floral Epoxy to be the best for casting but have struggled to find a resin to use as a finish on my turnings. I have tried just about every brand and type of resin.

Some would work but were cost-prohibitive. Most just didn’t work. I tried this tumbler resin and it is the perfect answer. It clings to the sides and self-levels well. The price makes it affordable. No matter what your resin needs The epoxy resin store has it, they work for their intended applications and you will not find better prices.

I absolutely love this epoxy! It’s smooth and easy to mix. It may bubble a tiny bit, but they quickly go away. I always wear my respirator, but when I take it off when finished there is no harsh odor.

It has a very nice working time and dries pretty quickly. One thing worth mentioning is that I have found that if you use too much heat it will dimple. My last several cups I went over one circulation (of my turner) only, and my cups came out perfectly, smooth as glass, no bubbles, just perfect! I will continue to use it if it continues to be awesome!.

I finally managed to resin a custom Minecraft Lego table I painted for my kids. It ended up working well, but only after five or six FAILED layers! I feel that there need to be better instructions to save other people the hassle: – it is best to leave both bottles in a bucket of hot tap water for an hour so they are warmed up at the time of application.

It makes the resin more fluid, easier to apply, and reduces the amount of bubbles. – the resin and hardener need to be measured in volume and NOT in weight because they have different densities. Measuring in weight will result in a wrong ratio and tacky spots.

– if some of the product isn’t perfectly mixed, it will result in permanent tacky spots. The TotalBoat instructions say to mix slowly to avoid bubbles; however, if mixing not fast enough in the allotted time, the product may not be entirely mixed.

– it is best to mix the product in 2 or 3 smaller simultaneous batches at the time of application, rather than one larger batch. I mixed half a gallon worth of product in larger containers for the correct amount of time and it wasn’t mixed well enough, resulting in many tacky spots.

– It is important to watch the bubbles for at least 15-20 minutes and pop them with a heat gun on low setting. They keep appearing after 10 minutes. Don’t walk away too fast! Overall, this is a good product, but I had to order it three times because I kept having failed layers, so it ended up pretty expensive, frustrating and time consuming.

If I were to do another table, I would reorder it and do it well the first time, now that I know what to do and not to do.

I have never used epoxy before. I’ve made a lot of wooden projects and wanted to start doing some epoxy inlays. I searched for about a month on a company I wanted to try. So, I chose Toral Boat. I mean, why not? They have been around for awhile and stand by their product.

It was such an easy process when I did my first pour! I followed the directions thoroughly, which were easy to understand, and the project came out great! I will definitely purchase again. In fact, I already have another 2 gallons on the way! Only thing I wish they gave directions on was adding pigments to the epoxy.

Do I add it in while I do the mixing? Do I add it in after the 3-5 minutes of mixing and put it into a second cup? Is it different with powders or liquids? That’s my only critique, but it was an easy google search to figure it out.

I will definitely keep going with Total Boat epoxy!.

I’ve been working with resin for 2 years and this is the worst garbage I’ve ever used. I saw the Mod Podge name and had high hopes but it was beyond disappointing. The resin (part A) was so thick it was barely pourable.

There were SO. MANY. BUBBLES, and since it’s so viscous, they have trouble escaping, Yeah, yeah, yeah, pour slowly, stir slowly, use heat gun, whatever. I don’t like using heat guns on my silicone molds as it damages them.

and makes them wear out too quickly. in addition to the bubbles, it has the strongest odor of any resin I’ve used, and it hardened to a pale yellow, not clear. The pot time is also REALLY quick. It says 30 minutes but it was pretty much unusable after 20.

This is NOT a good product. There are definitely better products out there at comparable prices.

My 14 year old son and I build a wooden flat boat and used the Total Boat 5:1 Epoxy Kits to fiberglass the bottom and half way up the sides. The boat is 14 foot 9 inches long and 48 inches across the bottom with sides of 20 inches.

We fiberglasses approximately 85 square feet of the boat bottom and sides with 2 oz fiberglass fabic. We were able to saturate the fabric and apply 2 additional coats of epoxy using every drop from the gallon of resin and hardner.

Having never attempted any fiberglassing project prior the project came out reasonably well. The epoxy and hardner were easy to poor into measuring cups and mix together. We mixed each pot with 10 ozs of epoxy and 2 ozs of hardner and had no difficult getting it all applied between 12 and 18 minutes.

Because the project was rather large the area we applied first was almost too set before we were able to apply the 2nd coat but we attempted it anyway and now that it is all cured it appears to have worked out in the end.

We used the plastic spreaders for the initial application and then the foam roller for the 2nd and 3rd coats. In hindsight we could have doubled out epoxy pot size for the 2nd and 3rd coats using the foam roller and still been able to apply within the time limit.

During my planning I had difficulty tring to determine how much epoxy I would need to cover the area in question. I found various answers using either 4 oz or 6 oz cloth and nothing for 2oz cloth. My wood is not marine grade as this is an experimental build, the next one we build will be using quality marine grade plywood and hardwood instead of cheap homedepot ply wood and pine.

This was our first real fiberglass project. We needed to replace the rotted core of our fuel tank locker cover. The pumps made measuring easy (at the beginning– see below). We used the fast hardener and indoors in the winter around 70 degrees we had plenty of time to work with each layer before it ever started to harden up.

We were happily surprised that it did not smell bad at all. Very low odor. Really the only complaint we had is that in the quart sized kit, the hardener comes in the same bottle as it does in the larger kits.

It is just not full at all–just a little bit at the bottom of the bottle. Beyond causing a little initial panic (fearing it had all poured out in the mail until I did the math and saw it was the right amount) this was less than ideal because the pumps don’t work very well when you get down to the bottom.

They start pulling up some air, giving uneven amounts, etc. making mixing measurements dicey. That can be expected with a pump situation but you hit that point much earlier than you should with the hardener since it is in such an oversized container.

Product seemed to cure well and the end product was sturdy. We probably could have used a little more but managed this project with the quart size kit.

Great epoxy resin! Easy to mix, the resin is clear, the hardener is slight yellow, you know it’s throughly mixed when the yellow hardener swirls in the clear resin disappear (or your arm gets tired from mixing).

Add a little more hardener when it’s cold outside, or slightly less if it’s hot, either way this stuff works great! Just remember to wear a good respirator. Having looked at many other composite retailers, I am blown away by the quality and price of totalboat’s products.

My application is aftermarket Automotive body kits and small composite projects.

super bad product every which way. The resin is okay, but the manufacturing of this bottle sourced by micro center is a bad deed for the community. This is hands down one of the worst engineered products, quality control is crap, the bottle will destroy gloves, the cork is hard to get out and flips resin everywhere.

Pretty sure this was someone’s job in China to make this sankey as possible for its users. Shame on you China and Microcenter for carrying such a bad bad product. Plus my bottles are only 3/4 full brand new.

this handshake needs to stop.

Although this resin can be a bit flimsy this is a good starting resin for making smaller non professional prints. Usually not a good selection for a lot of complex structures, since the deformation and the shrinkage is very profound on smaller sizes.

However the detail from the final printed product is very high in quality; would recommend for beginners and would recommend for hobbyist prints.

I had terrific results with my prints on an Anycubic Mono X. Detail was impeccable, adhesion was perfect, no real warping or other issues. I was really happy to be able to clean my table and process the print just by washing with water.

It dissolved pretty easily and cured very nicely. I combined the black resin with their white resin because I prefer to print in grey. This came out a little too dard at a 1:1 mix so I would probably go 2 white : 1 black bottle to mix up some great grey resin.

People say the smell from water washable resin is generally better, but I’m not so sure about that. Incredibly minor complaint, though!.

I bought a 500g bottle of Inland Water Washable to use on my brand new Elegoo Mars 3. I like the idea of not using IPA as it’s expensive, flammable, and super awful for your lungs if you inhale it. The first two prints worked perfectly on the Mars 3.

Water rinsed and cured perfectly. The only issue is the stank. It made the whole room, then the half of the house stink. I had the room ventilated with two open windows and a closed door and eventually I could smell it across the freaking house! I love the stuff but do it outside in your garage if you have one.

It is great to get a feel for your resin machine. Like exposure settings, the speed, and test prints. Also good for testing your slicing settings too. Like orientation or support placement. Being water washable, you don’t need IPA to clean.

I have been 3d printing for about the last 8 years and Microcenters filaments and resin are just as good at the bigger names but at a cheaper price, the water washable resin prints well in both my Wanhao D7 and my Mono X resin printers, easy cleanup with water (still use caution when rinsing and disposing of left over resin in cleaning water and do not pour down a drain).

IšverstiShow in original languageThis resin works quite well with a few notable features; The resin does have a strong smell but not an offensive one. The resin cures very fast. Where most resin would still have some bend before a final cure this resin seems to skip straight to stiff which can make removing supports a bit more difficult.

As it turns out, white resin is really bad for being able to see small details and texture but is really good as displaying any bit of lint or dust that may get on it. I might recommend grabbing any other color if you need to do any large amount of post processing on your print.

On that note the resin sands into an extremely fine dust when cured so grab a mask before any major sanding.

IšverstiShow in original languageIt’s actually the same color as the “skin” Inland standard resin, just one shade whiter. It looks good if you want to print a female bust or something like that, but it is not “yellow”.

I wanted something quite yellow to print some sci-fi miniatures, this does not look good for that. The resin does work correctly, though. I wonder why they can’t get this right because, like the other reviewer noted, both Red and Blue Inland standard resins are exactly what you would expect.

Recommended if you actually want this color, otherwise no. Be careful.

IšverstiShow in original languageThis resin has the strongest, most intrusive odor of any brand or type that I have tried to date. If I use it in the basement, inside of a printer with a carbon filter system, the smell is still so bad that it bothers my wife upstairs.

Additionally, the print looks beautiful when it emerges from the printer. But as soon as it dries out, it gets cloudy, and I have not found any combination of rinsing or washing or drying or curing that keeps it looking clear and glassy.

It always ends up cloudy with a yellow brown tinge. I between the smell and the difficulty achieving really good results, I cannot recommend this for anyone and will not purchase it again for myself.

This resin printed great on my Elegoo Mars. I’ve used it to print mostly 28mm miniature figures from the Artisan Guild and the Rocket Pig Games Patreons. I only mention the sources of the miniatures to say this, one set is highly detailed, needing multiple supports while the other is support free and a little less detailed.

This is important because the resin proved to print both types equally great. It also doesn’t have a harsh smell (it still has a hint of a smell but it’s not too bad) Also the resin cured under the UV light in less time than the ABS styles of resin I’ve used in the past.

The only issue I ran into was that this resin is quite brittle once dried. You may say that all resins get brittle. well this one seemed to me to be a little more brittle than others I’ve tried (Anycubic and Elegoo).

It’s nothing that is a real issue, just an observation to be aware of. Another difference that this resin provided was in it’s bottle. the bottle looks to be aluminum and has a “no drip” style lip for pouring, whereas most other resins I’ve worked with are just in plastic bottles with normal lips.

(This is neither good nor bad, just different). I will 100% use this resin in the future again, also I purchased the grey color if that matters.

We purchased both the SainSmart transparent and grey resins. Grey:The grey resin was really awesome and produced amazing details down to tiny models that would fit on a dime. We liked the detail on this resin so much we ordered the 1000ml bottle when we ran out of the 500ml.

Transparent:This resin was pretty awesome. It cures quicker than the SainSmart grey resin and looks great. The details are harder to see on the clear resins, but that can be solved with a little paint.

I’m starting to use this resin for transparent stands for the minis we’ve been printing in the opaque resins. The fact that this is clear makes it easier to see early when there are problems printing (the cured resins on the plate are slightly less clear/have a different index of refraction than the liquid form so you can see them as they print).

You do have to be a little careful with curing times as the clear will start to turn yellow if you leave it in a uv + water bath for too long. This seems to be a common problem with clear resins. It cures really well with natural light but we don’t happen to have much of that this time of year.

I have been into FDM 3D printing for some time now and have heard a lot about this company’s products. I am now working with a LCD resin printer and wanted to try their resin. I will say I am not disappointed at all.

The material comes in a well sealed container and in fact it is an aluminum can where as the other companies use plastic bottles. The color is good and I had successful prints the very first time I used it.

I highly recommend the company and this product. Knowing how well this works in my Hieha SQ3 LCD 3D Resin printer I will now order more colors in the very near future.

Our school has tried many brands of resin. We created a project with EnviroTex a few weeks ago. The results were exactly according to the directions. We encourage reading all directions first. So often I take for granted that one resin is the same as the next and they are not created equal.

When EnviroTex discusses the use of “deep molds” pay particular attention to this area of the directions because most of the students did experience longer drying times for thicker project.

I covered a camper table in 2 coats of high end epoxy. There was a small blemish, and I thought it should be sealed so I bought this. It was HORRIBLE! The first two coats of the other product were great (other than where I got too close with the torch) but this was a nightmare.

I followed the instructions exactly and it attracted every piece of dust, dirt, hair and bug on the planet. It was supposed to start hardening at 25 minutes?! 4 hours later and everything is still sticking to it.

This product ruined my $100 table, my shoes and my new manicure. Definitely do NOT recommend!!.

I am a professional multimedia artist. specializing in resin casting and fluid art. I have been through roughly 6 gallons from 6 different brands of pour-on resin since mid-July both in silicone molds as well as on other substrates like canvas, tile and wood, or I make 1/8′ thick sheets of resin that I form into sculptures.

I thought I would give this a try because with a big coupon, it’s the least expensive option out there, but also the lowest quality in my experience. You cannot mix it in large batches unless you plan to immediately pour it only in clear, nor can you mix it with color or additives because the longer it sits in a cup the faster it cures, meaning that by the time you mixed your colors and got the resin down, your chance of getting air bubbles out is practically impossible.

This resin doesn’t seem to have any UV inhibitors and cures with a slight yellow tint which you can see when it cures thick (like it did to me the first time I mixed up a 100 mL batch). It is not meant for thick pours because of it’s short curing time, so you won’t notice any yellowing right away, but I have a feeling that over time, this resin will turn VERY yellow compared to brands with UV inhibitors, as none of the other brands were yellow in even thick pours.

I won’t use it again because of the yellowing, It is good to use for practicing though when you use a half off coupon.

I have never used epoxy before. I’ve made a lot of wooden projects and wanted to start doing some epoxy inlays. I searched for about a month on a company I wanted to try. So, I chose Toral Boat. I mean, why not? They have been around for awhile and stand by their product.

It was such an easy process when I did my first pour! I followed the directions thoroughly, which were easy to understand, and the project came out great! I will definitely purchase again. In fact, I already have another 2 gallons on the way! Only thing I wish they gave directions on was adding pigments to the epoxy.

Do I add it in while I do the mixing? Do I add it in after the 3-5 minutes of mixing and put it into a second cup? Is it different with powders or liquids? That’s my only critique, but it was an easy google search to figure it out.

I will definitely keep going with Total Boat epoxy!.

I used 6 gallons on a job 10×4 table and 2 benches and for whatever reason there were uncured patches all over the table. It was unsalvageable so I tried to scrape it off and ultimately decided to cut the table in half to fit it on my sawmill and just cut the top 1/4 inch off completely.

I’m now using polyurethane on it. I dont know what happened. I mixed it more than the recommended amount of time using a timer on my phone. I was in a heated shop, I scraped the edges when mixing, poured it into a new container, everything.

I did it in 3 layers and every layer was bad. Not only did I fail to deliver the table but I’m out over 300 dollars. It seems like a good product if it hardens properly. If it doesnt then there is no fixing it and you might as well start over.

I dont think I can accept that risk on my next project. It isnt worth it.

I contacted the “help desk” a few times before starting and they were great. Answered all my questions so that I could begin with some level of confidence. The product worked as advertised. I had no trouble with the mixing.

I did find that a heat gun or propane torch works a lot better at getting out bubbles that does a hair blow dryer. The finished product was great. I would recommend TotalBoat TableTop to anyone.

The clear, although not clear, is still quite useable. I’d recommend not more than 8 minutes in fresh IPA (which prevents spalling of the surface and delamination). Fresh IPA for this and the White is essential.

Printing 15mm wargaming miniatures to mould and cast in pewter. I doubt the resin print could be better. If only the casting pewter could bring out all the detail.

Bought this as it had validated print accuracy data. Excellent results when accuracy is important.

IšverstiShow in original languageThis stuff is not for slow pour coating a table or something like that. I mix only small amounts, less than 2 ounces total, for multiple very small silicone putty molds.

Have your molds out and ready. add equal parts A and B ( measure each component in separate cups so they won’t react until mixed) Quickly combine in a separate cup and mix for 20 seconds and pour immediately.

It will start setting up in less than a minute and becomes unpourable if you are not prepared. Starts off clear and turns white as it cures. I find that if I take the item out of the mold too soon, a thin piece is a little flexible.

It will harden and become more rigid as it continues to cure.

IšverstiShow in original languageThis casting resin is awesome for those of us with short attention spans. Be sure to have your forms and other tools ready before you mix. Mix it slowly but don’t spend more than 30 seconds mixing.

Once it starts to heat up you have precious seconds left to get it into a form. The finished product is glossy and bright white. I have added a few different dyes to it and it takes them well also. You just have to be careful to mix it quickly without getting bubbles in the resin.

IšverstiShow in original languageI purchased one of these kits direct from the manufacturer, and was very pleased with the overall results. there are a few minor issues that resulted in me giving it four stars instead of five, though.

The number of measuring cups and stir sticks are inadequate for the amount of resin. I was using an extra set of cups from the silicone molding kit, and even with cleaning and wiping the cups between uses, both the resin and catalist residues built up until the measuring markings were illegible.

The stir sticks suffer a worse fate as the cured epoxy sets up on them. Unless you scrape the stir stick in between batches, you’ll need to make sure to buy an extra bag of popsicle sticks in the crafting isle.

The epoxy itself is quite hard when casting larger items, but small items (<1 cubic inch, or about 5ml) have a great deal of flex even when given twice the demolding time to cure. This wasn't a huge problem for me, but could be an issue for small, intricate parts.

After an hour or so, the smaller parts of my castings were as hard as the larger ones. Finally, the catalyst is extremely runny in the 1:1 ratio premix. I was extremely careful when measuring, but no matter how I maneuvered the spout on the bottle, I always got some oversplash.

You definitely need to wear PPE class D gloves and safety goggles. A Class C apron or coverall is also necessary if this is being used in a classroom setting where old working clothes aren’t permitted.

best resin about ABS

Performant

TranslateShow in original languagepas encore testé, je fini celui vendu avec l imprimante que je trouve trop cassant pour faire du 1:87 alors c’est pour cela que je vais essayer cette résine plus flexible.

TranslateShow in original languagePour l’instant pas encore utilisé.! mais l’emballage est parfait .

TranslateShow in original languagePetite difficulté pour trouver les bons paramètres

TranslateShow in original languageDescriptif de la couleur pas très clair