This GE AED10AV is similar to their AEL10AV and AEM10AV units. The blower motor distinguishes this one, from them — the CFM parameter reflects that. It (therefore?) has the ability to remove just a bit more water from the air than those other two models, while retaining almost every other performance spec.
Sometimes, slower is better, for airflow. This unit is sold as their most quiet model; guesswork suggests that the different blower (fan) motor used is responsible for the lowered noise. This is the only 10,000 BTU, connected window A/C on the market that I’m aware of, and is why I chose it over other offerings (I needed the 10k cooling capacity, and I wanted WiFi connectivity).
This unit DOES NOT HAVE A TIMER. The word ‘timer’ does not appear on the GE shipping carton (which seems accurate in all its claims, about what’s inside the box). The handheld IR remote (optical; cannot be used around corners without a mirror) has three unlabeled buttons.
I have not tried to use the remote; I like the smartphone app (but I still need a timer, so I will fiddle with those three unlabeled buttons, at some point). The WiFi app does allow a manual shut-down of the entire machine (all motors off; all noises silenced).
As well as a manual startup. However, it does not allow a scheduled shutdown, nor a scheduled startup — a human has to command those events (via smartphone, wifi and the running app, in real time — no programmable delays at all).
It is a mistake to conflate the scheduling function for a timer. The scheduler only manipulates the SET POINT of the digital thermostat of the air conditioner. The user interface for the scheduler is quite similar to setting the alarm in the primary ‘clock’ application of Android — it allows you to set a time of day, a set-point temperature, and to toggle on, or off, any or all days of the week for this event.
The airflow is directed into the room by vents that tilt and pan (pitch and yaw). The styrofoam firewall is not fully opaque — and calls attention to itself. Glows from behind when sunlit. The shipping carton lifts off — it’s bottomless.
Secured with nylon pallet straps (more or less). Easily handled by grabbing ahold of these straps — makes lifting the unit much easier. The lift-off carton is about 24 1/4 x 23 x 17 — and there’s a styrofoam pallet the unit rests on, molded to conform to the bottom of the unit.
So that 17 parameter may be more (one vendor does list these dimensions, iirc). The accordion panels expand elastically and have good, hard molded dovetails to join with the pieces they need to, to pull on the accordion folds (which want to collapse) from both edges.
Very much like an old school slide rule — that’s the interface between the accordionized panels and the other bits. The molding is good and has clean hard edges, on the wing frames holding the panels.
These two frames slide in steel rails affixed to the main chassis (one of which, the bottom rail, is permanent). The top rail is installed by the consumer, using 4 screws (a high quality philips screwdriver is needed; a stripped one will just make a mess of things — buy a new screwdriver just for this).
The screw holes for the top rail are pre-drilled; they only allow one orientation (they are not quite symmetrically spaced from either end). And so, the top rail cannot be mistakenly installed backwards.
The carton says 115 VAC 7. 5 Amperes and somewhere there is a notice about a 15 amp circuit breaker (or the equivalent in a slow-blow fuse). There are black and white drawings on the shipping carton, which you can use to identify what receptacle you have — even if it’s the wrong one for this air conditioner (so you will know why it is wrong).
This means you can take a photograph of your electrical receptacle near the window at home, bring it to the store, and match up with the drawings on the box. It’s got ’em all. Even the ones you cannot and must not use! The plug is the usual 3-prong NEMA 5-15 plug, with the parallel blades.
Has the dongle to protect against electrical faults (the plug end of the power cord is an oversized circuit breaker dongle). The power cord runs from the left front of the chassis, on the same side as the digital front panel, and below the grille covering the evaporator coil.
With the duplex outlet ground (third prong) below the other two, the cord runs above the outlet (and so leaves the bottom 115 VAC NEMA 5-15 duplex receptacle available for — use, though this use is forbidden by the literature).
The test and reset buttons on the dongle are to the left, in this configuration. So this will work with a duplex outlet mounted on the base- board, even if it’s not mounted sideways — they thought this one out, carefully.
It’s a right-angle plug (hugs the wall). My unit arrived seemingly DOA — I had to press the reset button, to get the machine to respond at all. That was unexpected. It’s working fine, ever since. No harm no foul.
The set point has to be set much lower than logic would otherwise suggest. There is no remote sensor, so all readings are taken at the unit itself. That apparently skews the readings. The thermostat bottoms out at a set point of 64 degrees, which may cause the unit to cycle (temporarily shutoff the compressor) a bit sooner than expected, since the false readings tell the machine it’s already cold enough in the room, when it really is not.
WiFi – there’s a sticker with a password on the right side of the unit, which gives a GE_MODULE styled network name (ESSID/BSSID) to identify in your smartphone’s WiFi connection dialog. You issue the password to the air conditioner’s WiFi from within the App (which you have previously installed, including establishing login and password credentials with the G.
E. host computer — the mothership — somewhere out there on the Internet). It’s interesting. You have to tell your phone to talk to the air conditioner’s wireless router, instead of your own home wireless router (the one linking to the Internet).
You have to do that, because the smartphone is playing the role of a remote front panel for the air coditioner. Now, the air conditioner wants access to the Internet, so you have to give it your (regular) wireless router’s WPA2 (or whatever) password, as well as the network name.
So, the air conditioner plays both roles: it acts lke a client (when it talks to your house’s wireless router) and it acts like a server (when your smartphone talks to it). It only wants you to use it’s newly-introduced, secondary wireless network, during initial setup.
Once the system is fully functional, it does whatever it needs to do, by speaking through your home’s wireless router. In particular, you don’t have to worry about what router your smartphone is talking to — it will still be talking to your regular home wireless router — not the air conditioner — except during initial setup.
In this way, the system is robust, and is location-agnostic — the air conditioner does not have to be within wireless range of the smartphone — only your home’s wireless router (so you must be sure your air conditioner’s WiFi radio ‘hears’ your wireless router).
Summary: peeved about the timer. I knew it was not going to go well (I told my dealer ‘it doesn’t have a timer’ when I ordered the AED10AV). It’s an air conditioner. It seems to cool 10,000 BTU’s worth.
Seems quiet. Has the gee whiz toy factor covered. Scheduling set-point changes might prove useful. Price seems appropriate to quality of build (acceptable in most regards, and it’s probably very competitive in todays’ market, for build-quality).
I’m definitely keeping it; wifi in a 10k unit is hard to come by!.