20 Best Wood Repair Epoxy (2022 Updated)

I purchased this product because, when compared to other so-called “wood restorers”, (A) the two parts are easier to mix together; (B) it’s FAR easier to use a small spatula to apply the mixed product; and (C) it definitely has a higher “tackiness” or “stickiness” than others I’ve used.

In other words, there’s less waste. But, be advised: I live in the west, where summers are dry and hot. Beware of using P. C. Woody in the heat of a summer’s day, because it will harden in a fourth of the time the product information says it will! Mix ONLY the amount you can apply.

and cut that by a fourth if you use it in hot summer sun. That “quick-hardening” in sunlight is the reason I gave it 4 stars instead of 5.

As someone who is pretty handy and always working on home projects I discovered this product several years ago and have used it quite often for wood repair. Upside – once dry it is a hard and permanent wood repair patch.

Far stronger than any other wood repair product I have tried. Downside – it’s pricy for the amount you get compared to products like Bondo, fix-all, wood putty, etc. so if you have a large repair good luck.

It needs to dry and cure fully for about 24 hours ( depending upon temperature) before sanding. If you sand too soon you’ll have a mess. Trying to stain it to match surrounding wood is difficult at best.

I almost always use it where it’s going to be painted.

A bit hard to handle when still wet, but really strong and it blends with my pine logs really well. I also tried a competing product but it dried with an odd reddish color that was ok for painting afterward but no good for staining.

This product took stain just like the new pine replacement log I installed. But didn’t quite stain as darkly as the old logs I stripped (the ones that actually needed repairing). Nonetheless it’s still a fairly good match and blends in well when all said and done.

Excellent product!.

I give it a 4. 5 and recomend for selective applications. Tints well with small specks of artist oil paints. Smoothable prior to curing when lightly rubbed with water or alcohol applied to fingers after achieving desired fill.

Sanding quality is great. Cures fully without shrinkage to a dullish non glossy texture; another likeable feature which also makes this good for select types of pottery repair. Clear coats can appear like glaze.

Inner core was rock hard. Tried to blend it together best I could. I should have thrown it away. Doubt it will fix the six screw holes I was repairing.

I had to fill the dead lock hole in our door jamb and re-drill a new hole. This product worked great. A 3/4″ spade drill bit made a smooth hole in the wood putty epoxy with no crumbling. I recommend this product for heavier duty wood filling needs.

The one ounce tube was sufficient to fill a 3/4″ x 1″ hole, door latch cutout area and two screw holes with a small amount of product left over.

This works great It makes a very strong replacement for any wood fixes a I find it to be in most cases stronger than the wood I am replacing. I like that it’s not messy and very easy to use. You do have to knead it to the point at which is is one uniform color or you will be disappointed.

A few notes: if using your bare hands, it does tend to want to stick to your fingers when filling holes. Moistening your fingers slightly will solve this. It does have a very unique smell (to me kind of a cross between tuna and a skunk), but not much worse than other epoxys I’ve used.

and finally, getting it out of the container is a pain. Sometimes this takes longer than the actual repair job. I just tap it upside down on my desk a few times, and eventually it will give. If anyone else has tips for removing it, I’d love to hear them Overall a great product.

Very short working time and the putty was very course. All I needed to do was fill some countersinks in plywood but this putty was difficult to work with. I should have just used ordinary wood putty.

Bought this in one of Rona’s as i thought it’s a epoxy for wood fixes, however the product never gets sturdy enough. It curres within a minute (which happens when you’re mixing two components) and it gets hard to apply.

After that it says – in 60 mins it will be as sturdy as wood, but it looks like 48 hours after application product’s quality is closer to something in between dry dough and kids playdough. It’s sticky crumbling substance, so can be damaged by a fingernail but it’s really hard to clean out.

For my money i got spoiled wooden surfaces which i need to clean/drill out and start over again with a normal product.

It’s funny, the cabinetry “expert” told me there was nothing I could do to fix the ripped-out hinges on the cabinet door in my kitchen. Apparently he was not familiar with this product! Pretty incredible stuff, but Home Depot needs to start stocking a higher quantity in their stores.

It was a real pain to track down the last packet in all of Victoria.

Just cut the amount required with a sharp knife. With clean fingers work until it becomes a light brown warm consistency, apply to the area preferably with a scalpel knife. Allow to dry 30 min, job done.

Easy to mix and apply, hardens nicely. Easy to sand and stain, though of course it won’t be an exact match to wood but makes a good patch for some larger cracks in my deck. Time will tell if it’s better than last wood filler I used which tended to shrink and crack over the winter.

We’ll see how this one fares outside over the course of a year but so far so good.

I used this to repair/rebuild part of a chest-of-drawers leg and bottom of a side panel that had suffered dog urine damage. After removing the damaged wood, I used some PC Products Wood Petrifier to seal the wood.

Then I used PC Woody Wood Repair Epoxy Paste according to the included instructions. When cured, I sanded the new “wood” to shape, then applied staining and clear sealer. My husband was going to throw this nice piece of furniture away, but now he is impressed with the repair.

Bonus: no strong odors or fumes during or after use.

Used this to repair a beam on my 170 year old house. Couldn’t really get in to replace which I would have done normally. Read so much info on this and found out it has structural integrity. Drilled holes in beam and injected then painted it on it soak in remaking wood into a solid piece again.

#sweepstakes.

I have been using this product for 30 years. I have a window restoration business and this product is used everyday with fantastic results. the liquid wood hardens rotted wood and is a primer for abatrons wood-epox.

After removing rotted wood I brushed the Liquidwood on every part of solid wood. This made good splintered wood solid. This is the first part of repair before applying Woodepox.

Excellent choice for wood repair. It is intermediate in viscosity, so depending on your needs you may want a product that is more like clay or more liquid. Sculpt Wood has three products that cover the range.

PC Woody is right in the middle. It has a consistency like peanut butter. Works great and is more economical than some others, although not cheap. If you don’t need the structural stability provided by epoxy, there are many inexpensive wood fillers that achieve a good cosmetic result.

I bought some of this last year, but didn’t get around to using it till this spring. The product was better than I expected. After fixing a portion of rotted out log, the fixed part was like knocking on cement.

It created a stronger support than I’d anticipated. So pleased, that I just purchased more for other badly decomposed areas.

My husband loves this stuff. He uses it on all our houses when there is wood damage due to carpenter bees or cracks in wood for any reason.

Good product. I use it for work on small wood craft products that occasionally need some patching or additional build up. So far,so good. For what my needs at this time I got the smaller container combo.

Based on the outcomes and positive results using it I would recommend Sculpt Wood.

I used your product Rotfix and also SculpWood to repair dry rot in a deck door. After removing as much of the dry rot as I could I applied the Rotfix. It hardened and stabilized the remaining wood very well.

I used the SculpWood to fill the resulting void. Unfortunately, I ended up a little shy in one place and had to build it up. I tried more SculpWood but found it did not adhere to itself as well as I would have liked.

Had to fuss with it a bit. In the end I would caution others to be sure to overfill the material so they don’t have to fill in a little to get the patch level. Other than that the two materials did a great job for me.

I would certainly recommend them and add that though it was expensive it was well worth it.

It’s tricky to figure out how much to mix, so my first time, I mixed way too much; I poured the leftover mix into some kitty litter for disposal. WOW When it had solidified in the litter, it seemed stronger than wood.

I think this will fix my rotted spots on my porch extremely well. Do use this before applying SculpWood – another terrific companion product. SculpWood is waterproof and sculpts and sands like a dream.

The repairs I made to my porch posts are INVISIBLE, thanks to these products. I even rebuilt the bottom of a baluster with it.

I use this around my 1929 house to tighten up grains to stop or prevent rot. I add to end grain on ground contact boards. Soaks in quickly and travels a good distance along the grain. Use with rot fix putty or West systems for repairs.

I had a couple of wood items that needed minor repair, and remembered that a friend had used this product before to sculpt a missing ear for an antique carousel horse she owned. She recommended it highly, so I purchased some and tried it.

It seems to work well, adhering to the wood and bonding to it. I have not yet tried sanding or painting it, but don’t expect any problems. Though my use of it is limited, it seems to be superior to wood filler and allows you to actually recreate missing pieces of wood, if you have the ability to do so.

I only use West Systems 105 for my boat refits. Mixed with the correct hardner, I use it for fiberglassing and thickened with 406 for bonding and filets. Mixing it with kitty hair (chopped fiberglass) creates a glass to glass bond like no other.

Also 407 additive creates a perfect fairing compound.

West Systems is a boat builders/repair epoxy that has excellent performance. It has also been approved for certain aircraft applications. I use it for a number of jobs but mostly for building model airplanes when I need a good epoxy that’s easy to use and not thick like the hobby epoxies.

It wets out fiberglass very well and can be used to laminate wood to other materials like foam. Its low viscosity allows it to penetrate into wood pores much better than most other wood glues and provides a high bonding strength.

This is my second purchase of this product as I ran out. You can also call the Gougeon Brothers for any questions and assistance. Good stuff.

This is the first time I used West System epoxy. I’m very happy with the product. I recommend getting the epoxy pumps it make it so much easier to prepare additional epoxy mixes in the middle of a job.

I used the epoxy to repair a soft spot on my deck hatch. It’s in an area that does not require finishing. So I don’t have much experience applying West System epoxy and finishing with gel coat.

While I have been boating for awhile, I am not using this product on a boat. In combination with Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy, I am using this to repair rotted wooden window sills and frames. It’s perfect.

I mix the 2 parts with each about the size of a golf ball. It starts out kind of stiff and during kneading, becomes very soft and malleable. Unlike other 2 part systems, this product is very easy to sand.

Follow the instructions! It is far superior when using an adhesion coat of Penetrating Epoxy.

I used this wood putty to fill some cracks, checks, knots, and screw holes in the oak superstructure of a lobster boat. I used it over the penetrating epoxy according to the instructions on the product and had good results with adhesion.

It’s easily sanded with a random orbital sander so don’t be scared if it goes on a little proud of what you are filling. My only caution is that despite its 20 minute working time, towards the 10 minute mark it will become exponentially more difficult to work with so do yourself a favor and mix very small batches.

Also I’d recommend a pretty stiff metal putty knife as it hits this harder-to-work-with consistency. Overall, easy to use and does exactly what it says it will. Wish the color were a bit darker, though.

Used it to fill a small void in an oar blade which will be covered in Dynel. Like other reviewers, I was dubious about the crumbly texture of the Resin. It mixed up fine though. Instructions indicated “by hand”, which I came to understand was meant literally.

Via gloved fingers and palms kneading the two equal parts together was child’s play. The mix molded easily and equally easy to apply over the epoxy penetrated wood. Will be curious to ascertain its shelf life.

I’ve been using this product for years. I’ve used it to join mouldings together, repaired damaged 90 year old base boards. I fixed cabinets, filled holes, repaired hardwood floors and fixed wood rot on fascia boards.

I’ve never been let down. I always keep a spare tube in my tool box.

A VERY good product, extremely strong. I had to repair an antique rocking chair and the arm and edge of the seat broke off and it was literally felt stronger than the original. Even with areas where there was oak missing, it filled in the gap and was strong.

This glue/epoxee is exactly what I needed to do the job. It strongly and tightly bonds together even the heaviest wood, and almost immediately! It is sure to last a lifetime! I definitely recommend this product, regardless of how heavy or light the project is!.

I hope this is the world’s worst epoxy, anything else would be unimaginable. I’ve used 2-part 5 minute expoys since about 1974 or 75, starting w/ places that have hot fuel exposure, and engine vibration on things that fly, where the hold is critical.

Never had a problem. I’ve used a couple of different brands, the original Devcon w/b preferred, but the Ace brand is also extremely good, sets as expected, hold is strong on a variety of materials. Some time ago I tried Gorilla glue and had trouble, it didn’t set after hours on a plastic air intake and was almost sucked into the engine.

I called tech support and was told I was using it wrong, and it didn’t work on certain plastics. Since I mix epoxies on a plastic lid and often peel it off afterwords, I sorta know intuitively which plastics and the intake I didn’t think was but I went with their advice: I’d used it wrong.

Then after peeling what was left of the Gorilla stuff off – and it was still soft over 24 hrs later, I mixed up Ace’s 5-minute epoxy and in no time it was hard adhered and I’d sealed the intake, that was a year or so ago, it’s still there; under the hood of a car to be clear.

So maybe I HADN’T USED IT WRONG < oops, inadvertant caps lock, ha! Apropo, I'm leaving it. Not an isolated incident. Everything I used this product on has had problems, first I'm told mine's expired (2014 product code), okay I got a new pack - same problems (the Ace brand I just used today, Copywrite 2005, worked perfectly) I'm told I'm mixing it wrong, good deal, and good thing I didn't mix it wrong 45 years ago on the airplanes! And everything else since; I've been mixing and using all kinds of two part types of glue during those 45 years without a problem, so what's special about this? Apparently you "have to" mix it in the little tray on the package AND you mustn't let it spread out when you mix.

Okay then, I tried those precautions. Except neither of those remedies worked. 3 hrs later, still not set.

just fine, and as expected, once you get a normal mixture down. However, the plunger is much more flexible than other manufacturer’s product, so it is far too easy to end up with a batch that can take overnight to harden.

I’m talking real rubbery and gooey. Moreover, do not store with the plunger side down, unlike other manufacturer’s product the epoxy does leak slowy out of this end. It is for this fact that I rated this product so low.

Also the oneway tab on the cap needs to be more prominent.

I would give this zero stars if I could. This claims to bond a variety of materials, with the fine print being not as effective on some plastics. I bought it to use on a decor craft project, only reading this detail after I finished so when it came apart I chalked it up to that because I followed the directions closely.

Next I used it to bond metal to glass for another decor project and had a similar result. Note, these are not “high traffic” items, mainly just sitting there so I can’t imagine it being useful for any type of repair on an item that gets regular use.

Simply worthless, actually worse than that because I have wasted my time. To top it all off, it was messy and a hassle to apply alongside having terrible fumes. For nothing!.

This product along with the paint color selection epoxy is amazing. Follow the directions, make small batches if you have time constraints. We used it on worm holes in pine we milled, plained and cut to specific widths for a floor in our guest bedroom.

We pegged and doweled the flooring and used an Ebony stain diluted 3 parts water to 1 part stain. It is beautiful. The epoxy mix is much harder than the pine so use caution when scraping or sanding. We found sliding a razor backwards worked best then sand.

Pushing the razor forward would gouge the pine too easily. I’ll be getting more of the colors for other projects. I also used it on record cabinets (stackable boxes) I made for my husbands 1,000 album record collection.

I have been using West Systems 105 Epoxy and their hardeners and fillers for over 50 yrs for repairs on my sailboats. Their 5 to 1 dispensers are a must [I was a Research Chemist where batch preparation and precise measurements were key to performance].

I know there are other epoxies available – why would I change?.